/ UKC fit club 294

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Keendan - on 04 Nov 2012
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (293) thread:
Si dH – Enjoyed reading about your trip. Sounds ace. Well done on 7a OS, and flashing the 7a the ripped Spaniards were falling off!
JimmyKay – Flashing 7b and making quick work of 7cs, good effort. Hang on to this trip for psyche as you get back into work.
Biscuit – 8 pitch 6a with 3 clients sounds hard work. I thought two pitches with one client was hard enough! And that’s a big old hangover
Pebbles – Good mix of sessions there. I like your plan of doing bouldering before routes and circuits. Don’t worry too much about being fresh for a session though. You might sometimes be tired from your last session like on Tuesday, but the accumulated training load will pay off when you next have a good rest.
Eagle River – Nice work pushing onto 7cs
Kevster – Ouch, not good. Hope it heals soon.
Exile – Impressive amount of fingerboarding squeezed around a normal climbing week.
Grubes – It’s so hard to avoid flash pump in the cold. Well done on the run, hopefully more to come?
NMN – Quiet week but totally forgivable. You seem to do plenty enough most weeks to afford a few work-induced days off.
Leon – Sorry to hear you’re so busy. What’s your work? Gonna guess product manufacture of some sort.
MrChewey – Cool to read such a positive post. Keep trying hard, it clearly works!
Ali – Good week, and congrats on 6c+ flash!
Anak – First 6c, good work. Go for it on lead, have fun prepping for Costa Blanca.
AJM – Sounds like a good week. Well done with strength/power milestones. Gogarth always feels a little bit scary doesn’t it.
IainRUK – Great result, well done.
Rollo – Lots there, solid week.
Ian Bell – Welcome back. It seems we’ve all been getting ill recently, hopefully that can change
Mattrm – Well done, it sounds like a really tough challenge. Maybe 5 day’s rest is resting “too hard”?
Ally Smith – Strong week, and good variety. You’ve raised the average UKCFC bar considerably!
Steve John B – Better to post nothing than avoid posting, but 7 rest days is a bit extreme. A short run or some press ups wouldn’t go amiss?
Alex@home – Great week. Structure is good for circuit sessions. And we have another fit clubber on the BF scales!
Odd Toast – 2 6a leads and you weren’t even feeling well. Good effort there!
Nomics4Sale – Hard sport slabs are a bit scary! Well done getting on the E2 and getting a proper fall under your belt. Build on this with a bit more confidence and you’ll start getting them clean. “Stay cool” I say this to myself to avoid over gripping, but whatever works for you…
SeanKenny – Looking forward to the update.
Kevster - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan,

Finger tweak was sore from work tues and weds, so I didn't climb during the week again.
I did get out to Burbage on Saturday, wet and cold morning, cold afternoon. If it'd been dry in the morning possibly considered excellent grit conditions. Did long tall sally and sentinel, both OS. Finger didn't hurt at all. Which is encouraging. For those wanting an easy E2 - Sentinel may suit, easier than long tall sally I felt, just intimidating from the ground.
Nice to get outside again.
This week: climb once indoors, and try to get out next weekend, maybe sport climbing as trad is a bit chilly on the belays.

Thanks, Kev
Keendan - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

I too had a cold this week. Didn't feel up for running or "training".

However going climbing tends to make me feel better, so I kept that it.

M-Finished off new V4-5 problems. Finally sent the 7b+ circuit.
W-Climbed all the new V3-4 problems
F-Tried the comp problems, V5+ very hard set of problems, but plenty to work over the next few weeks.
Didn't feel great but managed to campus between two Beastmakers on the shallow monos. Gonna train monos again now because it's fun.
S-Burbage North. Soloed 4 HVSs and lead an E1. Flashed Banana finger V3 and Banana finger direct V4.

Walked a lot this week due to broken bike. Quite relaxing and burning 50% more calories per distance.

So not the best week for training, but finally a good week for healthy eating.

Didn't binge once this week, and currently weighing 65kg which is great.
Keendan - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Kevster:

Were you leading Sentinel when I was leading now or never?
Si dH - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan.

STG (October - will remove this next week): aim to flash F6c+ or harder every day 'on' in Kalymnos (FAILED BUT GOT LOTS OF GOOD SIMILAR GRADE MILEAGE), and onsight at least 1 F7a (SUCCEEDED).
MTG (this winter through to March):
- tick at least 10 Ft7s, including at least one Ft7b, before Font
- tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font (changed this slightly, to allow a day or two getting mileage at the beginning of the trip)
LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- tick F7c in Ceuse
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013

Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)

This week:

M: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Didnt feel massively strong but it was a good session, lasted quite a long time and did most of the new problems up to about V5.
T: Fingerboard, focussing on crimps
W: Fingerboard, focussing on slopers
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Fairly short session, tired after work but managed a couple of new problems again so not too bad.
F: 50 chin-ups in 5 minutes on the fingerboard (before breakfast to leave the rest of the day as recovery for the weekend)
S: Bouldering at Burbage. Spent a long time trying the eliminate sloper problem on the hanging rib by Remergence. It gets 6c+. I got quite close a few times but didn't tick it, I find it hard getting my feet out and up from under the roof in a position to throw for the top without coming off - the slopers aren't good enough to hold any sort of swing so theres a lot of body tension and very precise feet needed. Then went across to Burbage West to look at Breakfast again but conditions there were pants, really greasy. Wedding reception in the evening, ate loads :oS
S: rest day today

Good volume of training this week. Performance level yesterday not great but it was my first day out on grit this season, so to be expected. Decent week overall.

