Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes.
Seasonal Restriction from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.
Rockfax Description
Start just left of the big groove of Soldier of Fortune. Climb the wall above via a thin flake then move back left to gain a diagonal crack (bold). Follow this and exit leftwards up the tricky wall to the big break, which has inconveniently turned into a roof since the last route. Move right and pull over the roof and continue to a ledge (possible belay). Finish up the crack left of the corner. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson 06/Mar/1988.
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(St. Govan's Head)