In the first article of a new UKC series, Rob Greenwood shares his tips for breaking into the E-barrier...

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E1 is a major - perhaps even the ultimate - milestone for a UK trad climber. It represents that point where old meets new in the quirk-ridden (but brilliant) British grading system. The mildly confusing tongue-twister grades that have come before it make way for the blissful simplicity of the alpha-numeric system that lies above. 

I think it's fair to say that everyone remembers their first E1 - as proved by the following thread. I certainly remember mine, almost like it was only yesterday, only it wasn't - it was 20 years ago (gulp)!

My first E1 was Fool's Gold (E1 5c). I climbed it with someone I didn't really know at the time, but someone who's gone on to become a lifelong friend - Simon Verspeak. We were both studying at Bangor University and Si had just joined the illustrious Bangor University Mountaineering Society (aka. BUMS). I was in my second year and on the lookout for someone keen to climb with. Si was keen, but he brought something even better than keenness: he had a car. 

We drove to the crag listening to Faithless on full volume, then did Fool's Gold pretty rapidly from what I recall (Si might say otherwise). I recall wanting to do Fool's Gold because it was renowned for having a well protected crux low down, then easing off higher up, and I knew if I could make it through that initial hard section then I should be in with a good chance. Fool's Gold went so well we headed over to Serengeti afterwards and did Seams the Same (E1 5b), which also went smoothly (although once-again, this might be my memory glossing over the harrowing belay that Si likely endured).

A lot of what's written in this article is a case of "do as I say, not as I do" because for the most part - I did the exact opposite of what I've written; however, with hindsight - and having made many, many mistakes pursuing a whole host of other grades - I could have gone about things a whole lot better!

Each new grade (VS, HVS...) had felt significant and like a step up, but at E1.... well, that's only for good climbers... -

 

Mileage, mileage, mileage…

Climbers are infrequently patient, and it's all too tempting to rush your journey to E1, but patience does pays off.

There's several reasons for this and the first is simply that there are so many good routes in the lead-up to E1 - why hurry?! The more comfortable you are climbing VS and HVS the more likely you are to have a positive experience on an E1 too, so try to see each as an investment. 

In addition to this, it's worth remembering that HVS is the hardest grade in the British grading system, so if you do find yourself having mastered it you're probably closer to climbing E2 than you'd care to imagine!

 

Learn how to stay relaxed…

Trad climbing is not typically about how hard you can pull - more often than not it's about how much you can relax. In order to achieve this you have to be comfortable in the environment you're in and that's why mileage matters as much as it does. Learn to love resting and make proactive efforts to relax when you're en route. Try not to over-grip or hunch your shoulders, because that's going to accelerate the fatigue.

Another aspect to this is becoming comfortable with the concept of placing good gear and trusting it. Wires, cams and slings are all incredibly strong when placed well, so learn what a good placement is and once you've placed it have confidence in those convictions. If you don't feel comfortable, that's perfectly natural, because there are very few who are from the outset - it takes time to gain trust (and let's face it, the whole concept of falling is pretty intimidating).

On the note of falling, many climbers would benefit from becoming more accustomed to it, because if you are comfortable with falling then it's one less thing to worry about. Granted, there is time and a place to avoid falling - but knowing when is and isn't appropriate is a useful skill to have.

Hazel Findlay has written a lot on this subject if you want to read more:

One final word on trust: trusting your gear is pointless if you don't trust your climbing partner. The best belayers know when to pay out slack, when to lock off, when to offer advice, when to shut up. Climbing is a partnership - and more often than not a friendship - that's nurtured over time as you get to know each other. Invest time in that, not least because these relationships last a lifetime, but also because you've literally got each other's lives in your hands - and that's not to be underestimated!!

The feeling of disbelief at the top is hidden down somewhere deep in my heart and is pulled out at moments I need it - never in my wildest dreams when I started out did I think I'd lead an E1

 

If you can't climb outdoors, go indoors

Different people live in different places and for some it's easy to get outside and for others it's not. Time of year can play a part too, because even if you're based five minutes from the rock it's unlikely that you're going to be able to get out/about frequently throughout the winter months, as it'll either be too cold or too wet (although the latter can be an issue in summer too!). As a result, it's not always easy to get mileage, but there's a lot you can achieve indoors.

From a trad climber's perspective there's benefit in doing routes and bouldering. Lead climbing indoors has very direct benefits, training your stamina and endurance - two things you'll need in abundance to climb your first E1. The only caveat to that is that whilst climbing indoors you tend to climb a whole lot quicker than you do on a trad climb outdoors.