JayK - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:

When is Font?
Si dH - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Now or Never is desperate for E1 isn't it?
Sentinel certainly easier, also better!
Si dH - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to Si dH)
> When is Font?

early March
JayK - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:


So much so that we are booking flights today for some climbing in Rodellar over xmas! Yeah!!

Just if anyone was in any doubt, this is on the ticklist:

T-Work, gym and had curry!
W-Work and had Thai!
T-Work and then few routes at Wolf Mountain.
F-Work, climbed at the new bouldering wall in Brum (very good!) and had curry
S-Had a day off and went for a Thai!
S-No more restaurants! Will update if I end up doing some exercise! Haha.
JayK - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:

What's on your ticklist? We've already booked our font for Easter
Si dH - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:
It's my first trip really, the only problem I tried but didn't manage in the one day I've spent there before was Attention Chef d'Ouevre (sp) - so it would be nice to do that. Otherwise, the others have all been before several times and know Font far better than me, so I'll just be going with the flow and seeking out lots of good problems
JayK - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Attention Chef d'Ouevre is an awesome problem. I really like Buthiers as a place. The arete (Partage) on that block reminds you how hard v12 is.
Kevster - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Possibly, there was a pair climbing the arete, leader procrastinated a little at mid height before making the move. Early afternoon. I had to ab for a nut as my 2nd couldn't wiggle it out easy. there was another team on Sentinel later in the afternoon too.
If so, hello! Seems most of FC so far was at Burbage on saturday (along with 3 uni groups). Not that I bumped into any knowingly. Saw folk bouldering remergence and banana finger area too.

Banned User 77 - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

m: 3 mile easy recovery run. 1.5 hrs at the wall. felt awful climbing, first time in maybe a year I've been to the wall..
t: lunch: 5 mile road run. pm: 5 miles around llyn padarn
w: 5 mile trail run around lake
t: 11.5 mile trail run drumtotchty forest
f: 11.5 mile trail run Glen Derry and glen tilt
s: 14.7 mile road run, undulating around drumtotchty, 6:40 pace, felt good
s: hill run in the pentlands, 10 miles, 1000m ascent
JayK - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath

Siurana or Rodellar....??? What do people think? Seems I could go to either.
JBO on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan, I've just had an amazing week in Spain - the climbing in Catalunya is amazing! Managed all my goals for the week apart from the 7c+ RP, but I did get my 7c onsight - YAYYYY!

Sat - Flying in, had a half day at Col de Nargo, which wasn't the most inspiring crag in the world. Warmed up, faffed about on a silly 8m 7c for an hour, gave up then flashed a 7a.
Sun - Went to a crag called Abella de Conca, lots of really good lines. Warmed up on two of the hardest 6as I've ever done, then onsighted this amazing 35m 7b+ called 'El Diedre'. It started with this really technical, hard slab, then finished up this massive overhanging corner with barely any holds. Finished by doing a 45m 7a+ just to the right, absolutely knackered after that!
Mon - Went to Perles. Did a short multipitch, 6c, 6c, 6b+ to warm up, forgot how rubbish I am when I'm a long way up! After that we walked to the next sector to do this 7b+ I'd been psyching myself up for. Very technical again, it started up a really thin groove to a decent rest then a sprint for the top. I had some beans left in the tank so carried on up the 15m extension to get my first 7c o/s, Frederic Balsara. It was really a soft, technical 7b+, then a good rest, then a madly overhanging 7a+ pumpfest to finish.
Tue - Did a seven pitch 7a at Villanova. Really cold day, failed on the 7a pitch due to fingers being frozen solid but got the rest clean. Quite serious for a sport route, committing with a lot of dodgy rock!
Wed - Decided I needed a rest day, so I stayed at the apartment and did some homework.
Thur - I'd been told Tres Ponts was a 'soft' crag so we went there. Warmed up on a 6a+ and a 6b+ then onsighted a soft 7b+ called Graellada (more like easy 7b). Next I tried to o/s another 7c but again cold fingers got in my way, fell off on the crux halfway up then dogged to the top. Finished the day with a 7a flash and a 7b o/s. The 7b was probably the best single sport pitch I have ever done, and it went pretty cruisily.
Fri - Back at Perles, I tried to have a RP session on a 7c+. Spent about two hours on it, realised it was nails, and moved on. Finished the day doing another multipitch - 6b, 6c, 6a.
Sat - Couldn't go to Catalunya without going to Oliana! The crag is insane, massively steep, and the grade 9s there were amazing. After warming up I onsighted another 7b, which is acually the start to a 9a+ called Chaxi (an indirect (much easier) start to Chaxi Raxi, 9b). After that I flashed a 7a+ with beta from Dad, and finished the holiday onsighting a really nice 7a.

