/ UKC Fit Club Week 326

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grubes - on 16 Jun 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (325) thread:

Eagle River - if your strugling for stamina maybe a wall session? or try a 4x4 session at Craig y Longridge
AJM - WEll done on the second E4 seems like unempolyment is good for you
Quiddity - nice progress on the project next session
IainRUK - Congrats again and good luck with the race
Jamming Dodger - nice mileage on the bike
well done on the E3 tick
mbh - swimming is low impact so good for the knees but if you dont enjoy it not much point?
Biscuit - get the 7a done?
Si dH - congrats on the aniversary. Now make up for the eating and drinking!
Nick Russell - Congrats on your first E4
Mattrm - good effort on the 6b
NMN - wow busy week
Maria85 - how was the run?
Needkraken - did you get in your sessions this week?
Northernclamberer - did you enjoy your visit to the grit
Joughton - how did the comp go?
Porkpiegirl - the routes coming together then
Stevemarkperry - Sorry I only realise last week you are the same person as steve perry (pezz).
Nomics4sale - congrats with the E1. you are building alot of E points at the moment.
Sankey - Congrats on Highway
Jimmykay - good luck with the project
C Chestwig - well done on getting first repeat of kidblock/babyblock with hold loss
ALi - well done on space race and first 7b+
Leon - nice week very busy
Curious Yellow - Congrats on SS
Useful - sounds like you 7y/o will be burning you off before too long
Daniel Heath -you missed a BOOM! off the end of that. Two people sleeping in a ford KA ... grim! but 77 E points in a week is sick.

Congrats to Dan H and AJM for excellent weeks of rediculous levels of climbing. Also congrats to ALi and Nick russell for grade push
AJM - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers grubes. A lot quieter a week for me this week on the climbing front - I had a family wedding in Italy Sat-Tues, and my parents have been visiting us this weekend, so I've had a chance to have a rest and let my skin recover a bit!

Wednesday - after helping out with some of the rock clearance stuff at Sea Walls, it started raining so went to TCA. Had the usual "first wall session blues" - wandered round for ages, took me a long time to get going, but by the end the power had started to come back and I got a few nice problems done. Not a world shattering session but a necessary one after a long break from indoors.

Thursday - Cheddar. Windy! Repeated a 6b to get going, then retroflash on Shakin Like a Leaf, 7a, to get clips in for my friend who then flashed it, she was chuffed with that. Then put the clips in Shangri-La, a baby 7b+. I'd tried it years ago but could only really remember that I'd done all the moves, no idea how though. Managed to get a good sequence sorted, short bouldery burly section on some undercuts leading to some sidepulls where I had some nice twist in action going on. Ticked it next go. 7b+ effectively second go is a nice one to have, even if it is probably a softie. Then out some clips in Still Waters Run Deep for my friend, took a lob when I couldn't quite clip the post crux bolt (better extended). Sat around a bit then retro-redpointed it a bit messily to reclaim clips. I then switched partners and flashed a 6a and rather embarrassingly fell off a 6b, short burly crux over a roof and I just read it wrong and had no power left in the tank by that point either.

So, a 7a retroflash, 7b retro redpoint and 7b+ redpoint in a day plus a bit of other mileage, good to get another tick on the pyramid done and the 7s were all good routes.

Hopefully a fuller week next week, got more climbing planned. No job yet but way more of them out there than I had anticipated, have applications in all over the shop at the moment. Have to wait and see though because I have a suspicion there might be a huge amount of competition for them so not really getting my hopes up too much yet, and worst case is I just keep on climbing after all
AJM - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH, Joughton and any other High Tor aficionados on the thread:

Would be interested in a bit of high level beta on any of the E3s and E4s you've done there (or at Chee Tor for that matter) - no detail really but just an idea of the prang potential (and how much prang potential it feels like there is, if the two are different and whether any of them are unsuitable for swinging leads on with an E2 leader who has done the odd E3 on a good day (ie 2 genuine E3 pitches). Looking like I'm there for a few days late on in the week, and whilst I don't mind a bit of a spicy feel I'm not mega keen on actual injury potential if I can help it.
mattrm - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing fit club. Much appreciated.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st
3 core/yoga, 1 climb, 1 run, eat well, fingerboard (2/3, no, yes, okish, no) - same goals for next week

Weight - 11st 11lbs (1lbs gain)

M - T - Lazy
W - 1.5h yoga
T - 5k run
F - 30m yoga & core
S - Visit Grandad
S - Fell run (not yet, but that's the plan)

Didn't go climbing as my left shoulder is feeling iffy. Not sure it's a climbing issue, it's more related to DIY and spending 8 hours a day in front of a PC. Bit of a family weekend so far, went to see my Grandad yesterday and it's the in-laws today. Planning on doing a short fell run later on. Will aim to get out climbing next week, but it will probably just be a 'easy' session.
JBO on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

> Joughton - how did the comp go?

I GOT SECOND!!!:D MEGA PSYCHED, totally smashes my goal of a top six finish in a national comp. First time I've been on a podium so it felt good. Also feeling very smug after only training two or three times a week over exam period to still perform well, I was so much weaker than the other competitors but a combination of fluke, tenacity and not being a thug seemed to pay off. I can't even be disappointed with second, the winner got a clear hold ahead of me on both the hardest problem and the hardest route, called Ellis Butler-Barker (he appears in UKC news sometimes) some mega-beast who's climbed 8b outside so I can't complain.

Tuesday - Last minute attempt to get strong bouldering at Rockover, flashed some of the V5-7 circuit and failed on lots of hard stuff, good session.

Route 1 - Nat Berry demoed and said it was about 6c or something. Easy jugs to start with then a slightly techy finish up the vertical wall. Almost everyone flashed it.
Boulder 1 - V4, pretty strenous on good pinches, hardest move was the first one, a very bunched up sit-start.
Boulder 2 - I was one of only three people to flash this, it was the perfect problem for me. Slapping between really poor side-pull slopers, but I could make it dead easy with loads of dodgy beta (drop knees and heel-hooks) that no one else seemed to want to use. V6 probably.
Route 2 - horrible route, really awkward hugging up this big steep arete to a nose grinding mantel move, everyone was very sketchy! Most people topped this too but a few slipped off. 7aish.
Boulder 3 - really nasty problem, just too powerful for me! Started with a nasty two finger crimp and I used up all of my three attempts falling a few holds from the top. This was flashed by two in my group, and about a third of the competitors got further so I slipped down a fair way from being joint first.
Route 3 - worked out perfectly doing the route last because it meant it was all to play for, and the longest, hardest route was always going to be my forte. At this time I was about sixth but the strongest boulderers were continually dropping off around the halfway point. I was fourth from last to try it, and so far no one had topped it. The best attempt had been three holds from the top by some one who'd done less well on the bouldering, and the strongest boulderer had made it about six holds from the top. I didn't know any of this at the time, but I had a good chance of pushing into first place. It was a very technical, sustained route, without a single proper rest, so you only get a quick flick shake-out between moves. The feet were also really thin, so everyone over gripped because it seemed easy to slip off - lots of people already had. I climbed pretty steadily past the roof, staying chilled and breathing well, then the pump started about halfway up. I knew I wouldn't be able to shake out at all, so I just started sprinting up the crimps for the top. I couldn't make the last clip because I was too pumped to let go for that long, so I ran it out and fell three moves from the top. I lowered off fuming because I thought I hadn't done enough to get a podium place which I was really hoping for, but I'd actually managed to move up into first. When I saw Ellis get one move further, I was actually seeing first place run away but I didn't care at the time because I didn't realise I was second until my friend came running up to tell me! I didn't believe him but I was very excited when I saw the scoreboard. I won a DMM harness of my choice which is actually a decent prize for once!

So yeah, sorry for the long post but I'm just really pleased with myself for getting away with being so weak! There were a full 32 people who qualified in my group too so I beat a pretty large group. I should also say that British team members aren't allowed in the Youth Climbing Series (to give punters like me a shot!) so I'm not actually second best in Britain, but I think there's only two or three team members in Youth A at the moment so I'm looking at being fifthish overall for leading.

Cheers, Jake
JBO on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Flaky Wall doesn't have any big fall potential if you're careful with how you protect it. All the gear is excellent, especially by the crux(s). Let me know if you want any more specific beta than that, it's etched in my brain pretty thoroughly!

