Rockfax Description
The centre of the flat orange sheet is a fine route and one of the best of its grade in the quarry. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 27.6.87 27/Jun/1987

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

lizzabelle 14/Oct TR RP

this was a tough one - kept working out one section then forgetting another bit.... then a hold fell off! ended up doing about 5 times but got there in the end :) second ever 6b+. Also worth adding that is was a very hot and greasy day...

MontyH 16/Sep Lead
with lee lander and Paul Milton
Hidden 16/Sep TR dnf
bpmclimb 21/Aug Lead RP
with Clare
Bettymolly 20/Aug Lead O/S

really good! really pumpy!

samparsons 18/Aug Lead β
emmafizzle 18/Aug Lead dog

Not having a good forearm day. Jeeeeez.

Chops 12/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun Lead
SaraAlassam 03/Jun Lead β
with Simon Bennett
The Screaming Finn 28/May Lead RP
Carl 28/May Lead rpt

Still really good!

with Rob S
rachelvlc 20/May Lead
with Luke
littleluke 20/May Lead
StrongDan 13/May Lead β
RangerMcFreindly 13/May Lead RP

Tried this last year and didn't manage it. First proper weekend to kick of the summer outings down to Dancing and was number 1 on my list. Feeling in better form had to get the beata again on a quick up but last root of the day and it came together. Good day.

joe1joe1joe2 30/Apr Lead O/S

Hardest 6b+ in the world. I also pooped myself mid route.

TomatoPro 17/Apr Lead O/S

This was quite good thin climbing in places. Steeper than it looks, some sort of optical illusion

with Joe, Cindy
cindylmy 17/Apr TR dog
JoeFoster59 17/Apr Lead dog

Steeper than it looks tried to get this a few times kept falling at the last clip due to poor pump management. Cool route if a little damp at the bottom

RFWilkie 15/Apr Lead RP

Avoided wet streak, but pocket was greasy and mis-read crux.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14/Apr Lead O/S
with Steph
davidrblakeman 14/Apr Lead rpt
with Ralph wilkinson
spoonernz 09/Apr Lead O/S
AlexHewitt90 25/Mar Lead dog
yh001 03/Mar Lead dog

Dogged twice. Once after the third bolt and once on the crux from last bolt to anchors.

MontyH 28/Jan Lead
with Lee Lander
Hidden 28/Jan TR
haribotheclimber 28/Jan Lead O/S
Fatclimber 22/Jan TR dnf

Just a play to see what 6b+ is like.

The Ivanator 22/Jan TR dog

Got all the moves, linking it all for the redpoint would require a little more work. Good route.

with Steve W
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Owen Diba 25/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
helkay 18/Sep/16 Lead dog

Great route with one balancy move onto a sloper = fall

Euge401 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with mattski
Hidden 18/Sep/16 -
Matt Harle 18/Sep/16 Lead
with Leo Knoertzer
Carl 17/Sep/16 Lead β
with Rob S
The Screaming Finn 17/Sep/16 Lead dog
with CarlWH
Mike Weatherill 03/Sep/16 Lead rpt
CraigPerl 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with trisvye
mattx1123 28/Aug/16 TR dog
Mike Weatherill 27/Aug/16 Lead rpt
ian d f 20/Aug/16 Lead rpt
pearson9596 20/Aug/16 Lead O/S
ElArt 11/Aug/16 Lead RP

One fall, left draws, smash smash.

ian d f 05/Aug/16 TR rpt
with shunt
katiep 01/Aug/16 Lead β

Nice and technical, dogged this many years ago so was nice to get it clean

with Connor, Tina Parsonage, Amy Horton
Connorolfe 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Amy Horton 31/Jul/16 TR dog
dankni 31/Jul/16 Lead
RockThirsty 30/Jul/16 Lead dog

Beta was crucial to avoid the pump

Samuel Vaughan 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Mike Weatherill 21/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Mike Weatherill 16/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Jun/16 Lead RP
MontyH 08/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
aiyer 04/Jun/16 Lead β

Best climb of the day! Amazing technical moves that you dont really see indoors!

with Gavin
Ed.Laver 01/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with bede
AlexHewitt90 20/May/16 TR
Mike Weatherill 07/May/16 Lead rpt
alexspurling 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Excellent technical climbing. Very nearly pitched off the top but somehow kept it together. Climbed it twice feeling much better the second go.

AJM 01/May/16 Lead rpt
Sam4242 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
roryferris 02/Apr/16 Lead dog
with emily
Alex Handley 01/Nov/15 Lead β

Great route! Crux is polished

with Merlin
merlin138 01/Nov/15 Lead dog

fell on crux as it was the warm up climb and soapy as all hell!! Nice route though.

