UKC

/ UKC FitClub 578

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guy127917 - on 15 Apr 2018

 

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

 

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fitclub_577-682706

 

You can look back at your previous posts here (to some extent… it’s still a work in progress, this now goes back to FC500): http://ukc-fitclub-user-posts.s3-website.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/users.html

 

Si dH: Sounds like a great trip, congrats on getting the 7B tick!

AJM: Glad you enjoyed Font, thanks for the lessons.

Cyan: Good work getting some session in whilst recovering from the injury, hows the knee feeling this week?

MauraLorrissey: Nice work on the leading front! What sort of style was the 23?

AlanLittle: Interesting reading your goal pondering last week, I’d be interested to hear a bit about what you mean by ‘fit enough to make it worthwhile’ going to Kalymnos- that points to having quite a strong objective for the trip etc.

Dandan82: Congrats on another good comp performance, and two 7bs onsight in a day! Any interesting info on how that part of your elbow issue was isolated/diagnosed?

Bones: How did the daily stretching/yoga go? Good work on the hills this week btw!

hms: Maybe you should provide fitclub a regular word of the week! 

Ally Smith: So you’re like Britains answer to this guy? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cYAWnWwVgA

thesheep: 6.5mins for 400m swim seems fairly fast to me for an easy pace, have you ever done a timed mile?

Brodes: The QL muscle is a new one to me, I learn something here every week!

Powderpuff: Still feeling fatigued from Monday on a Thursday sounds like a warning sign that you are not recovering well- you might be able to make some gains by looking at recovery factors- sleep, diet, stress etc?

Tom Green: I was so sure you were going to do your second core session last week! How was grit round 2?

guy127917: Keep up the work rate!

biscuit: You might find this interesting- http://toppodcast.com/show-detail/?showId=2438253 They talk about a similar idea- practicing for your race by doing the elevation gain over several days. 

Mrchewy: What did you get done in the land of excellent mountains and chocolate?

Richard Popp: Sounds stressful, hopefully getting outside will help put training etc in perspective?

Just Tintin: Congratulations on the WBL placing, good to have a solid goal for the year (though I don’t think you are short of them!) 

Climbthatpitch: “without strength, there is nothing to endure”

Tyler: Looking forward to a trip report..

 

 

AWOL: mattrm, planetmarshall, Ardo, the fasting, Andy Nelson

 

Si dH - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. It was good and I'm psyched to go back again. I've been trying to work out whether a solo lightning 3-day trip to Font in autumn would be doable from Derby with only one day's holiday...

STGs (April-June):

7B in Font (tick - Pensees Cachees) 

The Mentalist

Eastwood Traverse

 

MTGs (July-November):

 

3x7B/+s from North Wales Rock (recommendations welcome that can be done on my own with 3-4 pads and a modest walk-in.) 

Caviar 

Powerband (stretch goal...) 

 

LTGs:

I'd definitely like to climb 7B+ on my next Font trip. 

Powerband if not in 2018. 

 

I've set myself an experimental training plan for the next 5-6 weeks to keep me focused. It involves TRX on a Monday, some of Dan's recommended finger leans off a bar followed by a bouldering session on a Tuesday, rest on a Wednesday, a pocket repeater based fingerboard session on Thursday with more TRX and some kettlebells mixed in, and then on Friday/ Saturday/ Sunday, one rest day, one day outside and one doing a relatively short one arm max hang session, the order of these being determined by which day I go outside.

I started the above on Thursday this week. The start of the week I did nothing other than eat loads of food feeling a bit demotivated and tired (post holiday blues) but feeling better again now.

The aim of the above is primarily to improve pocket strength and keep working on shoulder/core strength while maintaining the rest. I also want to generally increase the number of days on which I am 'active' as I'm concerned my ability to exercise much on consecutive days has started to drop and it's really easy to get lazy with a baby and no sleep.

 

M: nothing

T: nothing, over-ate for no reason.

W: nothing, over-ate again. Got in trouble for eating the entire week's worth of sandwich fillings as an evening snack.

T: Good fingerboard session. I did 2 rounds of 5 sets of 6 x 7/3 repeaters on front/back 3 18mm edge, middle/front 2 middle (25 mm?) Pocket and back 2 pocket. No added weight. With back 3, front 2 and back 2 I failed around the last or penultimate rep pn the second round. With front 3 I probably could have added a few kg. In between the sets above I did 4 rounds of TRX exercises (ie reverse flies, low rows, IYWs) and 4 x 10 kettlebell swings.

F: Short max hang session. 3 times 10 seconds on each arm on the good bm2000 pockets forcing myself to be front with 7 kg taken off, then 3 x 10 seconds on the bm2000 20mm edge ('normal' 1 arm rotation) with 9 kg taken off. I'd like to work up to doing most of my max hangs front on vs side on, as a better shoulder exercise.

S: rest

S: short session out at Eastwood trying the traverse. Conditions were fairly meh but I managed to get through to the final couple of moves twice - fairly happy with this given I'm still heavy at the moment.

 

Feeling much better about my week than I did by Wednesday night, although currently stressed about a sick baby.

 

Not sure whether the short term focus outside is going to be Eastwood or the Mentalist, it all depends on the weather.

 

Si

Post edited at 19:39
AlanLittle - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> AlanLittle: Interesting reading your goal pondering last week, I’d be interested to hear a bit about what you mean by ‘fit enough to make it worthwhile’ going to Kalymnos- that points to having quite a strong objective for the trip etc.

