UKC

Niall Grimes writes about Crispin Waddy's recent ascent of Master's Edge E7 6c at Millstone and how watching friends on the route brought back memories of his own experience on the intimidating arête in the '90s...

'And so back at Millstone, where Pat's shadow made me think of how my own shadow had passed along these climbs and in a content relaxation, I allowed myself to indulge in the memories of the climbs and my climbing of them.'

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In reply to UKC Articles:

Excellent.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Masterful. It’s always great to read Niall. More, more, more…

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great writing as ever from Grimer, especially liked the line 'the past is a good place to look at, but not a good place to stay in for too long'.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Captivating! Nice one Grimer.

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Brilliant! More of this sort of thing please.

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So good ….give this man a pay rise UKC!

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Had goosebumps reading that.

Bangin'!

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The master himself. Writing that makes you want to pick up a pen. Thanks Niall.

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The best thing I've read on here for a while, more from Niall please!

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Cracking stuff! Thank you. Look forward to your book.

In reply to UKC Articles:

That's great, thanks Grimer.

Would you be able to send me your EOTA poem again please? 

Simon N.

In reply to julesmckim:

Book? What is this?

In reply to julesmckim:

Not sure there are many cracks on the routes described but it’s arête edge of the seat read from the master himself.

In reply to UKC Articles:

So emotive, please post more.
Funny you talk about looking up to your peers. I remember standing next to you just before you blasted up Flash with Dave Pickford at Pembroke, feeling completely awe struck. I can still picture you throwing nuts in the twin cracks like darts, sprinting up the steep start. Funny how something that’s probably forgettable for one person can make a lasting impression on someone else, especially since I can’t remember what happened yesterday.

In reply to UKC Articles: Hi thanks all glad yous enjoyed  feels like I hadn’t done any writing in forever was nice to do again  

Dave I remember Flash. But funny thing is I remember feeling I wasn’t climbing very well that weekend and was feeling intimidated and on that route I felt I put in far too many wires

funny, impressions  

In reply to Dave Foster:

In a weird coincidence (relating to this article), you’ve just reminded me of something. When I led Flash Crispin seconded up wearing my size 11 skate shoes. Maybe he’d done it a few times and was looking to ‘challenge’ himself.

It’s a great effort Crispin doing Masters when you consider that his hardest sport grade is 7b or maybe 7b+? And Masters sort of feels like 7b+.

In reply to Niall Grimes:

Watching you place wires in pairs influenced the way I trad climbed, I bought two ropes after that. And you didn’t look like you were intimidated, there was no hesitation!
Tom, if I’d seen Crispin seconding it in trainers I’d have just given up climbing.

In reply to Tom Briggs:

Crispin's current sport grade might be 7b/7b+ but he has climbed 8a before according to his UKC logbook. Nevertheless your point stands. Crispin is one of those people who seem to be able to climb at their limit a long way above gear... probably pulling on choss too... as the rain begins to fall!

In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely writing Naill, really enjoyed that, thanks so much. 

In reply to UKC Articles:

I think Crispin first climbed E7 in 1987. 

Amazing to be still climbing at such  level - or - remarkably little progress for 37 years of effort.

In reply to simes303:

I'm sure I've heard Niall talking (on Jam Crack podcast probably) of bringing together pieces of his writing into a book. I hope I'm right!