Rockfax Description
A complex line that weaves up the West Buttress at a relatively friendly grade. Start at the base of the Eastern Terrace, just above a wet and grassy crack.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb a crack to a small stance under the rib of White Slab. This can also be reached from the base of Longland's.
2) 4c, 12m. Move right, then pull round onto the slab. Move right again, then descend with difficulty (Linnell's Leap). To a belay at the bottom right of the slab.
3) 30m. Move down slightly and scramble rightwards then up grassy ledges and climb the short slab to a belay in a corner.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab to the arete and pull round to a big shared belay on White Slab.
5) 4c, 20m. Move right then up the groove to an overhang. Swing round this to another groove and follow it to a small ledge and belay in the corner above.
6) 4c, 20m. Stride right across the corner, then pull round onto a narrow slab. Climb this more easily to a stance.
7) 30m. More broken scrambling up grassy ledges leads past one more possible stance to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The V.S.+ Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Hidden 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Mainly VS climbing, but definitely soft HVS for the 3 cruxes on it.

with Ben from Bristol, Thomas Adams
tomdude 19/Jul/16 AltLd

Steady climbing, complex route. Very pleasant

Chubbard 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Grassy, scary, midgy with some great moves. 7 hrs ish.

with Michael, C Godfrey
neal 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 4, 6. Some nice moves, but also quite a bit of veg.

with Dan
kenhansard 06/May/16 AltLd
simibrown 06/May/16 AltLd
with Rich, Ken
Kate Edhouse 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, wonderful climbing intersprersed with lots of grassy and loose rock. But there is wonderful moves around the aretes.

with Neils PYB
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
Dan724 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Was meant to be a quick warm up before White Slab but turned into an epic route finding nightmare. The good bits involve 3 extremely exposed steps round arêtes straight off the belays, the best being the start of pitch 6 where you bridge across a chasm with 500 feet of exposure. Unfortunately I didn't feel that this made up for the horrific loose blocks, wet grass and generally untrustworthy rock which perpetuate the majority of the climb.

with Dan Jones
Danjones 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S

A long a complicated line to follow with 3 exciting committing moves which always revealed the required holds at the crucial moment! Quite tricky route finding which caused a slow accent of 7 hrs! Not gonna break any records with that one, but good day out in any case!

with Dan Hale
Bob ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
frost 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Helen
Grezza 20/Jul/13 AltLd

Couple of "out there" positions and 1 decent slab pitch, but otherwise overrated

with Paul E
charlesmfrench 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

2,L,2,L,2,L,2. Not a *** route. It's too vegetated and not harmonious, but amazing route finding.

with Anette
Fred_Richard 13/Jul/13 Lead
with Pete
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Jonny Nick 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, half of 3, 5 and 7. Epic route with tricky route finding and 2 wild moves, overhang on pitch 5 and large step on pitch 6. A shame pitch 3 is a bit chossy.

with eleytim
James Oswald 07/Jul/13 AltLd
victim of mathematics 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 & 2 only to access White Slab avoiding the frightening-looking first pitch. Led P1 - not clear what level to traverse across, or where to belay. The possible stance just under the rib is very awkward, so belayed higher by some good spikes.

James Oswald ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Only p1 and p2 to skip the scary sounding traverse pitch on White Slab.Pretty cool

with Colin Angus
jcw ??/2013 -
cem 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3, 5 & 7. A classic route perhaps but not *** in my opinion

Kirill 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2,P4,P6. Some amazing positions interspersed with a few chossy sections, P3 being particularly unpleasant.

Dave89 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Led pitch 1,3,5,7 felt a bit run out in places, but climbing never too difficult.

jayrenegade 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Lead P1 P3 P5 & P7. Excellent route, would highly recommend.

with Prav
Andrew Sloan 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic mountain route. Led pitches 2,4,5 and 6.The rock was bone dry and had great friction.There were 3 very exposed 5a moves: the traverse on pitch 2, the overhang on pitch 5 and the 'long stride' on pitch 6.......that makes it solid HVS for me.I would grade route 4b,5a,4b,4c,5a,5a.Climbed with rucksacs.

with Steve Grove
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Bill Lawrence 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

some scary moves for the grade. my ropework was turd on this, made it less enjoyable than it shouldve been due to the amount of faffing about. in reality this is a very good route, shame i didnt enjoy it as much. first route at cloggy!!