What I mean is I can afford - in terms of days off work, days away from family, money for flight & accommodation etc - one big climbing trip per year. So that's also where I'm aiming to peak in terms of the year's performance goals. 

Last year's Kaly trip was - l won't say a complete failure, but certainly disappointing from that perspective. So for the return visit I want to give myself a decent chance of being confident and on form. Which I am anything but at the moment.

 
AlanLittle - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG: As per Dan's advice last week: Strength Phase. 7A boulder project 

MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems

LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

 

M: 

T: Wall, Boulderwelt with the lad. Warmed up on easy to moderate problems, then trying to find the right level for a limit bouldering project. Don't really know how to dial this in - found something on which it turns out I'm close after half a dozen goes, but anything harder just feels so impossible as not to be worth even trying.

W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Easing back into some aerobic mileage: 10 routes up to 6b 

T: Bike one hour

F: Wall, Boulderwelt. Circuits. A bit of a shocker: not at all recovered from Wednesday, even though Wednesday didn't feel like a hard session. Bailed early. Looking over my training log, I see that I had three nights of only six hours sleep this week*. That won't have helped with the recovery.

S: 45 minutes shoulders, elbows, wrist extensors

S: Sudelfeld, 7A boulder project in the morning. Looked at a different sequence to the one I tried last week, and did all the moves on it, but it's so much easier that I couldn't possibly take the grade with a clear conscience. Such are the tribulations of having a project at an obscure locals' area without having a local to tell you the rules. The original sequence was both more aesthetic and plausibly hard; rain stopped play before  could go back to trying it.

Then took my son to Boulderwelt in the evening. My would-be project from Tuesday has been taken down, bugger. Having spent the morning on slightly overhanging crimps, now did some roof jugs & some teetery slabs. And some youth coaching. 

 

(*) Apologies to FCers with small children, for whom six hours sleep in one go might seem like a distant aspirational dream. I currently have the opposite problem with an adolescent in the house: have to plan my weekend mornings with several hours of personal stuff I can get done before it finally emerges from its lair and the family activities can commence.

TheFasting on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Sorry, I've been AWOL for a while. Big things happened in climbing, exam things happened to keep me from logging.

Highlights:

Week 575:

Went to  Jaklefoss again and climbed some ice. I first did an onsight lead of a WI3 variation. Then when I toproped a WI3+ variation to pre-inspect and figure out how the ice was before leading it, I saw there was a hole in the snow on the top of a buttress-like formation. I could see some water running behind it, so I dug deeper and stuck my head in, and saw this https://www.instagram.com/p/BgwDpkOHRfy/?taken-by=eventyrinnen . It was completely hollow with a waterfall inside. So I didn't lead that one.

Week 576:

Went to  Kolsås and climbed some trad. Didn't feel like leading quite yet so I followed on my old trad PR Hollywood (n4+) and Borchgrevinks crack (n5), which I wanted to try before leading leater in the season. Also toproped Bollywood (n5), another trad project. Fell once on Bollywood and then did the crux next thing, and did Borchgrevinks somewhat easily.

Week 577:

One last trip to Rjukan. Was going to try Rjukanfossen (WI-4), but it seemed to have sprung a leak high on the route. Instead we did Nedre Svingfoss (WI-3), which felt more serious than I was expecting, and Lettvann (WI-2) for an easy WI2 multipitch. True to form I ended up finding a 20 meter section of unprotectable snow slab with water running behind it for my lead.

Week 578:

Thursday:

Went bouldering in the snow. Found some dry boulders, and did my first highball-ish (8 meters or so) boulder with Pejes første problem (f5+). Then I got a new outdoor flash PR with White Lightning (f6B).

Sunday:

Something very big happened. We went multipitch trad climbing at  Vardåsen, aiming to do Solosvaet (n5-) which would have been a trad PR in itself. It was wet so I decided to give the route next to it (Ich hatte (viel bekummernis) (n6)) a go, figuring I might fall but I should probably fall on trad at some point anyway, and it looked doable. Run out in the beginning. And I sent it.

It's graded a Norwegian 6. Which is an F6a+/5.10c! That's E1 too isn't it? (checked the chart now, apparently it's E2?) My old PR was F4c. So I PRed trad by 5 grades, and multipitch trad by 7 grades! I have a good feeling about this season... Considering I just climbed a grade above my stretch trad goal for the season on my second outing.

Post edited at 20:24
AJM - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

Nice job! 6a+/10c is potentially E2 (fuzzy conversation boundaries, obviously, but potentially)

Si dH - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to AlanLittle: 

> T: Wall, Boulderwelt with the lad. Warmed up on easy to moderate problems, then trying to find the right level for a limit bouldering project. Don't really know how to dial this in - found something on which it turns out I'm close after half a dozen goes, but anything harder just feels so impossible as not to be worth even trying.

As a starter, try looking for something 5 or 6 moves long (ie not a one move wonder and not a power endurance problem) which ideally you can step on to in order to work all or most of the moves individually. If you can find something where each individual move from fully rested feels like it will take you 5-6 goes to do, rather than the whole thing, then you'll probably find that linking sequences together and eventually linking them in a one-er will take at least a couple of sessions. Start off working all the moves individually, then 2-3 move sequences, then the entire thing, like you would a route. Then thats certainly moving in the right direction.

