Eder Lomba has made the second ascent of Steve McClure's Rainman (9b) at Malham Cove.
The route was first climbed by Steve in 2017 and links some of the hardest climbing at Malham; starting up Raindogs (8a) it then tackles the crux of Rainshadow (9a), before finishing up Bat Route (8c). With his ascent, Steve became the first British climber to reach the grade of 9b.
Over the past few years, Eder had already ticked most of Malham's classic testpieces including Bat Route (8c), Cry Freedom (8c), Raining Bats and Dogs (8c), and Rainshadow (9a).
Eder managed to figure out new beta on two sections of the route, utilising kneebars to rest. Commenting on his ascent, Eder said:
'What a journey... What a battle! With the route, the conditions, the midges, the heat, with myself...
'The day before I did it I told myself that this Friday will be the last day I will try it this season, due to work and summer getting so close, I wasn't going to have the chance to come back. When I got to the crag I knew I was going to do it, something in the back of my mind was really aware of that. When I tied in I was nervous, climbed Raindogs still feeling a bit nervous and making small mistakes, but when I left the first rest everything changed.
'It was like being on a different attempt - I felt strong and precise. When I got to the end of the hard climbing my knees felt weak and I got really emotional and shaky, I felt so thirsty...
'It was the most emotional send I have ever done and I am really happy and honoured to have been able to do the second ascent of Rainman. It has been an epic one. Climbing is amazing!'
Watch Steve climb Rainman below:
Comments
An 18 minute plus, un-cut video, shouldn't really work but it's rather wonderful.
Seems like Eder has maximised both his effort and the satisfaction from his achievement.
It's SO much better than speeding up the rests to shorten it. I always think that's really naff.
Amazing effort. Such a fun guy; always supporting everyone at the crag and keeping the day interesting. So happy for you mate!
Well done and well deserved.
Tony and Sarah
Never seen so many quickdraws in a close up photo!