If you can, and your belayer is willing, try to climb slowly and steadily - mimicking the rests you might get outside. If you want a bit of extra fun, set a timer whilst you pretend to place a particularly fiddly wire. It's a sure-fire way of making those 6as feel a lot more like 6b!

Trad climbers shouldn't ignore bouldering indoors either, because it's rare that you regret being that little bit stronger. Consider additional strength as a kind of 'get out of jail free card', because midway through a crux - it can give you options…

 

Don't forget your feet...

Important though your arms are, they're only half of the equation - getting your footwork dialled is absolutely essential. Efficient footwork will make everything easier - and that's not an exaggeration. Irrespective of whether you're indoors or out, proactively try to place your feet carefully. It's all too easy to lose form whilst you're pumped or panicked, but that's exactly when you feel the benefits of good footwork the most.

Think about your footwear too, because they are the only item of equipment that you will ever own that will proactively make you a better climber. If you're climbing a route that requires you to smear with a super-stiff downturned pair of shoes, you're going to find it hard. If you're climbing an edgy route with a super-soft set of shoes, you're going to find it hard. If your big toe is poking out the end of your shoe - you're going to find everything hard!

A weighted foot never slips

 

Know your strengths…and weaknesses…

Everyone has a climbing superpower, but everyone has their kryptonite too. It's worth bearing this in mind when you're choosing a potential objective. For example:

• If you love/hate bridging climb/avoid: Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
• If you love/hate slabs climb/avoid: Three Pebble Slab (HVS 5a)*
• If you love/hate jamming climb/avoid: Grey Panther (E1 5b)

For your first E1 I'd probably suggest sticking to your strengths, but I'd wholeheartedly recommend working your weaknesses once the dust has settled afterwards. Climbing is fantastically diverse, with different styles and rock types - each of which have their own unique character. Part of the fun lies in embracing them and occasionally getting schooled by them. Just remember to have a smile on your face as/when that happens - it's all part of the learning process (and it's supposed to be fun too).

*I am a firm believer that this is E1 and I don't care what anyone else has to say (unless you think it's E1 too).

 

If You Fall/Rest, It's Not Failure

Everyone wants to onsight their first E1, but not everyone does - and that doesn't matter. The hardest part of any route isn't its crux - it's getting on it - and you're never going to climb E1 if you don't try. Don't be afraid of giving these things a go. Just get onto them with an open mind and consider each one a learning experience: what went well, what went wrong, what could you improve upon next time? 

If I had one piece of advice (in/amongst the many I've imparted within this article) it's not to be weighed down by expectation when you get on a climb. Something I used to say before getting on routes near my limit was "I'm going for a look". I'd often start feeling quite intimidated, but by the time I was a few moves up I'd usually have got into the swing of it, and if I hadn't I could always climb down again. There's no pressure other than the pressure you pile upon yourself.

 

Have a Plan...

Going back to my first E1 - Fool's Gold - I had a plan. I knew that it had an easy start, which led to a hard crux by some good gear. I knew that if I fell on this gear it would hold. I knew that above this it eased off and if I did make it through the crux, I'd be in with a good chance of doing the rest of the route and even if I didn't - there was gear to be had within the upper reaches, so it wouldn't be a bold proposition.

It's worth coming up with a plan like this, because it breaks it down and makes processing what you need to do more manageable. You can do this through a variety of methods, with the most basic being looking up at the route and reading the description in the guidebook. From these you can usually ascertain where the crux will be and where you might be able to get some rest.

The UKC Logbooks also help to provide invaluable information on what the route is actually like. The votes for both the adjectival and technical grade give extra insight as to what to expect too, with the following example (Hangover (E1 5b) at Clogwyn y Grochan) probably not being the best place to start your E1 onsight campaign, because it's far from a soft touch!

If you've made these assessments before you leave the ground then your mind will already be prepared once you're en route.

 

Not All E1s Are Equal

the grade in the book is often more of a psychological barrier than the actual climbing

If you've got as far as E1 the chances are you're already aware that there's a wide scope within each grade. Bold routes tend to be technically easier than a well protected one. It's worth bearing this in mind and considering what may or may not be appropriate as your first of the grade. I'd always err on the side of caution and opt for something that's better protected initially, then once you're better established at the grade you can decide whether or not you wish to risk life and limb.

Another thing to consider is the environment. Single pitch outcrops are potentially the most friendly environment to begin with, because you can escape from them easily - much less so a multi-pitch sea cliff or mountain crag. Much like the aforementioned bold routes that you can come back to, maybe save those more committing routes until you're more confident.