Edit: and rest at least a couple of minutes between every serious attempt at a hard move even if you just pull on and fall straight off again. 

Post edited at 20:28
TheFasting on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to AJM:

It's a bit runout too so I guess that plays a role in the british trad grades. But it's not that all the way, just the first half or so. But there's a bolt right above the anchor which is there to avoid factor 2 falls I guess since there's not much potential for pro right above the anchor, so maybe in the more strict UK culture it wouldn't count as trad? I don't know much about that, but for me it doesn't matter that I had one bolt at 2 meters when the route was 42 meters long.

Post edited at 20:29
AJM - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

Trad in the uk definition includes a variety of mixed gear stuff with some bolts or other fixed gear (potentially with trad gear as well, but some slate routes for example would have only bolts just very widely spaced and get an E grade). 1 bolt just above the belay in itself doesn't make a route a sport route!

Bones [:B - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Bones: How did the daily stretching/yoga go? Good work on the hills this week btw!

hmmmmmm

Just come home from a great weekend back on rock in Portland. Really enjoyed KitKat and Shit Happens Actually. Ticked a couple of new climbs, and finished some from last year but mainly created new projects. I haven’t stuck to plan this week as I planned badly and then prioritised work stuff which took up a lot of time but I will sort that this week.

Base phase - week 1 actual:
Aerobic activity - 418 mins
Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stairmaster) time - 272  mins
Climbing sessions - 1 (plus two days)
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Max strength sessions - 0 - should have been 2

PLAN:
Base phase - week 2 plan:
Aerobic activity - 367 mins
Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stairmaster) time - 277 mins
Climbing sessions - 2
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Max strength sessions - 2 

My current amended plan is:
- two max strength and killer core sessions per week (well fuelled and rested) - did not do these this week as I planned my week very badly.
- two additional sessions to build more on weaknesses e.g. squat/box step-up/hanging leg raise
- daily stretching - possibly yoga sessions - to work on tight neck, shoulders and legs - again did not do this
- long hours zone 1/2 as before but more hills to improve aerobic endurance (fasted) - had a great week for aerobic
- 2-3 runs per week because I think they are helping my aerobic fitness even if Housey and Johnston says not - plus I like them
- as many climbing sessions as I can humanly do (between 2 and 5 per week)

Benchmarks:
Boulder grade max: V4
Lead climb max: 6c+
Top-rope max (it does count): 7a
Weighted pull-top max: 8.75kg x 1 rep
Max bench press: tbc
Max deadlift: tbc

Monday: treadmill zone 1/2, 2.5 miles, 62 mins (24:09min/mi), 487m (think incline 15) avHR 140bpm maxHR 156bpm (z2-41%, z1-55%).
Lead climb session which made me feel like I very much need to work on my endurance.

Tuesday: 1hr zone1/2 stairmaster - avHR 148bpm maxHR 159bpm (z3 1%, z2 56%, z1 43%) level 4/5 (40:20). Been having headaches/migraines again and sacked off bouldering Tuesday - sorry Cyan  

Wednesday: treadmill zone 1/2, 2.5 miles, 60 mins (24min/mi), avHR 143bpm maxHR 157bpm (z3-1%, z2-24%, z1-75%) 

Thursday: rest

Friday: climbing on Portland, Cuttings - Enjoyed leading, fell/rested a few routes (mainly tr) that I would like to go back to next time. Felt really good to be back on rock. Endurance actually seemed good, much better than it did inside on Monday. 

Saturday: Blacknor Beach - onsighted a 5c which was pretty chossy and crappy rock but I felt quite happy picking my way up it very slowly! Loved climbing Shit Happens, Actually and Kit Kat. Will do KitKat on lead soon. Very excited to go back to Portland in a few weeks now that I have got my climbing legs back.

Sunday: Running/walking around Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door - 9.39 miles, 2:26hrs (15:34min/mi), avHR 168bpm maxHR 188bpm (z5-1%, z4-34%, z3-46%, z2-12%, z1-7%) - very hilly - another sick day due to very stiff shoulders and neck - another reason to stretch this week and try to sort out my headaches.

STG:
???To enjoy lead climbing, take the pressure off and have fun - did lots this week
Fall practice each rope session - no falls
To plan my week every Sunday - yes
To keep a record of benchmarks in climbing and gym work - mainly

 

TheFasting on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to AJM:

Aha! Well I wasn't sure quite how strict some people would interpret what a trad route is. Although it doesn't matter to me, personally I consider it a trad route obviously. Now what's considered a "bold" route I bet would be a longer discussion. It had a section of maybe 6-8m without any protection, before you get to a monopocket I managed to get a tricam into, for the rest it seemed like there was enough protection placements.

Ardo - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Excellent time in Provence and will definitely go back, this year or next. This week is a recovery week, (go to a gig, drink beer, eat too much), apart from a sport route today at Stoney.

Next week will be a transition week, (no beer, eat less, move more), before new training phase.

Would recommend the course: climbing, coaching and food all spot on.

mattrm - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 7lbs

M - 50 dish tucks

T - Nowt

W - 30 dish tucks

T - 20 routes at the Rec

F - S - Lots o pain...

Great start to the week, but it's (literally) been a right pain the last few days.  We had a nice family day yesterday out for a walk around a local nature reserve.  Then today has just been a day of chilling around the house.  I had been thinking of going out for a run, but I just want things to calm down a bit.  However it was great to get up to 20 routes at the wall.  Very happy about that.

