UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Hi all, I hope someone made use of the good conditions at the start of the week as I didn’t!  I’m currently looking at the ice rink that used to be the roads around our house thinking we might not be going anywhere today either.  Well done those that got all their training goals met this week.

Derek Furze – shame about the work situation and I suspect that your free time hasn’t coincided with the weather this week either.  Oh to be a sponsored hero and just go climbing whenever the conditions are good!

Si dH – its always frustrating when illness stops play.  This autumn seems particularly bad for it.  Lets home it doesn’t keep going all winter.

Alan Little – I think confidence and move reading ability are both improved by millage at a grade you onsight 50% of the time.  That way you’re keen enough to really go for it as you know there is a good chance of success and you’re still forced to commit and take a lob from time to time. Sounds like a great trip by the way.

Steve Claw – did you finish roughly where you expected in the comp?  Possibly more useful for comparison if its always the same group of people and varying sets of problems.  Good effort at Cheddar, its pretty grim there in the cold and wet.  You might find things come together more quickly than you think with better conditions.  With the max hangs it might be worth dropping the weight slightly so you can do a full 10sec without failure. You’re going well at the mo, it would be a shame to tempt injury.

Ross Barker – massive congrats on T crack (I’ve done easier 7B+s…).  I’ve not noticed The Kid, must try that.  The Razor roof problems are all tip slicers, not one for the start of the day if you plan to try something else!

SteveJC94 – Welcome, welcome. Let us know what your training goals are and what problems/routes you are aspiring to.

Tyler – sounds like the new location is going to work out very well, everyone crashing at Tyler’s house when welsh winter arrives right!? 😉  Or welsh summer for that matter!

AJM – progress is usually imperceptibly small so if you feel like you’ve improved I’d take that as massive gains!  Where do you hang your portable finger board at your in-laws house?  Got me thinking how I could do something similar.

Liam P – I feel like I’ve said the same thing the last few weeks but we are down to single figure days now!  Glad the diet experiment is working, I wonder if you’ll crave more carbs when you can do more cardio again?

The sheep – given how consistent your training is I don’t think a few days off after your jab needs any guilt, especially after the swim effort.  Those at work that have had a 3rd jab seem to be back to normal pretty quick so hope you feel better now.

Ally Smith – lurgy club continues, although your home training regime makes it look like you are going to lay waste to the rock in spring.  That moon board has been a great investment.

Tom Green – that was a beefy run, was that exploring from the new house?  Give me a shout when you’re free for a go a Whitewall, I’m keen to try it too, and some of the mega choss over on the far right!

Mattrm – hope you are well, feel free to check in even if you've not been out at all.

Daft thing is week 766 was pretty good.  Here it is:

STG - 6a and improve diet

L/MTG - TBD

M - 2.5m walk

T - 2.5m walk - Climbing wall session (evening)

W - F - Rest (I think?)

S - 4m walk

S - 2.5m walk

Lots of walking and a climbing session.  Got on a 6a+ on the auto-belay and made good progress on it.

Week 767

STG - 6a and improve diet

L/MTG - TBD

M - 2.5m walk

T - S - Rest

S - 2.5m walk

Climbing session didn't happen as my wife was feeling ill, so I was looking after her and my son.  My son then knocked the cap off his tooth so took him to the dentists (it's a long running saga).  Haven't really got out much for walking either, especially with the weather over the weekend.

Thanks SSB,

Everyone in the comp finished with significantly lower scores and I was placed about the same, so I know I did ok, just a shame to not get a goal I specifically set myself. 

The fingerboarding has been on my mind, and I realised this week that it was a change of board that upset my progress.  I had been using a well worn Beastmaker, then changed to a Lattice rung.  What I didn't realise is that with the Beastmaker I have been pulling slightly together, thus using the curve by the index finger for extra friction, which you can't do with the Lattice rung.  After returning to the Beastmaker this week, I was back ok at 15kg.  What is everyone's view on this, and how do you do it?

