12m.

Rockfax Description
Layback the lower arete precariously on its left-hand side to a ledge on the right. Teeter up to better holds (the crux for shorties) and a romp to the top. Easier for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1976

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Gritual, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, On Peak Rock

Feedback

UserDateNotes
north country boy 17 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5"11 and found the crux ok, more commitment to standing on the decent smears rather than a long reach! Top half is great, awesome moves and fairly run out!
 
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5"11 and found the crux ok, more commitment to standing on the decent smears rather than a long reach! Top half is great, awesome moves and fairly run out!
Scouse d 26 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'm quite tall(6ft exactly) and the route felt very easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm quite tall(6ft exactly) and the route felt very easy.
TomPR 16 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom arete is definitely the crux - no harder than average 6b. Did it just after soloing The Knock which made the The Knock feel vvvvv easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bottom arete is definitely the crux - no harder than average 6b. Did it just after soloing The Knock which made the The Knock feel vvvvv easy.
Julian W 29 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route and well worth its 3 stars!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route and well worth its 3 stars!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
salix 13 Sep Lead G/U With pads. Watched toph do it smoothly. Took a few falls off the initial moves, lovely once I got the body position figured out. Just tall enough to get a thumb above me for the upper crux.
with Em, Dr Toph
With pads. Watched toph do it smoothly. Took a few falls off the initial moves, lovely once I got the body position figured out. Just tall enough to get a thumb above me for the upper crux.
with Em, Dr Toph
Dr Toph 13 Sep Lead G/U Went first go this time, after backing off the lower crux earlier in the summer. Gear was of debatable worth until after the difficulties. Just my kind of wee route.
with salix
Went first go this time, after backing off the lower crux earlier in the summer. Gear was of debatable worth until after the difficulties. Just my kind of wee route.
with salix
Hidden 13 Sep Lead RP
Dan Arkle 13 Sep 2nd rpt With joe
With joe
Hidden 6 Sep Solo RP
JCAshman 12 Apr Solo Absolute class!
Absolute class!
Andrew1 6 Apr Lead
with Meakin
with Meakin
jimpopeonarope 31 Mar Solo G/U
with Pat Hill
with Pat Hill
Droyd 26 Mar Lead RP One pad for the start, gear placed on lead (at least the bits that didn't fall out). First experiencing of actually headpointing a route.
with Rory Smith
One pad for the start, gear placed on lead (at least the bits that didn't fall out). First experiencing of actually headpointing a route.
with Rory Smith
will rivers 23 Mar Lead G/U
with alex
with alex
Nick1812P 2 May, 2018 Solo O/S Ace route, the arête feels very fluffable and numb fingers made the balancy move at the top exciting.
with Hati , dynoseb
Ace route, the arête feels very fluffable and numb fingers made the balancy move at the top exciting.
with Hati , dynoseb
mshorter 25 Jun, 2017 Lead G/U
with ry
with ry
sparkass 25 Jun, 2017 Lead β Had the knowledge, easy this way. Although you still have to fully commit. Fun.
with mshorter, Rob Lovatt, Ri
Had the knowledge, easy this way. Although you still have to fully commit. Fun.
with mshorter, Rob Lovatt, Ri
Patrick Hill 6 Apr, 2017 Solo RP
with James T
with James T
Andy Moles 25 Mar, 2017 Lead Ground up with pads, but no chalk or beta. Jumped off the start a couple of times before committing. Was it worth taking the rope?
with ferdia
Ground up with pads, but no chalk or beta. Jumped off the start a couple of times before committing. Was it worth taking the rope?
with ferdia
Hidden 17 Dec, 2016 TR rpt
Martin Bagshaw 17 Dec, 2016 TR RP Cool to find out what E5 feels like.
Cool to find out what E5 feels like.