 

guy127917 - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Monday: Max strength session- bench press max back to 100kg, 5x5 100kg squats, pullups 3x3x24kg. Was challenged to do a muscle up, and succeeded.

Tuesday: 1 hour on the stairmaster in z1, 45 minutes z1/2 run, 5x10mins ARC, 45 minutes z4 run

Wednesday: 2:20 Z2-4 run

Thursday: 1 hour on the stairmaster in z1, 45 minutes z1/2 run

Friday: Went to Windspit Quarry, looked awful and wet, so to the Cuttings. 6 pitches onsight, highlight was Mousefolk (6c)

Saturday: 6 long pitches at Blacknor Central. Favourites were When This Hits the Fan (6b+) and Kit Kat (6b). Took a nice whip off Dust In The Wind (5c) when a hold I was laybacking on exploded off the wall. 

Sunday: Trail run/walk at Lulworth 2:28, 16.6km 660m ascent. 

 

Fun week with some good running distance. Felt good to be back on the rock in Portland, and I felt strong and confident- just need some spring projects now!

Edit: I picked up a finger injury a couple of weeks ago- definitely felt it when crimping etc the last two weekends. Haven't done anything specific about it, wondering if I should...

 

Post edited at 21:47
AJM - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers guy. A quiet week this week - needed to let various skin holes heal but also just got lost in return to work faff and catching up at home faff. Weekend was Dartmoor, but poor conditions (wet southerly wind, cold/wet on Friday, wall to wall fog Saturday and rain/fog today meant a weekend of eating and a bit of walking rather than crushing. Had a fun wall trip today on the way back.

This is the end, I think, of what I’d listed as my winter boulder phase. Key goals included  some roped stuff, of which I did none but realistically exp3cted to do little. Training goals were a >90% hang on the lattice rung, which I smashed (nearly 93%) but with more assistance from the weight end than I might have hoped, and improvements in shoulder strength which I think I got, felt reasonably good in terms of progress on the flies and on shouldery problems.

The main outdoor goal was a 7B pyramid over a range of styles , of which I missed the 7B and a 7A+,although I overfilled on 7As. I think the pyramid did get me on harder problems in a way a “lots of 7s” goal might not have done. So whilst I didn’t get anything ticked I made decent progress on Pensees Cachees and on Dancing Queen and I had a few really good sessions getting close to Force Majeure too. Would have been nice to tick at least one of the three, but they’re all harder than anything I’ve done before so I guess I should be realistic - one is a holiday project, one a minimum of a weekend project and the local one (Force Majeure) is conditionsy down at sea level. I’ve not made it easy on that front, although FM is for me leagues easier than Workshy even if the latter is probably more reliable.

Not quite sure next. Still trying to piece together a team for an autumn trip which would give focus to the next block, but either way want to do some roped and dws stuff this year. So I imagine I might keep the bouldering ticking over at least until the days get long enough for after work roped stuff to be easier, and throw myself into some aerobic base training for a while. Desperately unfit so this will hurt! Hopefully sort out a Lattice self assessment to give me some baseline in the next few weeks to track against.

Probably need some more detailed thoughts, but aerobic base, fingerboard (maybe some open hand and pocket focus), some body weight and shoulder work still, I’ve quite enjoyed that, and try to get back into the habit of more regular stuff even if it’s things like stretching - I had a good run of building “activity volume” in January but slipped a long way off the boil since then.

MauraLorrissey - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. 
 
The 23 lead was a dynamic but crimpy style climb. Its been fun learning how to use dynamic movement to my benefit. 
 
I didn't climb this week. My finger has been pretty sore so I need to rest it. Will climb later in the week and see how I go. 
 
Also I traveled down to Melbourne and went hiking in a beautiful town called Bright and we got SNOW!! Such a nice change to the 30 degree heat of Brisbane I returned to. 
 
STG/Weekly:
*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) - no progress
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point (currently at 14) - no session
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - no sessions due to finger injury
*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - yes, tick 33kms!
MTG:
*100km cycle - Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered 
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - by June
*Lead "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16 - by June
LTG:
*buy a van by the end of 2018 - still looking 
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 21 / Bunny Bucket Buttress (18) - https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/bells-line-of-road-pierces-pass/route/15444799
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
 
Monday:
AM: back squats (30kg), box jumps / box step ups, wall sits / hanging leg raises
PM: T/R session: finger is quite sore so focused on climbing easier/more overhung routes so as not to crimp on it. 
 
Tuesday: 
AM: River loop, 33.4km, 1hr 28 mins, 323m elevation gain
 
Wednesday:
AM: dumbbell arm mobility warm up / chest press 35kg, two-arm cable pull 45kg/ scotty bobs, 12kg ball slams / core exercises
 
Thursday:
AM: block run with and without 9kg ball / hill run with and without kettle bells (12kg) / 10kg sandbag squat & slam, burpee / squat & press (single & double arm) w/8kg kettlebells
 
Friday:
rest/travel day/short walk to a waterfall
 
Saturday:
Mt Feathertop trek (Victoria) - 22km, elevation gain 1,539meters,  approx 5hr 30mins
Yoga with Adriene 
 
Sunday:

rest/travel

MauraLorrissey - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Edit: I picked up a finger injury a couple of weeks ago- definitely felt it when crimping etc the last two weekends. Haven't done anything specific about it, wondering if I should...

