Edu Marin climbs Valhalla 9a+ Multi-Pitch

Edu Marin has climbed his long-term project in the cave of Getu, China. His aim was to establish a route from the bottom to the top of the cave, which boasts 304m of roof climbing and is described as 'the largest roof in the world.' The route is 14 pitches long and its hardest pitch is 9a+, making it one of the hardest multi-pitches in the world.

Marin has spent six months living in Getu, Guizhou province. Equipping the route took him more than 50 days and he placed roughly 300 bolts. He returned to Getu in November with his father to work the route.

Here's a film of Marin climbing pitch 5 - Odyn's Crack 9a+:

Marin freed all the individual pitches earlier in the year and then aimed to climb the route in one continuous push. On 3rd March he broke a hold on the 12 pitch after climbing for over 10 hours. He returned a few weeks later and climbed the route in roughly 9 hours.

The route's difficulty breaks down as follows: 7b+, 7a, 8a+, 7c+, 9a+, 8b+, 8a, 8c+, 8a+. 8b. 8a+, 8c+, 8a+, 8a+.

Marin wrote on his Instagram: 'TODAY, WE HAVE CLIMBED VALHALLA! We climbed the largest roof in the world! At last, after many, many months of struggling, effort and thousands of adversities, we've done it. We've fulfilled a dream that started two years ago.

Waking up early, 983 stairs up, 150 meters of Juma ascent and start climbing at -5ºC has been our routine during these months. To be honest I've been tempted to give up sometimes. Endurance, discipline, perseverance and lots of motivation to release every single pitch!

4am
with a special feeling: sunshine, wind, no expectations nor pressure, just training. But today was the day. I knew I couldn't fail! So I've climbed the whole line in just 9 hours.'

¡HOY HEMOS ALCANZADO EL VALHALLA, el techo mas grande del mundo! ⠀ Por fin, después de meses y meses de lucha, de esfuerzo y de mil adversidades, lo hemos logrado. Hemos cumplido un sueño que empezó hace 2 años. ⠀ Las 4 de la mañana: sol, viento y la piedra seca, sin pretensiones ni presión, iba a entrenar. ⠀ Pero hoy era el día, ¡Sabía que hoy no iba a fallar! Valhalla liberado en 9 horas! ⠀ Conquistar el Valhalla no va a ser un destino final! Exhausto, agotado, pero realmente feliz: frustraciones, llantos, alegrías, fracasos, viajes, presiones, dificultades… Pero lo HEMOS logrado. ⠀ Gracias padre por tanto, por estar aquí durante 6 meses. Siempre positivo, siempre aquí, siempre conmigo. ⠀ Gracias hermanito por creer en mí, sin tí nada de esto seria posible! ⠀ Gracias a toda la comunidad y en especial a los que habéis venido hoy a darme apoyo! ⠀ Qué Rico Mambo, gracias por creer en esta locura! ⠀ Ahora sí, puedo decir... Volvemos a casa! ⠀ Filmado y editado por kareldownsbrough.com Concepto: @wearequericomambo ⠀ ⠀ —————— ⠀ TODAY, WE HAVE CLIMBED VALHALLA! ⠀ We climbed the largest roof in the world! ⠀ At last, after many, many months of struggling, effort and thousands of adversities, we've done it. We've fulfilled a dream that started two years ago. ⠀ 4am with an special feeling: sunshine, wind, no expectations nor pressure, just training. ⠀ But today was the day. I knew I couldn't fail! So I've climbed the whole line in just 9 hours. ⠀ Reaching Valhalla it won't be an end! Exhausted right now, but happy: frustrations, cryings, joy, fails, travels, pressure, difficulties… But WE did it today! ⠀ Thank you dad for being here during six months. Always positive, always here, always with me. ⠀ Thank you brother for believing on me, this couldn't have been possible without you! ⠀ Qué Rico Mambo, Thank you to believe in this madness! ⠀ Now I could say… We're coming back home! ⠀ Filmed & edited by kareldownsbrough.com Concept: @wearequericomambo ⠀ ⠀ Thanks to: ⠀ @petzl_official @borealoutdoor @climbatcenters @entreprisesclimbing @goproes @kuikmeal @ttrinternational

A post shared by Edu Marín (@edumarin1) on


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Edu has climbed at the highest level from a very young age, red-pointing 8c at fifteen; on-sighting 8b+ at sixteen and climbing 9a at seventeen. He has climbed routes of 9b and achieved World Championship...

Edu's Athlete Page 7 posts 1 video



25 Mar

Doing a multi-pitch in a roof is never going to be on my agenda, but I'm sort of curious about how you manage an outing like that. I know Edu's dad is a strong climber, but I doubt he followed all the pitches, and you can't exactly jug up the lead rope through a roof. Any ideas as to how they managed that?

25 Mar

Same as on any overhanging bigwall route would be my guess: Lower out until you are right under the next belay, then jug up...

Might be wrong, though, so I stand to be corrected

CB

25 Mar

How does the second lower out when the rope runs through all the draws?

25 Mar

Awesome looking route.

Seconding a bolted roof would be an effort, but ultimately not too hard - fall /jump off, jug up to the next bolt, unclip it, repeat.

Imagine the difficulty of putting the bolts in to start with!

25 Mar

A mere 300 or so

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