The fifth round of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup took place over the weekend in Vail, Colorado. Shauna Coxsey returned to the top and extended her overall lead, making her dominant in the season rankings. In the men's, Jongwon Chon (KOR) topped all of the problems to clinch the gold medal. Interestingly, Japan once again showed how far ahead they are as a team, by taking 9 out of the top 10 places for the men in qualification and then sending 6 climbers to the final in men's and women's.
Alex Puccio started the finals in fine form, by flashing a powerful problem which the other competitors struggled with. The slabby 2nd problem changed the pace and balance of the finals, with Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka and Shauna Coxsey reaching the finishing hold. All four of the afformentioned climbers topped out problem 3, leaving them all with two tops for the final climb. Shauna needed to top the final problem within 3 attempts and did so by completing a huge dyno in front of the roaring crowd.
For the men, every finalist completed the first problem, although the second was a different story with only Kokoro Fujii (JAP) and Jongwon Chon (KOR) managing it. Chon took the lead by carefully climbing the technical problem 3, quickly followed by Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS) and Meichi Narasaki (JAP). Like the women's, the men's came down to the final problem and Jongwon Chon emerged victorious.
The Brits had a fantastic competition, as Shauna Coxsey, Michaela Tracy, Leah Crane and Tyler Landman all made Semi Finals. Michaela currently sits in 7th place overall.
The next round of the world cup is in Mumbai, India and you can tune in to the semi-finals on June 25th.
Watch the full finals replay below:
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Vail (USA) 2017
WOMENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Shauna Coxsey | GBR | 4t6 4b5 | 3t4 4b5 |
2 | Akiyo Noguchi | JPN | 3t4 3b4 | 3t6 4b6 |
3 | Miho Nonaka | JPN | 4t7 4b5 | 3t7 4b7 |
4 | Alex Puccio | USA | 3t5 3b3 | 3t10 4b10 |
5 | Katja Kadic | SLO | 4t8 4b6 | 1t3 2b4 |
6 | Petra Klingler | SUI | 4t7 4b6 | 0t 1b2 |
7 | Janja Garnbret | SLO | 3t6 3b6 | |
8 | Sol Sa | KOR | 2t4 3b6 | |
9 | Brooke Raboutou | USA | 2t7 3b9 | |
10 | Michaela Tracy | GBR | 1t2 3b5 | |
11 | Aya Onoe | JPN | 1t2 2b3 | |
12 | Katharina Saurwein | AUT | 1t3 3b11 | |
13 | Mei Kotake | JPN | 1t7 1b7 | |
14 | Berit Schwaiger | AUT | 0t 2b4 | |
15 | Alma Bestvater | GER | 0t 1b1 | |
15 | Megan Mascarenas | USA | 0t 1b1 | |
15 | Chloe Caulier | BEL | 0t 1b1 | |
18 | Meagan Martin | USA | 0t 0b | |
18 | Lily Canavan | USA | 0t 0b | |
18 | Leah Crane | GBR | 0t 0b |
MENs bouldering
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jongwon Chon | KOR | 2t2 4b5 | 4t9 4b8 |
2 | Meichi Narasaki | JPN | 2t2 2b2 | 3t6 3b5 |
3 | Yoshiyuki Ogata | JPN | 4t10 4b7 | 3t11 4b7 |
4 | Aleksei Rubtsov | RUS | 3t9 3b6 | 2t5 3b8 |
5 | Kokoro Fujii | JPN | 3t5 4b7 | 2t6 4b10 |
6 | Keita Watabe | JPN | 2t3 2b3 | 1t3 1b3 |
7 | Tsukuru Hori | JPN | 2t4 4b6 | |
8 | Jernej Kruder | SLO | 2t4 4b9 | |
9 | Tomoa Narasaki | JPN | 2t6 3b5 | |
10 | Rei Sugimoto | JPN | 2t9 4b12 | |
11 | Sean Bailey | USA | 1t2 4b14 | |
12 | Jorg Verhoeven | NED | 1t2 3b4 | |
13 | Sebastien Lazure | CAN | 1t2 2b2 | |
14 | Kevin Heiniger | SUI | 1t2 2b4 | |
15 | Yuji Fujiwaki | JPN | 1t3 3b7 | |
16 | Jan Hojer | GER | 1t4 3b4 | |
17 | Tyler Landman | GBR | 1t4 2b3 | |
18 | Alex Khazanov | ISR | 1t7 3b9 | |
19 | Kai Harada | JPN | 0t 3b7 | |
20 | Gabriele Moroni | ITA | 0t 2b2 |
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