Rockfax Description
The pod and leaning hand-crack give a withering pitch. The route swallows medium cams by the tonne and, although the initial groove is a grovel, the crux is right at the very top. © Rockfax

FA. Hank Pasquill 1969

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Tick List for 2015/2016, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Top 50 Peak Cracks.

eb202 03/Sep/17 2nd dog

Hard work but there is a poor rest at the top of the groove/off-width (where you think "oh that's not so bad") that provides a brief respite before the upper crux section (where you realise "oh, it's not over yet"). Flailed around a fair bit on the top crack - too thin for decent hand jams and I even (unsuccessfully) attempted a layback before realising there was no escaping the poor jams. Then found the finger lock and finally thought it was in the bag, only to slide off the slippery sloper top out. Ha ha ha!

with Michael
Mike505 03/Sep/17 Lead RP

Two more attempts today, peeled off the slopers at the top first time and took a healthy sized fall onto low but bomber cams in the crack. Pulled the ropes, taped up to protect the remaining skin on my hands and went again, got some higher gear this time and topped out. I would have removed the gear before the final attempt but it's all placed from restfulish positions and the weather was closing in so didn't bother.

Mike505 02/Sep/17 Lead dog

Found the groove pretty easy, got to mid way on the crack and after much upping and downing succumbed to pump. Lowered off went aging to no avail, rested on the ropes went up again moved my top cam down which unlocked a much better jam and got me to the top.

Tom Redwood 02/Sep/17 2nd dog

No way near good enough at jamming for the top, more overhung than it looks too, bottom not too bad though.

with MT
Mike_Hayes 20/Aug/17 Lead
morganator 16/Aug/17 Lead

Quality route. No soft touch but all there

Hidden 15/Aug/17 Lead G/U
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 10/Aug/17 Lead dog

Really pleased to get all the moves on this. Couldn't even dog it last time!

ashtond6 08/Jul/17 Lead rpt

Felt easy. 10+ in indian creek

TomRiddelsdell 30/Jun/17 2nd dog
Graeme Hammond 25/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Ace, should have O/S previously but good to get his clean tonight.

with Becky E
Hidden 13/Jun/17 Lead O/S
climberchristy 11/Jun/17 Lead

Glad to get this today as I dropped the last move on it when I tried it a couple of years ago. It's a tough little finish. Surprisingly steep.

with bencole
harry_lewis 09/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Felt stiff - probably says something about my jamming skills

with Matt Arnold, Tom Bennell
CharlieMack 31/May/17 Lead O/S
with John allen
islandlynx 13/May/17 Lead rpt

Felt okay this time after having struggled and failed on the head wall crack last weekend

masa-alpin 07/May/17 Lead dog

Near the end of the day. Fell off at the top. I thought I'd had it. Gutted.

with Charline H, Rob G
robgixer 07/May/17 2nd dog
islandlynx 06/May/17 Lead dog

Found the headwall crack tough. I was stubbornly trying to jam and persistently failing. In the end senor gaston came to the rescue. Those with enough gas to make the crack but not enough to place gear will be in for a hair raising finale.

Hidden 09/Apr/17 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Apr/17 Lead rpt
robgixer 02/Oct/16 Lead dog
CraigOsborne 02/Oct/16 Lead dnf

couldn't even get past the initial groove let alone anywhere near the crux!

shaunhumphreys 23/Sep/16 Lead dog

fell off just before the bomber finger lock, felt haaaard still after a rest.

James Oswald 23/Sep/16 2nd RP

After falling off it leading twice previously. Did it clean from the start after sitting on the rope to get a cam out. Almost fell off the top.

melv 17/Sep/16 Lead
with Fi
Matt Cooke 06/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Dale Comley 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead β
ashtond6 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Prob my new favourite grit route

ferdia 17/May/16 Lead G/U

Those thin hand jams at the top felt pretty different dry

with Tony Stone
Proddler 12/May/16 Lead dnf

Quick go. Fell at the top.

Andy Peak 1 26/Nov/15 Lead dnf

Wet very wet in the crack, got to just before the good finger lock and sliped out, new ambition is to climb this in teribul condishons as its more fun:-)

Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Louishmouis 20/Sep/15 Lead
with Dad
Hidden 20/Sep/15 -
Jake Young 19/Sep/15 Lead β

A Grit Day Out !

with Fabritzio, Dom, Tom Appleby, Alex M, Nick
amccann 19/Sep/15 Lead β

On Fabrizio's gear.

