UKC

117m, 5 pitches. The Classic Climb of Lundy. Five pitches

.....[climbs up the slab to follow the groove in the upper part of its RHS, and then takes the obvious traverse left under the headwall - AJM]

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, My List, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, Trad on every UK island, Climbs To Do On Lundy, ICAS Climbing Club, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, Lundy, High Quality Adventure routes, Libby Peter's HS Hit List, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Adventure ticklist 2018, Pre-MIA Wishlist, Ultimate HS ticklist, World Class Britain & Ireland, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Jack And Sophie's Super Fun Timez, 2020/21 Trips, Lundy Bird Ban VS-E3, Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett

Feedback

User Date Notes
gaddesm 10 Oct Show βeta
βeta: From the second's point of view, probably better to run the final two pitches together (particularly if you keep all the gear for the last steep bit on one rope only), you will then be in a better position to safeguard your second on the crux traverse. Beware of rogue waves on the starting ledges! We abseiled in on a falling tide, with a heavy swell, to find them dry and seemingly benign, but were caught out by two unusually large waves.
Show beta
βeta: From the second's point of view, probably better to run the final two pitches together (particularly if you keep all the gear for the last steep bit on one rope only), you will then be in a better position to safeguard your second on the crux traverse. Beware of rogue waves on the starting ledges! We abseiled in on a falling tide, with a heavy swell, to find them dry and seemingly benign, but were caught out by two unusually large waves.
Martin Southville 13 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Other groups seemed to be on the wrong line, walking the much easier right-hand edge where it's steppy. One leader even blocked others from ab'ing down by anchoring to the lowering block instead of building a belay on the route. We stayed well-in from the edge, followed the crack in the black streak and stayed inside the gently meandering white scoop as described and I think we had a better climb for it.
Show beta
βeta: Other groups seemed to be on the wrong line, walking the much easier right-hand edge where it's steppy. One leader even blocked others from ab'ing down by anchoring to the lowering block instead of building a belay on the route. We stayed well-in from the edge, followed the crack in the black streak and stayed inside the gently meandering white scoop as described and I think we had a better climb for it.
AliClimber 7 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route deserves all its stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route deserves all its stars
csd23 18 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Obligatory ascent for every Lundy trip - fantastic
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Obligatory ascent for every Lundy trip - fantastic

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 155
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 150
Votes cast 161
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Integrity

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Lundy)
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