Rory_Cummings_NI 29 Nov, 2016 Solo dnf
with Mike Doyle, charliepickering
with Mike Doyle, charliepickering
Dave Heaton 21 Oct, 2016 TR
with James Forbes
with James Forbes
Hidden 21 Oct, 2016 TR
will9911 31 Jul, 2016 2nd β
Wizzy 24 Apr, 2016 Lead G/U 4th go. V4/5 into very bold 5b/c. Made up to do this ground up! Cheers Stan for the spot
4th go. V4/5 into very bold 5b/c. Made up to do this ground up! Cheers Stan for the spot
cjd91 28 Feb, 2016 Lead G/U Fluffed the onsight, went second go
with phil blue
Fluffed the onsight, went second go
with phil blue
Hidden 8 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
Louishmouis 4 Aug, 2015 Solo G/U
Ewano 15 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf Ballsed it on the ground up and made a mess of my chin. Way too hot
with peat
Ballsed it on the ground up and made a mess of my chin. Way too hot
with peat
Hidden 15 Jun, 2015 2nd dnf
CharlieMack 4 Jun, 2015 TR RP Second go. Much harder than I thought, two moves I've got to pop for. May be back...
with Shunt
Second go. Much harder than I thought, two moves I've got to pop for. May be back...
with Shunt
Gambit 17 May, 2015 Lead RP Great route, felt so good on the lead https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qq3vhOBpWuE
with OlI
Great route, felt so good on the lead https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qq3vhOBpWuE
with OlI
Gambit 14 May, 2015 TR RP This will go, just need a cold day and a spotter
with Alone
This will go, just need a cold day and a spotter
with Alone
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S pleased to onsight this. would have certainly hit the floor from the top crux with my light belayer. scary but great.
with Roisin
pleased to onsight this. would have certainly hit the floor from the top crux with my light belayer. scary but great.
with Roisin
bencole ?May, 2015 Lead RP
NDD 24 Apr, 2015 Solo G/U Nice one, wanted to try this for ages. Got the beta off Malcolm.
with Malcolm
Nice one, wanted to try this for ages. Got the beta off Malcolm.
with Malcolm
malx ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Nov, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 27 Oct, 2014 TR O/S
petegunn 27 Oct, 2014 TR
Hidden 11 Apr, 2014 Solo β
Coops_13 29 Mar, 2014 TR dog Tenuous and damp...
Tenuous and damp...
Gus 1 Mar, 2014 Solo
with ben rouse
with ben rouse
pie_eater_pete 30 Nov, 2013 Lead rpt
with bwestwood
with bwestwood
Bennykr 30 Nov, 2013 Lead RP Top roped to get warmed up. Climbing is pretty steady
Top roped to get warmed up. Climbing is pretty steady
atapper21 30 Nov, 2013 Lead RP Top rope to get it sorted, fine route with some tenuous moves!
Top rope to get it sorted, fine route with some tenuous moves!
bwestwood 30 Nov, 2013 Lead RP
sopaz 5 Oct, 2013 2nd dog Epic. Fell on the bottom bit a few times...
Epic. Fell on the bottom bit a few times...
admackie 5 Oct, 2013 Lead rpt much easier than the hvs I fell off later
much easier than the hvs I fell off later
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Sep, 2013 Solo
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
w.pettet-smith 5 Mar, 2013 Lead fell off low down first time. found thumb sprag move rather ominous, had to have a word with myself beforehand at that ledge.oh my days. very exciting. first grit e5
with sean
fell off low down first time. found thumb sprag move rather ominous, had to have a word with myself beforehand at that ledge.oh my days. very exciting. first grit e5
with sean
MicheleC 4 Mar, 2013 Solo O/S
Sidekick 2 Mar, 2013 Sent
Hidden 2 Mar, 2013 Lead
mark20 2 Mar, 2013 Sent β
kingholmesy ??, 2013 Solo β Awesome.
Awesome.
J.Wells 15 Nov, 2012 Solo β
with liam
with liam
Hidden 15 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
BenNorman 11 Nov, 2012 Solo Ground up, second go after coming off boulder problem once, felt real smooth apart from slight wobble on big reach at the top, tip toe stuff, buzzing.