The final ticklist comes to:

1 x 7c onsight
3 x 7b+ onsight
2 x 7b onsight
2 x 7a+ onsight/flash
3 x 7a onsight/flash
2 x 6c multipitch onsight

Apologies for the essay but I'm really psyched about this week! I think the 7c o/s marks the only major step forward in sport climbing for more than a year, and it was something I'd been trying to do for a long time.

Cheers, Jake
Exile - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

All easy finger board sessions as I'm just getting started.


Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)

Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)

Goals for next spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+
HP - E6 if time / weather doesn't allow before Xmas
Winter - VI 7

Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Mon: 2.5hr mountain biking.
Tues: 2hrs mountain biking.
Wed: inevitable half term snivel kicked in(!)
Thur: Snivelling.
Fri: Snivelling.
Sat: snivelling.
Sun: 50min hilly bike ride so see if snivelling had passed, it had!

Not a great week, but Glentree with our lads at the beginning of the week was great. Diet went a little, as it always does when I'm feeling ill, but over it now so looking forward to getting stuck in again this week.
Eagle River - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Jesus Jake, that's a massive tick list.
Eagle River - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

Goal: 7c by April 2013

Mon: Malham with Nomics, most stuff wet again so did laps on consenting, Free and even easier and personal services.

Thurs: routes indoors, worked two 7c's at Stockport, probably going to focus on the white leading ladder one. Had sore forearms the next day so must've been putting some effort in.

Sun: Routes indoors, some more goes on the white 7c, feels close but didn't get it today. Finished by climbing the easiest 7a+ I've ever been on. Good route though.

At the moment we're not getting the continuous dry weather Malham needs to dry out so I may have to switch to some outdoor bouldering to get on some real rock for the time being.
Sankey - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Loads of weeks to report (a month!). Been up and down with a week lost to a bad cold, and some general slackness. However, had a week in the Frankenjura admist this, managed to red-point a VII+ (VII on UKC but VII+ elsewhere and was at least tough 6b+ as far as we could would be my hardest lead of the year)

T: Matrix
W: 9 km Exercise Bike
S: 10 mile walk
S: Bell Hagg bouldering

M: Ill
S: Travel to Germany
S: Wolfenstein - warm ups and failed to red point a VI+

M: Weissenstein - onsight mileage up to VI
T: Soranger Wand - RP a VI and VI+ (tough)
W: Soranger Wand - Start working the VII+ numerous failed leads
T: Weissenstein - onsight mileage up to VI
F: Soranger Wand - Warmed up on TR VIII- and a VII, then lead the VII+ 1st go after getting drawers in
S: Soranger Wand - Worked another (easier) VII+ to a clean top rope (0 degrees C, 3 inches of snow!)
S: Home

M-S Nothing, overcome by clock change apathy...
S: Foundry - decent session on half of level 1 cicuit then working level 2 probs

STG: Frankenjura some grade VII's DONE

MTG: Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks

LTG: Font 7a - want to get on some traverses at this grade at Churnet
+ 7a Sport RP
AJM - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

> Siurana or Rodellar....??? What do people think? Seems I could go to either.

My vote for Christmas would be Siurana and Margalef.

I've based this on 2 main facts, rather than on my own experience of either crag (which is about 4 days at each):
- I know a number of people who have done Siurana and Margalef at Christmas. It's been cold but ok.
- I remember Alex telling me on his road trip that he was off to Rodellar in late April on the basis that he had heard that the tufas had dried out. This leads me to think that over December the tufas will be wet. The blocky stuff like El Delfin will probably be ok but tufas could be pretty minging.

That's my 2c...
AJM - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Effort Jake!
AJM - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

> Didn't feel great but managed to campus between two Beastmakers on the shallow monos.

Jesus wept Dan! Most impressive pure training feat I've read about on FC for a little while...

If I had that sort of pocket strength I'd get my power endurance up to scratch and then crush the hell out of some 8s in Margalef/Frankenjura.

Impressed... My own strength improvements fade in comparison.
NMN - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
(High Peak Marathon?)

M - 7.03m road run, 157ft.
T - 4.07m road run, 36ft.
W - 6.00m trail run, 698ft.
T - on holiday.
F - a bit of swimming (on holiday).
S - on holiday.
S - afternoon: 1.82m walk, 903ft; - evening: 7.34m road run, 216ft.

AJM - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

> AJM – Sounds like a good week. Well done with strength/power milestones. Gogarth always feels a little bit scary doesn’t it.

I don't find the rest of Gogarth too bad, but the routes I have done in Red Wall and Mousetrap Zawn have been pretty intense experiences, big atmosphere, slow climbing due to checking the rock and shoving in gear wherever possible, and generally feeling pretty drained by the time you top out!

Indoor/training priorities
  • Strength/aerocap/ancap phase
  • Rolling average weight/body fat - ?

