Niall Grimes writes about Crispin Waddy's recent ascent of Master's Edge E7 6c at Millstone and how watching friends on the route brought back memories of his own experience on the intimidating arête in the '90s...
'And so back at Millstone, where Pat's shadow made me think of how my own shadow had passed along these climbs and in a content relaxation, I allowed myself to indulge in the memories of the climbs and my climbing of them.'
So emotive, please post more. Funny you talk about looking up to your peers. I remember standing next to you just before you blasted up Flash with Dave Pickford at Pembroke, feeling completely awe struck. I can still picture you throwing nuts in the twin cracks like darts, sprinting up the steep start. Funny how something that’s probably forgettable for one person can make a lasting impression on someone else, especially since I can’t remember what happened yesterday.
In reply to UKC Articles: Hi thanks all glad yous enjoyed feels like I hadn’t done any writing in forever was nice to do again
Dave I remember Flash. But funny thing is I remember feeling I wasn’t climbing very well that weekend and was feeling intimidated and on that route I felt I put in far too many wires
In a weird coincidence (relating to this article), you’ve just reminded me of something. When I led Flash Crispin seconded up wearing my size 11 skate shoes. Maybe he’d done it a few times and was looking to ‘challenge’ himself.
It’s a great effort Crispin doing Masters when you consider that his hardest sport grade is 7b or maybe 7b+? And Masters sort of feels like 7b+.
Watching you place wires in pairs influenced the way I trad climbed, I bought two ropes after that. And you didn’t look like you were intimidated, there was no hesitation! Tom, if I’d seen Crispin seconding it in trainers I’d have just given up climbing.
Crispin's current sport grade might be 7b/7b+ but he has climbed 8a before according to his UKC logbook. Nevertheless your point stands. Crispin is one of those people who seem to be able to climb at their limit a long way above gear... probably pulling on choss too... as the rain begins to fall!
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