UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_956-7829...

Exile: Congratulation on sending Straight Tash, sometimes the routes where one has a little bit of margin of error are the toughest mentally, so well done! The Cassin looks like an amazing target, i wish you best of luck that all the stars align for that one.

Ian Parnell: Great to see you back on your project and congratulations on getting  all the moves done. I know working moves in a steep part can be challenging, when you don't get back to the wall and just hang in the air. But the good news is, that the more you get used to it, the easier it gets to get back on the rock through some dynamic pullups. Yes, a little bit of explosive power is needed for that, but there is also a lot of technique involved, so i would recommend to just try it a little bit. Amazing day out on Cloggy, getting up at 3:50 and being back after midnight tops everything that i have ever done in the alps, by a large margin so i am really impressed!

Derek Furze: First pullup done and also some dancing back in the weekly training plan, i would say you have checked two more milestones! I am also happpy to hear that you don't need surgery Though it is a little bit of a bummer that it will take a lot of time to fully heal, it would have been much worse with a surgery. 

Si dH: Congratulations on the promotion, so it looks like the stress at work has at least paid off. Good call on reducing the weight on the fingerboard to something that is strenous but doable. In the end the goal is to gain strength instead of proveing strength, which is an easy trap to fall into. Good reflection on Dog Shooter, sometimes it is easy to be too confident and not dial down every move perfectly, so it looks like you learned a lesson and got the send!

Alan Little: An easy week was well deserved after an epic last week. Great to hear that you finger has recovered enough for a moonboard session and easing into it looks like a good strategy. I would not worry too much about the boulderwelt session. Their traverse routes are a little bit specific and different from lead climbing, as you usually don't get any rest on it. Hence, it requires more power endurance imo which is quickly lost but also quickly gained, so i am sure if you include it back in your training on a regularly level you would be fine after 2-3 sessions.

biscuit: Yeah, i know once yoou have reached a certain level it takes a lot of effort to get your finger stronger. I am happpy to hear that you finally had some good luck with the weather and fully utilized that with two good sessions. I hope your shoulder did not bothered you too much this week and taking it a little bit easier is definitely the right attitude.

Ross Barker: An really awesome way to finish a trip with a lot of Font 7s. It really looks like you have reached a new level, so i hope you take a lot of motivation out of this trip into your next training block. 

Tom Green: Yeah, "climbing" with feet on the ground will definitely feel a little bit strange, but at least you don't get any weird looks if you are doing it on your homeboard . Targeting more bouldery routes is definitely a good approach if it is harder for you to train endurance. But a little bit of base endurance will probably still be helpfull. Thus, i would not ignore it completely, but just doing a little bit longer warmup or cool down might already be enough for that.

ExBristolian: I don't remember reading a lot of bike sessions in your weekly reports lately, so 3 rides must have been a strong cardio week for you. Additionally, some impressive finger edge lift and one arm pullup training. 6 singles with 5kg assistance is very decent and you are probably not that far away from doing a on armer without assistance.

Somerset swede basher: Very impressive weekend, though it looks to me like a little bit of type 2 fun was also included. Looking at the stats of your Saturday epic, i would guess that you burned more than 2000 kcal, so it is not surprising that 500 kcal more for lunch is not quite enough . I am little bit amazed that you recovered that well after running out of water on Saturday. I've been severely dehyrated twice in the my life after some epic in the alps, and both times it took me days to recover from that, so having an easier day afterwards looks like a wise decision to me.

BTphonehome: A very decent week with a lot of outdoor mileage. I am pretty sure if you train high rockovers a little bit more you can apply your improved hip flexibility a lot better. In the end flexibility is like lockoff strength a tool but you still you to learn how to apply it correctly to make the most out of it. And sometimes the hardest part is mental trust to believe that this will actually especially when you are not in a completely safe environment.

mrchewy: Congratulations for getting the Südgrat done. I would really focus on the positives, you dug deep when you needed and went way out of your comfort zone. Of course it would have been nice to be a little bit fitter and also to be able to lead some pitches. But looking at all of the challenges that you had in the weeks before your trip, it is an amazing achievement to get this route done!

AJM: I am happy to see a lot of shoulder rehab work again in your weekly report. And even more important, some outdoor climbing back in the mix and it looks you have managed to get right effort level. I hope things continue to improve and that the next weeks will also be a little bit less stressful.

Tyler: First of all congratulations for finishing your project. It must feel really satisfying to see the effort of all the work that you have put into it. Regarding your calf problems, i hope it is not too bad and that you found some of the advice that has been given by our fellow members helpful.

mattrm: Two climbing sessions and more importantly no mentioning of any DIY projects looks like a good week to me. I am also happpy to hear that your RCI instructor session went well. I am sorry to hear that your toe is still bothering you, but at least it looks like it does not cause any problems during climbing.

