8m.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the pocketed slab is especially taxing for the short - beware the final reachy moves. Gear is minimal! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
FA traditionally credited to Gary Gibson, but also claimed by Brian Cropper, who called it Pocket wall, with Tim Leach doing the second ascent

See above 1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Best slab climbs of the UK.


ClimberDateStyle
cragsman9000 16/Jul Lead O/S

Might as well have soloed it as I found only one bad placement that I didn't trust anyway.

with Neil
Manc88 04/Jul Solo RP

Decided to play safe and top rope first. Wish I'd just got on it - no gear, but low crux, after which you're on decent pockets for hands and/or feet. Dare I claim a first E2??

Ben Bransby 04/Jun Solo
edwingeorge 30/Apr Solo O/S

First attempt at an E2, just happened to do it without a rope. A small crash pad gave a psychological protection

with Joe
JoeFoster59 30/Apr Solo G/U

Above one crap crash pad really inadvisable to fall off the top slipped of the crux move at 1/4 height and the crash pad did jack. Really fun climb with complete interest even at the top. The crux was very reachy and used a really high foot really fun sequence. Totally my style short and slabby. First E2?

with Edwin
Hidden 30/Mar Solo β
paul79 25/Mar 2nd
highrepute 29/Nov/16 Sent β
Toby 29/Nov/16 Solo β
thetradlad 08/Oct/16 2nd RP

Attempted lead, better luck with the 'more left is right' beta

Mark D 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Elliot King LC&CC 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

No gear! Solo

Dale Comley 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S
ipblake 06/Aug/16 TR dog

Balancy! Enjoyed it

with simo
Simoisfab 06/Aug/16 TR

Top Roped while the anchor was there. Not too difficult but didn't look easy to protect. It's all about the balance

with Blakey
Hidden 27/Jul/16 2nd O/S
ebf 03/Jul/16 Lead

"Minimal" means "no" gear. Lead with a single side runner in Uno Crack at the height of the pockets as otherwise it is a solo. With the sidie I'd give this E2/5b, without E3/5b - it's far too easy for 5c.

with Dave Falcus, Marc Jones, Anneka, Paul Stephenson
pastep 03/Jul/16 Lead

A solo apart from a low side runner.

with ebf
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Chris Craggs 05/Jun/16 TR

Left hand in the Diff - probably taboo but climbs better

with Steve Cunnington
w-watson 30/May/16 TR
David Henchliffe 29/May/16 TR
with Matt, Will
Hidden 17/Apr/16 2nd
morganator 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

One rubbish cam in a pocket that fell out.. Bouldering mat is your best bit of gear

with JR
scarmichael 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing on minimal (1 lobe of a cam) gear

with Steve Wooton
Calum Wadsworth 23/Sep/15 Lead rpt

With side runners, made it more enjoyable

with Matt F
evenL 04/Jul/15 2nd
Fraser hill-casey 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/15 Solo O/S
Harry Holmes 10/May/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/May/15 TR O/S
Alex Hallam 02/May/15 TR O/S

Really good exercise, not sure where the marginal gear is supposed to go...

with Ben Freeman
DeanD ?/Apr/15 Lead
DeanD ?/Apr/15 Lead
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Retro Rowan 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Dan Geh 11/Oct/14 TR O/S
with Freshers
jshields 28/Sep/14 Lead

Previous solo.

with Roman Jivkov, Tony Fidler
TonyF 28/Sep/14 2nd
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo rpt

100 IAD No. 25

rurp 02/Sep/14 TR rpt

Easy on shunt!

with ben rowland
Hidden 03/Aug/14 TR
simeclimb68 03/Aug/14 TR rpt
en7edh 27/Jul/14 TR O/S
NickJH 26/May/14 TR
Matt Reed 26/May/14 TR O/S
amccann 18/May/14 Lead β
Teappleby 18/May/14 Lead
Theodorus2 19/Apr/14 2nd
migs493 19/Apr/14 TR rpt
Retro Rowan 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Smith
Nick1812P 10/Mar/14 Solo O/S
oddessy_uk 09/Mar/14 TR O/S
adi bryant 19/Jan/14 Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
rurp 08/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Bouldering mat, sideways rp5 collection of shite friends, geÓr aside the climbing is quite easy and excellent.

with bill farmer
woody0606 05/Oct/13 TR

Soft for a 5c.