 

Let me know if you do... this is what I did to my finger!

hms - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

thanks Guy. Would love to give a clever riposte but am feeling a little vacuous.

M - no cycle commute, bike dead. 2 miles urban walking
T - took D2 back to uni. Circuits session at UCR in the evening, trying to piece together the mid grade circuits. All present agreed that the grades given on the cards are farcical.
W - mechanic mended bike. FB 5/10/5/3 up to +18kg. Rest then 7/3/6/1 x10, first 5 crimping and with assist but fingers started grumbling so second 5 no assist and big slots.
T - cycle commute TCA in evening, before it got busy. Long session on the brand new 5+to 6b set, one where I should be able to do pretty much the lot except any novelty ones. After lots of work managed to scrape to 50%.
F - 2 miles urban walking, core session, TRX, weighted pinches, wrist curls, OHP. 
S - long session at a deserted UCR. 12 routes with warm up/down in pairs, rest in singles. Had planned to get on the only 7b in the centre, but got side-tracked by trying a problematic 7a, os of a new 7a+ (ridiculously over graded) and couple of goes on an excellent but weirdly tricky new 7a. Attempt at some press-ups in the evening - think we better draw a discreet veil over that.
S - Back to uni delivering rest of D2s stuff and being reassuring.

the next week is going to be utterly subsumed by family stuff so will be no more than a tick over on anything else.

Dandan82 - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Dandan82: Congrats on another good comp performance, and two 7bs onsight in a day! Any interesting info on how that part of your elbow issue was isolated/diagnosed?

Cheers Guy!
The diagnosis was done via a bunch of functional movement tests, you know, where the physio puts your arm in some weird apprehension then asks you to flex this or that and feed back any discomfort. It was very clear that it was all in the rotational movement of the wrist, so it's easy to pin it down to the pronator teres as it's the only muscle that controls that movement. 
I've massaged it a few times this week and done the weird new exercise Huffy gave me a couple of times and it's been pretty good. I intentionally worked it hard on Friday with some DIY and some climbing to see how it coped and it was really solid.

M: Rings; Low rows, prone flys, reverse flys, typewriters. The front flys are looking really good now, very happy with progress there. Typewriters are also much less troublesome on the elbow than before.

T: Indoor Boulder; Progressive AnCap; 6 move problem at 75-85%, triples with 30s rest. 6 sets with 4 mins between sets. This session gets harder every time it is done, with 3 seconds less rest between reps and then adding a move every 3 sessions. I set a new woody problem for it and thought I had made it too hard to begin with but managed to complete the full session, so I guess it was just right.
I was mooching around trying some of the new set after the session and decided on a whim to pull onto the campus board, the rungs are pretty big at my local wall but still, I somehow managed to pull a 1-5-8 out of the bag! I was super pleased, i've never got close before. I know it wasn't on tiny fingertip rungs but i'm happy just to have made the movement, and it was pretty flowing too! I can see the logic in keeping campussing and crimp training as two separate things, it doesn't take a genius to step back and see the injury potential in pulling powerful limit moves on tiny crimps, in fact i'm pretty sure i've made a few fingers sore doing just that in the past.

W: Indoor routes; doubles with 30s rest, 6 sets with 10 mins rest. I did this on a 7b+ old comp route but stopped 2 moves from the top to get the right difficulty. I thought it was going to be too hard at first but glad I didn't drop to an easier route as I managed to complete all reps until the 10th rep, when I tore a hold off the wall!
I guess maybe the training is working a bit too well, i've never seen a hold snap completely in half before!

T: Lower body flexibility

F: Outdoor routes; Wallsend, tried the 7b next to the routes I did last week, Stone Cold Sober (7b) I managed to just about onsight it but it's absolute bobbins compared to the surrounding routes, really not worth the effort.
Also pulled on to Sang Froid (7c) which was cleaner than I expected, but it completely baffled me, I couldn't work out any moves for almost the entire 3 bolt crux sequence, it seemed that any solution was going to be a damn sight harder than 7c. Not a speck of chalk on it either. Looking at the description when I got home, I do wonder if perhaps I misread the line as what I did doesn't really match up with what it says, although I don't recall seeing any other bolts on either side. It wasn't super inspiring but perhaps if I was on the wrong line then the correct line is better. We will head back there as Mrs D has an account with Stay Golden so i'm sure I can take another look.

S: Fingerboard; Subbed out the 1 arm session for a 2 arm repeaters to aid elbow recovery. 7/3 x5 at 85% of max hang on AA edge. 4 sets. Did this at +30kg, was hard!

S: Indoor Routes; sacked off the boulder session I was supposed to do as I was going to the wall for Mrs D anyway, did some hard routes instead. The latest 7b/+ is really good with a pumpy finish, going to be really useful for future sessions. No progress on the 7c/+, beta refining still required.

STG: (last week)

* Remember to do breathing exercises on climbing days - TICK
* 100% of 'dive team core' session - FAIL but only as it got dropped from this weeks plan
* 30 second handstand _ FAIL

STG: (next week)

* Remember to do breathing exercises on climbing days -
* 100% of 'dive team core' session -
* 30 second handstand - 

MTG: (next few months)
* Pull on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef in May
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 8a in a day in Margalef in May
* Pick a lattice max moves target for May based on result from last test EDIT- Tom says just try hard!