Small Step: Sorry to hear about your loss, my deepest condolences. Good to see that you are back after a 2 weeks absence and that your mental game continues to improve, well done!

the sheep: I am happy to see you back and hear that your injury has almost fully healed. Just remember to take it ease back into normal training and don't rampup the volume too quickly.

Mon: Rest

Tues: 4x8 Pullups with 2 min rest, Block Lift repeaters 20mm, 12x6x7,3 @24-26kg with 2 min rest

Wed: Rest

Thur: Block Lift repeaters 20mm, 12x6x7,3 @20-21kg with 2 min rest

Fri: Rest

Sat: Block Lift repeaters 20mm, 12x6x7,3 @21-22kg with 2 min rest

Sun: S&C: L-Sit 2x10s, 3x8,10 Pullups with 2 min rest, Handstands, 2x12 Pike Pushups, 2x12 Lunges, 2x30 Bodyweight Squats, 40 Pushups 45s V-Situps

Tested my fitness on Tuesday and was quite pleased with the results. Average level was similar to end of last year, though i feel like my right hand is currently much stronger than my left one. I am also quite happy with increasing the pullup volume. 

Thank you for the stats and nice comments. I’ve still got the last move to do on the project, I’m hoping to sort that out this week, but it basically needs me to come in from above which is far from straightforward. Hoping for at least one, maybe two sessions on the project this week.

STG - 7b (1-2 months)

MTG - (1-4 months) – Brachiation Dance (7b+)

LTG – 15 grade 7 sport routes (11/15) with 6 at 7a+ or above (3/6)

Mon – Nothing.

Tuesday – Awesome Walls – Half a dozen warm up boulders. Then Kilter board for an hour. Half a dozen problems at 30 degrees including a couple of 6as. Tried eight or so 6as at 40 degrees got to the top of three.

Wednesday – 25min run in the woods, felt sluggish.

Thursday – Early before work session at Depot. Hard to wake up fully. Warmed up 4x (white, blue, black) Tried 4 reds got up one. 50 degree Woodie for 15 mins. Felt weak. Tried another 6 reds got up 2. Struggled a bit this session.

Fri – Nothing.

Saturday – 25min run in the woods. Felt better than previous recent runs.

Sunday – Awesome Walls. Short warm up then an hour on the Kilter Board. Tried 7 problems at 30 degrees got up 5 including 2 x 6as. Tried 12? 6as at 40 degrees – massive spread of difficulty, managed four. Very hot, so running with sweat 10mins in. Didn’t realise there were fans I could use till the last 5mins! Still good session

Reflection - Tired from last week’s big Cloggy day at beginning of this week, then wet weekend so concentrated on training. The Kilter Board sessions are more fun. I don’t try anything more than 3 times but even the stuff I flash, feels as though its pushing me. Didn’t feel I was climbing particularly well but lots of volume on steep stuff.

Thanks for doing the stats Randy.  

Weight - 14st
STG - 6b

MTG - 6c - 28/100 routes/problems this year

LTG - Western Front Direct (7a) at Navigation Quarry

BHAG - F7A boulder somewhere / kickflip

M - Rest
T - MTB ride 17kms

W - Bouldering and 7km (500m asc) run
T - Rest
F - Rest 
S - MTB ride with Son, 10k and then MTB ride 17kms in the evening.
S - Rest

Running KMs - 7 kms

Thankfully no DIY this week either.  I don't mind a small project, but replacing half the shed roof took a while.  Feeling fairly fatigued this week.  Wednesday was quite tiring, but an excellent day.  10 problems in total.  I've been struggling a bit with topping out on problems, but managed to top out 10.  Really feel like I've broken the back of a bit of a mental block there.  Which brings me up to 28 out of 100, slow progress, but there's another 10 fairly easy problems at that venue I can get sorted.  I'd link it, but it's not on UKC.  Really happy with that, great progress.  None of the problems were hard, but it was just a good session.  Otherwise, lots of decent cardio jammed in this week.  Having a great time going out riding with my son.  Which has meant I've been very tired, but hopefully it'll get better soon.

No change on the weight, but there we go.  Haven't tried so hard this week.  I'll try harder with the diet in a few weeks time, see if I can get some progress going there.

Many thanks Randy and yes, I was very relieved that no surgery is needed.