Ground up, second go after coming off boulder problem once, felt real smooth apart from slight wobble on big reach at the top, tip toe stuff, buzzing.
pie_eater_pete 27 Oct, 2012 Lead RP Couple of goes on top rope just to make sure, then went for the lead. Perfect conditions
with bwestwood
Couple of goes on top rope just to make sure, then went for the lead. Perfect conditions
with bwestwood
Harry Chaplin 7 Sep, 2012 Lead RP Fourth attempt, two of which on top rope
Fourth attempt, two of which on top rope
Hidden 5 May, 2012 TR
Hidden 1 Apr, 2012 Sent dnf
Ethan 17 Mar, 2012 Lead Retro
with Ted, Don Walker
Retro
with Ted, Don Walker
alaan 2 Mar, 2012 Solo O/S Brilliant and a wee bit scary - longer arms would have been reeeally nice!
Brilliant and a wee bit scary - longer arms would have been reeeally nice!
Hidden ??, 2012 -
pipof747 26 Sep, 2011 Lead RP
al123 16 Jun, 2011 Solo ground up. got a rope lowered by some passing climbers as i was on the ledge when it started raining and i wasnt sure of the next move (cheers to who ever that was). left it for a while then came back and soloed it without much trouble, amazing route, first E5.
ground up. got a rope lowered by some passing climbers as i was on the ledge when it started raining and i wasnt sure of the next move (cheers to who ever that was). left it for a while then came back and soloed it without much trouble, amazing route, first E5.
Lewis Andrew 16 Apr, 2011 Solo rpt
i_a_coops 20 Mar, 2011 Lead Ground up. Thank god for Jacob's gear!
Ground up. Thank god for Jacob's gear!
jacobjacob 20 Mar, 2011 Lead RP Ground up. Fell off the boulder problem start then sorted it out second go. Placed about 5 bits of gear less than Ian!
Ground up. Fell off the boulder problem start then sorted it out second go. Placed about 5 bits of gear less than Ian!
harvie 18 Mar, 2011 Lead β
with "mad" max the guy from the guide
with "mad" max the guy from the guide
C coldwell-storry 7 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with Phil Vickers
with Phil Vickers
Guy Wilson 3 Nov, 2010 TR
with Rick Cotgreave & Gavin Moy
with Rick Cotgreave & Gavin Moy
nathanlee 4 Oct, 2010 Solo O/S A touch worrying...
A touch worrying...
The old James turnbull ?Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
FlorianCastagne 25 Sep, 2010 Lead dog Ground up ascent after 4 tries in the boulder start before placing the first gear.
with Nathan Rosenfeld
Ground up ascent after 4 tries in the boulder start before placing the first gear.
with Nathan Rosenfeld
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 TR dog
bigie bob 7 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S
A Downing 31 Jan, 2010 TR RP
with Ben Monkton
with Ben Monkton
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
nathanmanc 29 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
dannyboy83 11 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
with Alice
with Alice
akhughes 24 Sep, 2009 Lead β Excellent route. Difficulties low down and probably only 6a. A good route for the on sight or flash. could easily become ruined with top roping.
with Tony Stone
Excellent route. Difficulties low down and probably only 6a. A good route for the on sight or flash. could easily become ruined with top roping.
with Tony Stone
Hidden 12 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Boy ?Sep, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Hidden 24 Jul, 2009 TR dog
Hidden 25 Apr, 2009 TR
hamer89 5 Apr, 2009 Lead RP first grit e5
first grit e5
Hidden 15 Mar, 2009 Solo RP
Dan 85 15 Mar, 2009 TR
with Lewi, Richard Armour
with Lewi, Richard Armour
Lewis Andrew 15 Mar, 2009 Solo RP good few attempts on tope rope. got psyched up and went for it. awesome route. glad i did it.
with Rich Armour
good few attempts on tope rope. got psyched up and went for it. awesome route. glad i did it.
with Rich Armour
john lynch 13 Mar, 2009 TR amazing! would love to solo it someday.
with Lewis Andrew, rich armour
amazing! would love to solo it someday.
with Lewis Andrew, rich armour
liamoloughlin ?Mar, 2009 Solo RP Clean first go on a rope. Fell off first move on lead! Got it second go...
Clean first go on a rope. Fell off first move on lead! Got it second go...
Hidden 21 Feb, 2009 TR O/S
Hidden 21 Feb, 2009 Lead RP
mattcyp88 21 Feb, 2009 Lead RP Headpoint. Cleaned on top rope first time.