I have been asking around and I have friends of the same body type who can max hang significantly more than me (I'm +15kg and they are +30kg), yet we climb the same grades, so although I know its not overly important, I do think its somewhere I can make gains.

M - Nothing super hard day at work

T - Indoor session - Autobelay warmup, 6*10s Hangs on Beastmaker +15kg all to 9/10s. Play on boulders and Autobelays had a 7b set, so did repeats on that with 30s rests.

W - Nothing

T - Outdoors, dressed up for 4 degree winter weather, arrived at the Costa del Brean and felt like a summers day! Chulilla (7b+) felt nails dogging the clips in, struggled to link it on TR, then amazingly pulled the RP out of the bag on the next go.  Started up El Chocco (7c) and did all the moves, but too late in the day to go for a RP.

I've not spent much time at Brean Down, but the style seems very "old skool", good for those with strong shoulders who can campus (which is not me). Its unusual to see 7's that are so polished.

F - Indoor Boulders 2hr - 6*10s hangs +15kg felt weak.  Woody board session, ok but again felt weak.  Not enough rest from the day before, lesson learnt, should have gone for an autobelay endurance session or similar.

Cheers SSB. Had a break this week to celebrate the 12th and final week of Recovery Club!

I was discharged from the Fracture Clinic on Thursday as the X-ray looked good and wouldn’t require any interventions. I’ve been told to start weight-bearing and moderate walking but no impact/running for another 6months.

Very happy with progress over these last 12 weeks. Boredom and being a captive audience has definitely provoked a focused period of Push/Pull/Core routines.

RecoveryClub Goals

• Recover (finally!)
• 3x3 5sFrenchies (probably the most disgusting one)
• Max Hang 20s 20mm +12kg (happy with progress in “Long Max Hangs” but will now switch it up with the regular protocols)
• Bent Arm Planche (happiest about these as I’ve been messing around for 6 years with little progress. So psyched to get this progression but think I’m too tall to get any further).
• Full 20x Core Circuit (tick)
• Weight <175lb (Yes! minimal injury chubb gain)

The only remaining goal is a full Front Lever. I can hold a One Leg FL for 12-15s but that’s some serious lat strength to get the full hold. Slightly disappointing, but then if you achieve all your goals you didn’t set them hard enough!

 Plan is to do a few indoor bouldering sessions to get confidence back then possibly a trip outside on some easy stuff. My Norway trip is 10 weeks away which is looking doubtful with the ‘slowly introduce moderate walking’ diagnosis but we’ll see - the Omicron Variant may take the decision out my hands anyway.

Have a good week.

Thanks SSB.  

M-F: still ill. Symptoms gradually reduced from Tuesday but I didn't feel motivated enough to try and push through it so decided to rest.

S: still a bit blocked up but did a short fingerboard session. 3*30 second density hangs then 4 sets of 3/6/9 on the 23mm edge with bodyweight + 20 kg.

S: still feeling blocked up, just resting.

Being ill is rubbish. It's not currently covid (apart from the baby we've all had PCRs now) but we are very much a plague house at the moment, my son keeps bringing things home from school and I've lost track of which of us have which iteration of bug. My right arm has also been giving me occasional trouble where I tweaked it the other week (my bicep where it joins the shoulder.) It seems to be triggered by child wrangling, especially lifting the bigger one (nearly 20kg now) at arms length. Need to be a bit careful.

Aim for this week is to not be ill and hopefully go to the wall at some point.

Si

My folks had their loft converted and the stairs up to it are just hanging slats so you can wrap a sling round them. Years ago in the gap between coming home from uni and moving away for work I did a whole batch of winter training doing weighted ice axe pull-ups off slings looped round them. The downside is that those stairs are above the stairs from ground to first floor so it isn’t a place that’s conducive to going all out! One other thought is whether there’s anything secure above a loft hatch that could be slung - at home I put some rope loops round some of the timbers in the loft so I can hang gymnastic rings out of the loft, which works ok. Ymmv obviously!!!

