A quieter week, but one with some big ticks warranting news reports of their own (new Rhoscolyn E10) and a newsflash:
Will Bosi ticks Northern Lights 9a
NEWSFLASH: Will Bosi has made the fourth ascent of Northern Lights 9a at Kilnsey. Belayed by Ben Moon, who bolted the line but has not yet ticked it, Will joined the elite group of strong lads who succeeded before him: Steve McClure, Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. More information to follow in a separate report...
Molly Thompson-Smith flashes Urgent Action 8a+
NEWSFLASH #2: Also at Kilnsey today (Friday), Molly Thompson-Smith flashed Urgent Action 8a+. More information to follow...
Daniel Woods ticks Grand Illusion
Daniel Woods has made the third ascent of Nathaniel Coleman's Grand Illusion (Font 8C+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. The granite problem is an unusual one; it's roughly 30ft of climbing through a 70-degree roof and packs in 25 moves without rest.
Grand Illusion is the low start to Chris Sharma's Euro Roof (8A+) and before its first ascent there was a concerted effort to move rocks out of the hole, which according to Woods, made the line 'world class.'
Writing about his ascent on Instagram, Woods said: 'The intro consists of compression moves on granite pinch like grips, which lead into a bicep blaster undercling section, followed by an intense right hand gaston move into a left hand undercling. After all this build up you have the crux move at the end. I fell on this move numerous times. So many times that I accepted I'd get there tired or fresh and fall. the move is powerful, off balance (due to shitty feet and a frictionless hold), and requires accuracy. Hard to do this move well after climbing a resistant 8C/v15.'
Watch the video below of Nathaniel Coleman and Drew Ruana battling for the first ascent:
8c+/9a second attempt for Dylan Barks
USA Climbing Team member Dylan Barks has ticked Arrested Development at Mt Charleston, Nevada. The route was first climbed by Ethan Pringle in 2012 and climbs through a huge roof before exiting onto a steep headwall. The route has had several repeats and 9a is the consensus grade, but Barks has suggested it could be 8c+. Perhaps he just had a good day! He wrote:
'Climbing this route on my second try was certainly unexpected, but after getting into the roof section I started to feel a really nice flow that ended up taking me to the chains!'
Onsighting or flashing a 9a is still a coveted prize and has only been achieved by Alex Megos and Adam Ondra.
VIDEO: Margo Hayes on Biographie
In 2017, Margo Hayes became the first woman to climb a confirmed 9a+ with her ascent of La Rambla in Siurana, Spain. She quickly followed up by climbing Chris Sharma's Biographie. Her ascents were featured in the Reel Rock film Break on Through and they have now released the footage of Hayes' ascent of the iconic route at Ceuse: