Rockfax Description
Start to the right of a grassy mound. A nice little route that requires a steady approach on the top slab. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 20.1.91 20/Jan/1991

Ticklists: Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

jungle 29/Oct Lead
Hidden 22/Oct Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Sep TR
Hidden 17/Aug TR
MontyH 17/Aug Lead
with Lee Lander
meehanlj 05/Aug Lead dnf
dkilner 28/Jul Lead
ChristyCole 28/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun Lead rpt
naylers 21/Jun Lead
riff156 11/Jun Lead O/S
with Jo Smith
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Jun Lead rpt
with Martyn Eales
Hidden 27/May Lead O/S
Sam4242 14/May Lead O/S
with Sofi
crabby2009 01/May Lead O/S
Paul_southgate68 30/Apr Lead O/S
with Cheeky Chica
TomatoPro 17/Apr Lead β

Half a lead, end of the day rope was clipped into last bolt (from Joe's attempt), wow, 5+? some small feet to get on to the slab

with Cindy
cindylmy 17/Apr 2nd dog

Extremely hard move after the last bolt! Had a knee bar then went for an angled crimp, surely not a 5+.

Hidden 16/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar TR
Hidden 18/Feb TR
MontyH 18/Feb Lead
with Lee Lander, Paul Milton
kyleprosser 28/Jan TR O/S
t33np0k3r 29/Aug/16 Lead β
DeaksClimbingLog 29/Aug/16 Lead dog

Smooth climbing until 2nd bolt, gain height and keep a wide stance on two small blokes. On the nobby limestone on the slab, find the solid 45 degree crimp, work a high left foot and rock onto it. Commitment needed but it becomes positive. Recommend 6a.

CraigPerl 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with trisvye
nathan2day 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S


with Martin Wilson
Mike Weatherill 24/Jul/16 Lead rpt
kushan.vyas 24/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Found the final section very tough. Couldn't find anything to hang onto, and its a long way to final clip!

MontyH 20/Jul/16 Lead
with brian and Pete
SuperLee1985 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Tough for a 5+!!! Good effort doing the first lead and placing draws from Si. Steady up to the finger break, then a long reach to a poor sloper and a tenuous move to grab the block. A few more tenuous moves via a committing side pull to gain the upper break and holds to the left. The rock texture above is prickly crimpy stuff which made rocking up onto the slab a little exciting given the previous moves and height above the bolt.

StevieLee 03/Jul/16 2nd dnf
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead RP
Climber1806 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Dkoi 28/May/16 Lead
with Aurél
philhayes 20/May/16 Lead
RikGordon 15/May/16 Lead dnf

Found the third section tricky, couldn't find anything to grab and couldn't get high enough to lean in. A project for another day.

with Claire Rushe
mickd ?/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead dog
JGriffiths 16/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Took a huge fall off the top slab then called it a day

mlcumberlidge 16/Apr/16 Lead dog

Challenging moves from the second bolt, no further protection until the lower off.

with Lottie
amontgomery1 16/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead β
climb_cycle_fish 02/Apr/16 Lead dog
ClimbingAlex 02/Apr/16 Lead dog

Again, harder than it should have been. Route reading skills need to improve.

trevor macalonan 16/Jan/16 Lead dog
with Richy
Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
lokidog ??/2016 -
MontyH 28/Dec/15 TR
with brian and Pete
Pete_Frost 31/Aug/15 Lead dog

Messing about on the warm up route. The top-out on the polished, crozzly, stuck-on limestone by the lower-off is nasty and could result in a very long fall. I wouldn't recommend this route to a friend.

with Blake
CRiddiford 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Jem
Marti999 05/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Ben Hallett
Ranaz 02/Aug/15 Lead β
bede.west 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S

hmm not great

Robs_Uren 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with RKirke
RKirke 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
MontyH 24/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/May/15 TR
Shane Willis 30/Apr/15 Lead

This was my first outdoor climb years ago. Needlees to say I failed. I still have the scar to show for it. Did it today (being a significantly better climber than I was 10 years ago) and it still felt precarious. 6a I think.

tsyrett 11/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Fun little one to get your head in the game

Moritz L 06/Apr/15 Lead dnf

couldn't commit to the run out at top

with Alice
Philoosh 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
BRoe ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
smartydh9 22/Mar/15 Lead rpt

supper teky

with georgi c
roberts1234567890 06/Mar/15 -
with Will Moy
mattc 19/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jan/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2015 Lead RP
brian watson 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost
MontyH 04/Oct/14 TR
with brian and Pete
davidjm ?/Sep/14 Lead
with Pete, Louis
1202alarm 19/Aug/14 -
with Jamie Evans
JUSTADUDE 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Shane
Pete Scott 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Buckland
will_benfold 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline Culwick
SimonMarcYoung 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/14 TR dog
moguy ?/Jun/14 Lead β
Martin Haworth 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 26/May/14 Lead dnf

Nails for 5+. I've no idea why there isn't a bolt over the lip. Too bold for me to top out.

robbo99 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Easier if you're tall.