Lyme Cryme might be pushing it a bit of your second hasn't led much E3 as I think the second pitch would probably be E3 in it's own right, despite only being given 5b in the guide. Perseus would be a good one to do at E3 though as a good stepping stone to the E4s, particularly if you make the start more eliminate. Also it's only one (very long) pitch so you don't need to worry about your second.

Also have you considered Stoney? I know it's a bit polished but Bitterfingers and Wee Doris both provide brilliant, well protected E4s which feel around the 6c/7a mark. Also the indirect start to Bubbles Wall is a fun, well protected E3 5c. If you're feeling strong and bold the direct gives an E4 6b which is essentially a high ball V4 start, though it should be fine with a couple of mats. Hope that helps with anything!

AJM - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Cheers Jake, and well done on the comp!

Lyme crime - I seem to remember you saying it was/felt a bit sketchy - is that on the crux or on easier bits?

PErseus looks good.

I quite fancy Scoop Wall at stoney, had been wondering about something harder too so will bear your recommendations in mind. Have you done jasper and the stuff round there?
Keendan - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Excellent report Jake. Massive congratulations on 2nd.
Nick Russell on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes, as I said before it's a good psychological barrier to break even if the route was a soft touch!

This week:
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Core
Wednesday - Fingerboard (+ abortive attempt at a run, made a decent warm-up for the fingerboard)
Thursday - Rest
Friday - Climbing in Avon gorge. Exterminating Angel is a great route that deserves more traffic. Did one of the newly-bolted routes in the New Quarry too. Not sure what I think about the new bolts, but it is convenient when rain is forecast later and you might need to make a quick getaway.
Saturday - Core. (A short but beastly session, should have warmed up better)
Sunday - Indoor bouldering. (Worked on the fingery problems as my core and shoulders were pretty sore!)

So nothing really exciting in there. I realised how hard I must have been trying last weekend because of how tired I was at the start of the week. I'm very disappointed with the running though. Turns out that the 5km race last Saturday was enough to really flare up the shin splints (or I hadn't rested for quite long enough prior to last week). In any case, I'm going to give it a rest all of next week and break back into really, frustratingly slowly. Hopefully I can start enjoying it soon.

Goals (these have probably settled down a bit now)
Short term (~1 month) - training for Frankenjura
* Find opportunities to go sport climbing
* Keep up the finger strength with at least one fingerboard session/week
Medium term (this season)
* Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles
* Get on more E4s (especially those a bit higher in the grade)
* Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Longer term (probably not this season)
* Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
* Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
JBO on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Cheers, the crux is quite well protected by some big cams in a break, like a BD Camalot red/yellow, but there is a thin move which feels pretty tenuous with this little rusty coat hook thing... so you might be in for a big fall if that broke but you wouldn't hit the ground and the move is actually straightforward. I'd go for it to be honest, if you're good enough to onsight E4 you're good enough to do Lyme Cryme!

I've done Jasper at Electric Quarry, which is just really strenuous, felt about 6c which is pretty tough for E3 but it is tech 6a... also tried Cabbage Crack which is really well protected but desperate, had to frig it last year. Haven't tried it yet but Oliver looks like a better option, apparently it's brilliant.
Eagle River - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks luke, thinking of dropping down a few grades at Kilnsey for a couple of mid-week sessions to get some mileage in then getting back on Biological at the weekends.

Mon: Indoor bouldering in London - biscuit factory. Jesus, it was hot and busy in there. Don't envy those of you doing that on a regular basis! Tried most of the white V5-7 circuit. only failed on a couple. Mega-DOMS for two days afterwards (I don't boulder indoor very often!)

Thurs: Evening Kilnsey session. Tired and midge-infested session, got on dead calm, again because I want to try lots of different routes before settling on a project. it's a good route but hard boulder problem at the very top. Only had one go then thought I'd try for WYSIWYG in a session but failed to do that, turns out I was missing the hidden pocket for the 2nd-3rd bolt traverse left bit. Not sure it would've made THAT much of a difference but it's a good excuse. Good route though, nicely sustained.

Sun: Kilnsey. Back on biological need. I had all the excuses for a poor session so not surprised I had a stinker. Still, got from 4th bolt to finish so I've now done it in overlapping halves. Absolutely knackered now.

NorthernClamberer on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks Grubes!!!

Did I enjoy the grit? Damn right I did! I loved Low Many Easy Way once I had my grit head on. That traversey thing was just a bit silly really! Stewpot was great but NO WAY I'd want to lead it yet and getting stuck on that ledge on fluted columns trying to get Needraken's gear out was comedy! That was an awesome route too though. I had a fantastic day out.

Thank you Grubes and Needraken for lift and climbs.

Monday: Stressmatic
Tuesday: applying for another PhD
Wednesday: wall session with Ben from Shetland who shook his belay device at me when I wasn't moving fast enough!
7 leads and one top rope. Dead chuffed with lead on Orange Hexes as has loads of funky clipping positions and wasn't sure I'd still be able to do it. Got on scary yellow. Was much lest scared.
Thursday: packing
Friday: travelling
Saturday: Baildon Banks. A light session cos it rained and we got hungry.
Seconded 'Rip' - mate fannied about for some time!
Led Layback Crack. Was confused by these strange things called 'trees' and 'bushes' for anchors and protection.
Sunday: Micro Fit Club meet at Almscliffe.
Tried to lead Low Man Easy Way. Said 'it's all round, I don't like it'
Seconded it. Got the tricky move up to base of flake.
Seconded Fluted Columns
Led Low Man - totes loved it!!!!
Seconded Stewpot. Heart in my mouth as Needraken dispatched the trixy move. Loved the climb, had no desire to lead it yet!!! Said 'JAM? But I'm Scottish!' .
Lead pothole. Random!!!! And my wooly hat fell off.
So all in all a most splendid day out.

Next week - who knows, interview tomorrow. Hope to get out in the evenings or at the weekend. Another interview on 27th but 2 weeks on Skye and NE coast to look forward to mid July.

Think my goal for end of summer now to lead S and second as hard as I can with falling off but no crying!

And I'll definitely be back on grit one day.....
mbh - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

A very well done to Jake, who also writes extremely well.

My week seems mundane in comparison

M: 7.5m Great Flat Lode trail after work
T 5.0 m, woods, coast path
W 8.4 m, road
T 5.4 m, woods
F 5.0 m, trail/road. Awful run in rain, two big dogs out in the open, owners nowhere in sight, snarling at me.
S 13.3m + 2 km swim. Did the run at 7:59 pace, so would be (just) sub 1:45 for a HM. Fastest mile was the 10th, at 7:32. So what was I doing before that? Must pull finger out earlier on in future.
S 10.0 m + 1.6 km swim. Did first three at sub 7:30, including a 6:50 split.

54 m running ,1000 m ascent, 17 m at sub 8:00, only three of these sub 7:30.

The STG is 10 mpw at sub 7:30, so some way to go yet, but I am getting there. Have entered for a 32 m coast path event, (the RAT) but am on waiting list.
Banned User 77 - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton: Well done, nice report,.

Week started slowly, but quite a bit of quality, finished with a nice run tonight..

m: am: 3.5 miles steady. pm: 7 miles on trails, legs very tired.
t: lunch: 5.7 miles run. pm: 9 miles with 12 k at 6;30 pace or below
w: lunch: steady 3.5 mile run. pm: 12.5 miles trail run
t: lunch: 5.7 miles. pm: 7 miles, with 5 k on the treadmill at 5:30 min mile pace
f: 11 miles
s: afternoon: 4.7 mile trail run. pm: 11 mile road run
s: am: 12.6 miles trail run @ 6:16 pace. pm: easy 4 miles to the gym and foam roller work
mbh - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Holy sh*t Iain, 12.6 miles at 6:16! That is monstrous.
Banned User 77 - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to mbh: That included at least 1 mile steady.. on sandy trails.. my mate who I run with is aiming for 64:?? in Hamburg half marathon.. it was an easy run for him.. he's now paid a few hundred €€ just to turn up to races, then winnings.. so fairly much a full time pro runner.. tbf he works so hard at his running he deserves it.. but he is from a small African country, officially the highest country in the world I think.. Lesoatho.
Needkraken - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: =) thanks Grubes yea I've got out enough this week!

