UKC

69m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route with exposed climbing at a reasonable grade. The most popular route in Wales, according to UKC Logbooks, which means it is often busy. Start at the base of Vector Buttress below a short steep groove with a large tree on a ledge on the left.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb blocks to a large tree. Traverse left for 5m behind the tree and move up ledges to the base of a short groove. Climb up this to a ledge and belay on a massive flake.
2) 4c, 30m. Step left around the corner (possible belay here if crowded). Climb up cracks to a memorable move up and right to a small ledge and spike above the roof. Climb up the slab via some small ledges until level with a crack/niche on the right. Move right into it and then climb up this, the crux being the final step onto the slab above, which leads up to another stance on the right below and left of the final flake pitch.
3) 15m. Move up to runners and traverse the unlikely looking flake hanging in space. Mantel on to the ledge, optional belay here. Move back left and scramble up a groove to belay on the top of the crag proper. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
P1. has significantly changed since the loss of a huge block. This pitch is now 4c with two methods of attack. One is to climb the scarred groove directly (some small wires) or from climb the arete to the right (good small cams in the break). The second method is easier but bolder.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , My List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , 2016 Targets , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , University of Exeter must tick's , Pre-MIA Wishlist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , York University Students path to greatness , Definitive *** Tremadog , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , 2020/21 Trips , North Wales Summer 21' , Welsh Roadtrip , BSR multipitch routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 16 May Show βeta
βeta: The section where there has been some rock fall is now a little unnerving and 4c. It's possible to build a belay just below/level with it on a small stance. I would say: "Taking care with some suspect rock, bridge up the scoop of the rock scar and pull right around the arete at the top to gain the belay ledge."
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The section where there has been some rock fall is now a little unnerving and 4c. It's possible to build a belay just below/level with it on a small stance. I would say: "Taking care with some suspect rock, bridge up the scoop of the rock scar and pull right around the arete at the top to gain the belay ledge."
Butty 13 May Show βeta
βeta: First pitch only due to weather, finished up Hail bege....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch only due to weather, finished up Hail bege....
Dom Roe 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Got a corker of an ascent today, coupled with a classic Tremadog sunset from the top... However, the corner crack/short groove on pitch 2 is no longer to be found on route, instead it's now located somewhere in the forest on the ground. No harder on the lead, just different!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got a corker of an ascent today, coupled with a classic Tremadog sunset from the top... However, the corner crack/short groove on pitch 2 is no longer to be found on route, instead it's now located somewhere in the forest on the ground. No harder on the lead, just different!
Jack Doyle 14 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: VS climbing on MCI training
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: VS climbing on MCI training
ledarville 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The bees nest in the tree at the start of first pitch was still active on Friday, but they were pretty contained around the front of the tree and the route goes around the back.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bees nest in the tree at the start of first pitch was still active on Friday, but they were pretty contained around the front of the tree and the route goes around the back.
Neston Climber 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfall has changed pitch one, will not match description in older books.
Show beta
βeta: Rockfall has changed pitch one, will not match description in older books.
Andy S 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch now solid 4c, maybe even 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch now solid 4c, maybe even 5a.
c00kie 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Highly active bees nest on P1 at the base of the tree (on that day anyway). Had to abandon the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Highly active bees nest on P1 at the base of the tree (on that day anyway). Had to abandon the route.
R Brown 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P2
Cat_McK 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock on pitch 1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock on pitch 1

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 399
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 369
Votes cast 381
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grey Slab

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Glyder Fawr)

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