Hidden 29/Aug/13 TR O/S
Dave Toseland 29/Aug/13 TR

Struggled on the bottom part even with a helpful top rope.

with Dan, Fred
sparkass 19/May/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd
peteramsden ?/May/13 TR O/S
alistairdaish 15/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Cake 09/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Snowball. 5b

with Matt
mark20 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S
AlistairB 06/Apr/13 Sent x

Snowball, quite a deep drift so missing the start though.

with Neil, Mark Rankine
deacondeacon 13/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Nice moves but very eliminate. No siderunners used (in fact no gear at all) and with a snowy topout felt a little worrying. E2 5C in the Stanage definitive, E2 5C on the rockfax database and user comments on both sites are heavily suggesting E2 which I would agree with. So why E1 on here?

Hidden 27/Oct/12 TR β
ashsleight 08/Oct/12 TR O/S
Zoomer 08/Oct/12 TR O/S
with A Student
Benn A 21/Sep/12 TR
howden82 09/Sep/12 TR RP
Hidden 08/Sep/12 TR O/S
KiaranR 08/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 TR O/S
migs493 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

No gear!

with Pete Skinsley
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
gordonday 22/Jul/12 TR O/S
with clive
Coel Hellier 12/Jul/12 Lead

Side-runner

Graeme Hammond 14/Jun/12 Solo RP

Soloed (no mats) in light drizzle after doing it once on top rope, bottom move is by far the hardest and the top section is probably 5a max. So maybe the old grade of E1 5c is right

with Mike Tutt
Matt Cooke 05/May/12 Lead O/S
mattorford 27/Mar/12 Lead

with a side runner, had no idea about the top section and my cams wern't small enough

stefie c 27/Mar/12 2nd
Alessandro Tentori ?/Mar/12 TR dog
with Paolo Fubini
Mark Collins 06/Nov/11 Solo O/S
disturbed_one51 02/Nov/11 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 02/Nov/11 Lead

Lead, although the gear on the face (of which there is some small stuff) didn't inspire confidence!

Jay C 29/Oct/11 Lead RP

Led it after having a quick go on toprope and didn't place siderunners - felt E2

with Tom D
cragspud 01/Oct/11 Lead
Ouncepounce 09/Jul/11 TR dog
AMarchant 11/May/11 Solo RP

E2, why would you place side runners?

Hidden 11/May/11 Solo RP
Kim M ?/May/11 Lead RP
with Nige
Hidden 16/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Ollie B 06/Apr/11 Solo O/S

not too bad despite climbing like a spesh most of the day, felt well eliminate

Wood for Trees 29/Mar/11 Solo O/S

hardest move at safe height, a real shame its such an eliminate with the cracks so close because the moves are fun and precise

with Steve
JRae 29/Mar/11 Solo
Ram MkiV 29/Mar/11 Solo O/S
with Guy
haylow 19/Mar/11 TR
barrowclough 19/Mar/11 TR RP
Hidden ??/2011 Solo O/S
jacobjlloyd 09/Oct/10 Solo O/S

went for the eliminate bouldery line, avoiding everything to do with the cracks either side. Would only be E1 if you share holds/gear with routes either side.

nickevens 09/Oct/10 TR β
Hidden 09/Oct/10 TR RP
Hidden 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Boy 04/Oct/10 Solo O/S
with Fiona Fullwood
KRB 25/Sep/10 Solo rpt

Thought this was an onsight whilst Mike was teaching Ollie how to climb properly- but turns out I soloed it back in '85 when it was HVS. 1st time on grit for far too many years. Thanks for the re-introduction Mike.

CRiddiford 12/Sep/10 TR dog
with James Hately, Steve Gaines
steveg 12/Sep/10 TR
Hidden 04/Sep/10 TR O/S
mlok2000 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Vin Bondah, Sheldon Webb
jenniferanncleaver 03/Sep/10 TR
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Ouncepounce 03/Jul/10 TR

Well pleased to get up this at my age

Tim M 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

I guess the E1 grade is if you use side runners

chris sm 26/Jun/10 Lead

Horrible hot day made this feel E2. The cams in the pockets are quite rubbish.

Will_Maxwell 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Didn's place any gear, more of a solo!

with Pete
Andrew Barker 09/May/10 Solo O/S

I'm 5'8 and this didn't seem reachy but it might be if you took a pointlessly blinkered line right up the middle of the slab.

with Tom Lyons, Cat Black
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Solo O/S
byronic 05/Apr/10 Solo

+Pads, nice last move!