As nothernclamberer has already reported we had a great mini fit-club grit day today xD

Also nice work jake on the second place, you must be on cloud 9!

changing up the goals a bit
STG - boulder more 6a's , get more confident outdoors, lead S by choice , keep the psyche, second whatever my friends climb & lead every session I can
MTG - 6b sport, lead HS without screaming tooooooooo much , get psyche to lead routes I chose
LTG - to feel I can push myself on lead, be stronger, find routes I really want to do, make a wishlist by the end of the year

M: Band as usual, did 45 mins of marching drills so that counts as exercise!
T: Went to oxford being a goth, danced a lot so again more exercise =p
W: Indoor session, started the summer bouldering league at rokt with the aim of not taking it seriously but just doing each round if I end up indoors. Flashed 7 problems (which for me is ok in a first session) have a list of ones to try when I'm fresh
T: lazy
F: Mum in town so ended up taking her on a walk around the reservoir
S: Depot session, worked on the new woods (V3-6) didn't make a total hash of them and flashed 2! Felt good inside for the first time in quite a while which was great and a good ego boost =)
S: Almscliff with Northernclamberer for an introduction to grit! Led a D first with an awkward second move, then lead fluted columns which tested me a bit but went well, seconded Mary on the D once she got the hang of grit a bit better, led a 'HVD' that was pretty tricky with an bold move that I couldn't quite see how to protect properly so had to trust that I would breeze it on a top rope. Seconded up a last little VDiff and then decided that the pub was a good option xD

Overall I've actually felt pretty good this week and that I'm still improving, slowly but steadily and really getting to enjoy my first outdoor season =)
mbh - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

It's all very impressive and testament to the effect of training and hard work. Genetics aside, I wonder what role the social dynamics play in making so many Africans so good at running. I mean, altitude helps, but it can't just be that. Why aren't races also dominated by runners from Nepal, Mexico, or Bhutan?
Banned User 77 - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to mbh: I think that's spot on. I do think Genetics will be a factor but the other one is just the numbers running, but more importantly running well.. in Kenya a 2:08 marathoner is nothing special.. they have to keep putting the miles in. It'll be interesting to see how it changes because their dominance seems to be waning..

And the swedes once dominated distance running.. and they say that was down to a cohort of runners.. I think a huge factor is competition.. you get more good runners.. they feed off each other.. they actually say the same in football about Beckham, Scholes, Giggs et al in football.. they had a cohort coming through at Man U and being brilliant was not enough, they had to be great.. so they all put that extra 1-2% in..

We actually saw it in Wales mountain running the past 5 years.. in the males we suddenly had a battle for the red welsh vest.. so we'd all target selection.. dedicated training.. it went from a 1:20 run on wyddfa being acceptable to now a 1:13 run being the norm.. sub 70 the main aim.. its been a huge change driven by competition.. i was being selected of 1:21 runs.. yet now run 1:15 and don't get a vest, I think it's great. In the past runs of 1:23-1:25 weren't uncommon..

In comparison the women have had nothing and they almost offer out the vest.. and times never improve, if one woman beats 1:30 its a good run, well over 2 minutes a mile slower than the top welsh blokes, when 1 min/mile should be the maximum difference.

NMN - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.

Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.

M: - 4.08m treadmill, 0.4% (warm up / quick 5km / warm down).
T: - ill.
W: - Chatsworth routes (easy grades).
T: – nothing.
F: - 12.30m trail run, 2,811ft.
S: - 2.90m hills, 1,782ft.
S: - 3.02m hills, 1,770ft.
Ali - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton: Well done Jake! Awesome work - you must be pretty good at keeping cool under pressure?

Eagle River - sorry I couldn't make it down But Mondays is quiet compared to Wednesdays...hence why I find it hard to get a really decent session during the week!
Ali - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks grubes, and thanks to everyone for nice comments on last week's thread - been so busy this week haven't had a chance to post!

Not such a successful week this week!

M - rest
T - Helped at a park race event so didn't get to run - had a bit of a jog round picking up controls but doesn't really count
W - failed to make wall due to work
T - working late again and knackered
F - ran to work ~6.5 miles, 52 min
S - shattered - short (35min) run
S - double session at the Reach - 20 routes, inc 2 6c onsights, so better than had hoped for. Feel broken.

Seem to be rather accident prone at the moment - managed to fall flat on face when running (at speed) into work on Friday. Ended up with a bruise/graze on knee but more worryingly a very sore hand/wrist. Fortunately think its just a bad bruise - still sore but more mobile. Managed ok on most routes climbing today but didn't like pulling too much - what with that and shoulder still tweaky feeling a bit like I'm falling apart

Aim for this week is to make the most of a busy week....oh and try to injure myself more!
Exile - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn

Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

This weeks focus: Away with work so just keep fit

Weeks training:

M: Morning: 1hr bouldering at Langdale Boulders. Trying a V7 but too heavy at mo'! Evening: 45min road run & 10min core
T: Rest. Away with work
W: 5hr mountain walk with work
T: Morning: 50min trail run. 5hr mountain walk with work
F: Morning: 1hr 10min fell run. Evening: 40min 6b+ continual traversing. Good endurance session
S: Rest
S: THE BEST DAY CLIMBING I'VE EVER HAD! Did Cub's Groove, VD* 13m on Lower Scout, Route 1, VD*** 50m on Upper Scout and Slab Route 1, S*** 70m White Ghyll. Climbed with one of my best mates and my 8 year old son on his first multi pitch rock climbing day. He romped it.
heelhookofglory - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers, Grubes.

Yep that's me. I changed my username a while back.

Another hard week for work. Running my own business and working full-time is resulting in 7 long days a week and it's taking its toll. Something needs to give. I managed to get out quite a bit here and there but I had to miss a golden opportunity to get out with Stafford Club at Birchen today.


Get weight back down to around 142 lbs before 23rd June: Currently 145.6
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!): Currently 0
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding: Intentionally vague

This Week:

- Rest

- Bouldering at The Roaches. A nice circuit in the closing hours including some good height. The friction was very good this evening.

- 5 mile walk with the better half / rest.

- Churnet bouldering session. Felt good. Completed the sit start to Alternative Three (a relitively highball 6C (6B from standing)) for the fist time! I haven't linked the top section yet as the last move out of the horizontal roof is super-reachy and pretty damn high over one mat with no spotter but this is the first time I've done sit start section. Chuffed.
- Core workout
- Upper body workout

- Churnet bouldering session. Felt a bit tired from yesterday's session but enjoyed being out.
- Core workout
- Upper body workout

- Rest

- 12km mountain bike ride. Strava hasn't matched my KOM but after manually matching it up I think I have beaten the KOM by almost a minute. Which is quite a lot on an 8 min section. I have filed a ticket with Strava so I'll know better when confirmed.

Core Session: Leg Lifts 3x12 (1 min rest). Banana Boats 3x12 (1 min rest). Swimming 3x1 min. Superman 3x1 min. L Plank 3x30 secs. R Plank 3x30 secs. F Plank 3x30 secs.
Upper Body Session: Push Ups 4x12 (1 min rest). Pull Ups 4x8 (1 min rest). Reverse Wrist Curls 4x12 (1 min rest). Chair Dips 4x12 (1 min rest).

If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog.
This post pretty much sums it up:
This one adds to it:
Sankey - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: Had a rare midweek indoor roped session, and broke my somewhat pathetic PB for plastic onsight with a mighty 6b+. Shows that outdoor climbing is good training for indoors Spent weekend on two different 7a+'s. Appetite feels quite close, whereas Direct Flight feels nails. Made note of beta for the latter as had forgoten what to do quite badly since last session. As have been mainly trying slightly steeper stuff on good holds recently, DF seemed to drain the fingers quickly, so I guess is a good project.

W: 10 route at Edge, o/s 6b+, others in range 4-6b.
S: Working Appetite
S: Working Direct Flight + being eaten by midges

STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (2)

MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight (working both at present)

LTG: 7b I guess, why not!
leon on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:
STG: No top roping unless I cannot (because I keep falling) bolt to bolt.
MTG: 15 epoints in june(10 to date)
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(19 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(0)
Focus: PE(1/2)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.

Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Horseshoe(max 6b)
Wed: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Thu: Core. Push-ups & Pull-ups.
Fri: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Sat: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Sun: Chee Tor (3 epoints). Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.

Thanks Grubes.

Felt a little light on the training volume this week (tired again), but towards the weekend I've found PE & Strength seem to have made a little step change in the right direction.

Both climbing days this week I was scared on blind moves, assuming this is due to climbing mysef into nothingness last week. Got back on Two Sunspots on Sunday, I was way too high on the traverse last week. I discovered there are two ways of doing the crux, the cool, balancy, blind & committing way or the punters way. I obviously did it the punters way. I've got to hand it to my partner for getting me up the thing, I spent a long time on the crux & was ready/did to call it a day. But all I heard was that this was a straight forward e2 & if I didn't get up it I'd only be allowed to lead at windgather from then on. Anyway, I am well pleased to get in both routes at Chee Tor.

Family holiday next week so no post for a week or two.
Jamming Dodger on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:
Weight is still stable but im getting a bit bored of the same figures now and can probably shave a few more so going to try get to 8st7 (5lb loss). We shall see. Im really going to have to be strict on my diet cause im already exercising loads.
Monday: 10.5 mile trail run.
Tuesday: 9.5 mile road run.
Wednesday: 28 miles bike.
Thursday: 25 miles bike, 1/2 hour core, 1 hr swim. Really like the new instructor. She gets a lot out of us in a short space of time and she's very encouraging.
Friday: 28 miles bike.
Saturday: Rest...
Sunday: 6.5 mile road run. Big curry. I feel a bit fat and gross now. Ho hum.

Im getting a new cat tomorrow (yay!) but will try fit in a climb and swim. Probably wont manage both of those though cause ive a busy week next week.
Adios amigos. H

biscuit - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to mbh:

Read this:

Genetics is tiny.

Consistent hard work is everything.

No excuses for me anymore then :0(
grubes - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: double post after last week depression

STG (July 2013):
Sort out Squamish accomadation - sort of
Top out a tower - fail epically
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Climb on the cromlech - Tick
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
Plan a font trip - 2x currently planning

Week 325 Goals:
Trad - Tick
Big routes - sort of .. Not what I expected

M: rest took cat 1 to vets
T: rest cat 2 hit by a car
W: rest took cat 1 for a follow up brought cat 2 home
T: rest
F: meant to be flying to riglos but forecast was shocking for Spain beautiful here so decided to bail and climb in UK.
Dad took cat 1 back to vets got tests turns out it was leukaemia gets put down.
Climb a beeston tor
Alt lead the thorn as a warm up I lead crux pitch brilliant.
Next up mate lead the beest I followed p1 unable to pull crux head not in climbing any more. Aid crux belay mate on p2 then an.
Mate leads e2 I just belay
S: west nab for an hour or so try a 6C tick s lot of easy stuff.
Pm holmfirth too hot do do warm ups then give up
s: Craig y Longbridge. First visit amazing crag. Did some steep juggy stuff to 6A+

Week 326 goals
Train _ tick
Rock - tick

M: holmfirth 1 hour trying project not as close
W: rokt no inspiration bouldered about tried new circuits not the best
T: core
F: depot knackered after
S depot again really knackered
S almscliff not the best climbing

Next week goals:
biscuit - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Good week for me thanks Grubes. No 7a just a 7a+

Climbing wise i did 4 sessions on my board and have now added an extra set on. Going to consolidate that and then reduce rest time. My daughter volunteered to do the stopwatch and shout at me to keep going. It makes a difference and she likes shouting at me so we're both happy.

Climbed on Saturday at La vida misma. Good choice for shade but the forecast wind did not arrive. It was BOILING. The Summer switch has been turned on here with temps in the 30's every day this last week. Did a couple of warm ups and then lead a 6b (rtp) and a 6c (os). Felt surprisingly easy. Everyone wanted to go to the bar and swim in the lake, lazy Spanish quitters ! I spied a route that needed cleaning and had a TR in it so volunteered to clean it. Surprised myself again by nearly getting it first go. I just set up wrong for the crux at the top. One foot adjustment and i got it 2nd go. On TR of course but very pleasing to be feeling fit again.

Today was even better. Went to Mijas and decided to do all the routes on one wall. Got bored after and hour or so as it turned out they were all 5-6a and climbed the same. Got 7 done i think. I then did a 6c+/7a (os) which i was very happy with. It was a superb, steep, organ pipe tufa route. Felt quite straightforward. What had happened to me ?

My mate wanted to do a 7a+ and it was my turn to climb so i put the clips in for him. Short and strong for this one on pockets. If i had the right mindset i reckon i could have got the flash - i was given some beta - but i went with a bolt to bolt attitude. That'll learn me. Got it 2nd go and felt like i had more in the tank.

Then did a 30m 6c wandering up a vertical wall on small pockets and edges. Complicated route finding but went OK.

FInally got on the 7a i wanted to do but was knackered and this thing is steep and relentless. It didn't happen but it WILL next time i'm there.

So i feel like i am back to a respectable level again. Didn't fall but had no fear of falling. I pushed when i needed to with no hesitation. Weird.

A good running week 45k done.

Hard week coming up with 60k to do. Big jump so i am going to get the long runs done first and see how i feel. Don't want to push it too far too fast but the week after is a programmed easy week.

May be working next weekend. Goals are to run 60k, do my board 4 times reducing the rest by 1 min and see what the weekend brings.
biscuit - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Your post deserves a separate one from me to congratulate you. It's no good hidden in my waffling where you may not see it.

WELL DONE ! That must be an awesome feeling.

Si dH - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
At High tor:
Robert Brown is one pitch of 5c where the 5c bit is safe but you get run-out and committed for a few moves above it, then the second pitch is a really good hardish E1 pitch.
Perseus is one long 50m pitch, some spaced gear but basically its there when you need it and is good. You can split it, but I wouldn't, it would spoil the experience a bit and the second pitch on its own wouldn't be brilliant.
Lyme Cryme has big prang potential on the first pitch. It's a groove that gets both steeper and bolder as you climb, then the last 5 metres or so of it are run out with only the worst bolt in the world to stop you from going a loooonnng way (to the deck?), although you do get to better holds and less steep ground eventually. There are some cams talked about in the guide and ukc that help - but they are virtually at the next piece of gear anywa - lots of bold climbing below them. Then there is a hard crux, which is safe you if you have the right cams and keep your wits about you. The second pitch is a really good tough E1 / soft E2 pitch (crosses through Debauchery and takes in in its crux).

At Chee Tor:
All single pitch and all lower-offs so no need to second it if you don't want to, + you can strip it on ab.
Absent Friends has good gear and no real prang potential. Nice fingery, technical climbing.
Goal of the Month has prang potential if you drop it reaching the second thread (would be close to the ground, this was where I was most worried) or reaching the next bit of gear after that, although the climbing there is slightly easier and it should be a clean fall at that point. Ee replaced the threads the other week so you know theyre good.
Si dH - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:
Oh, on the start of Persus, would recommend climbing direct to the right side of the overlap, don;t follow debauchery as is suggested as an alternative in the latest guide - this is clearly cheating! It's worth a warning the flake at that overlap is now creaking and won't take good gear - but there is a reasonable thread there.
AJM - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Cheers Si!

Perseus - where do you start then? Northern Limestone says up Debauchery. Do you start somewhere between Original Route and Darius - obvious place?

RB sounds good. LC sounds inspiring if sketchy.
Si dH - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:
Thanks Grubes, had a really good week this week, definitely been burning off some of that food I think.
Have been on a diet, using weightw*tchers and have limited myself to 35 points per day plus 35 extras per week, which is a bit less than my standard allowance would be at my weight (38 + 49). Despite gogn out for dinner twice this weekend Ive managed to keep within it and have been feeling fitter and lighter as a result, so I'm happy with that. Without something like this to keep an eye on me, I just have no willpower not to scoff stuff when I'm already full.

Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 1 E2, 4 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Overall that would be 91 E-points...let's chuck in 9 E1s and make it 100

Sport: 2 7b+s to keep my hand in, ideally Brachiation Dance and Space Race but I'm not holding myself to those - too conditions, travel and partner-dependent.