<STG> - remainder of 2012
  • Prepare for Xmas trip
  • Keep on plugging with the E3s
  • Tick some more of the 8a pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • Try to do all moves and some key links on RHM (all moves done; links of ground to undercut, hold after undercut (clip in already) to lip, lip to chains)

<MTG> - 2012 <DONE>
  • Complete 7c+ pyramid (currently completed 11/8 x 7b, 4/4 x 7b+, 3/2 x 7c, 1/1 x 7c+) <DONE>
  • 20 x 7as/E2s or above in good style [completed: 5x 7a onsight, 1x 7a+ flash, 1x 7a+ onsight, 10 x E2 onsight, 1 x E2 flash-ish, 5 x E3 onsight, 1 x E3 ground-up] <DONE>
  • 7a+ onsight <DONE>

  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
  • E4 onsight
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags

  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Big fingerboard session. Good progress. The pinches are coming along well. Managed to just about do 4-finger rail half crimp and slopy pocket offset hangs. Plenty of other stuff too.
T: Brean Down. 6c to warm up. Did Chepito, a 7a, first go - had fallen off the onsight some time over the winter, good for it to feel easy this time. Got onto Chulilla, dogged it to remember the moves, had a redpoint, got up to the last hard move. Then another team were on it so I decided to have my onsight go on Roof of Inequity (7a+), had a decent go but fell off the crux at the top. Had a redpoint but hadn't worked the sequence well enough so fell off the crux again. Good day.
W: Rest
T: TCA. Decent session, got a bunch more blacks, and spent a lot of time on the Mothership, got some 6Cs and tried some hard moves on some harder stuff.
F: Warehouse. Upped the ancap intensity a little bit and managed to do 10 reps with 2 failures. Did some aerocap too, couple of sets of 2 laps. Feeling fit, can do 2 laps with minimal/no need to shake out now. Got on the fingerboard and managed some really good progress. Some YYFYs...! Somehow have developed the ability to hold a one-arm lock on my dominant (left) hand at full and at 90 on the biggest hold on the beastmaker. Can't quite do it on the right hand though. And, more impressive yet, I managed to hang the slopy pockets!!! Admittedly for like 3 seconds, but still, I had doubts I'd ever be able to do that... Still can't hang the monos, but can feel I'm starting to get there.
S: Got outvoted in Peak bouldering day trip, ended up doing a short board session instead. Did some hard moves, but not that many of them.
S: Creation, Birmingham. Did a whole bunch of easier routes. Had an onsight go on a 7b, but fell off the start of the crux. Dogged to the top. Also dogged a 7b+ and had 3 redpoints. Gradually improved tactics and clips and managed to cross the 10 feet or so of near-horizontal roof (barrel, so starts fully horizontal) and get up into the crux on the shallower angle (30 or so?) section did it in 2 overlapping sections. Very pleased - never really tried to get on hard routes indoors, so good to feel I could maybe do the 7b in a few more goes and the 7b+ in another session or two (or three!) - given I'm on a strength phase at the moment I'll take that as p-e maintenance...!

So yeah, no great shakes outside, but I'm very pleased with the fingerboard progress, and the indoor routes achievements. Slopy pocket hangs, I mean wtf?! And one-arm locks out of the blue is quite nice too. And being able to make impressions on mid-7s routes despite not being in a pe phase bodes well too.

Maybe one more week of strength, then starting to move into some proper power endurance training before Turkey. Going to start monitoring weight more closely then too - I know I'm somewhere in the 72-73kg range right now, so going to try and drive it down towards the 70-71kg region.
pebbles - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: ooh, thats interesting advice, i'v always assumed training tired to be a bad thing to be avoided if poss. but i guess on a trip I would often climb tired after a heavy day before...

1)monday. bouldering. new circuits set for autumn so did all the pinks and yellows then got cracking on the blue (intermediates)got about half the blues ticked then started running into the harder ones and failing...aiming to get at least one of those this week.
2) tuesday. Routes. came up with cunning plan to focus on overhangs and steep stuff to get strong, then was lured onto some technical TR slabs! which were in fact very hard work - crimpy and slopy, so still got well worked forearms. Must focus on the overhanging stuff this tues though. have decided not to worry about doing things cleanly if that gets in the way of actually getting onto the steepness.
3)weds. core exercises.
4)thurs one hr 30 mins bouldering, lots of dynamic thuggy stuff, then 30 mins traversing - started doing circuit wall then moved onto traversing central pillar till my fingers uncurled.
5)friday. nowt.
6) outdoor bouldering in cold crisp sunshine, yay, - max 5+, was being a bit wimpy about the height as only one pad to fall on, but worked quite hard, was exhausted when got home
7) sunday. very achy shoulder still so decided a rest day in order.
goals for coming week: embrace the overhangingness ;-D
mrchewy - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Nice work on the diet front - hard to not have a carb binge now and again, let alone all week.

My first onsight F6a lead - outdoors that is, Surprise Surprise in Dinorwig.

Weight 78.9kg
Bodyfat 23.9kg The lowest I've got to so far!