A pretty standard week with 5km of intervals on Wednesday and a slower run on Thursday.  I was actually sore from the intervals, so Thursday was rubbish really.  However, I hope to have a training partner next week, which I hope will help me with zone 2 runs.

Did parkrun on Saturday after a very late night at the closing party for our local wine bar and dance venue.  I still get pretty sore across my shoulders (both dancing and running) and need to stop and stretch, but my time are heading down towards my old usual times now, do I'm improving steadily and may get my age-graded over 60% soon!  

Suggestions re intervals welcome.  I do a couple of Kms of 100m (20 seconds) and prints alternated with 100m recovery walk, then a couple of Kms of 250m running (1:05) with recovery walks of 250.  I am aiming to change the walk bits to jogs soon.

Climbing planned this week!

Thanks Randy, it was a really fun weekend.

Mon. 8km run with just 80m vert. I was tired after the weekend but pleased to be 5.09mins/km given that I felt slower than that 

Tues. Warmed up for a finger board session but wasn't feeling it so dodged the looming injury and had an early night instead.

Wed. 6km run with 170m vert. Stead pace with the boy. 6 sets of repeaters, 5x5 pull up, 3x10 press ups.

Thurs. 30mins continuous easy climbing, 5x5 pull up, 3x10 press ups.

Fri and Sat. Rest, busy with family stuff.

Sun. Sport climbing at a very humid Cow Dale with Tom. 6a, 6b+, 6b to warm up then Duelling Biceps (7a+) and The Philandering Sons of Magic Women (7a) both second tie in after a descent onsight attempt. Even if conditions had been better I don't think I would have onsighted these (maybe the first one) as the beta wasn't obvious. 6a+ to warm down.

Thanks again for the stats Randy. Not sure the weather/ conditions are going to ply ball for the Cassin, but we'll see!

Last week I wrote - Easy week coming up as flying to the Alps for a week next Saturday...

Training / aims:

Spring / Summer 2025 climbing aims:

Weight - keep to daily 78.something kg ✓

Aim to gently reach 75kg?

Keep to training programme and climbing through what will be a full on work year.

Winter climb when available ✓

Redpoint 7b (Straight Tach, Millside Scar) ✓

Headpoint E6 6b (Exequy, Red Wall, Trowbarrow) ✓

Onsighting harder mountain E2s (eg Equus ✓ Astra ✓ Tumbleweed Connection, Fast Burn ✓)

*Maybe E3s (Cruel Sister, Paladin, Air on a Bow String) & E4s that suit me (One Step Beyond, Malice in Wonderland)

*Maybe Needle and Citadel (Shelterstone) in a day as Comici prep?

*Big Alpine rock route – 12 to 24hr cardio & climbing effort – Cassin / Comici? 

*Aspirational goals

Longer term climbing aims: 

Regularly have adventures in great places with good friends & family ✓

Continue Alpine route progression to complete more big classic alpine rock routes.

Continue British winter climbing ✓

Continue climbing Hard Rock type routes outside the Lakes.

Keep Head/Red Point grade in 7s ✓ and E5s ✓

Onsight up to at least E2 ✓ & V ✓ (winter) each year.

Improve while not getting injured 

M - 14.7.25 - 

W - 80.3kg

am - 40min back, shoulders & finger stretch

Work - Ofsted phoned to say we were going to be subject to a two day graded inspection during the last week of the school year. Marvelous. 

T - 15.7.25 - 

W - 78.1kg - Ofsted, a great weight loss plan.

Work - Inspection.

W - 16.7.25 - 

W - 78.0kg - Continued impressive weight loss.

Work - Inspection.

T - 17.7.25 -

W - 78.0kg

am - 30min back stretch

pm - Climbing @ SS. Led 6a+ & 6c+, TR go on 7a+

F - 18.7.25 - 

W - ? 

am - 30min back & shoulder stretch

Work - Finish 

Climbing - Pack

S - 19.7.25 -

W - ?kg

am - 1hr back & shoulder stretch

Leave Kendal @ 8.00am. Sat in Ailefroide by 9.00pm

S - 20.7.25 - 

W - ?

am - Palavar Les flats. 12 pitches up to 5c in 2.5hrs. first time using micro tractions. Great fun

Reflections. 

Weight - Pretty good.

Climbing - Good maintenance session dodging showers at Scout Scar on Thursday. I'm now in the Alps with an excellent climbing partner, physically well rested, phsyed and a bit angry with the world, so it should be a good week if the weather plays ball.

Woo and yay!  Glad to hear you're back at it.

Thanks Randy. Happy to hear your fitness test went well - always nice to hear people happy with where they are.

This week has been lots of rain, lots of chilling, good food, beer and friends.