Hidden 05/Apr/10 Solo rpt
john lynch 03/Mar/10 Solo O/S
with Neil Elmore
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/09 TR O/S
JCB42 10/Oct/09 TR O/S
andycooper 10/Oct/09 TR RP
Hidden ?/Oct/09 TR
g_quaglia ?/Sep/09 TR O/S
BruceW 16/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Side runners (again). Without would be E2...

with Becca, Mark, Ju
AlistairB 15/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Crappy conditions and lack of faith in the one poor runner, escaped off level with the gear after going up and down the top section a few times. Gutted, will return in better conditions.

with Johan
Hidden 14/Aug/09 Lead
Chris Craggs 09/Aug/09 2nd
with Colin Binks
mike bridges 03/Aug/09 TR O/S
tompilgrem 02/Aug/09 TR dnf
with Dad
Mike_Hayes 25/Jun/09 -
Rachel S 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Cath Sullivan and Des Chadderton
thomasadixon 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Scary.

with andy
HansUDes 25/May/09 TR O/S

E2 5c, Route87, p49

daviesp2 13/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 16/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/09 -
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
TGreen 11/Oct/08 TR O/S

Pretty dissapointed i didn't go for the lead, next time...

Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Lev 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Brown 16/Aug/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/08 -
duzinga 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Jim and Guido
JohnAI ?/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/08 2nd dnf
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
SKippy5 31/May/08 2nd
LankyPaddy 31/May/08 Lead O/S
dfbpdave 10/May/08 TR O/S

Failed a solo shortly after - bottled it about two thirds height, just before reaching the pebble.

Ben1983 17/Feb/08 Solo O/S
johnwilson123 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
deejmonkey 21/Oct/07 2nd
with Tom
tomparrott 21/Oct/07 Lead
with DJ
dan gibson 07/Oct/07 Solo
with AJ
dicky79 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Pete
Hidden 25/Aug/07 TR
Thomas L 02/Jun/07 TR dog

Struggled up this one!

with Chris Britton
cmsg 28/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Monk 07/Apr/07 TR O/S

Bottled the solo at the top so tied on to a passing top-rope...

craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
tobydunford 24/Mar/07 2nd β
with Jemma Powell
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
viking ?/Sep/06 2nd
with gareth
Hidden ?/Sep/06 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/06 TR
Chris the Tall 13/Jul/06 Solo rpt

Did it twice, slightly differant finishes. Started on the left - may have done it more direct in the past

Iggy_B 27/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Jana Urbankova
mikej 02/Jun/06 TR
with Rick Naylor
dominic lee ?/Jun/06 Solo
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 01/May/05 -
with Steve Goodman
BruceW ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S

A nemesis!

with Jen
andi_e 10/Oct/04 Solo RP
Smelly Fox 18/Jul/04 Solo O/S
samwelli 28/Mar/04 Lead dnf

Bailed out into uno cracks 3/4 way up due to no small cams and no placed gear....

with Reuben Brown
Daniel Armitage 25/May/03 Solo O/S
Carl Smethurst 30/Mar/03 TR
with Ian Pickles
Chris Reid 15/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 TR
BenTiffin ??/2003 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13/Feb/01 -
with Viv
Hidden ??/2000 TR
Bullybones ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Apr/99 Lead O/S
Trobbo 25/Jul/98 2nd
with john blower
RobSimmo ?/Sep/97 TR
kato'sdad ?/Sep/97 TR
phardman 14/Sep/96 Lead
kato'sdad ?/Apr/96 2nd
Martin Bennett 10/Sep/95 Solo
Hidden 06/Aug/95 -
Hidden 06/Aug/95 Lead
crater 01/May/94 TR
cragspud ?/May/94 Lead
crossleysm ??/1994 Solo

c.94

Hidden 24/Oct/93 Lead O/S
D Tempest 10/Oct/93 Solo
with Rick
Rob Davies 28/Sep/93 TR
Hidden 23/May/93 Lead
epic ed 20/Jun/92 TR O/S
with Claire M
Chris Ellis 04/May/92 2nd
with Andy Bell, Paul Farmer
Chris the Tall ?/May/92 Lead O/S

Protected by a dodgy friend which came out when Dave tugged on the rope

with Dave Gurney
Rob Davies 15/Sep/91 TR
Rob Davies 15/Sep/91 Solo

TR first

Roget 02/Aug/91 Solo O/S
steve taylor ?/Jul/90 Solo
with Jim Waddington
Hidden 13/Jun/90 Solo
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/88 Solo rpt
goi.ashmore 20/Mar/88 Solo O/S
Raggar ??/1988 2nd
with Dave S
mark-abz 13/Jun/87 TR
with Andy W
Hidden 31/May/87 Solo
Rob Davies 17/Apr/87 TR
Stoney Boy ??/1987 Solo O/S
Tom V ??/1985 Solo
sadams 06/Jan/84 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
andy gittins ??/1980 -
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 72
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 62
Style of ascent
Toproped
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set