Teappleby 19/Sep/15 Lead β

On fabrizio's gear, was no where near as hard as expected!

Nick1812P 19/Sep/15 Lead β

with gear in.

with Jake
dom94 19/Sep/15 Lead β

pre placed gear

MichaelGallimore 13/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with jon lawson
soph 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Laura Evans
Hidden 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
pearson9596 15/Aug/15 2nd rpt
quiffhanger 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Mark S
Mark Stevenson 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 28/Jun/15 Lead dog

Believing a hold in the crack near the top to be a sloper, I committed to some hard lay-backing and missed the really nice fingerlock. Jumped straight back on though and finished fine.

pearson9596 28/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Liam Ingram 21/Jun/15 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/15 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 30/May/15 2nd
with Jenny, nicky, james
Flavio 17/May/15 2nd O/S

If the cam didn't get stuck I would have not found those two no handed knee bars!

MichaelGallimore 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Amazingle well protected, and the start was great fun! I touched one of my wires in a finger jam. It didn't alter the route enough for me to consider it 'dogged', or to go back and lead it again, but I was disappointed.

with Flavio
nicolat ?/May/15 2nd
with James Mitchell
Tithe Technique 26/Apr/15 TR dnf

Jack got 1m from the top but did not finish it as it was nails. I gave it a go on his gear in the hope of doing the last move. Had to rest, this is nails. Glad I tried it. Very good effort from Jack.

Jackwd 26/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Has to be 6a those top moves. Couldn't get any jams to work just kept taking the lob. Then tried dynoing to the flat hold at the top, latching it once but just didn't have the beans to finish. I'll be back.

Matt Cooke 25/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Rosh
dominic lee 25/Oct/14 Lead rpt
nathanlee 25/Oct/14 2nd
with Dom Lee
GeoffG 14/Sep/14 Lead

Excellent piece of crack climbing.Short and to the point

Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd
Brannock 24/Jul/14 2nd
Robb Bert 13/Jul/14 -

had a sit

onlyfoddington 12/Jul/14 2nd dog

Enjoyed this. Was pretty pleased to get to the bottom of the upper crack in one. Then got destroyed whilst learning new crack technique.

with Michael
pearson9596 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hannes B 30/Jun/14 Lead RP

g-up 1 fall out that slippery top! good fun

with John Br
Brannock 30/Jun/14 2nd dog

Failed at top crack on lead, reet hard.

dannyboy83 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

The anger at being midged help me power through this quickly and not get pumped. Nice route

James Oswald 11/Jun/14 Lead dog

Fell off two moves from the top, shouldn't have bothered to place an extra cam and should have just pressed on. Done second go relatively easily. Shame to have fallen off this one. Amazing knee bar at the pod.

Rachel Slater 11/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead dog
stuart34 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Loosie
Hidden 29/Apr/14 Lead dog
Andy Moles 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Malc
pie_eater_pete 19/Apr/14 Lead
bwestwood 19/Apr/14 2nd
Brown 29/Mar/14 Lead
with Lilifa
Shauna 09/Mar/14 2nd
with Jules
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd dog
morganator 21/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Gopping wet at the bottom, still a bit wet the top crack- not climbable by me in those conditions!

Ramon Marin 02/Sep/13 Lead RP

Well, i messed this up a little bit by topping out on the Pin Prick crack, not knowing quite sure whether was in or not. But excellent climbing. Equals about E6 in Pembroke ;)

with ciaran tracey
Wayne S 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Deacon
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd dog
Si dH 16/Jun/13 Lead dog

Fell out of the crack. One more rest then did it. Bit gutted, just got pumped quite quickly and it was quite greasy, so the ring-lock didn't stay in!

with Neil Furniss
tebs 16/Jun/13 2nd dog

So close!

with Ciaran, Adam
Mr Wild 25/May/13 Lead dog
Andy Peak 1 06/May/13 Lead

fell of top crack placed gear in good jam, what a dick!

with Tom Martin
nicolat ?/May/13 Lead

fell off top out moves!!

with James Mitchell
Hidden 24/Apr/13 2nd dog
john lynch 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with ed luke, Lewis Andrew
ejected ??/2013 -
w.pettet-smith 14/Aug/12 Lead β

on bens gear, so as to get away from the midgie bastards asap. good, a little tricky getting to good lock just before crux as some bugger had put gear in the way! top easy enough if the rest has been a clip up ; )

with ben
Howard Lawledge 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jack
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Debbie Birch
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Matt Cooke 20/May/12 Lead dog
with Rosh
maddy.c 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Apharri 27/Mar/12 2nd β
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Ahab 14/Aug/11 Lead dog

Could have got clean, disappointing.