Mon - Rain. Still very achy legs from Salbit, so did all the usual stuff. Stretching, ultrasound, massage, lymph work etc.

Tue - Indoor climbing at Pilatus Indoor. 8 boulder problems up to B3. The grade system is B1-6. Felt like maybe V2 for the harder ones I did. Then did 8 routes on the autobelay, all slightly overhanging and did them in twos. I think all 5b-c, maybe one 6a+. Fell off the last one as my tips were burning, still thin after Salbit despite Elizabeth Arden. I wasn't really motivated, I guess from the usual post-goal malaise.

Wed - Mushroom hunting before the rain. Found a very small amount of those yellow ones, we were out three hours, almost 7km and 300m of ascent. Amazing views of Pilatus.

Thu - Rain. Got up to go climbing at 4.45am but the weather looked awful, so went back to bed.

Fri - Climbing at 'The Beach'. A perfect day, some clouds and a light breeze. Had planned to lead the mid sixes, however, made the choice to climb with a clear head after the cluttered brain of Salbit and TR - the best choice I could have made. Warmed up on Anxiety Neurosis 6b+, which I've lead lots but this time, I found much easier beta for the strong 1st & 2nd bolts after really watching René and Philip. The layback at the top was still wet after all the rain but cruised the route really. Then went back on Camino del Carstino 6c, the one that had kicked my butt a couple of weeks ago. Rene's suggestion as I'd have picked something easier but after studying René's laybacking technique on it, I did really well - clean all the way through to the mantle below the crux rockover. Seriously chuffed with this as it's vertical and I didn't get pumped. My right knee has bone spurs and doesn't bend fully, so I had to work out some extra foot movements for the rockover, which I don't have the strength for but I do now have the beta for. On the top thin layback, I made one mistake just before the chains, taking the last okay hold with the wrong hand. I was really happy. Then Philip wanted to try a 35m 7c, so René put in the draws, Philip made a TR of it and then I had a TR go at the lower third of it. A tough slab with tiny crimps which went okay with a couple of falls before I found my foot beta, the shield bit next felt easy and then I did okay on the left layback up to the start of the crux area. Obviously hard for me but really fun and I didn't embarrass myself at all. René did it clean and Philip had another TR before we called it a day and headed to the bar. A really ace day all round. Relaxed, joyous and lots of progress too.

Sat - Rest. Felt okay after the day before.

Sun - Hiked up to 1100m or so, perfect Swiss scenery and nice weather. A few kilometres I guess. I enjoyed it immensely. Felt really strong in the legs on the ups and not an ache from climbing on Fri. I even ran 100m up a steep hill and running hasn't been possible since February. Then rain and thunder etc for the rest of the day and I think all night.

This week,I sorta got that post goal flatness that happens sometimes - not just from climbing Salbitschijen but from getting better. I think the whole last three years has been so focused on getting well, that now I can say I am well, my whole body and nervous system just went 'urgh' and slumped on a metaphorical sofa. It felt right to just be easy and kind to myself this week, to let my nervous system come down and relax after being on a state of alert for far too long.

It's shown on my Garmin watch too, far more blue than normal, my heart rate has also been happily down in the 50s during the day when before Salbit, it was always in the 60s unless sleeping. Oxygen levels are up as well, for less breaths a minute. It's quite staggering. I feel really chill.

Climbing on Friday went ace. A huge jump in technique for me. I can now image leading Camino del Carstino one day - I honestly didn't think I had a hope of ever doing that when I first tried it. It's still beyond me currently but definitely something to aim for. I always felt like I was hanging on for my life when laybacking, even when I did Mötorhead, but I seem to have found out how to find a rest when needed. Nice to have a goal in such a beautiful place. A king line 6c.

No idea what this week brings, the forecast is not the best but my wife arrives on Wednesday for a week, so it's gonna be ace anyway.

Well done everyone and I hope that answers Small Step's question.

Hope the Ofsted inspection went ok. A stressful time indeed.

Good luck for this week. Could be one of those you never forget if it goes well.

Thanks Randy, things are far from finished but I managed to get the bare minimum done in time for the family visit and, yes, it was very satisfying to see the room in use.

The feed back was very useful but unfortunately events have overtaken me on that front as I’ve had a reoccurrence of the knee injury that took me out just before Christmas (what I thought was torn meniscus was bits of cartilage floating around the joint). Last time I was out for a month but recovery was far from linear. On the plus side it doesn’t seem as bad this time and I reckon I’ll be able to do steep indoor routes soon. 
M:  Oak Tree Crag introducing our niece to outdoor climbing, she loved it, NWL delivering the goods once again! For anyone with kids or beginners this is an ideal venue, it’s low grade limestone climbs so there is obviously potential for loose rock but there was nothing obvious. 
T: Beacon, did ok on routes but felt out of sorts on bouldering. 
W: Penmaen-bach Arete (Grade-3), pretty terrifying being responsible for someone else’s child so hats off to those doing this for a living!

