UKC

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Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

35m. Climb The Strait Gate to where the crack narrows and traverse off left to finish in the cave of Joyous Gard.

FA. J.Perrin, C.Mortlock 26/Aug/1970.

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Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
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High 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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High 4c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
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Route of Interest
Galactic Co-ordinator

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

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