A good week this week, albeit I should have probably done a little more, I had hopes of a session on Friday or Tuesday and managed neither. Anyway, with an indoor project ticked, some progress on another one, a cool problem ticked outside and an account opened on a new project that I’m quite keen to return to, it’s not a bad haul!

Monday - quite specifically achey in parts of my shoulders. Either the child carrying, some sort of stabiliser muscles getting hammered by pull-ups on the portable (hanging) fingerboard, or a combo of the two. Rest.

Tuesday - poor sleep, still achey, wall all booked up anyway - rest

Wednesday - short wall session with miniAJM. Did a bunch of the easier problems from the recent comp to warm up, then ticked the slightly overhanging crimpy number from last session first go up it. Spent a bit of time on the third project, managed to nail the jump for the hold semi consistently and had a couple of goes nearly getting the foot up in order to then make the next throw. Progress.

Thursday - morning off work, Cuttings boulderfield in glorious sunshine. Went to try another problem off my “why haven’t I don’t this already” list, Southern Soul (f6C) a 6C rising lip traverse. It’s funny how time passes when you’re on your own and not really looking at it - it felt like took me ages, but I ticked it at 1030 and I can’t have pulled onto it before 0920 since I only parked the car at 9! Lazed about in the sun for a bit not entirely sure what to do - I wasn’t out for long, and Southern Soul was definitely hard enough to take the edge off in terms of trying further difficult stuff - but popped over to Lightning Strike for a brief look. It was windier there and the problem was in the shade, so less pleasant conditions. Feels like there’s a lot of whole body tension involved with the feet under the initial roof - there’s a heel toe a few moves in that’s tensiony and then a bit of effort to release in control, followed by a heel that’s great for the move but a bit far back once you’ve hit the sloper so tough to release in control, and you’re fridge hugging some very smooth limestone slopers whilst trying to release it and walk the feet around to get a tricky heel up on the lip….. doesn’t feel like it’ll be easy!

Random video of someone on Southern Soul for context… https://www.instagram.com/p/CTQOaCijfTc/?utm_medium=copy_link

Friday - should have done something but failed

Saturday - probably 5-6km of blustery pram pushing with microAJM. Decent stretching and compression session in the evening.

Sunday - New Cuttings with miniAJM, since I knew it would be more sheltered there. Was intending to focus on Sub Youth Start (f7A+), but actually ended up spending most of the day on Stompin' with Bez Start (f7B), the neighbouring 7B. Made some progress on this - took a little while to figure out a steady way of doing the start few moves but they’re sorted now. There’s then an awkward match at my high point, where I can sort of do the match but definitely need to do it better to stand a chance on the next move, which I think might be the crux. There’s then one more move to what looks like a decent side pull and then a highball finish.

My attempts here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CW02QNPIMMr/?utm_medium=copy_link

A video of the direct for anyone interested in what the rest of the problem looks like: https://www.instagram.com/p/CSzGbmijtEO/?utm_medium=copy_link

I feel your pain! (And any other FC folk in the same boat). We are now the proud owners of yet another negative PCR for miniAJM, to ensure that his "all bark and no bite" (he's noisy but otherwise perfectly happy) cough doesn't get him sent home from school tomorrow on the assumption it's Covid - but whatever it is microAJM and MrsAJM haven't entirely escaped the creeping pestilence.

Evening, cheers for stats as always.

I would like to wish myself a warm welcome to UKC LurgyClub, as this week I was hit with some coldy-fluey non-covid thing. Still a couple decent sessions, though!

Please suggest some of those easier 7B+'s, I can't seem to find them! I presume Ram Air (f7B+) isn't one, but it does look rather good!

Last Week:

M - 1.5 mile ish walk.

T - 1.5 mile ish walk.

W - Moonboard power hour. Couple of new 7s, despite generally feeling a bit sluggish. Ally's recommendations are nails!

T - Yesterday's sluggish turned into today's lurgy. Hasn't knocked me for six like Covid did last year, but still a bit rough. Think it's what everyone else had a couple weeks ago!