Emmawood 05/May/14 -
Alex Hallam 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Pete Mack
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
tsyrett 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/14 Lead dnf
hlburns ?/May/14 2nd
ConstaBern 13/Apr/14 TR
AdamH 12/Apr/14 TR
Richard Horn 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 22/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Jen Durden, Phil
Hidden 18/Jan/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Jan/14 2nd RP
MontyH 28/Dec/13 TR
with Paul Milton
brian watson 28/Dec/13 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost
Echna 07/Dec/13 Lead rpt
with Matt, Rich
Hidden 07/Dec/13 TR rpt
Doug91 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Some tricky little crimps to get to final clip

with Matt
meltdown34 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Did not manage the move over onto the slab section at the top due to pumping out on lower holds.

with Doug
andyclimber 03/Aug/13 2nd dog
Pixie-Andy 03/Aug/13 2nd dog

Seemed very hard for me on a sunny hot day! Polished was not the major problem. But small holds that did not work well for my 80kg with sweaty hands. A scary lead with a possibilty of hitting some jutting out rocks if you slip. Its probably easier for a lighter/smaller person! ;-) ...one to be wary of! Is it a 6a? I'm probably not experienced enough to comment, but i'd like a 2nd opinion.

Hidden 29/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jim-Roberts-1987 22/Jul/13 Lead RP


with Hayley Gould
phardy 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 TR
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead β
jrccrosby 15/Jun/13 Lead
Theeni 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Joseph
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
meltdown34 01/Jun/13 Lead dog

Completed the climb but with three falls moving above the second bolt onto the finishing slab. If to try again would be able to do it clean

with Chris
Andre Clarke 21/May/13 TR dog

Top is really nasty now. Can see a scar from missing flake thats been pulled off. No way a 5+ more like 6b

with wedgie
khalidq 05/May/13 Lead O/S
tedburt 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Aaron Burdett
cdpuk 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/13 2nd dog
gibsond 18/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Stroppy 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Felt pretty hard for a 5+, one of the crucial footholds high up is very polised

with Ollie Wilmot
DorsetGareth 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Chris S
Marcin78 ??/2013 Lead
with Tomek
Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
MontyH 01/Dec/12 Lead
with Lee Lander
BenL 14/Oct/12 Lead dog
betathief 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf

struggled to complete crux move. lack of strength to pull up and hole in toe didnt help the struggle.

Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
mr random 27/Aug/12 TR

Lead it but did not like the top out so backed off and top roped it clean.

with Lotty, Mike H
lottiec 27/Aug/12 TR dog

The stuff at the top is grippy but hurt my paws.

with Mike H
saraguti 25/Aug/12 Lead dog
with chris, ania
Maken 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 12/Aug/12 2nd
Dale ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
marcb 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Spicy finish

with Roly, James Ryan
Dibdawg 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Wayne Gaudin
Luxulyan ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Kev Brown, Tom Murrell
KDhruev 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Alex N-R 24/Jun/12 Lead β
Andy Peak 1 17/Jun/12 Lead
caroline256 16/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Tom B
birthers 16/Jun/12 Lead dog

One rest before committing to that move onto the slab, not a fan of small holds!

Jobbo 26/May/12 TR
TiffTiff 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 21/Apr/12 TR
MontyH 21/Apr/12 Lead
with Lee Lander
gibsond 13/Apr/12 Lead RP

Got spanked by this route years ago so nice to climb it now clean.

mike lawrence? 23/Feb/12 Lead
with James the Navigator
Stroppy ?/Feb/12 2nd
tombushell ?/Feb/12 Lead
with Ed
tombushell ??/2012 Lead
with Ed Hastrop
MontyH 17/Dec/11 Lead
with Lee Lander
Andrew Taylor 15/Oct/11 2nd dog
BicepAndrews 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Sep/11 TR dog
BelayBunney 24/Sep/11 Lead dog

F5+? My arse. Felt more like a 6a. Fingery top out.

