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Move, new 9b/+ by Adam Ondra[update) Video

© Ondra collection
Adam Ondra on Move, 9b/+, Flatanger, Norway  © Ondra collection
Adam Ondra on Move, 9b/+, Flatanger, Norway
© Ondra collection

The other day, Adam Ondra made the first ascent of yet another super hard route in the Hanshelleren at Flatanger, Norway.

After I finished off Iron Curtain, I went straight into this project. Not because it was the easiest one to pick, not because it is the best line in the cave (but would be the best line in thousands other places), but because I wanted to prove to myeself that I can climb in the roof and that I have acquired some biceps power in the last years.

The route is 55 meters long and can be divided into three parts - 20 meters of 8b leads to huge knee-bar (in common with Nordic Flower), another 20 meters of 8c+/9a leads to uncomfortable knee-bar (up to here 9a). There is right exit variation from Seb Bouin, that climbs huge juggy flakes to the left (7b+ on itself), making it "Little Badder" 9a. Wheras my line just goes straight and involves very bouldery and intense 9a of about 12 meters.

I had a sophisticated approach - to climb the whole route is extremely tiring and at the begining it would be impossible to get even close on the last part. That is why I installed three fix ropes and started either from two thrirds, half way up or one third. After I did all these links, I finally did the route second try from the bottom the last day of my trip in windy and sticky conditions.

Adam Ondra on Move, 9b/+, Flatanger, Norway  © Ondra collection
Adam Ondra on Move, 9b/+, Flatanger, Norway
© Ondra collection

I did the route after two weeks and half of work, which slightly disapponiting, as I was sure it was gonna be 9b+. But if I bear in mind the fact that it is not my style, I have too much doubts to give it 9b+ even though I think Change might have a been even tiny notch easier (I worked Change much longer, but now I feel stronger). So I give it 9b/b+ or just hard 9b, whatever one prefers.

Now I am charging the batteries and I am off to Flatanger for another 2 or 3 weeks in September, before the school starts, so let's see what is going to happen.

Let's see indeed!

Her is a video of Adam working the route:


Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Black Diamond , Montura, Entre Prises , La Sportiva , Beal and Hudy Sports


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Born in the Czech Republic, Adam Ondra has built up a decorated career since his early competitions, winning his first World Championships medal in 2009 in lead climbing. He was a favourite for Tokyo 2020 gold, but an...

Adam's Athlete Page 134 posts 51 videos



22 Aug, 2013
He is rather good that chap.
22 Aug, 2013
.....last day of my trip.....another two or three weeks in Flatanger. Oh well. Maybe even harder than Change he thinks.... jcm
22 Aug, 2013
I wanted to prove to myeself that I can climb in the roof and that I have acquired some biceps power in the last years. Ondra has no biceps power, Dave M has no stamina Steve McClure is always saying that he's weak..there self depreciation and self-depreciation! I, on the other hand, have little stamina, small biceps power and am weak
22 Aug, 2013
self deprecation?
22 Aug, 2013
I think, by the anti-logic of Ondra, McClure and McLeod, that makes you stronger than all of them!
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