M: Fingerboard session
T: Rest
W: Bouldering at Climbing Station. Spent most of the time on the 10 degree circuits board working a (hard? it felt like it...) crimpy F7a. Didn;t manage it clean but hopefully will do when fresh. Planning to get back there soon and aiming to get to the point where I can lap it for PE training. Also did about 10 of the V4-5 circuit, mostly flashed - they seemed soft for the grade. And crushed a V5-6 problem first go that I hadn't managed the week before. Good session
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Lots of new problems to go at as I hadn't been for 2-3 weeks, so decent mileage. Nothing desperately hard but had a good time.
F: Rest
S: High Tor. Led Perseus E3 5c and tried Lyme Cryme E3 5c but fell off the crux twice. Fortunately gear at that point is good, unlike below (see post above for Andy!) Got it third go then carried on up. Problem on the crux was just pump really, it's very powerful and I just didn't recover enough before going for it. Overall that pitch seemed brick hard for E3.
S: Millstone. Led Embankment 3 E1 5b, seconded Embankment 4 E1 5b, led Time for Tea E3 5c (my main objective for the day, chuffed with that), seconded Saville Street E3 6a (desperate, was pleased to get this clean - guide says hard for both E3 and 6a; it isn't kidding), led Gates of Mordor E3 5c (but took a fall at the crux, one rest then got it - a bit like Lyme Cryme really, just got a bit flash pumped on steep ground and couldnt pull through. I blame ring-locks in greasy cracks). Then seconded Dexterity E1 5b, led Windrete E2 5b, seconded Dextrous Hare E3 5c and led Knightsbridge E2 5c. So, lots of mileage today! I had done the three E1s and Knightsbridge in the past, but long enough ago that I couldn't remember much.

Overall a really good week. Bit disappointed to fail on Lyme Cryme and Gates of Mordor, but pleased with Perseus, Time for Tea and other ticks today.

Cheers, Si
Si dH - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to Si dH)
> Cheers Si!
> Perseus - where do you start then? Northern Limestone says up Debauchery. Do you start somewhere between Original Route and Darius - obvious place?
Start as debauchery for the really easy first few moves left, but then go up directly to the right side of the overlap above you on crimps. Debauchery goes a bit further left, then up a crack to the left hand side of the overlap. The old NL guide got the Debauchery line slightly wrong on the topo I think (dont have it to hand). I think Neil actually went the Perseus way when we first did Debauchery 6-7 years ago - its hard for E1 that way! The new guide suggests following Debauchery and then moving back right under the overlap as an alternative to Perseus, but thats bollocks.
It should be obvious when you get there.

AJM - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:

maria85 - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers grubes & I'm sorry about your cats

Jake - awesome effort!! Must feel amazing to totally smash your goal like that, and in a competition too.
Iain - I never congratulated you on the GB selection, well done, and 12.6 @ 6.16?! Ouch...

Had a good week running wise, which was the aim. Not so much climbing.

M: Trail run round Simon's Seat. 14.1km, 550m height, 1hr39. Plus a slight wrong turn and heather bashing session, but we won't mention that ;-)
T: Lunchtime run, 5.8km, 100m, 31 mins.
Evening mtb 19.5km, 500m, 2hrs. Really nice.
W: Trail run on Ilkley Moor. 9km, 305m, 1hr5. Got soaked, love running in the rain.
T: Lunchtime run, 5.8km, 100m, 30 mins 28 secs... that sub 30 on this loop is stil eluding me, but it's getting closer
Evening Depot. Flashed 12 of the woods & purples (V2-6), one more 2nd go. Fingers tired after, could tell I've not been indoors for a while.
F: Bike commute
S: Ran the three peaks!! Spent the morning making excuses not to go but eventually MTFU'd and went up there as it was my last chance before the marathon. Nearly bailed after falling into bogs coming down off Pen-y-ghent (I apparently highlighted the wrong path on my map, and ignored the signs...), got seriously grumpy. MTFU'd again though and kept going. Walked the steeper ups, ran (well, jogged!) the rest. Ingleborough hurt, not so much my legs but I felt tired and dizzy. Finished in 6hrs 12, way off the race cut off times even (by an hour), but for my first attempt at this kind of distance I was happy enough. ~40km and 1650m. Legs not too bad today, have twinged something in my foot but it seems a lot better already so hopefully nothing too serious.
S: Called in at Pule Hill on the way to Manchester. Cold and windy. Led Apollo (VS 4c), the bottom half on Jules' gear after he bailed off the crux. I see why... really hard for VS! Gets 5a on here which is more like it, felt like it could warrant HVS though. Seconded Flying Buttress (S 4a) and ran away to warm up just as it started raining.

So a pretty good week, have clocked up near enough 75km running and legs are still functioning. Aiming to go fairly but not quite as hard this week (50km) then tail off before the marathon. Ticked another summer goal too (3 peaks).

Update on STG goals (end July):

- Consolidate E1 (specifically, lead 8 E1s) and push to E2. Concentrate on crack climbing in preparation for Italian granite-fest end of summer.
1x E1
- Sport: 6b and get on a 6b+/6c.6b+ tick
- Enough indoor/fingerboard/core training to enable the above. Develop a routine with this and stick to it.
- Spend a week climbing in either S Wales or Cornwall (weeks holiday to use still) Pembroke trip near enough sorted
- Scotland trip - mountain multipitch somewhere (Cuillin Ridge would be a bonus)
- Running: complete a trail half or full marathon race. Run the 3 peaks (the Yorkshire ones that is).3 Peaks tick
- Run commutes at least once a week. Build milage up to ~40km/week.
- MTB: the Mary Townley loop in a day.

JayK - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Went to Dinbren for 3hours this evening after a stupidly long DoE weekend with the kids. Managed to fall off clipping the chains of Elite Syncopations. Literally holding on to the biggest jugs on the crag for about a minute, and just panicking before getting angry and jumping off. Oh well. Short squeezed in session when I never thought I'd get to climb this weekend. Completely cruised the route just a bit frustrated I didn't clip the bloody chains.
Nomics4sale - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes, yes, the trad mileage is going well.

Well done Jake, awesome result! And SiDH, good mileage!

Maria85, that's a very long run, very impressed. Bet you're feeling it today?

STG: 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s
MTG: 7a flash or quick 7b RP in Spain.
LTG: lots of E2s, maybe look at E3, RP 7b+

Mon: 4.5 mile flat road run
Tues: Kilnsey, failed to RP WYSIWYG.
Weds: 6.5 mile trail run, 340m ascent
Thurs: nowt
Fri: circuits Ingleton wall
Sat: 12 mile trail run, 1,000m ascent, Kentmere horseshoe
Sun: Kilnsey, RPed WYSIWYG!! Joy!

Finally got the tick on WYSIWYG. Thank f*ck for that!
AJM - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Well done!
pork pie girl - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali: the accident prone thing possibly about being due on (whispering that as it's a women's issue thing!!) know i'm accident prone at the time of the month.. aslo find that the couple of old injuries i have tend to twinge a little and the hormonal stuff that goes on is apparently a huge contributing factor.
leon on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:
Well done, looks like you are on course to become an uber wad!!
pork pie girl - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: re RPing WYSIWYG.. ta daaaaaaaaaaaa ... it actually happended quite quickly i reckon

you must go an buy yourself a present now.. compulsory when breaking into a new grade.
pork pie girl - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton: :oD
JayK - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Well done Jake. That is one hell of an effort. Onwards and upwards. Next time 1st!!
pork pie girl - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

sunday-malham and then run up ingleborough (shoulders tired form climbing and could really feel it when running)
t- pm malham and then hill laps in the dark
w-gym- int training on bike, weights (letting biceps get a tad more pumped whilst visualising the moves on mescalito.. sad but true), core
t-malham and road bike quick hill blast ebfore tea
f-gym- int training on bike (hurt) weights,pull ups.. sets of 15-18 wide grip followed immediately with 7-8 reps narrow.. to get the biceps engaged more.. then 3x 20 reps of narrow grip) core
s-malham p.m turbo trainer in garage.. sweaty betty
s-road bike (my breakfast almost ended up on the first climb... note to self wait at least an hour before going out for a blast on your bike)

so.. malham... warm up on consenting now longer requires any rests at any bolts as it feels like a warm up without them, but still extend the third bolt to save any ground falls.. especially because a lad told me on thursday he clipped the deck falling before the clip the other day