_m.cox_ 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
mdolan 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
duncan 19/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Sean Smith
bede.west 10/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Great name, great route. solid at grade.

GPN 04/Jul/15 Lead
with Annette
hlburns ?/Jul/15 -
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead RP
aide454 07/Jun/15 TR
with Dad
ConstaBern ?/Jun/15 Lead RP
hervenuttall ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with calum
MontyH 30/May/15 Lead rpt
with pete frost
Hidden 19/May/15 Lead dog
Ian Bell 17/May/15 Lead dog
with Tania T
Ian Bell 17/May/15 TR RP
rachelvlc 03/May/15 2nd
with mr_cf
Tim_C7 02/May/15 Lead
with Luke Williams
London Luke 02/May/15 Lead O/S
Jane Weir 26/Apr/15 Lead
philhaigh 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
AlexD 23/Apr/15 Lead β
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 23/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Stu
stujamac 23/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Dan Brown, Sophie Nunn
tsyrett 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt
kennythescot 12/Apr/15 Lead dog
Lee_Meaden 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Luke Robinson
5210Hill 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Kenny Brewster
Sam Husband 06/Apr/15 Lead RP

Got 2nd go, should have been first really.

with Ed
Stroppy 06/Apr/15 Lead rpt


lawsy_boy1 ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
BRoe ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
ian bryant ??/2015 -
dynoseb ??/2015 Lead O/S
mattc 28/Dec/14 Lead dnf
Montse Shelb 29/Nov/14 Lead RP
with Nathan
brian watson 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost
MontyH 04/Oct/14 Lead
with brian and Pete
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Lead
davidjm ?/Sep/14 Lead
with Pete, Louis
Sam4242 21/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mateusz
cameron_hall 15/Jul/14 TR dog
will_benfold 15/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Caroline Culwick
Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
khalidq 05/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Sadie Renwick
adam 24 05/Jul/14 Lead β
MoWalker3 02/Jul/14 Lead dog

too humid, one rest.

with Cormac
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
nath_casper 08/Jun/14 Lead β

Retro flash

Swampy167 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Pathological_Climber 26/May/14 Lead dnf
Sophie Nunn 16/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tom T
ConstaBern 13/Apr/14 TR
Hidden ?/Apr/14 -
leglesslizard ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
JLD 26/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Albachoss ?/Oct/13 Lead RP
Stroppy 25/Aug/13 Lead dog
RKirke 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Graham Westbrook 22/Aug/13 Lead β
Huntlyfiddler 20/Aug/13 2nd
bpmclimb 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Clare
lewiz 11/Aug/13 Lead rpt
lewiz 10/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Pete Dangerous 10/Aug/13 Lead RP

Very nice route. A little sequencey and very enjoyable.

with lewiz
karoo88 04/Aug/13 Lead β
Jonathan Emett 16/Jul/13 Lead RP

first time climbing with iestyn in at least 10 years

with iestyn
chriswood 08/Jul/13 Lead dog
phardy 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Incredible climbing! Technical and fingerry... got it 2nd go after I worked the crux sequence - important to get your hand sequence right at the top! Made my trip.

Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead β
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead RP
tomB 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Juliette, Jody
Luxulyan 18/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Darryl
gibsond 18/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Rich
clams ?/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Doug
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Jevans ?/Jun/13 Lead RP
Callum Smith ?/Jun/13 Lead
Stroppy 30/Apr/13 Lead dog

Very nice but quite wet.

RKirke 30/Apr/13 TR dog

Do when dry

gibsond 11/Nov/12 Lead rpt

Missed to high crimp at mid hight and could not stick the micro-crimp I had. Clean second go.

with Drew Mulcahy, Steve Newman
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead RP
Jobbo 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
grp 13/Sep/12 Lead
Tangerine_Kingdom 01/Sep/12 Lead RP
with Witold
lizzie789 26/Aug/12 TR
marcduhig 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
marcduhig 26/Aug/12 TR O/S
Stuart Johnston 25/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Cat St. Claire
lewiz 18/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Klara Vlckova, Martin Holecek, Kirsten Donovan
plilley 11/Aug/12 Lead dog
alek 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
marcb 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Some how OS this, not really sure how, had an absolute nightmare at the top.

with Roly, James Ryan
paultaylor 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Luxulyan ?/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Tom Murrell
cooperman 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Greg Foster
cdent 17/Jun/12 Lead dog

Too much lazin' in the sun to have the proper focus. Second half of route much fun.

Ffej 17/Jun/12 Lead dnf

liked the look of the first third of this route.

with Chris Dent
Dibdawg 17/Jun/12 Lead dog
Dean177 16/Jun/12 -
Sami Mandeel 13/May/12 Lead dog
with Sam Tucker, Rob, Zo
Ducks Rock 12/May/12 TR dnf
with Rob G
tsyrett 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Marti999 09/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Gibbo 28/Jan/12 Lead
with Tom Gibbison
IanMulvany 22/Jan/12 Lead rpt

It felt a lot harder than last year. I guess that's climbing for you;

with Daniel Keller
Hidden 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Danny_boulders ?/Jan/12 Lead RP
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead β
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Ducks Rock 24/Sep/11 TR
with Rob G
Dan Lane 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Great route, one of the best at the grade i've done. Almost fell off near the top but just about kept it together.

deejmonkey 17/Sep/11 Lead
EmilyElouise 27/Aug/11 Lead RP
MontyH 27/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with pete frost
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd dnf
jon_gill1 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead rpt
keithpeck 09/Jul/11 Lead RP

It was a little scary the first time at 11pm with head touch, went much better the next morning ;)

BicepAndrews 09/Jul/11 Lead rpt
BicepAndrews 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt
BicepAndrews 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Pete
lewiz 25/Jun/11 Lead

Failed to find a huge right hand side-pull near the top. F6b not F6b+

Sparky!!!3 23/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Sparky!!!3 21/Jun/11 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Col Dawg, el_monty
el_monty 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Sami
Sophie Nunn 16/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Darrel, Alan
Monkey_Alan 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S

First 6b+ onsight! Nice route, great name!

clipskipper 11/Jun/11 Lead β

Finally nailed it, and not as hard as I'd remembered

with Dave Wing
davewing 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Andy H
Linc 07/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Will Fuller 04/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Bit of a team effort, this one. After about an hour of faff Heather turned up and onsighted it.

with Heather, Jo Davison, Mike Spooner, Kieth Jackson
Hidden 21/May/11 TR
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
jbulger 21/May/11 Lead dog
with andrew
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Linc 14/May/11 Lead O/S
rxmac 14/May/11 Lead rpt

"retro flash"

tom.ireson 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Great route, got very confusing cos there were so many holds chalked that were clearly rubbish. Who has been working this so poorly? The last hold before the top made it all worthwhile....

with Paul Jones, David Proctor
Hidden 13/May/11 Lead RP
gibsond 13/May/11 Lead RP

Got it on 4th go once I'd sorted out my feet. Good route.

Hidden 13/May/11 Lead RP
mes32 08/May/11 2nd dog

Amazing! Got to 3rd bolt 2nd bolt clean then needed rests to work out the moves. Could do every move well, just need the stamina to link together. Get training!

will_benfold 08/May/11 TR dog
ian d f 08/May/11 Lead β
MontyH 04/May/11 Lead rpt
with pete frost
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
fildac ?/May/11 Lead dog
Daniel ?/May/11 Lead dog

Beautiful route

Daniel Wicks 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd
Jonathan Emett 18/Apr/11 Lead rpt
martinazando 02/Apr/11 2nd
al99 02/Apr/11 Lead β
dan gibson 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with michael porter
IanMulvany 14/Mar/11 Lead β

really nice route, not too hard for the grade.

with Daniel Keller
andyjirvin 08/Mar/11 Lead dog

Two attempts - first one must have fallen or rested total of ten times. Second attempt: only one fall and then finished!! Will have to get clean next time. Great route. Possibly better footwork/more thought about balance for the crux move?

riddle 27/Feb/11 Lead dog

WTF! was a gibbering wreck on this.

Sam1991 03/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Got to last bolt...way too tired and way too few balls. Need to go trad climbing...

with Dave, Tom and Andre
Hidden 30/Jan/11 Lead
duncan 23/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jan/11 Lead RP
cymjt ??/2011 -
manwithacam 23/Oct/10 Lead

Got this on my second attempt

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 23/Oct/10 Lead dog

3 falls first attempt, and fell another time at second attempt. Will have to redpoint it next time.