T: Blochaus, I do like it here but I’m hoping the grades are hard as I maxed out at V4 and didn’t manage all of these. 
F: Second new crag of the week; Big Depot, Manc. Climbed ok considering I was a bit hungover and it was pretty warm/humid but unfortunately this is when my knee started giving out. 

'Nothing obvious'.  I think I might find it!

Thanks Randy.

My goals:

 - to make the most of my half-days out (twice a month weather-permitting)

 - fingerboard training twice a week (medium term goal to be able to train at bodyweight +25kg for 10 s hangs)

 - gradually improve my right elbow to the point that I can do weighted pull up training

 - keep up the current diet (~1900 kcal per day + exercise, LTG is back down to ~75kg from a starting weight of about 84.5kg on 13/04)

This week:

M: evening, did a few IYWs on TRX, plus 4x 2 pull-ups with bw+17kg. Then 3 hangs on a 10mm edge with feet on. I managed to take my feet off for about 5 seconds. Very pleased with that, I wasnt planning to lift my feet off the floor but it just sort of happened. It might not sound much but I have always been very weak on these small edges.

T: 4 x 10 second max hangs with bw+17kg

W: rest

T: 4 x 8 second max hangs with bw+17kg. 1 x 2 pull-ups with +17kg. I was training very late and tired but was determined to get something done. Decided to cut hang time rather than taking more weight off.

F: rest/drive to center parcs

S: lots of walking around and swimming etc chasing the boys. Did some active pulls in the evening - mixture of 4 finger crimps and front 3 drags.

S: more walking and swimming chasing the boys. Also did an assault course thing in the treetops with son No.1, which I found a little scarier than expected, it's obviously been too long since I did any big routes Pretty knackered this evening. No scales available.

Drive home tomorrow afternoon and hopeful of getting a couple of evenings out this week if weather and work play ball.

Si

Good morning all, hope you're doing well.

Yeah I'm quite pleased with my performance on this trip. Perhaps a bit underwhelmed by the volume of easier/moderate boulders, but I don't think the areas lent themselves to that sort of day out as well as Bishop or Font. Too spaced out at Gottardo, too much of a pain to get around in MW!

A decent week back at home, feeling weak on the OAPUs but good performance at the cave. Fingers feel okay back on plastic but I'm not comfortable ratting on anything, could be a mental block, but not too bothered by it. Kind of want improvements before returning to The Punk but also want it to be cool conditions so no rush!

Last Week:

Avg weight - 74.7kg.

M - Rest.

T - 11km round trip cycle to wall, then an unrecorded amount of time bouldering, then 2x one arm negatives, and 5x5s 13mm F3HC hangs. Negatives felt very hard after a month off, who'dathunk it?

W - 45m skate, poor surface so it was hard work but felt like I nailed a couple decent rolling ollies. Possibly enough to pop up a curb, even!

T - 45m bouldering, some hard moves tried. Left wrist felt a bit awkward to start but cleared up swiftly. 4x2 band-assisted OAPUs, 5x5s 13mm F3HC.

F - 45m skate. Felt less confident. More people around than I would have liked...

S - Big session at Parisella's Cave. Warmed up, then was allured by Beaver Cleaver Direct (V8+). Spent ages trying to find a sequence for the second move, in the end resorting to an inconsistent toehook thing. Next had to do the first move. The modern jam/lock technique was too painful, and the old school jug-and-jump was huge, but feasible. Stuck it eventually, then it was time to link. Maybe the fifth time I stuck the first move, I caught the hold and placed the toe just well enough to succeed on the rest of the sequence. Not easy! After a long rest I did Beaver Cleaver (V8) second go (disregarding all the goes on direct, of course), and then Lip Service (V7) also second go. Absolutely boxed by the end of the day!

S - Rest.

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Climbing/rehab.

W - Rest.

T - Climbing/rehab.

F - Rest.

S, S - Climbing.

Goals:

Ingrain a "rehab first" approach to climbing sessions.

One arm pull-up.

Improve lower body mobility.

Louisville Lip.

The Punk SDS.

Rigpa.

Interesting thoughts on the steep circuits Randy. It's a bit early yet for me to be specifically training PE for the Grande Grotta in November: my focus at the moment isn't so much on the physical benefits, more on building mental and technical comfort in the steeps as somebody whose comfort zone is very much in vert crimping.

