UKC

In a previous post I successfully argued that Ilkley is the best crag in the Uk.Has anybody got any views on the worst crag in the UK

In reply to c8:

Ilkley

In reply to flaneur: No you must have made a typing error there. What you meant to say is Malham

In reply to c8:

Stanage Popular

In reply to c8:

Stannington Ruffs?

In reply to c8:

Stannington Ruffs?

So bad, I've never even been!

Worst crag I've been to is Deeply Vale - but, to be fair, all it really requires is quite a bit of TLC and some good lines would be resurrected...

PP.

In reply to c8: middle head scar in the north york moors
its horrendous

In reply to popebenedictus: surely it's the popular end because it's so good

In reply to twigulus:Frodham is pretty grim...but Malham has got to be the worst....have never enjoyed myself there.

In reply to c8:

What about Laddow near Crowden at the moment?Greener than snot,and further slimed up by Guano.
Nevertheless, I may go back after there has been a true summer...

In reply to ourkid:

thats what makes it so bad see. The routes are good but you can't move for other people, and everything horribly polished, etc moan moan etc

In reply to veteye:
The Hanging Gardens Of Hutaple

In reply to c8:

Burnside Crag near Aviemore.

In reply to veteye:
Laddow is a great venue. except that it was freezing even in the height of summer. Wooly hats an everything

In reply to popebenedictus:
Maybe you should have had a fire going in the cave.You could even have BBQd Kermit.

In reply to c8:

i could give you a list of places I think are really jungly vegetated damp lichenous horror venues but a couple that stick in the memory are Padley Quarry in the Peak and Birk Crag in Yorkshire

In reply to veteye: Green you dont know the meaning of the word green till you have seen Frodsham.If you put Frodsham in the Sahara desert and left it there for a number of years and there was at that time a particular severe drought it would still be green. Howevere I still feel that Malham is the worst place in the Uk to climb.Sorry I know that opinion is not popular but it is what I believe.

In reply to c8: i cant understand how malham can be a bad crag
epic international sport test pieces next to easier ones and then mid grade trad o the wings, all in a fantastic situation
cant really fault it

In reply to veteye: Yes, Laddow was green but my face was even greener after the trip home in your car

Glad you got back alright!

In reply to twigulus: Dont get me started.....it is a polished over crowded sad excuse for a crag...

In reply to c8:

sounds like popular end to me

In reply to c8:

Not too fond of Whitestonecliffe.

In reply to c8:

Cool, one less person hogging the routes.

In reply to c8: if you ever make it this far north (ayrshire)
i would steer well away from mauchline gorge unless you have a very unyealding fetish for dirty climbing and have a very large brush

In reply to c8:

has to be Mells in Somerset, if you can call it a crag.

In reply to Dan_Carroll: Mells isnt that bad, as long as you dont go expecting a traditional cragging experience.

In reply to remtherockclimber: There are a few crags worse than Stannington Ruffs, but not many. Given that with a proper clean up and wholesale tree culling the Ruffs would possibly still be in the worst ten of extensive crags in the Peak/Sheffield.
I think there are several crags in the Kinder guide worse than the Ruffs, I would cite Old Pits Quarry, Cracken Edge Quarry, Mam Tor East Face, Back Tor, Chatterton Lane Quarry, River Crag (though that as an impressive esoteric charm). To give you some idea another crag in the area, John Henry Quarry, is like Coggy in comparision.
It should be said here that a lot of these gem are the work of the indefatiguable Malc Baxter.
Here is an article by John Arran about another Malc Baxter gem;
http://www.planetfear.com/articles/01_Birch_Quarry_834.html
Outside of the Peak only Lancashire has comparable truly horrible places offered up for climbing.

In reply to Al Evans:


I'd love to disagree, but then again I've been to Cadshaw quarry. Makes the occasionally esoteric gems of Lester Mill look like a memorable experience for all the right reasons.

T.

In reply to c8:

What do you mean 'successfully'? (Like 'proved' it or what?)


Never been, but afraid you compel me to say Ilkley!