STG - That V3 - DONE!
MTG - Lead 6a by xmas - DONE!
LTG - Lead 6b by summer '13. Gonna try and do this this month, indoors.

M - Boulder room but no power in arms or legs after Sunday, so just did attempts at 4x4s until I really couldn't manage another problem.
T - Rest and early night.
W - Routes. Did 16 on top rope including flashing a 6a and getting to the top of a 6a+ after a few falls on the crux trying to do it how others do. Learning I need to go for things how I first 'see' the climb, stronger and better climbers don't always offer the best advice for me. So went high with my right foot and got to the top. Pleased with this as it has crimpy, marginal holds for me.
T - Worked late.
F - Drove to Wales after work for the club AGM and dinner weekend. Got on the beer and whisky and stumbled to bed at 4am.
S - Above the Rails, Dinorwig. Onsighted a 5, 6a and top roped a 6a+ with just one fall low down. The 6a felt okay, just a matter of trusting the left foot on the crux. Wouldn't dared have tried to lead the 6a+ but proud I kept going. I'd have given up in the spring, just dug deep and kept going. I bloody love slate! The club dinner, so got well drunk.
S - Bus Stop Quarry. Led a 5a I couldn't manage in the summer, then onsighted a 4, top roped the 4 next to it. Onsighted a 5a, then top roped a 6a called mini Bus Stop that I should have led but the rope was already up. Tough, Chris struggled but it seemed to suit me.

Another week were I've made some good gains, actually got on a rope and it was terrific to go back to the quarries and climb half decently. Chris did his first E1 too, Seams the Same. That was the sole reason for going there, so I'm proper happy at the 6a onsight as the only reason I tried it was Chris had absent mindedly pulled the rope through the draws. Didn't second Seams the Same as want to save it for a lead myself but belayed him up and let Rachel get on the rope instead.

Totally psyched at the minute. My mate Joe won UCT sportsperson in Cape Town, only the second climber to do so. He's second in the 8a trad rankings, trads 8b+ but all the reports talk about a new 800m winter route in the Atlas mountains - we soloed it together back in January. It brought home what an amazing year it's been really, maybe the best of my life and that's something to say when you're 47.

Will change my goals when I get that 6b lead on the comp wall at Pinnacle.

Sorry for droning on - bit excited at the minute, not just with my stuff but Chris, Joe's and everyone else's. Amazing.
Keendan - on 04 Nov 2012
In reply to Kevster:

Procrastinate I did! Pretty awkward route.

It's good to have met another poster.
grubes - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
nothing last week
yesterday got out to encantadas. tried to finish a route in the 6b-6c range (depends where you look) I tried last year to warm up. stupid humidity. Greased out of a wet pocket just below the crux. did the crux fell out of another wet pocket. climbed to the top. clipped chains stripped it.
Started raining went back to the olive branch pissed off. Forcast for more rain today and even more tomorrow

Low psyche ,,, This is not what I signed up for!
biscuit - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to grubes:

I am on my way now - psyche will be delivered.

We'll get up to desplo. Hopefully with the crags facing different ways there we'll find a dry face or 2 to play on.

See you soon.

Rollo - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Time for a goal review!

Get fit again - TICK (ish- fitness is relative)
Climb (3 times per week) - TICK
Get outdoors (climbing, walking, cycling) - TICK

Get back to HVS and 6b - in shape to but not done outside yet
Run 32mi for my mates 32nd b'day - Not going to happen
Get out for a big weekend walk with wild camping - TICK

Crack into the E-grades
Do some Scottish winter stuff - one weekend soon??!

M- 45min: w/u jog w. 4xhill sprints, 3 laps of obstacle course
Bouldering, Biscuit. Comp wall up to V2 + 6a+ & 6b+ circuits
T- 97min bike to work. Tired
T- Climbing, Castle, up to 6c. Nailed the overhanging 6b+
F- 75min MTB before Wedding. Aston Hill trails
S- On the barge
S- On the barge
Nomics4sale - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. Stay cool, wish I could!

STG: V6 tick at boulderuk OR 7a at a wall OR E1 outdoors OR boulder outdoors goal TBC
MTG: goal TBC for CatalunyaTBC in March
LTG: E1s next Summer and look at E2, RP 7b, flash (a soft) 7a.

Mon: Malham with Eagle River. TRed Consenting Adults and Free and Even Easier
Tues: nowt
Wed: BoulderUK, new problems, flashed 2 x V5 and worked one other. Fairly soft set downstairs and mega soft set upstairs.
Thurs: 4.5 mile night fell run with the Bowland runners.
Fr: Went and had a look at Caley but it was wet so went to Almscliffe instead which was windy. Watched the hard climbers I was with get up some hard stuff while I moaned about the cold.
Sat: SPA course
Sun: SPA course