STG: Resume local sport climbing
MTG: Summer '25 - Dolomites and/or Swiss granite. Salbit hut booked.
LTG: Autumn '25 - tufa 7a
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823

M:    Rest day. Yesterday's steep circuit board session clearly did something - aching shoulders today. A bit of stretching
T:    ditto

W:    Thalkirchen bouldering. Instead of continuing to bash my head against a benchmark project on the moonboard, I am adopting an outflanking approach: (a) simply get to the top of the moonboard using anything and (b) look for things at 40° on the kilterboard that aren't just huge lunges between jugs.
    Bike two hours - office & back via climbing wall

T:    Bike 1½ hours to the office & back, 2 x 40 storey stairs

F:    Boulderwelt. Warmed up on regular boulders and some recruitment hangs, then another half a dozen laps on the steep circuit board (one more than last week) and some shoulder work in the weights room.
    Bike two hours - office & back via climbing wall

S:    Rest day / chores. Aching glutes suggest I may have been making at least some effort to pull in with my feet on yesterday's steep circuit session: good.

S:    Freimann "volume" session - only eight routes as I arrived rather late
    Bike there & back about 2½ hours.

I am conducting a medical experiment on myself. I've had pretty bad hayfever since childhood. Recently in the hot weather I found myself wondering if being chronically tired and lacking energy might be not just the heat, but also the fact that I've been taking antihistamines every day for months. So I've gone cold turkey and am accepting a few more itchy eyes and sniffles (not too bad so far) as the price of (maybe, hopefully) more energy and alertness. We shall see.

Alan - hayfever drugs were a major part of my life but this year, I'm off them. No allergies, no asthma. 

Try having a read about Butekyo breathing, download the Oxygen Advantage app and you might find it helps. Keeping the tongue in the roof of the mouth, whilst nose breathing only, also helps. Lots of science behind all this and it's been life-changing for me.

Hi Randy,

Thanks for your remarks and condolences.

Mon: light weights & stretching
Tue: hangboard
Wed: wall, Thalkirchen, 9 routes (shorter wall), 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b, 5c, 2 x 7a (top rope to work moves), 6a. Good session, and while there was no ‘highlight’ breathing moment like last week, things really are starting to come together…psychosomatic field more & more a source of relaxation, at times indeed a nicely temperate joy (don’t want go overboard) and not the minefield of trauma-related activations…
Thu: weights
Fri: hangboard
Sat: gentle plod, ca. 30 min
Sun: wall, Bad Aibling, blitz late afternoon session, very hot…7 routes: 6a, 6a+, 6b+ (tr), 6b+, 6c, 6a, 7a (tr). Moved quite well despite the heat and again the psychosomatic network was humming along nicely

your mental game continues to improve, well done!

Thanks – more improvement last week as well…humming along isn’t a bad description actually. Gradually the task emerging is not to burden this new-found / occasionally accessible state (it found me actually) by using it as a springboard & launching pad for the old wishes, goals & aims…they are gone…

Rock climbing planned for Sat – Mon. Alas, deluges of biblical proportions are falling and forecasted for Thu & Fri. See if we even get out. If we do – bit of alpine / multipitch Reiteralpe…and if we do go, then I will be exposing myself to yet another dimension of the trauma fallout: my jittery nervousness / clumsiness / awkwardness in setting up belay stands and my embarrassment about this – of course my partner will lead everything, but why I’m not leading the odd pitch will certainly be very much hovering around…

Wishing all a good week.

What's on the agenda for Reiteralpe? We ended up doing Sternschnuppe after failing to identify the start of Astrofant.

Thanks, mrchewy.

Great description to which I can well relate...in my experience, any phase of healing leaves one a bit delicate, sort of like a gentle afterglow, there is no impetus to do anything and that's extremely healthy...I trust and hope for you (and myself ) that the chill becomes accessible while we are also doing things / becomes a resource or a resort ... and not only when an end or a conclusion is reached...

whatever - your Friday crag day is absolute tops...

Axel, won't tell me ... no, he's just very brief in his organisation e-mails - I think it will either be one of the Amann / Brüderl routes or the northeast ridge on the Kleiner Brüderl...

I'm hoping that we also go to the Raue Wand for some multipitch practice...Need to start a charm offensive...

How was Sternschuppe? Heard from different people that it's a terrific route - and a bit dicey even if bolted...

Good luck with you're experiment - your diagnosis certainly sounds plausible...