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 48/150
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 1/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

Climbthatpitch - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

I forgot that quote. Glad you reminded me makes me think I have made the right decision now

Start of this week was hard due to family commitments and issues in work resulting in 12 hour days. Managed to fit what I could in and thought the weekend was going to break me as I planned to do a lot more. I did pull an hour off what I planned to run last night but I have woke up this morning feeling fresh still so really happy about that.

M - 1 hour box steps

T - Max strength

W -45 min box steps

T - Rest

F - 1 hour box steps. Took my boy climbing in the evening. didn't take my shoes and potted around on the boulders and realised how hard everything gets in lose fitting trainers

S - AM 45 min box steps

     Midday - Max Strength

     PM - Run, 14.7km, 8:11 per km, 350 meter accent, HR 135BPM - Did not add no weight to this due to earlier workouts and it felt like running on air I could of kicked it up a few gears but wanted to keep the HR down

S - AM - Indoor climbing at repoint. leading up to 6b+. The E35c crack was good fun and shows I really cant Jam

     PM - Run 13.6km, 8:50 min per km, 35 meters accent HR 133BPM - same route as Saturday but with weight added

I have my overload this week which means trying to fit in 12 hours of running and max strength. Hopefully can fit it all in

 

 

Ally Smith on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Sorry Guy - nothing like that video - I'm neither out on the street, nor anywhere near as stacked as that French weirdo! I am temporarily located in Manchester; no easy access to fingerboard, weights or bikes as the majority of bulky stuff is in storage

Feeling a bit fat and unfit after a few days off climbing. Hoping the weather will be more accommodating this week for after work climbing. Off for a jolly this evening to try and get some sport ticks in the bag.

 

Week 15

M – Got psyched. Got my pads from storage. Got lost leaving Manchester. Got stuck in traffic. Got to Tremerichion. Got rained on. Got my spanked trying to warm-up. Got close. Got denied by a wet pocket. Got unfinished business; 22 Chambers (f7C)

(The psyche continued and went to Breck Road and did 2x 7B and a 7A; 3 problems left here, but will probably need spotters unless I’m feeling bionic). 

Got home rather late!

T – Not too sore on waking, but shoulders feeling worked. After work aero-cap hangs on the doorframe – ouch that’s sharp – pinky blood blister! 7/3/6/1 x12 with 40s plank in each rest @ BW+5kg vest. 3x squat/sit-up/OHP/press-up/rotator cuff conditioning circuit still wearing the 5kg vest. Continuity aero-cap experiment. 7/3/60/0 with lightweight grippers. Didn’t really raise a pump. Did it again later – same result.

W – Stretching only.

T – An-cap triples on lattice dish circuit. Better than before. 8 sets. 12x 1on/1off HI aero-cap on weird 7a. 40s plank in each rest slot – could feel it at the end – much harder to keep feet planted on screw-ons. Short rest 10min LI aero-cap continuity.

F – Rest - stretching, then date night Sushi extravaganza.

S – 30km MTB ride with the lady. Again super impressive progression. Both of us pretty beat up.

S –  The ladies research group annual walk. Meringue, brownie & victoria sponge overload!

 

 

 

the sheep - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> thesheep: 6.5mins for 400m swim seems fairly fast to me for an easy pace, have you ever done a timed mile?

Cheers Guy, not done a timed mile, however a good 1km time for me would be somewhere below 16 minutes. 

Back at work last week so slipping back into the normal swim and commute routine. Week went as follows;

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 1km lunchtime swim and 22km cycle home

Wednesday 1km lunchtime swim and 22km cycle. Managed to crash the bike. Too busy looking down at the rear mech as I was having some issues. front wheel dropped down into the gutter and over the bars I went. Thankfully as its been so wet the verge was nice and soft so my biggest issue was face planting into a bed of nettles. Bike and rider survived the encounter and I was able to cycle the rest of the way home.

Thursday, 1km lunchtime swim

Friday, rest day

Saturday, brick session again. 20km ride at good pace (averaged 28.5km/h so very happy) and then straight out for a 6km run. Went well so just got to survive the race, not long to go now 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3MdwvEa6n4

Sunday, gentle 6km woodland run to remind the legs they can stil work

 

 

Andy Nelson - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hola crew!

I missed the last couple of updates, for good reasons (too much fun being out there) rather than bad reasons (work and life in the way)

I'll spare the day by day updates, but for ref:

Week 575 - three bouldering sessions, three weights 'general strength' sessions, 1 stepper machine session 90 mins, cycle commute 4 days (total 4 hours zone 1 cardio). // 5.5 hours of zone 1 cardio

Week 576 - One gen strength, one bouldering then....three days surfing in Sagres, Portugal. Hammered in big waves for probs 4 hours a day average. Pretty ruined each night. Cross trainning FTW!

Week 577 - Recovery from Sagres, bouldered @BiscuitB1 found an prow problem similar to my Font project. Got it but found it extremely difficult. Compression moves for a tall guy, sigh. Cycle commute as usual. Step machine session 100 minutes

Week 578 - 

M - 25km round trip on bike to B1 to boulder. Good session 

T - cycle commute

W - gen strength session, need to move to mx stength

T - 40minutes treadmill run in a.m. / bouldering hard in pm (V4/5) plus HB session, noticed the lack of recent HB sessions as I found it hard. Not to self, HB needs a genuinely consistent approach.

