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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
© Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Left of Downtown Julie Brown. Climb the shallow groove to a bulge, pass the bulge on the right to a rest below the final wall. Head for the conglomerate lump to join the final groove of Downtown Julie Brown, separate lower-off. Beware of the block on the ledge above - leave well alone.

John Leonard 02/Apr/2023.

Ticklists

Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2021 , Portland , Blacknor North Sport Climbs , Sportland 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rafal 11 May Show βeta
βeta: Nice route. 2 stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route. 2 stars
johnl 2 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Will be hard to read if it's not chalked up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Will be hard to read if it's not chalked up.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buoys Will Be Buoys

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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