Restricted Access
High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales District Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines:
- With the exception of the tree at the top of Castellan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
- Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
- When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.
- Do not cut or prune crag top shrubs or trees as these are relied on as a natural barrier to keep visitors back from the edge
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.
Rockfax Description
A bit of an eliminate, but with some good moves.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb Lyme Cryme for a few metres then move diagonally left across the wall to a bulge. Continue above to join the traverse of Delicatessen from below and belay on the right. The peg is good and can be backed up with a cam. The direct start is loose and dangerous.
2) 6b, 30m. Follow Brown Donkeys (p.446) to the bong then step right and up to two old bolts. Make superb moves up then out left into, and out of, a scoop (a small cam above and left of the left-hand bolt provides a good back-up). Join Debauchery above and follow it left to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Howard Lancashire, Alan Austin 1985.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tony-S | 30 Sep, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: All linkups were moderated to 1 star. The choice of establishing whether a route was a linkup was based on whether the description implied it was a linkup/eliminate and the fraction of new climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: All linkups were moderated to 1 star. The choice of establishing whether a route was a linkup was based on whether the description implied it was a linkup/eliminate and the fraction of new climbing. |
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| shark | 28 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tony Stone playing games again. No good reason for this to be put in hybrids and link ups. It’s an eliminate with a lot of independent climbing just like Supersonic is, for example. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Tony Stone playing games again. No good reason for this to be put in hybrids and link ups. It’s an eliminate with a lot of independent climbing just like Supersonic is, for example. |
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| Graham Hoey | 10 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Back-up Friend on pitch 2 is above and left of the left-hand bolt. The route is well worth doing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Back-up Friend on pitch 2 is above and left of the left-hand bolt. The route is well worth doing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for High Tor
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Ceramic Extension
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)