UKC

Edu Marin repeats Chilam Balam, ~9b

Edu Marin and his father after Edu's ascent of Chilam balam, ~9b, 94 kb
Edu Marin and his father after Edu's ascent of Chilam balam, ~9b
© Marin coll.
Edu Marin has repeated Barnabé Fernandez' Chilam Balam, the ~80 meter ~9b, at Villanueva del Rosario, north of Malaga, Spain.

As predicted/suspected a few days ago when Dani Andrada made the 4th ascent, Edu Marin has now made the fifth* ascent of Chilam Balam.

*- Barnabé Fernandez

- Adam Ondra

- Seb Bouin

- Dani Andrada

- Edu Marin

Edu says that it's nice to dream... but more beautiful to make the dream reality! Today I was allowed to do the beautiful Chilam Balam!

After three months of work, I managed to reach the next level and ascend one of the most difficult routes in Europe. It has been a physical as well as mental struggle, where I had to give my all.

In the photo, with my best friend...my father! Happy... Very happy!


For the final bouldery crux section, Dani and Edu first tried with Ondra's beta, but eventually they changed and the did Seb Bouin's sequence instead. Apparently they're using different footholds. 
In order to lessen the rope drag on the 80m route, they pulled the rope out of the first draws at a knee bar some way up the route.

Edu Marin is sponsored by: Boreal, Bou and Climbat salas de escalada , Mammut.



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