project.. gain 1.. consisently climbing from ground through crux on top rope, was so so so close to doing so on lead but stared at the next move whilst counting to three several times and exaggerating my 'getting psyched' breathing and then falling off... did that about 5 times on thursday.. managed it ok on tuesday after one fall.. the key with the move is to not hesitate at all and the counting to three and then going for it certainly doesn;t work.. especially when sarah, me and two or three other people do it all at the same time.. only results in me falling off and swearing my head off at myself for hesitating) before this section i was always quite pumped an unable to do the moves at all without rest

gain 2.. linked the crux and the next very reachy bulge a couple of times this week without any rest straight after a fall.. so reckon this will come in time(always a marginal move for me)

gain 3.. took a few falls off the last bulge before the rest ledge...felt too difficult before now, I find the moves again very reachy and committing and requires me to do a strange high step up with right foot at shoulder height to be able to reach the undercut.. which i thought i would be able to clip off.. but.. no.. so after much fiddling and faffing whilst getting pumped . grabbing a sling (extended the run out bolt) fell off and used a beautiful assortment of bad language and spent the rest of the session feeling ashamed of myself for swearing so much and so loudly

gain 4..can now top rope the first 18/19m (before rest ledge)with one fall (on top rope) and a snug rope on the final bulge.. before now i usually fall off about 4 times (including a snug rope at fonal bulge)

- power endurance is taking longer to improve then i expected
- so far i am making gains once a week and the repeating this for the rest of the sessions in the week withoiut being able to progress any more
-always leading my project doesn't always help improve my power endurance as i find i am more tired and unable to link less on top rope attempts after leading, a session of just top roping it for fitness each week(which i've tried twice over the last two weeks)has helped me link more and made my leading better (usually)because I am slowly getting fitter
-i'm nowhere near as worried about falling as i used to be.. my biggest fear (that hinders my progress whilst leading) is the fear of not making the next move and feeling fed up about it.. so need to work on my head
have been able to do all the moves to the rest ledge for about 4 weeks but it's taking about 3-4 sessions to link an extra section (i'm considering a section as the next bit before the next bolt .. requiring lots of moves at my limit) i tend to make a bit of progress each week and then repeat it for the next two or three sessions.
- i have an obsessive personality when it comes to climbing (and exercsie.. not news really)
Ally Smith on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Andy - get on Flaky Wall. You'll cruise it! (virtually zero "prang" potential on hard bits, with some more run-out climbing in-between)

Steer clear of Decadence - a lot more prang potential; even the crux isn't that well protected. Felt top-end E4 to me.
Ally Smith on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Well done on WYSISYG. Brilliant to watch you moving fast and smoothly up this compared to Matt's super-static style.

The other 7b/E5 I couldn't remember the name of when you asked for recommendations was Deja Vu
Nomics4sale - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Thanks! I did a couple of 7bs in Spain but I think you're right I deserve a present. UK 7b is a new and harder grade compared to Spanish 7b
Nomics4sale - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

cheers! Did Matt get Dead Calm done on last-RP-of-the-day-before-getting-eaten-alive? Midges were pretty bad by then...

I had a look at that route, it looks really good. Do you know if you can clipstick above the wire so that you don't have to put it in on lead? I think you said it is possible? Would be tempted to have a go if so.
biscuit - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

How rude !

I was just about to congratulate you but feel i should be affronted on behalf of the Spanish climbing community ;0)

Just different styles for the most part. Easier to read white chalk on orange limestone,bigger holds, better rests but normally longer routes.

I did a short 7a+ yesterday that was very Kilnsey. Steep off the ground, complicated holds until a crux off a big flatty using a heel hook to reach high and crossed through to a 2 finger upside down pocket. Then much easier, but pumpy, climbing to the chains at about 10m. Dead easy to read though.

I also failed on a very Euro 7a that was just relentless jug/tufa pulling for 25m with one rest where you hang nearly sideways off a toe hook.

Different styles.

I will say well done though
Ally Smith on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

No - Matt's final RP effort was similar to the first two; pinging off at the start of the crux, followed by pulling back on after a short rest and going to the top in one.

The midge were pretty bad by that point, but not unbearable with DEET and a head net.

I can't remember 100% with Deja Vu, but I think you'd probably be alright with a long stick. You can lower off before the final section (where i think there was a wire) for an "E4" (7a/+?) option
Nomics4sale - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

ha ha yes sorry about that! Your 7a+ sounds pretty good and actually quite hard, heel hook to reach a 2 finger upside down pocket?? Very Kilnsey 7b.
James Malloch - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Awesome effort on WYSIWYG Rachel!

If anyone knows the two girls (Jenny & friend) who were at Kilsey yesterday then let them know I have their belay glasses. I've put a post up on the FB group too.
pork pie girl - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: ah.. forgot about thsoe.. sorry.. i don't know if they're easier in spain but i know you're well chuffed to gte this one under you're belt.. well done
maria85 - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Woop woop! Nice one, knew you'd get there eventually. So, what's next?!

Legs aren't too bad actually, no worse than after a 20km run anyway. Was a bit worried about a sore tendon(?) on the top of my foot but it's easing fast so hopefully nothing serious. I admit that my bike to work today felt a bit slower than usual though!
useful on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Exile:
> S: THE BEST DAY CLIMBING I'VE EVER HAD! Did Cub's Groove, VD* 13m on Lower Scout, Route 1, VD*** 50m on Upper Scout and Slab Route 1, S*** 70m White Ghyll. Climbed with one of my best mates and my 8 year old son on his first multi pitch rock climbing day. He romped it.

Wow, impressed by your lad! I'm interested (with 7yo daughter): How did you handle the climbing order? Did he second, you third?

Luke Owens - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:
Cheers Grubes

Back off my holiday now so here's a double update:

M: Rest
T: Dinbren - Got on new F7b+ proj "I Punched Judy First". Just about managed all the moves. Need to refine beta and get some good links going. Different style to what i'm used to (It's steep and powerfull) so i'm psyched!
W: Ty Newedd - Did a short F7a "Clitoris Allsorts" first go after trying it a couple of weeks ago and also did a F6c "Foobar" first go which I had tried briefly last year.
T: Packing/Sorting
F: Packing/Sorting
S: Travelling
S: Holiday

Last Week-

M: Holiday/ Lots of Walking
T: Gym - Did body weight lat pull downs, some 40kg bench pressing, Body weight deadlifts and some core on the roman chair.
W: Holiday/ Lots of Walking
T: Holiday/ Lots of Walking
F: Holiday/ Lots of Walking
S: Traveling
S: Feet on Fingerboarding:
5 x (1:30 on, 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 5 minutes)
biscuit - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

You're doing a whole lot more volume in a session than me with the foot on fb. Do you just do it 1ce a week ?

I do 4x1:30 on with 7min rest ( 6min this week ) between each rep.

I then do this 4 times a week.

You must be busted after that session. If i am reading it right you do 15 x 1:30 in a session ? I do 16 in a week with much more rest.
Luke Owens - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I do:

1 minute 30 seconds on
2 minutes rest
Above 3 times then rest 5 Minutes and repeat the whole thing 5 times.

I do about 60 - 70 hand movements during the 1:30. So yeah, 15 lots of 1:30.

The whole thing equates to 22 minutes 30 seconds "on" and 40 minutes resting. It is a killer and I feel boxed during and after it!

I try and do it twice a week but haven't managed more than once a week as of late. It's hard to fit around climbing outdoors 3 times a week but I definitely think it helps! I think I need to try and up the time on and increase the rest time shortly though so maybe:

3 - 5 x (2 mins on, 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 7-10 minutes)
Ally Smith on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

I posted something close to this at the end of UKCFC 325 then deleted it before pasting it here. Dumb-arse.

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Spring 2013) - 8b
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.
Stolen at Kilnsey - see below.