F - Lurgy. Crap head and just a bit knackered.

S - Lurgy.

S - Pretty much recovered, and the weather took a shite turn, so went to Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge). Cheers to Ally for topo! Warmed up rehearsing sequences for Panty's Down (f7A+), then executed second go, also tried the sit but the moves are outright unenjoyable. Tried Be Ruthless (f7C) for a bit but can't stick the top hold from the move - but can stick it if I jump from the ground. The slight outward swing is just enough to overcome my strength and spit me off. Had a few "while I'm here" goes on Firestarter (V6) and it's still nails, the slot is disgusting and the movement is just weird! Next time...

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Rest.

W - Rigpa?

T - Rest.

F - Rest.

S, S - Outdoor punting.

Goals:

Rigpa.

Suavito.

"Nestling" into the corners of beastmaker pockets gives me an advantage too. Probably 10kg extra compared to the lattice edge?

Nicely done sir - not an easy one IMHO.

Curious, my reflections if Brean are that it's all fingers and footwork, much like Malham.

May I suggest Global Solutions (7c) as a worthy target?

May be I need to go there and do more of the routes.  Will check that one out.

Thanks for the warm welcome SSB. Main goals for the next year are:

1. Stay injury free for once!

2. Onsight some of Pembroke's classic E4s after falling in love with the place over a brilliant August Bank Holiday

3. Headpoint some of the Peaks classic E5s (Pool Wall and White Wall are first on the list due to my love of quarried grit!)

The past week:

M - 45k on the bike in HR Zone 3

T - Sacked off the hangboard to do some gritstone bouldering under a full moon 

W - Knee rehab and core exercises in the gym 

T - 6 x 10s @ 90% of max (bw +15kg) 20mm edge, half crimp. 6 x 10s @ 90% of max (bw +15kg) 20mm edge, 3 finger drag. 4 x limit boulder problems on the MoonBoard

F - Rest

S - Knee rehab in the gym

S - Snowy bouldering on the grit ( managed to get 4 problems in before the sideways snow started...Mother's Cap Back Wall (f5), Thin Wall (f6A+), Conan the Librarian (f6B+), Oyster Cap Start (f6A+) - everything felt a touch tricky with cold fingers and snowy holds

Plan for next week:

No climbing sessions as my tennis elbow is playing up

M - Rest (& icing the elbow)

T - Knee rehab, core exercises & elbow exercises

W - Zwift interval session

T - Rest & elbow exercises

F - Rest & elbow exercises

S - A day on the grit (elbow permitting)

S - rest

Mon. 10km run

Tues. Short burbage session. Did Undercut Slopers Eliminate (f7A) warming up then tried my usual round of things that I'd normally consider with my grade and can't do. Decided to scratch fallen slab arete eliminate and submergence off the to do list. I think I've spent long enough failing there and fancy something different.

Wed and Thurs. Amazing looking grit conditions and not too tired after yesterday but unfortunately Mrs Swede was ill so had to stay in. Managed a 5km run each day to drop off/ collect the car from MOT.

Fri. Shrugs, 6x max hangs (+24kgs). 6 sets of repeaters (first 3 with +5kgs, last 3 body weight). 5x5 pull ups, 3x10 press ups.

Sat. Shrugs, 3x10 press ups, crimpd compression and tension, 5x5 pull ups, 2x10mins continuous easy climbing.

Sun. Warmed up for fingerboarding but wasn't feeling it so did some work to make space for a wall session tomorrow eve.

Interesting discussion on the 'nestling'. When I'm struggling I think I nestle the pinky rather than the index finger. It definitely makes a difference and I wonder if my current unhappy pinky is from that? 

It’s interesting because “old skool” to me means “fingers and footwork”, not “campus and shoulders”!
 

I always thought it was more “indoor” than Cheddar, the obvious nearby comparator (the right kind of length and style to be something you could train for indoors fairly well). 
 

I found Cheddar and Malham fairly transferable, both lots of undercuts and sidepulls.

