In reply to alx:
Yeah, I was just repeating the reasoning for the change of format being an olympic requirement for equal time as it seems that from the thread most people seem to have missed this. I didnt decide on the 4 mins, and would prefer 5 minutes slots as think this would be better. Sure they will end up with that.
There is a lot of blame on tv slot, i don't really believe this is anything to do with it. there is enough time wastage at the olympics in other sports and surely going through the history of the comps could probably tell the the 4+ system generally does not relate to considerably longer time.
The olympics likes to adhere to the equality and fairness concept so rigid equal time plays to that.
i do think the system of deciding the winner does need to change though. Jongwon Chon was easily the more consistent of the climbers at CWIF across the final problems. but that topic is probably for another day!