UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Layback the lower arete precariously on its left-hand side to a ledge on the right. Teeter up to better holds (the crux for shorties) and a romp to the top. Easier for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1976.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Gritual , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , One Man and His Serotonin Levels , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Before 2025 , Winter 23/24

Feedback

User Date Notes
WillMancini 8 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Such a fun climb, soloed ground up as slipped on the start. Really fun slab and the upper section is perfect. Big reach to good jugs that feel victorious. Much more serious route if you’re short, but the description does say that. A friend tested the fall on his attempt and suffered from a few breakages. Lucky he wasn’t higher and handled it like a champ, definitely E5.
Show beta
βeta: Such a fun climb, soloed ground up as slipped on the start. Really fun slab and the upper section is perfect. Big reach to good jugs that feel victorious. Much more serious route if you’re short, but the description does say that. A friend tested the fall on his attempt and suffered from a few breakages. Lucky he wasn’t higher and handled it like a champ, definitely E5.
Joemullett24 30 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: After my lead, my partner bounce tested the 0.0 cam i'd placed (seemingly well) in the right most placement that more resamples a pocket within the break, this came straight out! think that placement has had a lot of use and is pretty bad now.
Show beta
βeta: After my lead, my partner bounce tested the 0.0 cam i'd placed (seemingly well) in the right most placement that more resamples a pocket within the break, this came straight out! think that placement has had a lot of use and is pretty bad now.
north country boy 17 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5"11 and found the crux ok, more commitment to standing on the decent smears rather than a long reach! Top half is great, awesome moves and fairly run out!
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5"11 and found the crux ok, more commitment to standing on the decent smears rather than a long reach! Top half is great, awesome moves and fairly run out!
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 16 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom arete is definitely the crux - no harder than average 6b. Did it just after soloing The Knock which made the The Knock feel vvvvv easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bottom arete is definitely the crux - no harder than average 6b. Did it just after soloing The Knock which made the The Knock feel vvvvv easy.
Julian W 29 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route and well worth its 3 stars!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route and well worth its 3 stars!
simes303 Jun, 1995 Show βeta
βeta: Onsight, no cheating pads.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Onsight, no cheating pads.

Logged Ascents

195 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage South Edge

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 47
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Offspring

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)

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