Bollox week really redeemed only by the session at Malham. I need to get motivated so I've set some goals the main one being to try to tick a V6 at boulderUK. I can flash some V5s so in theory a worked V6 should be doable. I've not been on many but the ones I've tried all feel too hard to even work. Gonna have a proper go at a few this week see if I think I can get one. The outdoor goals are a bit aspriational - as if! But it would be good to start some grit bouldering and get a feel for what I should be aiming for. So far I'm a bit shit at it.
mattrm - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks as always Dan. Fair enough, it was a very busy week workwise and I'm really charging hard to get the house finished. A more accurate diary might be:

M - W - DIY every evening
T - Preparing kit
F - Driving to the Howgills

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (restarted diet)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no progress)
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 12st 2lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 7lbs (not weighed)

M - T - Rest
W - Core workout
T - DIY (inc tip visit)
F - DIY & Core workout

Bit better this week. Re-started the diet. Not done well with it, but at least it's started. Also started back with the core exercise. Seriously planning on getting down the wall this week. But still got lots of DIY to go. Most of the painting is done now. But have to lay new flooring in the dining room and there's still a 101 little jobs to finish off.
oddtoast on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Seems like everyone's getting lots done at the moment - I'm glad I started posting on here as it motivates me seeing what everyone else does.

Though might as well just jump in and try running while am feeling motivated. Major attraction is being able to come in the door, get changed, go out for half an hour and be back without transport faf or cost. I'm glad it's dark, would be far more self conscious in the daylight.

Went out on halloween in the rain for first go, warmed up then alternated a minute walking with a minute running. Really enjoyed, so went and got myself some trainers at the weekend and downloaded first couch to 5k podcast (C25k) - a 9 week structured beginner's thing to get you from can't run at all to 5k/30mins at a time.

I like how at the end of the podcast you're told how many minutes you ran in total in amongst the walking, so will post that on here so I can see myself improve. Will try not to be embarassed by it, everyone has to start somewhere

T- Routes at harrogate, finally made the move up from the yellow 5+ overhang after several goes (thanks for the catches pebbles!) - aim now is to get up it cleanly. Redid some 5+ and 6a leads plus had fun messing about trying to toprope silly-hard stuff.
W- Trial run/walk - 30 mins
T- No climbing as went to a work leaving do. When I skip a regular group session I end up not making it up later in the week and missing out which is a pain.
S- C25k Week1.1 Run/walk - 30 mins (inc 8mins running)
pebbles - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to oddtoast: right toasty one, I'll do a motivation deal with you. I need to get back into running to, so I'll do a deal with you to nag each other - I'm aiming for just once a week
pebbles - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale: almscliff windy and cold in novemember no shit sherlock. likewise caley green and wet. I know its a bit longer way from you, but scugdale is brilliant in winter - quick drying , doesnt take drainage and the wind tends to just blow over the top and it can be a real suntrap. Also brimham carpark boulders are often good in winter - reasonably quick drying and dont get too green
Nomics4sale - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to pebbles:

Oh right. I sort of knew Alsmcliff would be windy but it wasn't really my decision. Brimham and scugdale sound promising, thanks for that. Just about to email you....
Ian Bell - on 05 Nov 2012
Hi all

Back on it again for me.

F - bouldering WW. Short session (only c1 hour). Did a few of the easier problems. V busy as just re-set.
S - Biscuit factory. Did 12-15 of the blue (v2-v4) circuit and a few others. Spent a while working on a nice V5 slab.
S - Biscuit factory. Bit tired from the day before. Did a host of easier climbs and managed the V5. Skin / toes then died!

Happy with another V5 (even a soft biscuit factory one) although really I need to stop the slabs and get on the steep stuff. At least starting to feel like I know how to climb again, its just that i'm unfit!

Every weekend from now till xmas is now booked so little outside potential but have booked a week in malta between xmas and new year.
Alex@home - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

thanks dan. i'm starting to feel like i'm getting a bit of fitness back and it's only november. bodes well for next spring.
last week was another pretty good one:

sun - 8 mile fairly flat trail run before breakfast in about 1hr 7 mins
mon - circuits at edge - working on the 6c circuit did 2 sets of 7 circuits with 1 min rest between each then long rest between sets. each circuit got round on first go but then progressively worse on each. never mind - there's a target to beat
tue - 7 mile mostly road run with few short hills in 53 mins
wed - nothing - apart from try out new scales
thu - bouldering at marple, round 2 of bouldering ladder, did about 65 problems from easy up to about v4
fri - went for run to try out new watch. tank was empty - managed about 4 miles with about 600ft climbing in about 37 mins
sat - nothing (by which i mean 5 hours looking after children in fkn ikea. i was ready to kill by the end)

weigh-in results:
weight - 11st 9lbs - less than i expected so maybe the target of 11 1/2 stone isn't challenging enough?
bf - 11.9% pretty good, but will try to get it down to 11%

not done any weights or core for few weeks so should probably try for a session this week
Just Tintin - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

I like the idea of being guilted into better training by collective motivation. Shout at me when I'm rubbish!

STG: Consolidate HS/VS, 6b and V2
MTG: Working HVS/E1, 6b+ and V3
LTG: Hard to say - have been moving quickly through on some things, and others are stuck so will reassess!
Other things: More useful training (ie not just what I feel like), work on endurance and finger strength, get on more rock, warm up and stretch!