with Mike Kendon, Lizzie, Catherine
joedoherty 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mattprince 23/Sep/11 Lead β
tradguy 17/Sep/11 Lead β
with Mark Hazell
Gazleah 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with linda ford
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
lioness84 30/Jul/11 -
MontyH 13/Jul/11 Lead
with pete frost
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dannywallcrawler 02/Jul/11 TR dog
jimecallaw 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with David, Danny
BicepAndrews 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Pete
JamesBrowning 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
The Ivanator 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Pull onto the top slab with just small crozzly holds was hard and with fading finger strength I failed, next time.

with Sean
mishtu 25/Jun/11 2nd
with lewiz
lewiz 25/Jun/11 Lead dog

Freaky run out at top. Rested then found the move.

el_monty 24/Jun/11 Lead β
with Sami
Sami Mandeel 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 21/Jun/11 Lead dog
suds_01 17/Jun/11 Lead
with Jackson
suds_01 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mushroom
lozowen 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Justin Field
matgorman 09/Jun/11 Lead
gnat 29/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead O/S
J5Kay 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Linc 14/May/11 Lead O/S
sam_craddock 14/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Fatclimber 02/Apr/11 Lead β

Finally got it. Needed to practise before I had the nerve for the top though!

with Jim Bailey
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Jonesy_A 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
ardzeiem 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf


with Gergana
Mr Tickle 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
nath_casper 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with mikey
Hidden 05/Feb/11 Lead O/S
duncan 29/Jan/11 Lead dog
ian d f 15/Jan/11 Lead rpt

Fell off the first time...

Hidden 08/Jan/11 Lead dnf
Ushuaia 12/Oct/10 Lead
sammycolon 27/Sep/10 -
Kevster 26/Sep/10 Lead
tim_mcd 28/Aug/10 Lead dog

Fell from last move. Got it second time.

zara bloomfield 01/Aug/10 Lead dog
MontyH 28/Jul/10 Lead
with Paul Milton
adrianjenner 24/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Real head game top out! Just not in the right frame of mine for choss top-out!

Alex Shermer 08/Jul/10 TR dog
with Andrew Gardner
riddle 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
ThomasB ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead RP
Fatclimber 06/Jun/10 TR dog

Finally got up it. Still couldn't lead it though!

SGD 17/May/10 Lead
with Adam Fletcher
nick hawkins 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Jack Hooley 24/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Apr/10 TR
Hidden 05/Apr/10 Lead dog
SJFox86 05/Apr/10 TR dog
JonF 05/Apr/10 2nd
greylag ?/Apr/10 2nd
brian watson 06/Feb/10 Lead rpt
with Andy and Lee
MontyH 06/Feb/10 Lead
with brian and lee
brian watson 02/Jan/10 Lead rpt
Marcin78 ??/2010 Lead
with Paul
timf ??/2010 -
radioman ??/2010 TR dnf
Jane Weir ??/2010 Lead
Sophie Nunn 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
gronbech 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with H
michpaulatto 30/Aug/09 Lead dog
with Eugi
eugeneth 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ian
samantha252 25/Jul/09 Lead
Warren Earle 09/Jul/09 Lead dnf
with Javi
Javis 09/Jul/09 2nd
with Warren
candicegallab 03/Jul/09 TR
briar4012 02/Jul/09 TR dog
with Marti
tbs105 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with jake
dswansonlow 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Megan Hall
Hidden 06/Jun/09 TR dog
Hidden 24/May/09 TR
DeclanMurphy 24/May/09 -

Didn't make it up. Damnit. Thought we'd start the day warming up on a 5+ but it turned out more difficult than we thought and we didn't have the balls to go for the final bolt. grrr

with Francesco
SGD 22/May/09 Lead
with Tom Relf
Fatclimber 16/May/09 Lead dnf

Failed again. This route is becoming my nemesis.

with Jim Bailey
bigbobbyking 02/May/09 Lead
Hidden 25/Mar/09 Lead rpt
jacobjlloyd ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Fatclimber 31/Jan/09 Lead dnf

Couldn't get on to the slab. Took a long fall trying to do so.

with Dean Chapman
Javis ??/2009 -
thompson1000 ??/2009 -
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
northnorthnorth ??/2009 Lead O/S

Easy does it

with Christina
Scott McRae 27/Sep/08 TR dog

Didn't get weight over foot and ran out of stamina

with Tim Gledhill
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead
kylieo 20/Sep/08 TR
with Phil
lazza ?/Sep/08 2nd
feilx 12/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
briar4012 11/Aug/08 -

Long distance between second and bolt and lower off - dnf.

