Rockfax Description
Layback the lower arete precariously on its left-hand side to a ledge on the right. Teeter up to better holds (the crux for shorties) and a romp to the top. Easier for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1976

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Gritual, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

mshorter 25/Jun Lead G/U
with ry
sparkass 25/Jun Lead β
with Mike Shorter, Rob Lovatt, Ry McHenry
Droyd 25/Jun TR O/S
with Jimmy
Patrick Hill 06/Apr Solo RP
with James T
Andy Moles 25/Mar Lead

Ground up with pads, but no chalk or beta. Jumped off the start a couple of times before committing. Was it worth taking the rope?

with Ferdia
Hidden 17/Dec/16 TR rpt
Martin Bagshaw 17/Dec/16 TR RP

Cool to find out what E5 feels like.

Rory_Cummings_NI 29/Nov/16 Solo dnf
Dave Heaton 21/Oct/16 TR
with James Forbes
Hidden 21/Oct/16 TR
will9911 31/Jul/16 2nd β
Wizzy 24/Apr/16 Solo G/U

4th go. V4/5 into very bold 5b/c. Made up to do this ground up! Cheers Stan for the spot

cjd91 28/Feb/16 Lead G/U

Fluffed the onsight, went second go

with phil blue
W d c ??/2016 -

7th go smearing on to arete to start then a long stretch at top, cool route.

Hidden 08/Oct/15 Lead RP
Louishmouis 04/Aug/15 Solo G/U
Ewano 15/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Ballsed it on the ground up and made a mess of my chin. Way too hot

Hidden 15/Jun/15 2nd dnf
CharlieMack 04/Jun/15 TR RP

Second go. Much harder than I thought, two moves I've got to pop for. May be back...

with Shunt
Gambit 17/May/15 Lead RP

Great route, felt so good on the lead https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qq3vhOBpWuE

with OlI
Gambit 14/May/15 TR RP

This will go, just need a cold day and a spotter

with Alone
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 10/May/15 Lead O/S

pleased to onsight this. would have certainly hit the floor from the top crux with my light belayer. scary but great.

with Roisin
bencole ?/May/15 Lead RP
with Dad
NDD 24/Apr/15 Solo G/U

Nice one, wanted to try this for ages. Got the beta off Malcolm.

with Malcolm
malx ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Oct/14 TR O/S
petegunn 27/Oct/14 TR
with Davina
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Solo β
Coops_13 29/Mar/14 TR dog

Tenuous and damp...

Gus 01/Mar/14 Solo
with ben rouse
pie_eater_pete 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with bwestwood
Bennykr 30/Nov/13 Lead RP

Top roped to get warmed up. Climbing is pretty steady

atapper21 30/Nov/13 Lead RP

Top rope to get it sorted, fine route with some tenuous moves!

bwestwood 30/Nov/13 Lead RP
sopaz 05/Oct/13 2nd dog

Epic. Fell on the bottom bit a few times...

with Mackie
admackie 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt

much easier than the hvs I fell off later

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/13 Solo
with Dan McManus
w.pettet-smith 05/Mar/13 Lead

fell off low down first time. found thumb sprag move rather ominous, had to have a word with myself beforehand at that ledge.oh my days. very exciting. first grit e5

with sean
MicheleC 04/Mar/13 Solo O/S
Sidekick 02/Mar/13 Sent
Jay C 02/Mar/13 Lead

Worked it on a top rope, then lead. Awesome route.

with Josh T, LUMC
mark20 02/Mar/13 Sent β
kingholmesy ??/2013 Solo β


J.Wells 15/Nov/12 Solo β
Hidden 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S
BenNorman 11/Nov/12 Solo

Ground up, second go after coming off boulder problem once, felt real smooth apart from slight wobble on big reach at the top, tip toe stuff, buzzing.

pie_eater_pete 27/Oct/12 Lead RP

Couple of goes on top rope just to make sure, then went for the lead. Perfect conditions

with bwestwood
Harry Chaplin 07/Sep/12 Lead RP

Fourth attempt, two of which on top rope

Hidden 05/May/12 TR
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Sent dnf
Ethan 17/Mar/12 Lead


with Ted, Don Walker
alaan 02/Mar/12 Solo O/S

Brilliant and a wee bit scary - longer arms would have been reeeally nice!

