A classic journey crossing the main face. With the exception of one short sequence, the climbing is no harder than 5b with delightful balance moves between good pockets. Approach via the first pitch of Skylight and a long ramble rightwards along the grubby ledge system.
1) 5c, 27m. From the Castellan Cave, follow the lower break to gain a rest at the Lyme Cryme stance (possible belay - recommended if you want good communication). Climb the cracks above and place some good wires then take a tricky diagonal line up rightwards to gain a flake. Climb this to the Debauchery stance. It is also possible to traverse right higher up the cracks, when level with the Debauchary stance.
2) 5b, 24m. Pick-pocket daintily rightwards to Darius and follow the juggy flakes up and right until another delicate sequence leads to Original Route. Finish up this and abseil off.
Delicatarius, E3 5c. A superb alternative which includes the best climbing of both routes. Finish up Darius after the delicate traverse on pitch 2 of Delicatessen. Take care with your runners which can unzip from the flake. A safer alternative is to belay on the hanging stance on Perseus after the traverse. © Rockfax
FFA. Unknown. FA. (Pitch 1) Chris Jackson, John Atkinson 1965. (Full route) Jack Street, Ed Ward-Drummond (some aid) 1965..
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, It's "D" Day at High Tor, Best of the rest and the ones that got away
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents