UKC

New content at UKClimbing.com last month: JUNE 2008

© Sarah Clough
This month we've got 51 new articles, 10 product announcements and 9 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

Featured articles

I Want That Job! Dave MacLeod - Professional Climber 30-Jun-08
[E11 DVD Cover, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

In this article series I Want That Job! I'm interviewing people from various professions within the climbing world. It's the turn of Dave MacLeod, Professional Climber. Dave is a well known and high profile climber. He lives in Fort William and divides his time between all disciplines of the sport. He made the first ascent Rhapsody - the...

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Psychology in Climbing - Navigating the Minefield 27-Jun-08
[Dr Rebecca Williams, 3 kb]by Dr Rebecca Williams

Dr Rebecca Williams is a Chartered Clinical Psychologist and Senior Academic Tutor at Bangor University, as well as being a climbing instructor. In this article she explores different psychological approaches and techniques that could help your climbing. These include; identifying problems, over coming fear and anxieties and what to do if 'this...

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Andy Parkin - “A Life in Adaptation” 26-Jun-08
[Andy Parkin, 3 kb]by Weekday-Bluehippomedia

A new film is being made which charts Andy's life from his origins in a gritty 1970's Sheffield, his rise as a notable climber, his near fatal accident, gradual recovery and rediscovery of the artist within. This brief article introduces the story of Andy's life, and the work of the filmmakers in putting together the forthcoming documentary due...

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Thor, E2 5c - Skye. The First Ascent by Anthony 'Ginger'... 25-Jun-08
[Buachaille Etive Mor, Glencoe, 4 kb]by Anthony 'Ginger' Cain

In this article, 'Ginger' Cain shares with us his account of the first ascent of Thor E2 5c on Skye in 1967. He also shares some of his beautiful mountain landscape paintings. He is a well known figure around Llanberis and owns the shop Mountain Art on the high street. He is a regular face in the legendary Pizza & Pint night and is usually the...

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Barry McGuigan plays the piano on Snowdon 25-Jun-08
[Barry McGuigan plays piano on Snowdon, 3 kb]by Rob Johnson expeditionguide.com

Are the skills of a professional boxer relevant in the mountains? Rob Johnson spends a few days in the hills with Barry McGuigan and finds out - but not until Barry plays a spot of piano on the summit of Snowdon...

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Editorial: Chance, Risk and Accidents 24-Jun-08
[Simon Lee, 4 kb]by Simon Lee

Simon Lee discusses why he thinks that accident reporting for rock climbing is a bad thing: "The lessons that can be drawn from accidents, especially those where all the circumstances are not fully established, are more limited than they are generally held to be..."

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How dangerous is rock climbing? We don't Know. 24-Jun-08
[Mark climbing Trapeze in Glencoe, 2 kb]by Mark Stevenson

Mark Stevenson discusses why he thinks that accident repoerting for rock climbing is essential: "In my previous career, I spent five years as an aircraft engineer, a profession where safety is of paramount importance... ...In aviation safety, Heinrich's Ratio is well known; for every serious accident (such as those discussed on UKC), 29 minor...

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Lakes Festival of Climbing: Under Pressure (1027mb) and... 23-Jun-08
[Max Biden at Brandy Crag, 3 kb]by Martin Kocsis and Mick Ryan

"In the end, the quiz & the raffle, the rain & the sun, the tea & the biscuits, the midges and the music and the beer and the laughter swept us along on a wave of human warmth. I spent a...

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Building Steps Off The Plateau - VS to E1 - Mental Training 23-Jun-08
[The author on her first VS, 3 kb]by cider nut

Cider Nut finds herself at a VS plateau and, with the help of some mental training, boosts her grade up to E1. How? Read on...

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PREVIEW: Climb Magazine - the July issue 19-Jun-08
[July Cover, 3 kb]by UKC Articles

Check out what's in the July issue of Climb Magazine. Including: UK Alpine Routes, Karin Magog and Yorkshire Limestone in Stomping Grounds, You Can Climb Tufas by Steve McClure and Dave Binney, PLUS take a trip to Chair Ladder.

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UKC Features

Gymnastics for Training - With The British Team 17-Jun-08
[Grrr! Hello Ladies..., 3 kb]by Tom Randall - British Team

British Team Manager, Tom Randall arranged for some of the British Lead Climbing Team to visit one of the UK's best gymnastics squads and do a morning of training with one of the GB...

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Sonnie Trotter - Do what you love. Love what you do. 11-Jun-08
[Sonnie Trotter Repeats Rhapsody, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

"Do what you love. Love what you do. Take less. Give more. Never quit. Never follow. Be passionate. Be bold. Be honest. Respect people. Respect the environment. Always bring out the best in...