STG - update
- Get energy back - need some quality sleep this week
- Finger re-hab; getting there
- Shoulder/elbow physio; tackling the cause of my elbow pains, not the symptoms - much less of an issue with outdoor climbing instead of indoors
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) 75.6kg and and 6.6% even after a week of eating excessively - guess the 12hr days were taking their toll

The week just gone:

M - Travel to NL - big meal and booze
T - Training course - lots more food, and Belgian beers
W - NL then travel home. Free bubbly in KLM lounge
T - Shattered.
F - still knackered, but went to Cave anyway (dropped LF sans pocket at pocket, then couldn't even do finishing move in isolation)
S - Still woke up at 0630 despite no need. Fixed, then rode bike. Sense of humour failure at 'degla de to headwind on climb. Bailed out on blue - very uncharacteristic. Normally enjoy battling it out. Friends BBQ - gorged on triple helping of pudding
S - Kilnsey. Unfamiliar 7a to warm-up. Then got back on Cold Steal.
1st go - Dogged; crux felt hard
2nd go - bouldered to get recruited; crushed the crux, then cocked up the odd clipping position for bolt 3 and grabbed draw (not being a wimp - honest - it's a nasty fall from there!)
3rd go - went too soon - crux felt hard, clipped bolt 3, then chicken wing elbow and foot slip in quick succession had me falling
4th go - much better "happy" psyche. Had this before - when i set off with a smile, red-pointing is enjoyable! Got through the lower section fast and smooth - 7c+ to here? "Rested" on the slab then finished it off (another 7b+/c section?)
Finished the session with a quick work of Stolen - did crux first go. Just need to fathom one of the clips and it's game on (another 7c/+ and 7b sections to the top from first belay?)

Strange how a terrible lethargic week can be turned around for no apparent reason?
biscuit - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Sounds intense.

Do you think 4 days less intense is better than 1 day max ? How long does it take you to recover ?

I know it's helped me for sure.

Do you have to go to the wall to do it ? I've got a board in my garage so it's easy to do little and often.

I saw your thread on UKB is this how you came up with that amount in 1 session ?
biscuit - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

I reckon it was the triple helping of pudding that turned it round.

COngrats - that's a hard route.
Exile - on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to useful:

Go for it - get your daughter out there. As long as you're progressive it's amazing what kids can achieve and the joy they get from it. Just remember they're kids - our day ended with an ice cream at the New Dungeon Ghyll and Max playing on his DS while Malc' and I chatted - Lego Battles won out over joining us in the usual climbers post match analysis!

In relation to our day out I led everything on two ropes and then Max, (my son,) and Malcolm, (my mate,) seconded on a rope each with Malc' climbing not far behind Max. Max knows Malc' well - I think kids can often be better in these situations with adults they know but aren't their parents. Max certainly enjoyed the day run like this.

I used a reverse in guide mode to belay. Don't know if you know the routes but the two longer ones I ran as two pitches rather than the guide book four for each, (Route 1 pitches 1 & 2 together and 3 & 4 together, Slab Route 1 pitches 1, 2 & 3 together.)

If it helps re progression Max has done a reasonable amount of climbing at Kendal wall, (but not regular by any means,) and some single pitch rock here and in France before now. He's also done a couple of 'Go Ape' ropes course type things which I suspect helps with the heights.
useful on 17 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:
> Useful - sounds like you 7y/o will be burning you off before too long
She's fine as long as daddy's at the top. If I'm at the bottom, she hardly goes above 3m

Fairly rubbish week this week in term of quantity, but quality was ok:
Monday: 17mile walk to Chester from Hawarden via Queensferry and Saltney (I thought it was about 10miles) - in under 4.5 hours, including a chip shop break!
Tuesday: Crinkle Crag, Great Orme with John. Amazing climbing area, if only for the suspicious seal, the sound rocks being washed out of the caves, various seabirds (Cormorants, Skua, Auks) and a beautiful sunset. I led Ask Politely HS 4a without trouble, seconded Grog on the Gound VS 4c, then led No Comebacks VS 4c, with its interesting overhanging chimney up to under-roof traverse move. Sat there for a while, until I worked it out in my head, then was past it in seconds, even managing to place a cam under the roof while most of the weight was on the other hand. Good fun that one, though!

Since then, several quality evenings with the missus/meals out with work guys/driving.

Other news/excuses: I've felt a bit lethargic the past few weeks, either too much coffee or not enough rest, or hayfever. That seems to have passed this week. Also nursing several sore bits on my left shoulder/neck/arm/hand for at least a few weeks, so it's been good to have a chance to rest a bit.

This week is likely to be the same with me heading to Czech for my brother's wedding on Saturday. Maybe I should take my shoes: It's about 30degC out there!!

JBO on 17 Jun 2013
Cheers for all the nice words guys, I needed a bit of fit club psyche! Just pleased as competitions had always been so hard for me so I'm pleased to have finally cracked them. More recent fit club members won't remember my first comp experience a year and a half ago when I finished 15th out of 18 so it's certainly improved.

In reply to Ali: I really don't keep a cool head, I was stressed like mad just before the final route! I knew it all came down to this one route but people were slipping off all over the place, by the end of the night my jaw was aching from having my teeth constantly clenched!

In reply to Jimmy: unfortunately there won't be a next time, that was my last year doing the YCS, I'm too old now fortunately I've still got the BLCCs and the Youth Opens...
grubes - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:
Well done Jake on second and all the best in the rest of the comps.
It will put that one bad comp from last year to bed.

Enjoy your summer now. Looking forward to seeing you 8a tick and your first E6
pork pie girl - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber: wonder if the rest did you loads of good?
Luke Owens - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I'd imagine more than one session a week would be more beneficial but I like to keep the intensity high.

I came up with the amount to do in a session based on the thread you mentioned I created on ther other channel.

It was mentioned that the ratio between time on and rest should be between 1.5:2 or 2:2.
biscuit - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

I am copying/adapting the Ste Mac article on it.

I was just wondering whether to absolutely beast myself once a week like you or keep going with less intensity but more frequency.

Having said that what i am doing seems to be working for me at the moment so i think i will stick with that and maybe use your beasting session for my next phase.
Luke Owens - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I'm never "really" sure if i'm doing the right thing.

Sometimes you hear beasting yourself is the best policy then others say to leave something in the tank.

Right now I still have DOM's in my forearms 2 days after doing the session (I completely rested yesterday too).

Is that a good thing...? I'm hoping so!
Ally Smith on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Short term you may be forcing some adaptation, so long as you rest sufficiently to recovery in-between "beasting" sessions, but i don't think training with this intensity with a high frequency is the way forward.

In essence, if you keep getting DOMS and not recovering in-between, you'll fail to super-compensate and the overall effect will be a negative one.

Keep riding the wave of improvement by getting the ratio of rest and session intensity correct and you'll be on to a winner.
Ally Smith on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
> I wonder if the rest did you loads of good?

I doubt it, the week away hardly felt restful at all. Too much food and booze and poor/lack of sleep all added up to feeling pretty spaced out by Saturday.

10hrs kip last night though and I think i've turned the corner.

Tor tonight to try and lay some demons to rest...

Luke Owens - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

Cheers Aly, So by training at a high intensity i'm not allowing enough rest to let the maximum gains come through and in effect de-training to some extent?

I guess the right balance would be something I could recover from with one days rest?

I always seem to be starting a session with DOM's from the previous session to be honest...
grubes - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:
> Plan a font trip - 2x currently planning
Just booked the time off work at christmas and e-mailed a Gite :D Spending christmas on the grit then new years in La Foret!!!
I love freezing cold bouldering :D

Just realised I never finished my post
> Next week goals:
Chew valley circuit: 9.2 miles walking, 9 crags, 9 routes
Celebrate saturday night
biscuit - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Yeah one of the worst things you can do is not give something a proper chance and chop and change all the time.

Mine is working for me and your seems to be working for you.

I may use yours once i plateau at mine to bust through to the next level.
Ali - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Nice work!

PPG - really??! I hadn't given that any consideration... I am sincerely hoping I can be a bit less self-damaging this week - there is no way I can inflict my scabby knees on the world but winter tights are a bit warm in this weather.
pork pie girl - on 18 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali: yes.. seriously... apparently hormonal levels also make some ligaments/tendons a bit over flexible and this can make injuried flare up .. there was a study (haven;t read it but was told about it) and it looked at the increase in knee injuries female athletes got when they were due on... the increase was really significant.

as far as being clumsy... i am all over the plave for a day or two most months.. walking into doors, dropping things etc. sarah's the same. doens't tend to bother me climbing .. juts makes me swear loads more when i fall or climb like a prat
useful on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: What are DOMs?!?

