UKC

Robbie Phillips gives us some tips and tricks on how to make sure our climbing doesn't disturb the birds that we share the rock with, as well as some cautionary tales from his own climbing career.

Every crag we climb at is home to birds - regardless of whether you're bolt clipping on the limestone, dangling off a wild Scottish sea cliff, or between burns on your mossy gritstone boulder project.

But birds in the UK are in real crisis, with their population facing massive declines to the tune of 73 million birds lost over the last 50 years. As climbers we enter into their habitats, we climb on their homes, so it's only right we should act responsibly and do everything in our power to prevent disturbing or causing them harm.

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Great piece Robbie! 

Really good article Robbie, nice one!

It surprises me that the Barra isles remain unrestricted. With prime climbing season coinciding with prime nesting season I can't see this lasting much longer. Climbing here is not going to get any less popular. The right/wrong person will eventually kick up enough stink about it.

What is the best course of action, get it while you still can, or avoid for obvious reasons?

I ran this article past an RSPB coastal habitats expert with plenty experience of human interference, she reckoned it was spot on.  Re Pabbay/Mingulay, it is a bit strange, but NTS will have consulted with the BTO on this and will presumably take action if there is a problem - so the best course of action is to follow Robbies advice.

I've only climbed on Pabbay (in late June) but I was surprised how little overlap there was between prime climbing terrain and nesting ledges. Looking back at my photos (we took kayaks so had a good look from the sea too) there's almost no guano at all on the main crags. I don't think that's because the birds have been scared off, there simply aren't enough suitable ledges; very different to Hoy or Cilan for example. So I don't think there's much rationale for a seasonal climbing ban here, although climbers exploring new areas should always be cautious. Given current population trends the bonxie colony on the east end is perhaps the only concern but there's no climbing in that area.

There probably is a conversation to be had about the number of climbers camping and toileting though. The NTS warden was on the island at the same time, so they have an eye on things, numbers felt ok but if they doubled, say, I think you might need a rethink.

Mingulay is obviously much bigger and complex. As I say, I haven't climbed on there but I have been on a birdwatching boat trip right round the island, through the stacks, arch etc. My impression was the main seabird areas & are not climbed on, mostly because the ledgey terrain (e.g. Biulacraig) that is good for nests is not so good for climbing, while  the stacks etc are pretty inaccessible even to climbers. So while there's perhaps some scope for formalising the separation of these zones, with the tiny numbers of people doing exploratory new routes and the way the Scottish access code works, the current approach as outlined by Robbie's excellent article would seem sufficient at least for now.

You clearly haven't climbed on or visited either Pabbay or Mingulay. They have what I believe is some of the best trad climbing  in the UK, and the majority of the popular crags are remarkably bird free. Many are just too steep and ledge free for birds to make much of an impression.

I've been climbing out there over a dozen times since the late nineties. Don't recall encountering seabirds on many of the best crags. Mingulay has a much bigger seabird population than Pabbay, but the main crags are remarkably bird free. Next you'll be calling for a bird ban on all of Gogarth.

Perhaps you should get out more, rather than fulminate about a perceived problem that doesn't exist...

Your assumption is wrong. Like it or not the tide of restrictions is advancing, look at Lundy for example. It is only by gift of the islands' remote nature that climbers have had free reign for so long.

My post may sound pessimistic but it is best to anticipate and prepare for what is likely to occur.

This is a forum, a talking shop, where things like this should be discussed. The uncomfortable truth is that climbers are supportive of wildlife and environmental issues when it suits. We will observe restrictions in Pembroke where we are being watched but race to the islands in the spring where we can't be seen.

Human behaviour, if we can get away with it, we will.

Without a doubt it is best to follow the advice. However, advice is just that. There are reasons we have restrictions, people are less likely to heed advice if it stands in the way of their desires.

Were these islands in the Bristol Channel or off the Pembrokeshire coast, things would be very different.

We are burying our heads in the sand if we think restrictions are not on the horizon.

I think you're mistaken about the islands not being watched. The National Trust literally has a ranger living on Mingulay to monitor the birds during peak season. He was entirely friendly but he made very sure that we disinfected our feet (to avoid spreading bird flu to the island) and checked on our climbing plans. The powers that be are very much aware of the climbing that's going on and if they were concerned about it, they would already be pushing for restrictions.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10153310476792420&type=3&...

if anyone wants to see what Gary Latter’s idea of bird free looks like…close up photos of hatching and unattended chicks, climbing through nests, what else could you want from a delightful trip to one of Scotland’s most important bird colonies..

And that is my point Luke. The presence of the warden is an increase in scrutiny and these things only go one way.

I am not arguing for or against restrictions. I am raising that the threat of these is on the horizon and we should prepare ourselves.

Almost every group I have spoken with about these islands has raised unprompted that such levels of freedom of access to the cliffs would not be tolerated elsewhere. I suspect we are all hoping that if we remain silent, nothing will change. Very Ostrich like.

So, avoid or fill your boots while you can, your decision.

Your point previously was that nobody was watching yet, and that was the only reason we were "getting away with it". Now I've pointed out that they are in fact very much aware of the climbing activity, and continuing to actively permit it, you've pivoted to saying that this also supports your point.

You mis understand. My point is that restrictions will only grow. The presence of the warden is a relatively new thing, as is the consulting on climbing venues. This did not used to happen, you don't need to be as cynical as me to see where it is leading.

No matter how important we climbers think we are, we will never trump the bird lobby.

As before, your game, your rules. You can choose to avoid or to make hay while he sun shines but the writing is on the wall, it could be in paint, chalk or guano but it is there.

I'm really struggling to understand your main point. Climbers support of bans is generally excellent, as, like Robbie, the vast majority respect nature. The exceptions are rare and most are down to misunderstanding. The BMC and other climbing organisations only question bans when no nesting disturbance risk is pretty obvious. I'd argue information and cooperation around nesting is as good as it has ever been and doesn't look to be changing any time soon.

My point is enjoy it while you can, it won't last for ever. Word has got out about the islands, popularity is increasing and with this scrutiny.

My question is one of strategy, should we all rush there now to make the most of what we have, likely bringing forward any future restrictions.

Or should we quietly shy away in the hope that this will delay the inevitable.

Taking an engineering point of view, I suspect any changes will be throughout rather than time dependent.

I think you are wrong here, these islands are closely monitored by NTS. The health of the seabird populations is not left to chance and the whim of climbers. They are not some unmanaged lump of rock. There may indeed be restrictions imposed, but I imagine on Mingulay it would be more to do with camping numbers and day trippers.