UKC

/ DIGITAL FEATURE: The Finest Crags in the UK & Ireland: Wimberry

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UKC Articles - on 21 Aug 2017
Consolation Prize E5 6a Wimberry, 4 kbOccupying a menacing position high above the Chew Valley's reservoir, is a gritstone monster of truly biblical proportions. By far the grandest crag in the Chew Valley, yet receiving rather less attention that it perhaps deserves.

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danm on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

Really enjoyed that. The photo of Dave Pegg must be one of the best images in climbing history?

It's a pity that there is no mention of Nige's impressive repeat of MaDMAn, along with his addition of the coveted direct finish. To quote Over The Moors " the direct finish has been top-roped but going by the look of the first ascensionist's face your seratonin has been all but spent by the time you reach the sloping shelf." I'll blow Nige's trumpet because he certainly won't do it himself!

DannyC on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to danm:

Couldn't agree more about that photo. A complete classic.
steveriley - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

Another great feature - page 4: the straightforward joy of Pinball Wizard, plus the horror of the top-out on Blasphemy ;-)
Michael Simpson on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

Aye great stuff.

It'd be nice to know the route on the cover and on page 3
Yanis Nayu - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

Funny the mention about the sharp crystals causing numbness - I pinged a nerve in the back of my hand climbing Route 1 and had numbness for about a month!
Sean Kelly - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

I climbed here mostly in the 70's so most of the routes described didn't exist. I certainly remember Blue Lights as it was graded VS at the time and sorted the men from the boys so to speak. Funnily no mention of midges, which can be really ferocious on a warm summer evening, which is usually the best time to climb here. I would also recommend the 'Railway' in Greenfield. Cracking photos as always Mike.
1
Jon Read - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to danm:
Hadn't heard it was repeated, let alone a direct added. Pick that trumpet back up and let's hear it, please!

danm on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Jon Read:

There was a mini-interview on here at the time for those interested: https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/68872/madman_2nd_ascent_for_nige_kershaw
craig h - on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Michael Simpson:
The cover is Consolation Prize - E5 6a

I'd say page 3 is Wristcutter's Lullaby E6 6c / Neptune's Tool E6 6c? Same start, but don't have a guide book to hand.

A great article, has almost made me dust the rock boots off
Post edited at 22:22
Wft on 24 Aug 2017
In reply to Jon Read:

He had a great season that year - Dynamics of Change, MaDMAN direct and Meshugah. He rode a pale horse and it's name was Nige
Tom V - on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to danm:

Walked up with Simon Jones and Dave Pegg a couple of weeks before the actual FA. Simon had hinted that there might be some significant photos for me in the offing.
By late afternoon, having watched Dave working on that horrible blunt arete, I was actually praying that he would save it for another day. Which he did.
mark20 - on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to Michael Simpson:

Cover photo is Consolation Prize and I think p3 is Wimberry Overhang. Terrfying crag
Simon Caldwell - on 25 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC Articles:

> Occupying a menacing position high above the Chew Valley's reservoir, is a gritstone monster of truly biblical proportions. By far the grandest crag in the Chew Valley, yet receiving rather less attention that it perhaps deserves.

Good build up, but the article seems to be about Wimberry rather than Dovestones Quarry...

1
Tom V - on 28 Aug 2017
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

It was Eric Byne who said that Dovestones Main made the Three Cliffs of Llanberis seem like "small beer".
Michael Simpson on 30 Aug 2017
In reply to craig h:

Thanks Craig

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