From my days of Rowing training, the key sessions were the high intensity circuits and weights (2-3 times a week). If you had time spare, then fit in lower intensity, longer duration "Active Recovery" sessions in between. These have the benefit of flushing blood through the muscles and clearing away that nasty lactate. Bear in mind that Active Recovery can be astoundingly slow: e.g., when on the bike, you really have to plod along (Heart Rate about 120bpm) and resist the urge to catch up with Normals who zoom past you!

Active Recovery may be anything from simple traversing, light running, easy climbing, etc.

Keep going at it, though and you'll start to feel superhuman!
mrchewy - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to useful: DOMS - Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness. Usually hits me about 30 to 36 hours after a hard exercise session but it can vary quite a bit.
useful on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Ah, thanks.
It's possible that for hard strength training, active recovery doesn't work in the same way then: it sounds like muscle fibre repair that's required, rather than lactate flush. However, keeping them working while they repair will reap longer term strength gains.

Disclaimer: I have never studied Sports Science officially and this is my own opinion!
Ally Smith on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

> I always seem to be starting a session with DOM's from the previous session to be honest...

Not a good idea!

If you've still got DOMS, then lower the intensity to the active recovery level that other folk have talked about. This might be something as lowly as F5+ traversing/routes - you need to be able to hold down a conversation whilst climbing and feel hardly any physical stress. Use this time to concentrate on technique and mental training.
biscuit - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

When i was doing circuits at the wall prior to kalymos a few years ago i would often feel battered before starting as i was also trying to get used to climbing a few days in a row.

Once warmed up i would be fine but it felt the living end to make the effort to go.

However this was a different feeling than DOMS i guess, more fatigue than pain of muscle fibre damage.

That's why i was initially questioning Luke, it seemed a bit intense.

Looking through the UKB thread he's taken the idea from Sasquatch who is a very good boulderer and climber ( in the 8's for both i think ).I think he may have underestimated how intense his program could be for mid level climbers like us.
Luke Owens - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Yeah, I changed it up based on his recommendation but he always say's to make sure it suites your current level.

I might just cut out the last 2 set's and do 3 in total instead of 5 and see how I feel from there.

It's always hard to find out what suites your current level I find. In my case I always end up doing to much.

I still have slight ache in my forearms today and I haven't done anything since the session on sunday...!
pork pie girl - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: could slight ache in teh forearms sometimes be more about slight injuries rather than muscle fibres needed to be repaired? i know that the very top of my forearms close to the inside of my elbow joints have pretty much always got slight soreness when i flex my forarm muscles and wondered of that was tendon rather than muscle?

i sort of assoctaie DOMS with somehting you get when you have suddenly done excercise that you haven't done for quite some time... so tried much harder climbing, done squats in the gym when you haven't trained your legs for ages etc? i never get DOMS and i always push myself hard...and i figured this is because i am working at that sort of rate on a regular basis?

mrchewy - on 19 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Not too sure about that - I did huge amounts of squats early last year and I never really stopped getting DOMS. I guess it depends if you have the capability to grow more muscle-wise? A lot of which would be down to getting protein in at the right times etc.

I'm only guessing tho.
useful on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to mrchewy:
If you're continually getting DOMS then you're either bang on the limit of recovery/repair, or never quite getting there.
I'd feel better picking a training intensity where you at least feel human for one week in four then can step up the intensity. That's listening to your body, which I'm sure most of us are appalling at!
Luke Owens - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

Before I started climbing I used to lift weights for 3 years and am very used to the DOMS feeling this is definitely DOMS i'm getting in my forearms.

I almost feel like my forearms have been playing catch up with my other muscle groups since I started climbing and I still feel pretty "unbalanced" muscle wise now. Which is why I have to watch out on the Golfers Elbow.

I'm very suprised to hear you don't get DOMS after pushing hard in a session? I always have DOMS the day after climbing/training. I don't think i've ever not had it! I eat well and take in plenty of protein, carbs etc. My possible only downfall is a could do with getting more sleep at night.

For example I went out yesterday evening. Did a F6c first go as a warm up, tried on-sighting a F6c+ then worked on a F7b+ project for a short amount of time. F7b is my current redpoint limit. Then today I have full on DOMS.

I'm beginning to think i'm not normal... Surely i'm not trying "too" hard?
JayK - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

T-Good strong training session with lots of campussing and 150 core movements at end of session.
W-150Core movements
T-150Core movements
F-5-a-side football
S-DoE walk with kids.
S-DoE. finished at 3. Got picked up at 4. Got to Dinbren for 6. Fell off clipping the chains holding possibly the biggest jugs on the crag after blitzing the route. Drove home.

I've been having nightmares about not ticking elite syncopations all week. Felt way too easy the other night, just my poor mental strength let me down. Need to get it ticked asap and get that 3year account closed.

Getting there. Psyched for summer. Definitely want to get my 8a ticklist completed by the end of summer and have attempted the big yorks 3. More work on Tuppence as well. Super psyched. Sport Sport Sport Sport.
Luke Owens - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Effort on Elite beast!

Atleast being that close and it feeling pretty easy means it'll be ticked no problem. Better than being nowhere near it!

Was at the Bren yesterday evening. Plenty of people out, good scene.
JayK - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Shame being a weekend warrior at the moment - I'm getting all the cack weather. Don't suppose you fancy an evening up there tomorrow? Could get there for 6.
Luke Owens - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Taking the missus out climbing on some easy stuff somewhere tomorrow sorry bud.

Will be out on Sunday all day but the weather looks bad so will probably be somewhere like the Llandulas/Ty Newedd/Gorge.

I'll be about in the evening next week if you're keen let me know when you can make it.
JayK - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

I guess I could go bouldering in the gorge. Probably should try Byron's low start to Panty's or the link across the crag.
Luke Owens - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

They're damn hard problems, you're too strong buddy!

Will give you a shout with where we're heading. Probably be on the routes in the gorge though.
JayK - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Weather doesn't look that damp on Sunday at the moment. Fingers crossed.
biscuit - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Warm up more is the only criticism i could make.

I'm about the same level as you atm and I start at around 6a. I know it's not always possible with available routes etc. It affects me more now though as i am older if i don't warm up properly

PPG is an outlier. She works herself that hard all the time she would probably get some kind of reaction to not training rather than training too hard

We're all different and you seem to have made some good gains with your intense workouts. I was just enquiring and didn't mean to make you doubt yourself. Stick woth something endurance based for at least 8 weeks before changing. FInd what works for you. What i do fits into my lifestyle better - i can grab a quick 1/2 hr once the kids are in bed most nights.

In another few weeks i will probably plateau, change it up and give yours a go.
Luke Owens - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I never feel like I have time to warm up properly at the evening crag sessions which is a problem. I only ever do one warm up route so that probably doesn't help. Think I need to try and rest more and find a suited level intensity for the additional training sessions though.

I often question whether what i'm doing is the "right" thing so don't worry you didn't spark off any doubt!

I'm going to stick at PE/Endurance stuff for now. I'm definetly not lacking strength on the routes i'm wanting to do. Let me know how you get on with the workout i've been doing (Especially if you get 3 day DOMS! haha)
biscuit - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

If you give me 3 day DOMS i will let you know don't worry !

Do you warm up enough for your workout - or warm down ?

I don't think i've ever really done that tbh ( warm down ) but with that amount of work it may be good to try and flush the badness out after.
Luke Owens - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I warm up at home for the fingerboard for about 10 minutes, enver warm down.

I'm going to start warming up, warming down and reducing the workout intensity slightly and let you know how I get on. Interested to see what difference (if any) it will make.
grubes - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:
anyone got any advice on the DWS at swanage? Is it worth the drive?
Fishermans ledge looks great.
JayK - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

F*ck yeah!
JayK - on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Top notch. Conger and Freeborn Man are wicked. Go get on it.

As are Davy Jones' and Donald Where's your trousers and Fathoms.

I found Swanage very scary because of the height and the enclosed feeling. So good though. I definitely dived off the diving platform.

Also get yourself over toe Lulworth for Horny Lil Devil and the Laws traverse. It's a lot less scary then Swanage as it's much less high.
grubes - on 21 Jun 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thinking of heading down 2-4th august Saturday DWS, sunday sport

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