I thought Sternschnuppe was decent but maybe a bit overrated. The crux is awkward but short; there was a very good pitch after that with a bit of a blind move round a corner onto a steep & exposed juggy wall.

It was a while ago but I don't remember finding the bolting at all worrying. Might have tied off a latschen or two with slings on the easy finishing pitch.

I didn't put that right, sorry....the bolting's not the problem - I've read of a woman who went off route, fell awkwardly and died, and more recently a hold broke and a climber took a nasty fall while leading ...rescue service called in...

Interesting to hear your view...you've never done anything on the Alpawand?
I've always wanted to do Hasenalarm and Fata Morgana, just because of the names of course...

Well spotted - biking is normally a once a week activity, but i've ramped it up a bit since my DIP tweak at Pex has prevented too much climbing volume. This week I ticked off the first of my 3 biking goals for the summer.

Week 29

M – Short recruitment session. Finger edge lifts 16 to 66kg with 20mmm Tension Block. Felt good on achy shoulders, forearms and glutes. Evening stretches.

T – Felt good warming up, repeating a few 6C to 7B things. Perhaps linked to the recruitment session yesterday? Rainy aero-power “redpoints” on vague replica of outdoor objective. Tensiony 7B+; knee; thuggy 7B+; poor juggy shake; slappy 7B. I got through to the last 7B bit twice, and felt like I was able to fight a pump instead of powering out. 3rd go I barely got through to the knee, so overall difficulty of the link-up and session intensity seemed spot on.

W – V painful thoracic overnight; must have tweaked something the day before. Bench-press rep-pyramid up to 75kg single, then straight into 8x 55kg finisher. 3x8 16kg bicep curls.

T – Thoracic still grumbly resulting in poor sleep. Finger edge lifts to warm-up. 16 to 66kg with 20mmm Tension Block. Borking session 1 of yielding isometrics; 6 sets of 76kg single lifts. COMPEX core.

F – Nowt but evening stretches.

S – First longer ride objective ticked Laureen’s Ride in full; 56km of local bridleways, gravel tracks and quiet roads (plus 10km road to get to start and back). Some sketchy riding in the damp with semi-slicks and a mechanical hindered going full-bore for a sub 2hr time. Still chuffed with keeping a good pace for >2hrs with approx. 2L water and 4x gels. Later, 2mile chasing Squiggle on a bike.

S – Amazing lack of leg or shoulder DOMS; perhaps showing that poor fuelling and hydration was hindering recovery on previous longer rides? Finger edge lifts to warm-up. 16 to 66kg with 20mmm Tension Block. Borking session 2 of yielding isometrics; 6 sets of 78kg single lifts. 3x10 leg raises.

Hi everyone. Thanks for the stats, Randy.

Week 29:

Bit of a 'meh' week. Busy with life and work and struggling a bit with training discipline. Two days of sport climbing highlighted that I am pretty weak at the moment. Need to have a think about how to balance training and climbing. Also, need to be a bit more focussed and intentional about making the stuff happen that I want/need to do.

M: Nowt. Ran out of time for planned session.

T: As with Monday.

W: Climbing. Sport at Dinbren. Good session, but reinforced that I am horribly weak on undercuts. A partner had flagged this up recently when we were climbing at Two Tier, so need to use the board to address this. Also, scared to fall -really need to work on this.

T: Rest. Long work day, so didn't manage the planned CARs and prehab.

F: Board sesh. Made some undercut problems.

S: Nowt.

S: Climbing. Sport at Craig y Biceps. Everything felt desperate at the grade, which I guess is just a style thing... I felt a long way from my slabby comfort zone!

Week 30:

M: CARs, Prehab, Fingers.

T: Rest.

W: Climbing.

T: Climbing.

F: Climbing.

S: Run.

S: CARs, Prehab, Fingers.

STG (End July):

Five E2s (3/5)

Three E3s (0/3)

Get on a safe E4 (Tick! x1)

Onsight 6c 

LTG (Nov 2025):

40 E-points (34/40)

Onsight E4.

I've bailed from about halfway up Wassersymphonie

Always looked rather intimidating to me...or more water than symphony?

Just got one of Axel's ultra brief mails...he's cancelled the hut booking...looks like plastic this weekend...

Exactly. We got past the technical crux - ferocious, glad I wasn't leading that pitch - but when we arrived at the second soaking wet 6b pitch our hearts failed us

Thanks

The start of this week was hampered by the slow healing of the flapper on my palm, which meant I couldn't use weights the early part of the week.

Thursday/Friday I did a bunch of lugging and carrying taking the home board apart and getting it and a variety of other things down the stairs and into a van.