'old school' means fingers and footwork to me too. I've not done much of the sport at brean but the beach traverses are very fingers and footwork. 

The trad is WILD there. I've only done a handful of the routes up to HVS but the old belay stakes are long gone and it's miles back to the next rock outcrop. I had to pull up one rope and tie it to the other so I could run it back to a solid belay. I remember taking harnesses off in the car park afterwards and some sport climbers asking 'were you the guys doing trad across the grass at the top?' Don't let that put you off though, it was great!

Thanks SSB. Yes, that kind of might onsight / might not level - around plus-or-minus 6c for me - is a big hole in my pyramid. I did intend to address it this summer, but then let myself get sucked into projecting instead. 

STG: Survive Lockdown Number Three with sanity intact, probably
MTG: 1H 2022: onsight 6c+
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: Half an hour step-ups & jogging - preparation for another attempt at running as lockdown activity
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. Very poor session - not feeling strong (unsurprisingly) and distracted both by the threat of imminent lockdown (again) and a shit situation I've walked into on my return to work. But didn't want to miss what looks like one of my last few sessions for the time being. It doesn't particularly matter how deep of a recovery hole I dig at this point.
W:    Half an hour stretching & mobility. Oh dearie. All climbing and no stretching makes Alan a stiff boy.
T: Half an hour step-ups & jogging - running resumption day two
F: Spent the evening with my son in A&E with a crocked ankle after a hard catch from his mate at the wall. Nothing broken or fully torn, six weeks strapped up - hope this doesn't completely torpedo his newly re-found enthusiasm for climbing. And a reminder for me how fortunate I am to mostly climb with highly reliable and competent belayers.
S: 
S: Walls still open but now we need a vaccination certificate AND a test to get in. Decided I couldn't be arsed. 45 minutes step-ups/jogging instead.

Hmm. Realistically *should* have just planned a deload week. Not feeling too generally physically tired or broken after the holiday, but I do have a tweaked index finger. That, plus tighter covid restrictions with the imminent threat of a third lockdown, and a bad situation at work that brewed up during my absence, have made it very difficult to focus or get motivated.

Many thanks for intro stats.

Pills seemed to have worked and by the wknd was back firing on all cylinders.  Only a matter of time before Squiggle brings home the next wave of snot from nursery though...?

Week 47

M – Rest

T – Very squeezed in session. 15min board warm up. 2 progressive hangs, then 6x 10s max-hangs @BW+57kg with 2.5min rest. 45min later back inside and back to baby wrangling.

W – Rest

T – Lunchtime "Board 10". 5x 7A+/B & 5x 7C/+. Again got up just one of the hard ones, but I think that's the point of this projecting style session.

F – Rest.

S – Gorge; BALTIC! Tried warming up. Spent 15min gluing wobbly pinch hold on Be Ruthless then tried to get warm again.

Did new highball finish from Be Ruthless/Pantys Down jug Sinful (f6C+). Re-worked the moves and then over the course of 90min had 5x RP goes at linking Be Ruthless into that. Eventually succeeding to give Be Ruthless and Sinful (f7C+).  Brief play on Fat Bottomed Girls (V11) and found an extra hold, but still think it’s 8A+ minimum.  Quick 1st go RP of Pantys Down and Sinful (f7B).  3 bleeding tips by home-time where they’d gone thin on the board but worth it for 3x FA. Couple of videos here:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWyMzd8IDiw/ 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CW0Rk55D-Sv/

S – Skin friendly shoulder rehab and conditioning.  

Cheers, all good to go post jab. The week gone by however posted a whole new challenge!

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim. Went out for a run in the evening whilst youngest daughter was at swim training. Got 2km in and tripped on a manhole cover and went flying. Skinned my hands and knees and hurt my big toe. Hobbled back to the car and sat waiting for swim training to finish whilst feeling my trainer gradually soak through with blood. Got home to get my shoes off to find a vertical split down the tip of my big toe!