M: - (jetlag daze...)
T: Wall: lead/bouldering mixed session
W: Coached kids at Wall. Then bouldering circuit - endurance.
Th: 5mile run
F: -
S: Women's Climbing Symposium: classes on footwork and nasty holds.
S: Bouldering. Wall very busy. Working V2s and V3s. (Onsighted a V2... Therefore it wasn't a V2.)
mattrm - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to oddtoast:

Don't worry about the modest goals, just look at me, I'm barely ticking over and really not doing much. The Couch to 5k plan is good. I started running for the same reasons, i.e. cause it's an easy way to keep fit in the least amount of time. I'm now running ultra marathons (well just one so far, but I'm planning on doing 3 next year). You might get hooked!
pebbles - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to mattrm: right! downloaded! I used to run once a week, but stopped for a year after an injury and havnt got going again - so I'm going to do this
biscuit - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers for the post Dan. Campussing on the mono's ? That's insane - and very accurate too.

Quietish week really but i got all my goals except for climbing due to pants weather.

M - Run 30 mins nothing else
T - Board ( 2 sets 4x4 ) inc repeater warm ups. core 175 reps.
W - Same again no core but a 30 min run
T - Fingerboard only due to rain. 30 min run
F - Board ( 1 set of 4x4 ) with no repeaters. 30 min run
S - Bouldering
S - Nothing

Spoilt things a bit with getting smashed on Friday and Sat night.

BF has come down from 13.5% to 12.5%. I really need to get back on top of this and start eating/running properly again.

Made progress on fingerboard. i am wanting to get a real base of repeaters behind me and then after Xmas i'm going to start on maximal work.

Also made progress on the board. Systems work is a bit boring but can be done very quickly and is really easy to gauge if you're making improvements.

Just need it to stop raining now.

Goals for this week;

Climb Mon/Tue and possibly Wed with Grubes. Tick a 7b. Looking like Gros Rouge if it ever stops raining.

3 or 4 board sessions ( depending on how many times i get out )

4 x core 175 ( this needs more intensity soon )

4 x run 30 mins

Bouldering was an easy session but trying to put into practice the info i got from Nik Jennings the other week. Much more proactive use of feet needed. Tried it today when i'd done a 7a i got back on it on a top rope and really thought about applying force and power through my feet all the time. It felt very different and obviously well worth pursuing.
biscuit - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Joughton:

Amazing tick list Jake, really strong on-sighting.
biscuit - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to mrchewy:

Keep the psyche high and keep it going, you're making really good progress.
JayK - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to Biscuit/Grubes:

Are you at the olive branch? Don't suppose there's a couple of guys there called Ed and Dave are there? I'm sure they're climbing over there at the moment.
mrchewy - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to biscuit: Gonna be hard to lose the psyche - too many positive people around me now and that includes everyone on here.

I must admit, it's a bit rubbish living so far away from a crag and I'm only just starting to realise this. I can see why you live where you do! Hope you and grubes get plenty done...
Keendan - on 05 Nov 2012
In reply to pebbles:
> (In reply to mattrm) right! downloaded! I used to run once a week, but stopped for a year after an injury and havnt got going again - so I'm going to do this

Good to hear!
annak on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan - and well done on the not bingeing.
Also apologies for late post, been super busy this weekend.

M: gym - upper body press plus front squats

Tu: climbing @ Westway - great session, heaps of leading in advance of my holiday to Spain

W: run - 5 miles in 41:18, which very much made my day

Th: bouldering @ Arch - was having fun up until the point that I sub-luxed my shoulder for the nth time (and after having posted on ukc the other day about how I thought I'd fixed it with stronger triceps). Pretty sore, so cancelled climbing plans for the rest of the week to rest up.

F: gym - lower body push

S: played 2.8 hours later: ran around the Isle of Dogs attempting to not get eaten by zombies. Very silly fun; lots of sprinting.

Su: rest day
biscuit - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

I'm just visiting and due to the crap weather there's no playing out today.

I'll ask Luke.
seankenny - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for the stats Daniel.

Well, this is my first Fit Club entry since August - I've been climbing in the States for ten weeks so have plenty to update.

For starters, I've just had a brilliant trip, visiting so many amazing places and doing a lot of great climbing. It roughly worked out like this:

Arrive LA, get sorted, go to Tuolomne Meadows and climb some routes with assorted North Americans.

Meet Nick from Exeter, climb together for three weeks in Tuolomne, Tahoe, Yosemite and Mammoth.

Climb some more in Yosemite, mostly with Lee from Ringwood.

Get sick, leave the Valley, get better, go to Joshua Tree.

Nearly three weeks climbing in Josh.

Come home. Brrrrrrr!

My aim was to climb 5.10d and El Cap. The big disappointment of the trip was not only not to climb El Cap, but not to get on a wall at all. I was going well and probably one "training" route off doing Half Dome when I got sick in the Valley. When I got better I struggled to find a suitable partner and was finding the Valley a fairly oppressive place to be... so I abandoned the idea for this year and went cragging in the desert instead. A big shame, but with the knowledge I've gained, even just in terms of suitable training, I could probably do one in a three week trip. Never say never! Big thing learned: the right partner is essential for these kinds of routes. Going out and doing a wall with a random person is a gamble. It didn't pay off this time, but it could.