with andy lawrence
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with steve
stevepotter 30/Apr/11 AltLd
with Bryan
hellboundblr 30/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Me P2, P4 & P6. Good moves through the overlaps. Traversed too high on P4 making a move that was at least 5a. Nearly fell off seconding P3 when a crimp crumbled to bits. Fell off seconding P7 when foot hold fell away.

with Steve P
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Em66 04/Jun/10 AltLd
with Mat, Tom
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
dicky79 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

We were on route the whole way. Go us. Tick!

with James D
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
saintlade ??/2010 -

thought this was pretty rubbish really, not a patch on great/bow combo.

zukator ??/2010 Lead
PaulHarris 08/Aug/09 AltLd
with Simon, Micheal
Flibble 07/Aug/09 AltLd

Good route some amazingly commiting moves, bit spoilt by the 2 pitches with wet slippy grass

with Simon
lukehodson 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S


with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

nearly died due to route finding rope drag gear ripping out ineptness, otherwise a lovely climb.

with Luke
Hidden 26/Apr/09 AltLd
liz77 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2, P4, P6. Long run outs and ungraded pitches seemed more like 4a or b.

with HRC
Strange little creature 24/May/08 AltLd O/S

Exposure fest. 3 scary crux pitches and met Steve Venables on the way up who was climbing Longland's

with Scott Cramp
dicky79 11/May/08 Lead dnf

CC Cloggy guide doesn't have a picture of Pitch 1&2 so we followed Bow-shaped slab pitch 1&2. V12 guide shows it clearly. We ab'd off in the rain. Got the whole route still to do.

with Nicola
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Owain Llewelyn 08/Jun/07 Lead
with Dad
zukator 07/Jun/07 2nd O/S

Guidebook description for first pitch is "Climb the grassy crack and its continuation" This does not bring you to the stance under the arete of white slab. In addition it is very grassy, greasy and unpleasant. Far better to descend from the first stance of Longland's - which you will almost certainly have to do anyway if you take the "guidebook" start. The route is currently very grassy and not receiving many ascents (likewise Narrow and the Old Girdle which take the same start).

with Owain
duncan 05/May/07 AltLd O/S

White Slab P1,P2; West Buttress Eliminate P2; Sheaf P4,P5,P6. West Buttress triple-direct?

rob1 22/Jul/06 AltLd
with Jonny Martin
ferdia 15/Jun/06 -
My Gravity 10/Jun/06 Lead β

Easy HVS (because lots of climbers around telling us where all the holds were), but nice exposure on pitch 6

with Simon S
Si dH 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Kane Chandler
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
Owen W-G 21/Jul/05 2nd O/S

Hard to locate start (had several false starts) although we had naff topos. Had an off day, so after leading a few early pitches, handed the lead to Jim. Topped out about 10.30pm after 5hs on route. Made it down to tents at foot of crag in almost zero light.

with Jim
jgordon75 21/Jul/05 Lead
caradoc 12/Jul/05 AltLd

Outstanding, interesting route finding.

with john b
jgordon75 ??/2005 Lead O/S

Route finding took ages - 6hrs on route

WB ??/1998 -
michael burrows 25/Sep/97 AltLd O/S

started with first pitch

with richard parry
Trobbo 07/Jul/96 AltLd
with john blower
roncaves ?/Jun/95 AltLd
with James Thomas
Hidden 16/Sep/90 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/90 AltLd O/S
babymoac 05/May/90 Lead
with MTW & Howard
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Dave Musgrove 24/Jul/82 AltLd
Nigel Bond 25/Apr/82 AltLd
with Rodger Edenborough
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/78 Lead
with Gavin Anderson
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Rob Davies 27/Aug/77 AltLd
with Mike Swaine
Mark Kemball 04/Jun/76 AltLd
with Mark Pearce
pneame ??/1975 AltLd
RichardMc 03/Aug/74 AltLd
with Ian Carter
tapley 21/Jul/74 Lead
with Alex George
sharpie ?/Jun/74 Lead O/S
with Phill Thomas
RichardMc 26/Aug/73 AltLd
with Alastair Gordon
Martin Bennett 15/Aug/73 -
with RA
Hidden ??/1973 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1973 AltLd
with FMC
Hidden 23/Apr/72 AltLd
uphillnow 11/Sep/71 AltLd
with Steve Foster, Dave Ellis
mikej 06/Jun/70 AltLd
with Bill Church
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 18
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set