Hidden 11/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 21/Jul/08 Lead dnf
vertigo 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 04/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Rich
trev_f 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Martin
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead rpt
tebs 21/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 20/Jun/08 Lead dnf
Sean Cunliffe 15/Jun/08 Lead dog

1st outdoor lead. Have to keep your head on the final clip.

with Tyler
tyler vacher 14/Jun/08 Lead
crobinson ?/Jun/08 -
with Tom Last
jamie ward 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Robbie Smyth
Graham C 17/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/08 Lead dnf
Daniel Wicks 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/08 Lead
Ugly Kid Jo 22/Mar/08 2nd
with Skinny
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/08 Lead RP
deacondeacon ??/2008 Lead
with lauren
Hidden 29/Dec/07 Lead O/S
dobby 200 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
keefsloan 06/Oct/07 Lead dnf

A challenge from start to, well, as far as I got. High first clip, and the 2nd is a fairly challenging move (reach behind the aerofoil shaped flake for a good hold!). It was the end of the day so I was knackered (that's my excuse). Can make the penultimate move (RH finger crack and reach up onto the slope) but didn't manage to mantle onto the slope. I will though. Really enjoyed it!!

HeatherF 06/Aug/07 Lead dog
with Jake
patrickc ?/Aug/07 Lead rpt
sgl0jd ?/Aug/07 Lead
MontyH 02/Jul/07 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
MontyH 12/May/07 Lead rpt
with brian and lee
Hidden 12/May/07 TR
MontyH 07/May/07 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
hapymike 07/May/07 Lead
jl 06/May/07 Lead dog
with Penny
pennyb 06/May/07 2nd
with Jon
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
MontyH 24/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with pete frost
Tom Gadsden ?/Mar/07 Lead RP
with Roly
nublet 24/Feb/07 Lead dnf
mullermn 24/Feb/07 Lead dnf

Couldn't get the crux to get over the top. Several exciting falls ;)

jchenoweth 24/Feb/07 Lead dog
Monk 24/Feb/07 Lead O/S

This routes has a very dodgy topout. Very run out and not particularly simple climbing.

with Ginger Dave, Andy A and Matt B
MontyH 27/Jan/07 Lead rpt
with pete and Brian
Dandan82 ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rich
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
David Mayers ??/2007 Lead
with Ian Ratcliffe
Hidden ??/2007 -
tobydunford ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/06 Lead rpt
JonBray 25/Aug/06 Lead O/S
lighty 30/Jul/06 Lead dnf
with Robby b
jl 08/Jul/06 Lead rpt
with Brad
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
jimjimmyjimjim 04/Jun/06 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/06 2nd dog
sprocket90 15/Apr/06 Lead dnf

2 bolts only on this route. First bolt very high but easy to get to. Stretch out to the right (watch the swing out) and push up to the crack to clip the second bolt. No more bolts and a long way to the staples. A gutsy move would do it as only one more move is needed really. Staples are at the end of a slope so you can walk the last bit! End of our day so didn't finish it, but will next time.

with Olivier
maybe_si 09/Apr/06 2nd
with Alex
Oddjob 09/Apr/06 Lead β

As a testament to Simon's skill, he decided he didn't like the last rockover so got me to lead it through instead. Not too bad I suppose.

with Simon
Ed Babs ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Watkinson
aged_ape ?/Apr/06 Lead β
with Nige T
clipskipper ??/2006 Lead O/S

Unpleasant, badly bolted and run out at the end. Not a kind 5.

with armchair climbing
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Rokmunky ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
Gareth 31/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Haglington ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
duncan 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Vladimir Arnoudov
jl 06/Apr/04 Lead
with Rachel
chrisbevins ??/2004 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Chris Havill
Marq 06/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Isabel Kingsmill
Hidden 23/Jul/02 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 21/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Lucy
andybenham ??/2001 -
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Tim Weekes
MontyH 06/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Jacob Ram 07/Nov/99 Lead
with elisa shub
Hidden 15/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/99 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jan/99 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/98 2nd
Ally Smith ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
tomkhoward 25/Oct/97 Lead O/S
with SICMC
The Reaper 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 22/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Lee Bartrop
Scott McRae 13/Jul/96 Lead rpt
with Steve Lucas
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
clark alston ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Dave Henderson
Scott McRae 15/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Lucas
Hidden 27/Mar/95 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 04/Mar/95 2nd
with Bruce
jonberry791 ??/1995 Lead β
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1993 -
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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set