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Neil Dickson - Margins of the Mind 11-Jun-08
[Neil Dickson On Sight on Margins of the Mind - E8, 2 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

What happened on Margins of the Mind? Neil made an extremely impressive onsight attempt. The route was dirty and difficult to follow, the climbing was hard and extremely serious. Four...

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The North Face Races - Les Courtes & Les Droites 05-Jun-08
[North Face Les Courtes, evening light., 2 kb]by Gordon Smith

Gordon Smith takes us back to the mid Seventies and shares some of his Alpine adventures. An all star cast help him along - 'Dirty Alex', 'Black Nick', Terry 'Kingy' King and John Bouchard amongst others.

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Courting the Easy Way - An ascent of the Austrian Route in... 05-Jun-08
[Sunrise on Mt Blanc from Les Courtes, 1 kb]by Mike C

Mike C describes an ascent of the Austrian route on the north face of Les Courtes in 1980. His summit experience was blessed with a beautiful view of Mont Blanc under moonlight. With superb photography, Mike brings his ascent alive.

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The Swiss Route - Les Courtes 05-Jun-08
[Swiss Route on Les Courtes, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

One of the classic ice climbs of the Alps, tackling the ice-encrusted north face of Les Courtes, the Swiss Route is an ideal introduction to winter north face climbing. Pitch after pitch of steep ice and neve, weave through jagged rock bands; giving exhilaratingly exposed climbing,...

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I Want That Job! - Pauline Sanderson - Glenmore Lodge 02-Jun-08
[Pauline and Phil Sanderson at 8,848 metres, 3 kb]by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC

In this article series I Want That Job! I'll be interviewing people from various professions within the climbing world. It's the turn of Pauline Sanderson, Marketing Manager at Glenmore...

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An International Affair - BMC International Meet 2008 02-Jun-08
[Nico Favresse high on The Axe., 3 kb]by Alex Messenger

An International Affair - A photo essay by Alex Messenger. And so, they wash up at Llandudno train station, on their own, in pairs, or even whole squads, that have somehow fixed the selection process. They've travelled by plane, train, auto mobile, thumb or just plain luck. Americans, Latvians, Slovakians, Nepalese, Spanish, Dutch, Belgians,...

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New content at UKClimbing.com last month: May 2008 01-Jun-08
[Dave Birkett committed on the onsight of My Piano E8 6c - Nesscliffe, taken from the forthcoming climbing flick 'On Sight'., 2 kb]by UKC News

More than just an internet forum, UKClimbing.com publishes regular news, gear reviews and articles written by every-weekend climbers and top climbers. This is a summary of all the latest content on UKClimbing.com from the past month (May 2008), including: 38 new articles, 7 product announcements and 6 independent gear reviews from the UKC testers.

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Photography

'Ten Frames' - Indoor Climbing Photography by Alex Messenger 09-Jun-08
[Dani Rushmore, CWIF 2008, 2 kb]by Alex Messenger

"Being a 'climbing photographer' is naturally an impossibly glamorous life, but one that rarely leads to financial security. Or indeed, often anything resembling money at all. Toss in the...

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Spots of Time: The Experience 04-Jun-08
[Henry Iddon - Spots Of Time, 2 kb]by Henry Iddon

Henry Iddon climbed 53 Lakeland summits spending a total of 44 days and nights on the mountains to capture the images for Spots of Time his body of work taken from the summits of the Lake...

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Natural Magic and Moonlight 04-Jun-08
[Man against snow, Austrian Tirol 1974, 1 kb]by Paul Hill MBE

This essay, by Paul Hill MBE, Professor of Photography, is part of the foreword to Henry Iddon's book Spots of Time, The Lake District photographed by night published by the Wordsworth Trust on the occaision of the exhibition Spots of Time, 16 March 2008, in an edition of 800 copies. This essay puts into context Henry's work looking back at the...

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Competitions

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Iain Munnery (animated) 19-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition - Munnery #1, 2 kb]by mun21

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Iain Munnery.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Stephen Lavallee... 19-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Lavallee #3, 1 kb]by medfly_2001

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: m willcox 19-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition, wilkes #3, 3 kb]by wilkes

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Eleanor Long (flash) 19-Jun-08
[Lyon comp banner, 18 kb]by ele

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Tom Kingston 19-Jun-08
[Joker, 4 kb]by Tom Kingston

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Tom Kingston.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Jonathan Bean 19-Jun-08
[400x600_Banner_JonathanBean, 2 kb]by Jonathan Bean

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Jonathan Bean.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Phil Hemsley 19-Jun-08
[Beal banner 1, 3 kb]by morpheus71

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Phil Hemsley.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Patrick Smith 19-Jun-08
[Beal Joker Rope, 15 kb]by Patrick Smith

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Richard Hampton 17-Jun-08
[Banner Ad 3: 400 x 600 pixels, 3 kb]by hamptor

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Richard Hampton.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Sean Barr 17-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Sean Barr #3, 2 kb]by emikus

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Sean Barr.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Mark MacLean 17-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition MacLean #3, 2 kb]by sonofagun

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Mark MacLean.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Gareth Halliday 13-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Halliday #2, 18 kb]by Gareth Halliday

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Gareth Halliday

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Caroline McCann 13-Jun-08
[© 2008 Caroline McCann, 2 kb]by CarolineMc

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Caroline McCann.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Sharon Beardsley 12-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Beardsley #3, 2 kb]by cragmonkey

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Sharon Beardsley

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@ more articles...

