South Wales Rock

South Wales Rock
Author Matt Woodfield, Alan Rosier, Roy Thomas, Tim Hoddy
Published The Climbers' Club (2020)
ISBN 978-0-957281-58-5



This guide, produced in association with South Wales Climbing Wiki, contains 1500 of the best routes in South Wales. With Limestone escarpments overlooking the mountains, hidden Sandstone quarries for your first steps climbing outside or projecting hard classics, and sea cliffs offering either a big adventure or pleasant day out, it’s hard to beat the variety of climbing on offer.

Featuring trad routes from Diff to E6, sport routes from F4 to F8a+, bouldering and Deep Water Solos, all made easy to find with topos & maps and packed full of inspirational photos throughout.

This is a guide book like no other, a hybrid guide that combines the convenience of a select book with the completeness of a comprehensive guide. We’ve tucked into these pages the best climbing this area has to offer, with links to the South Wales Climbing Wiki that records everything else that’s been climbed. This means no more compromises on book size or information volume and when new routes get put up and old ones fall down, the Wiki will keep you up to date and in the know.

Crags covered by this Guide
Caerphilly crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Abertysswg22Sandstone (hard)SW
Penallta58Sandstone (hard)S
Cardiff crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Sully Island255LimestoneS
Taff's Well118LimestoneW
Taff's Well West59LimestoneN
Gwent crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Crymlyn Quarries55Sandstone (hard)W
Cwmcarn Quarry36Sandstone (hard)SW
New Tredegar18Sandstone (hard)?
Ridgeway9Sandstone (hard)SE
Sirhowy78Sandstone (hard)W
Tirpentwys32Sandstone (hard)SW
Tyle y Coch25Sandstone (hard)E
Merthyr Tydfil crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Darren Fawr40Limestone?
Morlais Quarries112LimestoneNW
Twynau Gwynion Quarries57LimestoneNE
Mid Glamorgan crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Bargoed32Sandstone (hard)W
Box Bay100LimestoneW
Neath Port Talbot crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Abbey Buttress27Sandstone (hard)SW
Cilfrew Edge105Sandstone (hard)SE
Crag Craig Fawr11Sandstone (hard)S
Dyffryn47Sandstone (hard)E
Powys crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Llangattock Escarpment (Chwar Pant y Rhiw)94LimestoneNW
Llangattock Escarpment (Craig y Castell)59LimestoneNE
Llangattock Escarpment (Eastern Edge)78LimestoneN
Rhondda Cynon Taff crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Blaenllechau19Sandstone (hard)W
Cwmaman36Sandstone (hard)W
Ferndale78Sandstone (hard)E
Gelli51Sandstone (hard)NW
Mount Pleasant X172Sandstone (hard)W
Mountain Ash82Sandstone (hard)W
Navigation Quarry81Sandstone (hard)SW
Pen Pych12Sandstone (hard)SW
The Darren36Sandstone (hard)SW
The Gap151Sandstone (hard)NE
Trebanog67Sandstone (hard)S
Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar)61Sandstone (hard)NW
Swansea crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Dinas Rock271LimestoneSW
Vale of Glamorgan crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Castle Upon Alun Quarry57LimestoneNE
Ogmore (Main)186LimestoneS
Witches Point224LimestoneSW
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