F - drive to Snowdonia

S- Sub Cniefen rib Yr Gribben, Glyder Fawr back. Gentle pace, lunch picnic etc, Perfect conditions. Took time to pitch the rib, for practice since its been a couple of years since being on real rock etc, though could have happily soloed it. Which is encouraging.

S - Tryfan North Ridge, with all variante! scramble moves sought out and taken. Bristly ridge. Back via Little Tryfan route. Great day out, cut slightly short by partner wanting a reasonable start back home.

(Total time in hills probably about 10 hours)

Recognised the limiting factor in my mtneering is head game and tech skills, not so much fitness at the moment.

In summary, whilst the tracking and recording has been a little less obsessive, progress is happening. Font this weekend !!

Plan for this week: boulder hard tomorrow (Tues), inc. HB Then a couple of Z1 sessions so as to arrive fresh for Font.

Back to Snowdonia following weekend - April 28/th 29th - anyone want a lift from London up there?

 

Brodes - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Another good week, although disappointing that I managed to aggravate my back by doing 20min of gentle weeding.  Damn this tiny back muscle! 

Stats: 2 crossfit classes, and 2 good fingerboarding sessions. 7 pints beer or equiv.

 

Monday. 9 miles bike. Rest. Some gentle hamstring stretching.

 

Tuesday. 18 miles bike, 1 hr CrossFit. Lots of lifting weights above my head. Circuit training, stretching.

 

Weds. 9 miles bike. Rest.

 

Thurs. 18 miles bike. 1 hr of CrossFit: weightlifting technique, and 20min high intensity bodyweight exercises.

1 hour fingerboarding. Experimenting carefully with maximum hangs. Did around 15 hangs of 12s on and 3min off. Managed to hang for 4 seconds on the BM1000 bottom row (medium) 4 finger holds for 4s. 1 pint beer.

 

Friday. 9 miles bike. Rest.

 

Saturday. Rest. Did some gardening (weeding block paving drive/sweeping up), which made my misbehaving back muscle tighten up. Very annoying. 

 

Sunday.  6 lengths swim (with my daughter). Around 1 hour BM1000 hangboarding session: 12* 7/3 repeaters session.

 

Next week I'm going to carry on doing the same stuff, but take even greater care not to upset my tweaked back muscle.

Brodes - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Another good week, although disappointing that I managed to aggravate my back by doing 20min of gentle weeding.  Damn this tiny back muscle! 

Stats: 63miles bike commute, 2 crossfit classes, 2 fingerboard sessions.  And plenty of rests too.

 

Monday. 9 miles bike. Rest. Some gentle hamstring stretching.

 

Tuesday. 18 miles bike, 1 hr CrossFit. Lots of lifting weights above my head. Circuit training, stretching.

 

Weds. 9 miles bike. Rest.

 

Thurs. 18 miles bike. 1 hr of CrossFit: weightlifting technique, and 20min high intensity bodyweight exercises.

1 hour fingerboarding. Experimenting carefully with maximum hangs. Did around 15 hangs of 12s on and 3min off.  Managed to hang for 4 seconds on the BM1000 bottom row (medium) 4 finger holds for 4s.

 

Friday. 9 miles bike. Rest.

 

Saturday. Rest. Did some gardening (weeding block paving drive/sweeping up), which made my misbehaving back muscle tighten up. Very annoying. 

 

Sunday.  6 lengths swim (with my daughter). Around 1 hour BM1000 hangboarding session: 12* 7/3 repeaters session.

 

Next week I'm going to carry on doing the same stuff, but take even greater care not to upset my tweaked back muscle.

Post edited at 18:02
mrchewy - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I went for a great friend's 50th party Guy... and probably drank too much all week. The food was amazing, super friends and one kilo added to my waist!

 

Managed to get out climbing on Wed and Thu, which was brilliant as we went to two new for me crags.

Only top roped but warmed up on a 7a+ that was a bit left shoulder intensive. I did alright I think and then later TR a 7c - only the first 8 or so bolts, which I managed clean at I guess 6b, maybe harder I dunno. After that it got seriously nails for the last couple of bolts and the first move up there would have played havoc with the shoulder, so lowered down. Happy enough, suited me as it was slabby into laybacking and then slab before the top.

The day after, TR a 6b which was fine but usual thing of me needing to find my sequence and later did the first half clean to get to a 6c or +, dunno, but that was way harder. Did fine but I was properly at my limit on a few moves at the top. My core let me down. Super couple of days.

 

Rehab - so the day after the climbing, my shoulder and back were fine but my forearms were solid. My obliques too. This made me right happy! The first time this has happened in two years, so progress is happening. Well good.

 

Hard work for three weeks now, so training of any sort will be hard.  

Post edited at 19:47
Cyan - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hey all

In Font, climbing!!  

Knee behaving very well, not pushing anything but very relieved to be able to enjoy the trip from a climbing perspective.

Tom Green on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Hi All. Thanks as usual Guy.

Yep... poor discipline skipping that post-climbing core session! Which carried over to last week. An annoying week in which I wasn't organised and didn't stick to my week plan. Must be better this week.

Last Week:

M: Road run -40min Z3

T: Rest

W: Trail run -9km at 6:59 avg km, hilly, comfortable Z1/2

T: Away for work

F: Hill sprints. Max strength.