...Competitions

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Jonathan Gibson 12-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Gibson #2, 3 kb]by Jonathan Gibson

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Jonathan Gibson.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Tom Everett 12-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition Everett #3, 4 kb]by tom.e

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Tom Everett.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Ian Black 10-Jun-08
[la sportiva 1, 3 kb]by yan

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Ian Black .

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: John Haxon 10-Jun-08
[Advert 3 - 400x600, 4 kb]by John84

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by John Haxon.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Ben Lownie 10-Jun-08
[Beal Rest - Author: Ben Lownie, 2 kb]by The Benjo

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Ben Lownie.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Phil Ewels 09-Jun-08
[La Sportiva Testarossa - 800x300px, 2 kb]by Phil Ewels

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Steve Cook 09-Jun-08
[600x400 banner design for la sportiva rock shoes, 3 kb]by Steve Cook

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Tanya from Bulgaria 09-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition _Tomova #3, 3 kb]by taniaT

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Tanya Konstantinova Tomova from Bulgaria.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Joshua Hughes 05-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition - No. 3 (400x600), 3 kb]by joshuahughes

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Joshua Hughes.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Drongo 05-Jun-08
[The Prizes, 3 kb]by Drongo

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Drongo.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: DavidC 05-Jun-08
[3. 400x600 La Sportiva Katana, 4 kb]by DavidC

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by DavidC.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Peter Davis 04-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition #2, 3 kb]by davis.pete

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Peter Davis.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Greg Sexton 04-Jun-08
[Design 4, 3 kb]by Greg Sexton

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This entry is by Greg Sexton.

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Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Robbie Meade 03-Jun-08
[Petzl ad, 3 kb]by Robbie Meade

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

@ full article or forums discussion

Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Simon Hann 03-Jun-08
[Lyon Equipment Banner Competition: Simon Hann #3, 3 kb]by simonzxr

The brief is to design four banner adverts for climbing products from La Sportiva, Beal and Petzl using images from their websites and you can incorporate some of your own images. This...

@ full article or forums discussion

Latest Product News
Announcements direct from the manufacturers
Alpine Down Jacket 25-Jun-08
[Alpine Down Jacket from PHD, 3 kb]by PHD Mountain Software

The Alpine is a climber's down jacket, lightweight, harness & helmet friendly. The outer is 100% windproof & will shrug off showers, the high chest pockets are above harness level & the large hood will take a helmet. Box-wall construction ensures excellent warmth to weight ratio.

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Lotus 21-Jun-08
[Camp Lotus, 2 kb]by Allcord Ltd

A lightweight belay device suitable for use with single and double ropes ranging from 7.6 to 11 mm

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Spider X 20-Jun-08
[Spider X #1, 2 kb]by Ark Consultants Uk Ltd

Hybrid rock shoe incorporating many approach shoe features. The heel and tongue are padded for comfort when walking and a large tread on the sole to stop you slipping over when not on the rock. The front area of the boot is formed as a proper rock boot and gives a genuinely good feel when climbing.

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Reverso3 13-Jun-08
[Reverso3, 3 kb]by Lyon Equipment

A single device for all rope types:This multi-purpose belay/rappel device is lightweight and easy to use. The asymmetric V-shaped grooved friction channels regulate the amount of braking friction on the rope according to its diameter and condition. "Like its predecessor it is incredibly versatile: suitable for twin, double, and single ropes, it is...

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C.A.M.P. Nano 23 karabiner 12-Jun-08
[Nano 23 krab, 2 kb]by Allcord Ltd

C.A.M.P. supersedes its own record with the Nano 23 which, at 23 grams, is five grams lighter than its Nano Wire big brother while keeping the same dimensions. Good for long multi-pitch mountain routes or on-sight sport climbing where every gram counts. Ultra compact and ultra light with an 8mm rope section in accordance with UIAA regulations.

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Scottish Rock Volume 1 (South) 12-Jun-08
[Scottish Rock Volume 1 (South), 3 kb]by Gary Latter

A new two volume guidebook to the best mountain, crag, sea cliff and sport climbing in Scotland. The first volume covers the land and coast from the Highland Boundary Fault to the Great Glen. Over 1,600 selected routes.

