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69m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route with exposed climbing at a reasonable grade. The most popular route in Wales, according to UKC Logbooks, which means it is often busy. Start at the base of Vector Buttress below a short steep groove with a large tree on a ledge on the left.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb blocks to a large tree. Traverse left for 5m behind the tree and move up ledges to the base of a short groove. Climb up this to a ledge and belay on a massive flake.
2) 4c, 30m. Step left around the corner (possible belay here if crowded). Climb up cracks to a memorable move up and right to a small ledge and spike above the roof. Climb up the slab via some small ledges until level with a crack/niche on the right. Move right into it and then climb up this, the crux being the final step onto the slab above, which leads up to another stance on the right below and left of the final flake pitch.
3) 15m. Move up to runners and traverse the unlikely looking flake hanging in space. Mantel on to the ledge, optional belay here. Move back left and scramble up a groove to belay on the top of the crag proper. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fantastic route, significantly changed since the loss of a huge block on pitch 1. This pitch is now 4c with the crux on slightly suspect rock. A small but solid spike has been unearthed at the base of this groove.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, My List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, CUMC Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, ULMC Classics, MUMC Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, University of Exeter must tick's, Pre-MIA Wishlist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, York University Students path to greatness, Definitive *** Tremadog, Target Routes 2019/2020, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, 2020 Trips

Feedback

User Date Notes
DomoftheMountains 16 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Got a corker of an ascent today, coupled with a classic Tremadog sunset from the top... However, the corner crack/short groove on pitch 1 is no longer to be found on route, instead it's now located somewhere in the forest on the ground. No harder on the lead, just different!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got a corker of an ascent today, coupled with a classic Tremadog sunset from the top... However, the corner crack/short groove on pitch 1 is no longer to be found on route, instead it's now located somewhere in the forest on the ground. No harder on the lead, just different!
Jack Doyle 14 May Show βeta
βeta: VS climbing on MCI training
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: VS climbing on MCI training
ledarville 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The bees nest in the tree at the start of first pitch was still active on Friday, but they were pretty contained around the front of the tree and the route goes around the back.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bees nest in the tree at the start of first pitch was still active on Friday, but they were pretty contained around the front of the tree and the route goes around the back.
Neston Climber 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfall has changed pitch one, will not match description in older books.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfall has changed pitch one, will not match description in older books.
Andy S 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch now solid 4c, maybe even 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch now solid 4c, maybe even 5a.
c00kie 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Highly active bees nest on P1 at the base of the tree (on that day anyway). Had to abandon the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Highly active bees nest on P1 at the base of the tree (on that day anyway). Had to abandon the route.
R Brown 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P2
Cat_McK 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock on pitch 1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock on pitch 1

Logged Ascents

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

Dives/Better Things

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Dinas Cromlech)