A superb route with exposed climbing at a reasonable grade. The most popular route in Wales, according to UKC Logbooks, which means it is often busy. Start at the base of Vector Buttress below a short steep groove with a large tree on a ledge on the left.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb blocks to a large tree. Traverse left for 5m behind the tree and move up ledges to the base of a short groove. Climb up this to a ledge and belay on a massive flake.
2) 4c, 30m. Step left around the corner (possible belay here if crowded). Climb up cracks to a memorable move up and right to a small ledge and spike above the roof. Climb up the slab via some small ledges until level with a crack/niche on the right. Move right into it and then climb up this, the crux being the final step onto the slab above, which leads up to another stance on the right below and left of the final flake pitch.
3) 15m. Move up to runners and traverse the unlikely looking flake hanging in space. Mantel on to the ledge, optional belay here. Move back left and scramble up a groove to belay on the top of the crag proper. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1. has significantly changed since the loss of a huge block. This pitch is now 4c with two methods of attack. One is to climb the scarred groove directly (some small wires) or from climb the arete to the right (good small cams in the break). The second method is easier but bolder.
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