Saturday/Sunday the process went in reverse in the new place, we got the board basically all set back up (there's a few screws left that might need the drill to get them in), bought and set up a shelving rack in the garage which will probably store much of the climbing gear, finished building a table and chairs, entertained the in-laws for a bit, put a bit more paint on the garage wall, met some of the neighbours, and had a pub lunch at the new local.

Sunday I also did some rehab once we got home.

Another busy week this week prepping for holiday. All go!

It sounds like you have got your priorities right for the moving process, good job!

13 hours is a good time for Kendal to Ailefroide.  Hope you get some decent weather (especially now that you have sunbathing chairs!

Thanks Randy. Good points. 

Yes, have listened to some good information this year about not just training passive hip flexibility but including work which targets strength in bigger range of motion so it can be applied better. Have tried to include some of this stuff but there's always room for more. 

Hope all good with you.

w/c 14.07.25

Monday

AM – Rest

PM – Little Depot: 5x5 shoulder shrugs. Leg Set: Goblet Squats: 3x8 @ 30kg, Split Squats 3x8 @ 30kg, Calf Raises: 3x20 @ 30kg. Mobility work: RDL’s 3x10 reps, Pancake Reaches 3x10 reps. Bar Knee Raises: 3x8 reps. 15 mins exercise bike.

Tuesday

AM – Max Hangs: 5x10 sec @ 1x10kg, 4x17kg

PM – Little Depot: 5x5 shoulder shrugs. Pull Set: Max Pull-Ups: 5x3reps @ 24, 28, 28, 28, 28kg (PB), Hammer Curls: 3x8 @ 12.5kg, Bicep Curls: 3x8 @ 12.5, 15, 15kg, Bent Rows: 3x8 @ 22.5, 25, 25kg (PB). Boulder Intervals: 20x 14 move V2 traverse in 20mins. 1min On/2min Off: x10 reps @5/+ on woody. Hip mobility.

Wednesday

AM – Rest

PM – Little Depot: 15 mins ex bike. Push Set: External Rotations: 3x10 @10kg, Shoulder Press: 3x8 @ 15kg, 17.5kg, 17.5kg (PB), Lateral Raise 3x10 @7.5kg, Triceps Cable: 3x20 @ 5kg, Chest Press: 3x8 @ 15kg. 1min On/2min Off: x10 reps @5/+ on woody circuit board.

Thursday

Rest

Friday

AM – Max Hangs: 5x10 sec @ 1x10kg, 5x17kg

PM – 3 hours crag cleaning at Cadshaw Quarry.

Saturday

AM - Little Depot: 5x5 shoulder shrugs, 10x blues. Pull Set: Max Pull-Ups: 5x3reps all @ 28kg (PB - didn't quite manage final rep), Hammer Curls: 3x8 @ 12.5kg, Bicep Curls: 3x8 @ 15kg, Bent Rows: 3x8 @ 25, 27.5, 27.5kg (PB). Boulder Intervals: 20x 14 move V2 traverse in 20mins. 2min On/2min Off: x8 reps @5/+ on woody circuit board. Hip mobility.

PM – Rest/family

Sunday

AM – Rest/house jobs

PM – 5km flat run locally

Summary

A good training week and good to see some more progress on a few different weight sets. Opportunities for outdoor climbing were limited by commitments and the weather, particularly at the weekend. So packed in as much as I could in the time available knowing enforced rest was ahead this week...

So I'm on a deload week (or more) with day case surgery completed on Monday and light duties for the recovery period. So will follow the guidance, listen to my body and try not to do too much too soon whilst returning to training and climbing. But hopefully only a few weeks of reduced activity. Will see where I am when I get back in full swing and start gearing things toward trips at the end of September (TBC) and November (Morocco).

Have a good week all.

13hrs - we cheated - flew Milan and then a hire car. 

It's got to be said that my new camp chairs is bloody awesome! 

Thanks Randy, Had a relatively light week due to returning from holiday and  family stuff so happy to report no further injury woes 

Monday, chill out day as still on holiday, went for a nice wander along Peakshole water.

Tuesday, 5k run with the wife

Wednesday, packing up the holiday stuff and heading home

Thursday, eldest daughters graduation day. Very proud daddy day but still not sure how i am suddenly old enough to have a graduate daughter!!

Friday, back in the gym. Full body work out at about 75% of pre injury/holiday weight to ensure good form and avoid going to hard too soon.

Saturday, back in the gym to give everywhere a good stretch out.

Sunday, 17km trail; run with eldest daughter. Felt it should have been reasonably easy after all the hill work in Derbyshire but was bloody tough going!