Headpoint. Cleaned on top rope first time.
Wil Treasure 13 Feb, 2008 Solo RP As the sun set. Sticky grit day it would seem!
As the sun set. Sticky grit day it would seem!
Hidden 1 Nov, 2007 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20 Oct, 2007 Solo RP
Ram MkiV 2 Oct, 2007 Solo O/S superb moves right from leaving the deck. Was very disappointed to not be able to reach the break having stood up off the ledge. moved feet around and used every mm of reach to piano play into the break whilst battling panic. scary.
superb moves right from leaving the deck. Was very disappointed to not be able to reach the break having stood up off the ledge. moved feet around and used every mm of reach to piano play into the break whilst battling panic. scary.
Dave Bond 14 Mar, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 11 Mar, 2007 Solo β
BoulderMonster 30 Jun, 2006 TR RP fantastic climb must go back and do agin love to lead
fantastic climb must go back and do agin love to lead
Hidden ?Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 15 Jun, 2005 Lead
with Spence
with Spence
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Solo β
Chris Reid 24 Apr, 2004 Solo O/S
mark s ??, 2003 -
tuftynick ??, 2001 Solo O/S
with Aide Jebb
with Aide Jebb
Hidden 21 Oct, 2000 TR
Vince Smedley 9 Oct, 2000 Solo β
with Anton
with Anton
Seb Grieve ??, 2000 -
sadams 8 Jun, 1999 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18 Apr, 1999 2nd
with Mike Weeks
with Mike Weeks
r0b 14 Apr, 1999 Solo RP
RossG123 ??, 1999 Solo RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18 Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
with tim russon, James Ibbertson
with tim russon, James Ibbertson
Laramadness 15 Apr, 1997 Solo
jfletcher 7 Sep, 1996 Solo
Si Witcher ??, 1996 Solo O/S
marconi ??, 1996 Lead RP
with Darren T
with Darren T
Davros the Psyched ??, 1996 Solo O/S
simes303 ?Jun, 1995 Lead O/S Onsight, no cheating pads.
Onsight, no cheating pads.
Laramadness 27 Apr, 1995 2nd
robyn1 ??, 1995 -
Cowflinger ?May, 1992 TR
with sharpie
with sharpie
innes ?Feb, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1992 TR
Rob Davies ?Sep, 1991 TR dog
Stoney Boy 8 Jul, 1990 Solo Top Roped it first
Top Roped it first
David Slater 20 May, 1990 Lead O/S Nearly fell - thought it much harder for shorties, like moi at 5'7" (E5 6c?). No mats or spotters. Harder than Nosferatu for the short.
with Cathy Elliott
Nearly fell - thought it much harder for shorties, like moi at 5'7" (E5 6c?). No mats or spotters. Harder than Nosferatu for the short.
with Cathy Elliott
Helsbybred ?Jun, 1988 Solo β Followed Ritchie up it without really analysing it Thought about the top for a while then pressed up with my thumb to make the hold more secure - can still remember it 31 years later
Followed Ritchie up it without really analysing it Thought about the top for a while then pressed up with my thumb to make the hold more secure - can still remember it 31 years later
Hidden ??, 1988 TR RP
Pedro50 7 Jul, 1987 Solo
julesmckim ??, 1986 Solo RP Love this route. First venture into harder gritstone. Bouldered out the start above my Tetley's beer towel in those pre-mat days then came back and top-roped it then came back and soloed it. Happy days. Sequence up to the mid-height break is exquisite.
with paul jenkinson, Guy Howard
Love this route. First venture into harder gritstone. Bouldered out the start above my Tetley's beer towel in those pre-mat days then came back and top-roped it then came back and soloed it. Happy days. Sequence up to the mid-height break is exquisite.
with paul jenkinson, Guy Howard
Hidden ??, 1985 Solo RP
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
mark-abz 28 Mar, 1982 TR
with Andy W
with Andy W
KRB 1 Apr, 1980 Solo O/S Put all my trust into my EBs and suprised myself this day. Subsequently soloed in a pac-a mac (as you did in those days!
Put all my trust into my EBs and suprised myself this day. Subsequently soloed in a pac-a mac (as you did in those days!
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 42
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set