Tuesday, rest

Wednesday, gentle 5k run. Not hurting too much

Thursday, stretch class cancelled at lunchtime, 5k run in the evening

Friday, 1km swim

Weekend spent ferrying kids around, Christmas shopping and visiting mate who had a heart attack.

Another tough week with work, but now beginning to calm down, so hope I can get back to some sort of regular routine.

Only two sessions this week - Thursday did 40 pull ups doing double pyramid 2, 4, 6, 8 plus 10* 7 sets of push ups all on a one minute interval (didn't have much time).  Also managed some stretching, but really needs more time so that I can approach it more carefully.

Wall visit Friday and managed nine long routes at Stockport mostly 6a - 6b.  All felt quite tough and stamina definitely lacking, but when I checked it was five weeks since my last climbing, so not surprising really.

I know this is early reporting, but I'm excited to get something done on a Tuesday, so managed 6*10 secs max hangs at plus 15.9kg, stretching and 50 push ups.  Usually I am too knackered after work down south and a drive back, but felt OK.   

Yo. Thanks for the stats SSB. 

Yep, run was one of the legs of the Cleveland way, finishing at home. Was pretty cool to start at the seaside and finish on the moors, watching the terrain change as I moved inland and up.

I'll give you a shout about a Masson sesh. But this week is going to be all about the real thing!!! First bit of Scottish winter in 22 months coming up (unless the forecast is wrong!).

Week 47:

Rubbish week -mostly lurgy. Although it was supposed to be a deload week, so maybe not the end of the world.

M: Lurgy.

T: Lurgy

W: Prehab.

T: Fingerboarding and TRX. 

F: Prehab.

S: Fingerboarding and TRX.

S: Rest.

Week 48:

2 x Winter Climbing (Braap, braap!)

1 x Run

1 x Strength

3 x Prehab

STGs (end 2021):

Heavens Above (TICK!)

Chelly Express (TICK!)

White wall (M8) 

Run all segments of the Cleveland Way (4/9)

MTGs (end March 22):

Lots of Scottish mixed at VI and VII

Something long, hard and suffery in the Alps.

Those Breen topouts are horrifying!

It seems like the angle of the route doesn't change, but the rock just turns to grass! I have a distinct memory of using my nut key like some sort of old school ice dagger, stabbing it in to the grass to try and get enough purchase to keep going upwards!

And trying to ignore the fact that I was so far above the rock (and last runner) that slipping down the grass would mean going most of the length of the route. The terror!

If there was only climbers to consider I think bolted lower offs would be the way forward.  That won't happen though as they wont want us to drop rocks on the beach goers who spend far more money there!

That's good initiative. Did you take the tick, or mark it down as an aid ascent?

Ruckle tactics but without the knowledge of a stake to aim for!

Meant to reply to this... I haven't done as many as SSB I don't think, but the only one I'd consider soft was Nudas Tartan at crag of the same name. It got 7B+ in all the guidebooks when I did it 4-5 years ago although it has always been 7B on UKC. I'd say it's probably a bit easier than T crack...

You can also combine it with the 7A there, which is actually more like Fr7a and introduces you to the moves at the end of Nudas. The climbing is good on both as long as the crag isn't condensed.

Nudas is a very cool venue to be fair, I'd been one a while back and not really returned since, especially as now I'm a bit more competent in the low-mid F7s (not necessarily the pumpy ones though!).

I assume the conditions are a bit fickle, being sheltered east-facing lime, but might be worth a visit after a dry spell in spring?

I reckon a mixed grade would work… M6 R X  

It suffers badly from condensation sometimes, not necessarily when crags further north do though. Worth watching humidity levels I think. Otherwise it can be in condition much of the year I think, but I've only actually been about three times so by no means an expert.

I think this is most of the Peak (ish) 7B+s I've done and my thoughts.

Moffatrocity at crag X - brick hard, probably 7C

Jerry's into Pink Indian at crag X - also brick hard, found it harder than moffatrocity

Enity at Roche Abbey - top pick, bottom of the grade

Full circuit at Odin Cave - one of mine, I only know of Ally that has repeated it.  low/mid 7B+ take two knee pads and some foil incase the start crimp is wet

Blind Date at Burbage North - needs good conditions and good skin, i found it hard but i dont think it is too bad if you catch it in good conditions.