Gambit 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Enjoyable climbing, felt OK for the grade.

with James
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead dog
givemetea 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 27/Aug/10 Lead dog
with andy hart
paulnc 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf

In the rain, need to come back and finish...

with Mike F
Hidden 19/Aug/10 TR RP
Ceridwen 15/Aug/10 TR dog
with Sophie Nunn, Heather
Sophie Nunn 15/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Jul/10 2nd
adrianjenner 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with George
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Wendy 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 26/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Mark
davidrblakeman 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Oli (Death Rope) Mills
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead RP
tew105 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Alaina 20/Jun/10 2nd β
Ceridwen 19/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Robin Head, Katy Preston
Robin Head 19/Jun/10 TR dog
with Katie
katiep 19/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Ceri, Robin Head
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 23/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 08/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead dnf
trev_f 01/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Ed
Sophie Nunn 27/Mar/10 Lead dnf
JonBrown 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
davenev 06/Mar/10 -

Lovely moves but some tough transitions after 3rd and 4th bolt - clean next time......

with luke
Mr Tickle 06/Mar/10 -


with davenev
nickevens 27/Jan/10 Lead dog
with Edward Shaw
jld579 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
JGW ?/Oct/09 Lead
with Tall John
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Sep/09 TR
with Cath Maxwell, Rich Fox
Hidden 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
tsyrett 19/Aug/09 TR dog

Clean next time!

The Ivanator 19/Aug/09 TR dog
with Sean
Perryman 19/Aug/09 Lead β

enjoyed it - balancey

Alex More 18/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with keiha
eugeneth 08/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Ian
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead
garywong 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead
MarkRyder 15/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Rich
strapless 13/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/09 TR dog
ThomasB ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Ben Tyrrell 28/May/09 Lead O/S
SGD 22/May/09 Lead dog

1 fall

with Tom Relf
Dandan82 ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Rich
JonBrown ?/Feb/09 Lead dog

one rest

with Felix
metal arms 28/Dec/08 Lead O/S
steve taylor 27/Dec/08 Lead
trev_f 06/Dec/08 Lead RP
with Alex M
Dave Searle 12/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
clipskipper 10/Aug/08 TR RP

Lovely sustained route with a stylish finish.

with armchair climbing
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead β
Ed Babs 15/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Harry
garburn 10/May/08 Lead O/S
sadams 23/Feb/08 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 23/Feb/08 TR dog
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
dmoir 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Dan B and Ben H
MontyH 19/Jan/08 Lead

a little damp at the crux

with Lee Lander
Hidden 19/Jan/08 TR
AJM 12/Jan/08 Lead RP

Nice flowing series of moves. Got rained off it in December, but bolt-to-bolted today to warm up then redpointed it first go. Tshirts weather!

Ali3735 ?/Jan/08 TR dog
with Andy M
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Dec/07 Lead rpt
vertigo 24/Nov/07 Lead RP
with Chris Bowmer
rubben 23/Nov/07 Lead β
sam_cox ?/Nov/07 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 23/Sep/07 Lead dnf

Sods law, only really technical route I try all weekend and it pisses it down halfway. Def, one for next time.

with Jonny
Hidden 12/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/07 2nd
sgl0jd ?/Aug/07 Lead
patrickc ?/Aug/07 TR O/S
dannyboy83 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Matt Shepherd 20/Jul/07 Lead O/S
btc 20/Jul/07 Lead
with ian lovatt
JPGR 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Steve
Richard Horn 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/07 Lead dog
MontyH 24/Mar/07 Lead RP

top roped once in nov?

with pete frost
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead
Monk 24/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Ginger Dave, Andy A and Matt B
feilx 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Steve P
Hidden 20/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
MontyH 19/Nov/06 TR
with Brian
winter_burn 14/Jul/06 TR dnf
with Ben Bramsby
Hidden 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/06 Lead RP
jimjimmyjimjim 04/Jun/06 Lead dog
Hidden 30/May/06 Lead O/S
rhino_bill 07/May/06 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Apr/06 Lead β
tobydunford 18/Apr/06 Lead dog
maybe_si 09/Apr/06 Lead
with Alex
Oddjob 09/Apr/06 Lead dog
with Simon
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Scott N ??/2006 Lead RP
feeko ??/2006 -
Rokmunky ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
thomb ?/Jun/05 Lead rpt

Great route, better name.

with Harry
bigie bob ??/2005 Lead O/S
chrisbevins ??/2005 Lead RP
duncan 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Vladimir Arnoudov
KRB 26/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
just one more 19/Apr/03 Lead
with tim b
Mark Kemball 31/Oct/02 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 26/May/01 Lead
with Paul Palfreyman
clark alston ?/May/01 Lead RP
with Steven Martin
pezzerrr ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/98 2nd
Ally Smith ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
rob.grafton 30/May/95 Lead
with Bruce
Bruce Kerr 08/Apr/95 Lead
with George MacIntyre, Keith Turton
Roget 02/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 02/Jan/95 Lead RP
Dringo ??/1995 -
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/94 Lead
Ezy Ryder ??/1993 Lead RP
Nigel Coe ??/1993 2nd

Approx date

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Votes cast 84
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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