In reply to Bulls Crack: I think Dave McLeaod only said he had no stamina in relation to attempting Paciencia recently because... "I’d done next to no climbing for several weeks with everything that had gone on. A few fingerboard sessions, a couple of TCA sessions, that’s it. I could still one arm a first joint edge. But endurance was nil."
On the other hand he does tend to claim he has a very low level of natural ability and limited strength...
Climbing's funny though because it's so multi-faceted. I have mates who, indoors, nail dynos I can't touch, and storm up overhanging routes I get pumped stupid on, but outside I can burn them off because crimpy wall climbing is what I'm best at. So, relatively, I consider myself short of power, with rubbish stamina. Equally, another mate whom I beat on technique and, most of the time, on strength and power-endurance, consistently leads harder than me on trad because he's more determined and just grits his teeth when I wimp out.
For a long time I thought there was an element of false modesty involved but I think cutting edge climbers are probably more conscious than most about their strengths and weaknesses as they have to plan their lives around their training and climbing. If you're climbing 9b+ and still get burnt off on a campus board or whatever the best test of your biceps is, then I guess maybe you really do think you are fairly crap in the bicep-power department.
I don't think coming across as modest and unassuming does your public profile any harm either though.
The other day, Adam Ondra made the first ascent of yet another super hard route in the Hanshelleren at Flatanger, Norway.