Hidden ??/2012 -
pipof747 26/Sep/11 Lead RP
al123 16/Jun/11 Solo

ground up. got a rope lowered by some passing climbers as i was on the ledge when it started raining and i wasnt sure of the next move (cheers to who ever that was). left it for a while then came back and soloed it without much trouble, amazing route, first E5.

Lewis Andrew 16/Apr/11 Solo rpt
i_a_coops 20/Mar/11 Lead

Ground up. Thank god for Jacob's gear!

with Jacob
jacobjacob 20/Mar/11 Lead RP

Ground up. Fell off the boulder problem start then sorted it out second go. Placed about 5 bits of gear less than Ian!

harvie 18/Mar/11 Lead β
with "mad" max the guy from the guide
C coldwell-storry 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Phil Vickers
Guy Wilson 03/Nov/10 TR
with Rick Cotgreave & Gavin Moy
nathanlee 04/Oct/10 Solo O/S

A touch worrying...

with Dom Lee
The old James turnbull ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
FlorianCastagne 25/Sep/10 Lead dog

Ground up ascent after 4 tries in the boulder start before placing the first gear.

with Nathan Rosenfeld
Hidden ?/Apr/10 TR dog
bigie bob 07/Mar/10 Solo O/S
A Downing 31/Jan/10 TR RP
with Ben Monkton
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
nathanmanc 29/Oct/09 Lead RP
dannyboy83 11/Oct/09 Lead RP
with Alice
akhughes 24/Sep/09 Lead β

Excellent route. Difficulties low down and probably only 6a. A good route for the on sight or flash. could easily become ruined with top roping.

with Tony Stone
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Hidden 24/Jul/09 TR dog
Hidden 25/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Solo RP
Dan 85 15/Mar/09 TR
with Lewi, Rich
Lewis Andrew 15/Mar/09 Solo RP

good few attempts on tope rope. got psyched up and went for it. awesome route. glad i did it.

with Rich Armour
john lynch 13/Mar/09 TR

amazing! would love to solo it someday.

with Lewis Andrew, rich armour
liamoloughlin ?/Mar/09 Solo RP

Clean first go on a rope. Fell off first move on lead! Got it second go...

Hidden 21/Feb/09 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead RP
mattcyp88 21/Feb/09 Lead RP

Headpoint. Cleaned on top rope first time.

drysori 13/Feb/08 Solo RP

As the sun set. Sticky grit day it would seem!

Hidden 01/Nov/07 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Oct/07 Solo RP
Ram MkiV 02/Oct/07 Solo O/S

superb moves right from leaving the deck. Was very disappointed to not be able to reach the break having stood up off the ledge. moved feet around and used every mm of reach to piano play into the break whilst battling panic. scary.

Dave Bond 14/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Solo β
BoulderMonster 30/Jun/06 TR RP

fantastic climb must go back and do agin love to lead

Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 15/Jun/05 Lead
with Spence
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo β
Chris Reid 24/Apr/04 Solo O/S
mark s ??/2003 -
tuftynick ??/2001 Solo O/S
with Aide Jebb
Hidden 21/Oct/00 TR
Vince Smedley 09/Oct/00 Solo β
with Anton
Seb Grieve ??/2000 -
sadams 08/Jun/99 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Apr/99 2nd
with Mike Weeks
r0b 14/Apr/99 Solo RP
RossG123 ??/1999 Solo RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with tim russon, James Ibbertson
Laramadness 15/Apr/97 Solo
switch ??/1996 Solo O/S
marconi ??/1996 Lead RP
with Darren T
Davros the Psyched ??/1996 Solo O/S
simes303 ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S

Onsight, no cheating pads.

Laramadness 27/Apr/95 2nd
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Cowflinger ?/May/92 TR
innes ?/Feb/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 TR
Rob Davies ?/Sep/91 TR dog
Stoney Boy 08/Jul/90 Solo

Top Roped it first

Pedro50 07/Jul/87 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1985 Solo RP

Top roped several times, eventually on a slack rope then soloed it.

Hidden ??/1983 Lead
mark-abz 28/Mar/82 TR
with Andy W
KRB 01/Apr/80 Solo O/S

Put all my trust into my EBs and suprised myself this day. Subsequently soloed in a pac-a mac (as you did in those days!

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 38
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set