Blind Ali also at Burbage - preferred this, take a kneepad, one leg length dependent move, easier if tall.

Wee Dimension at the Tor - not low in the grade but really good and rarely done, definitely needs a spot and plenty of pads, its not high but awkward fall position.

Jerrys both ways at Blackwell Dale - pumpy as F.

Powerhump at the Tor - not much harder than rattle and hump the hard way.    

Shit at Higgar tor - another top pick, used to get 7C but don't let that put you off, there is a good bit for your thumb just below where your fingers go, I got my feet high and went static to the top, you might do this is a session.  Gets afternoon shade.

Glock Extension at Anston Stones - very doable with good beta, pull on and pop at the start don't try and go static, make sure you practise the mantle at the end before you get there pumped!

Cave Problem at the Tor - soft at the grade, warm your knee up before you use the heel toe.

Perverse Killer at the Tor - silly link up and probably 7B now the start is easier, due a downgrade.

A good mix of grit and lime, and pumpy and powerful! Good notes. Shit @ Higgar has been sort of on my radar a bit but never got round to checking it out. Much appreciated!

There are 3 other problems at low 7s on the same buttress so worth a visit even if it takes a while to get Shit dialled!  Some people campus to the high right handhold but I found a left toe.

Well, at around the time I did Moffatrocity, I spent 3 sessions trying Rattle and Hump easy way, hard way, any which way, and it was impossible! So I think that makes Powerhumps pretty hard !

I wouldn't say Moff is close to 7C. I'd recommend it to someone who likes traverses and likes limestone with bigger holds. It was the first thing I properly worked though (10 sessions) and I had it really well wired to the extent that Jericho Road was a warm up, so perhaps I have a poor perspective on it. It did take me longer than Flatworld which I did at similar time (also steady at 7B+ if conditions are very good).

Edit to add: I would agree Jerry's in to Pink Indian's must be hard. Pink Indian's I thought was steady for 7B but Jerry's is pretty hard as an intro. And other Jerry's both ways...yer. I used them for warming up when working PiB but could never have done both ways without a rest.

Good list.

The easy way is ok with good beta (there's quite a specific way of holding the left hand ratty edge). The hard way is always hard but I didn't think starting from powerband added that much more. I certainly found it easier than either of the crag x problems. 

Thanks SSB!

I missed last week and am in danger of doing so again if I don’t take the chance now. Currently in Edinburgh on a weekend away. Off to ratho later. 

Work has been bonkers for the last two weeks as I come to the end of my job and start my next. This move is going reduce my driving by hundreds of miles a week and free up time for me to devote to the climbing physio and climbing.

The last couple of weeks have had some really good Boulder sessions and some dreadful route sessions. Some days I’ve just crashed and not had the energy to do stuff. I’ve entered the WBL’s at Boulder UK, Kendal and Lancaster. Good fun and try hard. 

I’ve passed up the chance of bouldering a couple of times as I have an A4 tweak that I don’t know how I did and it’s taking a long time to settle. That’s probably because I keep pulling hard on it…..

I’ve been to the gym sporadically. 

Next week should be the last hard week. I feel like I’ve kept stuff ticking over during a very busy time and am looking forward to pushing on when I get the time.

I was going to set up a WhatsApp group in the new year with a view to getting folk over for a meet up. I guess I should do so earlier as I’d be happy to put people up if Welsh winter climbing ever becomes a thing again  - let me know if interested. Even if it doesn’t Clogwyn Manod is my closest local crag for anyone who enjoys a bit of dry tooling. 
Regarding training during the week I managed one Depot visit where I confined myself to blacks as I felt a bit stiff for some reason. Saturday morning I inexplicably woke up with a stiff neck which got worse through the day until I reached the point where certain movement was agony and my entire upper body was immobile.