S: Bouldering at Stanage -plenty of mileage up to 6A, with highlight being Bullworker (f6B) a problem that felt completely undoable when I tried it a couple of years ago -chuffed.

S: Rest. 

So only did half the aerobic volume and missed 1xhill sprints, core, max strength and climbing sessions.

 

This Week:

180mins Z1/2

45mins Z3/4

2 x climbing sessions

2 x max strength

2 x core

2 x hill sprints

 

STG/Q2:

E1 on 3+ different rock types Power of the Mekon (E1 5b) Kayak (E1 5b) Californian Arete (E1 4c) Easter Island (E1 5b)

Boulder f6B in Lofoten

Sandstone trail in <10h

MTG/Q3:

El Cap Nose day

New routes in Kyrgyzstan

LTG/Q4:

North Face Original Route (ED1)

Jaz (M8)

 

Post edited at 11:04
Tom Green on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

 ...it finally emerges from its lair...

This made me LOL!

Tom Green on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

Nice one! That's some big jumps forward. Good work.

Tom Green on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

 Took a nice whip off Dust In The Wind (5c) when a hold I was laybacking on exploded off the wall. 

Aptly named then?!

Powderpuff on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Lack of sleep and stress are unavoidable factors of modern life but I do make efforts to counter act them....I could however make more effort to get to the wall earlier to increase the 8 hours I get after a training.

No training last week as i had planned minor surgery on Monday, been on painkillers eversince.... feel not too great but I'm healing slowly. If I feel up to any training this week I'll be pleased 

guy127917 - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to Tom Green:

Indeed, like "suicide wall"

Jamming Dodger on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

Going to restart posting for a few weeks (regular many years ago...) , as i'm in a bit of a "sorting shit out" phase.

I dropped my van off to have its roof done yesterday, so am motorised transport-less for about the next three weeks. It has been booked in and waiting on delivery of the roof for a good couple of months now so i'm mega excited to see it fitted. 

So an ideal time to get my goals and progress down "on paper".

Last week was a bit of a crap one as I was recovering from a horrible chest infection which affected my entire week and stopped me going away last weekend. I seem to be well over it now though, thankfully.

Yesterday: rode 75 miles from Kendal to drop off the van. Me and my co-rider made what felt like a tough ride (for me) that little bit better by stopping off at Fredericks for ice cream. The hardest part was deciding which flavour (Fruit salad and Drumstick lolly).

Then gymnastics in the eve. That was hard as id had a long day and a long ride. 

Today rode to work, (26 miles round trip) and gymnastics again this eve. Despite being (not quite yet) 40, i'm loving it. Its like yoga but 100 times more fun. I find a new muscle every time I go.

Going to ride to work every day this week, then Friday morning Im training it down to cider county with el dawg down south for some beach time, and as the weather is meant to be nice I cant wait already. I think a MTB session may be on the cards too. 

The overall aim is to get back to riding around 200 miles a week, keep shedding the blubber and learn how to do an aerial (hands free cartwheel). Simple pleasures.

Post edited at 15:47
Tyler - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

> Tyler: Looking forward to a trip report..

I wish there was more to report guy! I leave tomorrow having climbed on 8 days so been pretty chilled. My climbing has been disappointing, I've not done a single 7a+ OS never mind a 7b but have done plenty of routes and visited some stellar crags (first time to Sikati Cave and Ghost Kitchen) along with plenty of tazing around on scooters and eating loads of ace food. My hip hasn't really affected my climbing on individual routes but it has meant everything seems an effort and that's partially what's slowed me down.

The only real downer is seeing it so quiet, I don't know if that's unusual but it's a shame to see so many restaurants open but with only one or two tables occupied, hopefully it'll pick up.

In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. I set myself another goal aka threat last weekend. If I’m still living in Oxford in the 2020/21 grit season I have to climb Living in Oxford (E7 7a). I like the idea - either get brave and make a big change or work out how to be Johnny Dawes - that makes leaving seem easier!

Middle Fingers remain tweaky and can’t hang any fingerboard slots where the edge touches proximal phalanx or climb jugs that do the same. Physio appointment booked.

M - core and conditioning

T - rest

W - continuity routes

T - rest

F - climbing unit pinks/oranges/blues 

S - burbage north pottering. Finally got round to doing Knight's Move (HVS 5a). Super soft but super enjoyable.

S - AM clifftop boulder session until it rained. Pretty stiff grading all round there so plenty of projects still.

PM climbing unit more pinks/oranges/blues. 

 

 

 

biscuit - on 21 Apr 2018
In reply to guy127917:

cheers Guy. I know for the BG round they reckon if you can do the 10k of ascent in a week then you e got it in your legs to do it. Similar idea I suppose. 

 

Late post and a quick one. 

Commuted once (not good enough but it wasn’t all laziness) then a 111k 2200m ascent ride round the lakes. Bit annoying as it was supposed to be 3k. We followed a sportive route. Ah well. I very nearly got up hardknott. I reckon I’ve got it in my legs but when my wheel started lifting on the 30% bit another rider got in my way and I unclipped rather than fall. Much much better than last time though. 

One lead climbing sesh. Nothing to write home about. Just ticking over while the focus is on the bike. 

One more big ride before the Fred (100miles and 3000m ascent) and keep up with the commuting is the plan. 

 


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