I didn't climb a 10d either! Well, I did up to 11a on bolts and 10c on gear, but even better than ticking the right number was the fact I got pretty solid on trad climbing for the first time in years, and learned to climb Californian granite (a bit). I feel this was my best achievement. Their rock is so far off from the climbing in Europe that you take a beating at first - I remember struggling on a 5.7 crack in my first week, nearly backing off it, and wondering if I knew how to climb cracks at all! And that was in Tuolomne. Yosemite was even more of a slapdown. I just couldn't do it at first.

Naturally this is pretty much par for the course - I saw a Spanish 8a climber fall off a 10b crack - and by the end of the trip I was confidently climbing much harder and moving much better, having got used to the kind of full-body movements that characterise West Coast granite climbing. One route at Josh was our warm-up, it involved some tricky moves with flared jams and stemming, and had I tried it when I first arrived I would have found it desperate. But when fully in the J-Tree groove it was definitive 5.8 and really very pleasant. I found I rarely got pumped forearms (not at my lowly level) but frequently finished a pitch panting and completely out of breath!

Other things I learned:
Camalots rock.
Ditto tape gloves.
Areas you've never heard of can be really excellent.
Have a back up itinerary in case the weather plays tricks with your plans.
The animals really will eat all your food if you're not careful. And even if they don't... well once a coyote has investigated your spaghetti, it's done for.
Cruising around LA in an SUV, listening to Jay-Z, is pretty cool.

Overall I did about 85 routes, the vast majority of them trad, ranging from 30ft to 13 pitches. Highlights were:

West Face of Daff Dome, Tuolomne.
Hermaphrodite Flake, Stately Pleasure Dome, Tuolomne.
Direct NW Face of Lembert Dome, Tuolomne.
Power Lust, Lover's Leap, Tahoe.
Black Leather, Dike Wall, Mammoth.
Sons of Liberty, Patricia Bowl, Mammoth.
Bishop's Terrace, Church Bowl, Yosemite.
East Buttress of El Cap, Yosemite.
Fisticuffs, Real Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree.
Bird of Fire, Isles in the Sky, Joshua Tree.
Illusion Dweller, Real Hidden Valley, Joshua Tree.

Over this week I'll be putting pictures up both here and on my blog, will put some links up when I do.

I have some clear ideas about the climbing I want to do in 2013, but haven't sorted out any short/medium term goals or training yet. It's just too soon, plus one of my elbows feels a bit sore. It'll probably be just running and yoga for a few weeks.

One final word: if you're ever thinking about taking some time off for a proper extended climbing trip - do it! Do it as soon as you can! You won't regret it, I promise you.
Si dH - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to seankenny:
Sounds amazing Sean, you would not believe how jealous I am. A trad roadtrip round the US would be top of my list for climbing trips if I won the lottery tomorrow and didnt have to go to work!
seankenny - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Just do it man. Rent out your house. Flog your car. Save some cash, and go for it. You'll miss the security for, oh, about five minutes as you wait for the plane.

Once you pull into the parking lot at Camp 4 or the Meadows or Red Rocks you'll have a shit-eating grin that will take weeks to subside.
AJM - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Sounds ace mate. I'm already looking forwards to the European roadtrip we have in the pipeline - maybe the one after will be the states...
seankenny - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to AJM:

Cool! What are you planning?
AJM - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Camper van conversion (coming soon!), then round Europe in it for a while - hit up Spain and France and stuff in the Winter/Spring to do some awesome sport and get really fit, then hit the Dolomites, Alps, Ratikon/Grimsel/Wendenstock/etc areas etc to put the fitness to use on the bigger stuff, then who knows, maybe back onto the sport come Autumn, see how it goes really.
mrchewy - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to seankenny: Sounds great - shame about El Cap but that's now the perfect excuse to go back!
seankenny - on 06 Nov 2012
In reply to AJM:

Sounds like an awesome trip. Just don't get injured!
Ali - on 08 Nov 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Wow, sounds like some serious sending and training going on at the moment - nice work guys

Nothing much to report for me - little exercise and lots of eating :oS

M - nothing
T - v light gym session and swim (no weights)
W - nothing - work leaving do thing
T - nothing - packing for Sweden
F /S / S - long weekend in Stockholm - did a fair bit of walking but only managed one short session in the hotel gym (10min cross trainer, 5 min row, 5 min run, few core exercises). Combined with far too many hot chocolates and cinnamon buns I have definitely put on weight and got my sweet tooth back, which I'm going to have to try and wean myself off again!

Had a week and a half off climbing which has helped the aches and pains a bit. Wrist still feeling weak when I bouldered last night, but taped it up and still managed to pull on stuff and its not feeling too much worse today. Not really sure what to do about it in terms of a longer term fix :oS

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