JulesV 18/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Boy 19/Apr/11 Lead
with Boggo
steve_yo 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with smooth
Hidden 31/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/11 2nd
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 27/Jul/10 Lead G/U
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Everett
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Oct/09 Lead
with Katherine Schirrmacher, Nic Sellars
Nicos 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
thebigeasy 22/Aug/09 Lead
with Nicos
Misha 28/Jun/09 Lead dog

Had a rest in the mini-peapod, then proceeded to completely dog the upper crack, resting on gear a number of times. Found it really hard to get good jams until the finger jam on the good hold just below the top (at least it looked like the top... great finish on quasi-jugs that keeps you struggling until the very end). Need to come back when I can do slightly overhanging 5c jamming moves! Placed loads of mid-sized cams and a single nut.

Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jun/09 Lead dog
mike lawrence? 26/May/09 2nd

not sure if Rob held me once i grabbed the ledge

with FatRob
Hidden 23/May/09 2nd O/S
Rich Kirby 23/May/09 Lead O/S

Far easier than expected.

with Kev
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead
feilx 05/Oct/08 Lead dog
with Ben Cole
btc 05/Oct/08 2nd dog
with felix coxwell
ksjs 28/Sep/08 Lead dnf

man, i struggled with this. lack of technique, too much sport recently and cumulative fatigue? anyway, onsight to mid-height ledge and started moves up upper crack only to be greeted by uncomfortable, awkward and slippery jams. stuffing toes in the crack is the answer but thats not so comfy. quite committing if you cant hang around to place gear. after several requests to 'take', some placing gear while holding onto lower gear and too much toe-squashing i decided to bring matters to a close. one to go back for!

Paz 16/Sep/08 Lead dog

Bottled the last move, which was easy after a rest; steady up top there.

with TS
Tim Steward 16/Sep/08 2nd dog
with James Parrot
Shauna 31/Aug/08 2nd dog

Fell off a couple of times from the top crack.

with Steve
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
GrantB 26/Jul/08 2nd
with Alaan
Ram MkiV 25/Jul/08 Lead

3rd time on this thing and by far the least bad performance, still room for improvement though!

with al & andy
Coel Hellier 22/Jul/08 Lead dog

One rest.

Ian Parnell 04/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Adrian Berry
alaan 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Really good fun!

with Aly
mattyork2 08/Jun/08 Lead dog

Cracking route. Inferior jamming skills at fault. Will be back with avengance.

The old James turnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
with aiden
Alex Mason 19/May/08 Lead O/S

Didnt expect to do this really after steve made it look sooo hard, found it ok, slippery ring-locking, and slopey top holds.

Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
dan gibson 26/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Ram MkiV 26/Apr/07 Lead

Previous failure. Eventually got a clean lead today. 24/06/06: crazy amounts of chalk and bizarr tick marks all over/up the crack. And then the final slopey jug hold at the top of the crack was dirty! Panicked on the hold, feet pinged a couple of times and eventually blew it.

with Al
AJ007 26/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Dan
andi turner 19/Apr/07 -
with grimer
DavidEvans 05/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Jules Vulliamy
Luke Brooks 21/Sep/06 2nd
with Geraldine Taylor
TomPR ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Scotty
Hidden 28/Jul/06 Lead
Andrew Sloan 28/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Tony Ball
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
sadams ?/Jun/04 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
Mick r 05/Jul/03 2nd

his finest hour

with Tony H
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead dog
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 14/May/01 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/01 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
sadams 09/Jul/97 Lead dnf
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden ??/1994 2nd dog
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
NickJH ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with H Gott
craig d ??/1992 -
phil64 ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/89 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark ??/1988 Lead O/S

Year a guess - with Paul Evans ?

Dave Musgrove 17/Jun/87 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Neil R 25/Jun/86 2nd
with Mark
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Neil McA 23/Apr/83 Lead β

Flogs gear was in situ from his ascent

with Flog
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Mark Kemball 16/Sep/81 Lead
with John Jefferies
Hidden 08/Jun/80 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/1980 2nd
with Pete Heys
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
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High E4
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High 6a
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set