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SteriPEN Journey 12-Jun-08
[SteriPEN Journey, 2 kb]by Rosker Ltd

SteriPEN® is the only portable water purifier that uses ultraviolet (UV) light to destroy waterborne microbes. Whatever your source, SteriPEN purifies clear water by destroying viruses,...

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Aconcagua Down Jacket 05-Jun-08
[Aconcagua Down Jacket #1, 2 kb]by PHD Mountain Software

The Aconcagua is a classic box-walled long duvet with a down hood, the ideal jacket for high peaks and high treks, where altitude and cold are the dangers.

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UAX Climbing T-Shirts 05-Jun-08
[UAX SKRAT T-SHIRTS, 2 kb]by Fish Without Meat

Want to stand out from the crowd this summer? You need to check out the great range of clothes from new active clothing company UAX, who have just released a new range of great climbing and...

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Men's Stretch Latitude Jacket 02-Jun-08
[Patagonia, 2 kb]by Patagonia

Spring flings for the alpinist: predawn turns, shaded verglas corners and high alpine storms. The Stretch Latitude's unwavering waterproof/breathable performance pairs with stretch reinforcements to keep you going in all conditions, while its soft interior glides over layers and wicks moisture. A...

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Gear Reviews
Independent reviews from the UKC gear testers
A Lakeland Climbing Pioneer: John Wilson Robinson of... 30-Jun-08
[A Lakeland Climbing Pioneer: John Wilson Robinson of Whinfell Hallby Alex Roddie

Who was John Wilson Robinson? Most climbers with an interest in history will have heard of W.P. Haskett-Smith, the legendary young man who is often credited as having invented rock climbing with his solo ascent of Napes Needle in 1886. Without wishing to take away the credit Haskett-Smith deserves for his early development of climbing, this...

@ full review or forums discussion

Clean Water On The Go: SteriPEN Adventurer 29-Jun-08
[ A natural water source ... but is it safe?, 3 kb]by Alex Roddie

"Most water filtration systems do not offer protection against viruses, and neither Chlorine nor Iodine can kill Cryptosporidium, a protozoan that can cause diarrhea. Chemical methods are...

@ full review or forums discussion

DMM Alloy Offsets 24-Jun-08
[DMM/HB Alloy Off-set nuts, 3 kb]by TobyA

DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. He finds them lacking in one department. Then DMM responds with a slight change in design.

@ full review or forums discussion

Helmets - Everything you need to know! 24-Jun-08
[Dan Middleton, belayed by Carissa Lough, practicing what he preaches at Brandy Crag, Duddon Valley, Cumbria., 3 kb]by Tom Ripley and Dan Middleton BMC

An in depth look at helmets; how they are tested, what models are available and what they are designed for. With info from the BMC and UKC gear testers.

@ full review or forums discussion

Flash Lace Up Climbing Shoe 18-Jun-08
[The Mad Rock Flash, 3 kb]by Kevin Avery

A very versatile shoe offering all day comfort, excellent technical performance, a great fit (particularly the heel) and some very sticky rubber. It would be a great choice for climbers of...

@ full review or forums discussion

Anodised Rocks 18-Jun-08
[Wild Country anodised Rocks © Wild Country, 3 kb]by Jonathan Griffith

Born in 1979 from the fertile mind of Mark Vallance, founder of Wild Country, WC Rocks are found on most climbers racks. Here Jonathan Griffith takes a fresh look at Wild Country Anodised Rocks and yes he does ask the question, DMM Wallnuts or WC Anodised Rocks?

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Reliable Air Traffic Control - BD's ATC-Sport 08-Jun-08
[The Black Diamond ATC Sport, 2 kb]by Kevin Avery

"Taaaaaaaake!" Hurtling through the air, arms bathed in lactic torment, body quivering from the exhaustion and the shock it's not a good time to be wondering if your belay device is up to scratch. Thankfully however, I stop before I hit the ground!... Kevin Avery takes the plunge - all in the name of Gear Testing! Read the new Black Diamond ATC...

@ full review or forums discussion

Deep Water 06-Jun-08
[Deep Water Rockfax, 3 kb]by Toby Foord-Kelcey

"One day I was down on a ledge sorting ropes whilst Crispin eyed possible lines around us. Then I noticed he was gone and – more puzzlingly – was not tied in." Toby Foord-Kelcey reviews the Deep Water Rockfax guide, and at the same time recounts some fascinating anecdotes of early 1980s deep water soloing exploits and characters. For anyone...

@ full review or forums discussion

Spirit Lady VCR - Impact Zone 02-Jun-08
[Lou Neill - UKC Gear Tester, 3 kb]by Lou Neill & Jenn Pacyna

Stylish, sporty and technical, Red Chili's first women's specific shoe looks and feels the business... That's what Red Chili say. Lou Neill and Jenn Pacyna take these shoes out and put them through their paces. Are they tough enough? "These are some of the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn.." says Lou Neill.

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