In reply to petestack:

Some crag near Minehead

In reply to all:

Finedon Slabs surely?

In reply to Pursued by a bear: I really think a good clean up at Lester Mill, and possibly diversion of the drainage water and Lester Mill would be an ace quarry.

In reply to galpinos:


That's the worst I've been to certainly.

In reply to c8: If we're having a go at Lancshire, then Stanworth takes some beating, a lot of it has disappeared and what remains is tainted with the smells and wind blown dietritus of the landfill that is eating it

In reply to scoobydougan: Thats a shame, it wasn't bad when we first went there, some really good routes that hardly needed cleaning. Most of the routes were done on sight.

In reply to Al Evans: Have you ever 'climbed' in Leicestershire ? I remember some real grotty, vegetated places there, all visited once & never again.

I also remember crags such as some of those in the Ochils that look impressive from a distance but are loose conglomerate

In reply to popebenedictus:

Amen Brother! Unless I'm stopping off at Burbage, I have to drive past it on my way from home into the Peak. The Plantation onwards is excellent though.
Funnily enough I'm also thinking of the Roaches, with both crags you can hardly hear yourself think over the shouting and clanking of tons of gear.

In reply to c8:

Gollum's Cave at Avon. It has to be the sorriest excuse for a crag ever to secure an illustrated article in a magazine extolling its wholly imaginary charms. It's best left to the junkies, shaggers and firestarters who habitually frequent the place.

Imagine a disused fireplace, littered with broken glass, ash, rotting mattresses and other slimy and infectious-looking objects, all set on a damp, wooded and muddy hillside and you have it.

There's no climbing worth soiling your shoes for either, unless sit starts out of a fireplace are your bag, but you'll never get the stains out of anything that touches the ground.

In reply to c8:
stonestar in the duddon valley, lake district. its utter choss.

In reply to c8:

The mods successfully pulled 33% of your threads too.

In reply to c8:
Cadshaw because it looks so good yet is so crap, or Roundbarn because it looks so crap and is so crap.

In reply to c8:

I can't make my mind up which is the worst of these three that I've had the displeasure of visiting

Armathwaite Quarry (aka the black hole) Eden Valley
Crag Point - Northumberland
Binnie Craig - West Lothian

In reply to Doug: Some of the most dissapointing crags are those of The Storr
http ://www.trekkingbritain.com/070710-thestorrviatheoldmanofstorr/20070710H-LookingUpAt TheForebodingCliffsOfTheStorr.JPG
There are a few winter routes and of course the pinnacles primarily the Old Man of Storr (with routes on it from E2 to E4)
http ://www.trekkingbritain.com/070710-thestorrviatheoldmanofstorr/20070710G-TheHugeAndImpressive OldManOfStorrDwarfsWalkersAtItsFoot.JPG
Miss out the spaces, it wont let me put the link in without a space.

but on the whole it is poor for what looks like an impressive 350ft high face from a distance.

In reply to Lord of Starkness:


See my 9.58 post above


I now live less than 4 miles from here and have never even bothered to visit as it has a 'reputation' for being a pile of shite. Is it worth looking at at all?

In reply to c8:

can't remember the name but there's one down the hill from slipstones. sliming closely behind, i'd say is docky dam near rochdale.

horrendous.

In reply to c8: The worst sports crag must be Barrow Scout Cove.Plenty of choss and loose blocks on this one. In the summer the surrounding area is transformed into a micro rainforest populated by armies of ticks, midges and mosquitos just waiting to pounce on any unsuspecting souls. What a waste of bolts!

In reply to c8:
Any of the Southern Sandstone crags, but even calling them crags would be an insult to the ones listed above...

In reply to ruckman: I recall inspecting some crag in the churnet valley and near Alton Towers and it was truly horrible,

In reply to c8:

I thought we did this last year and the consensus was Docky Dam near Rochdale?

Enty

In reply to c8:

Any grit crag. They are too short & too crowded.
Tintern is also a sh1t hole.

In reply to c8:

Cherry Hinton chalk pit. Out of the ones in a guidebook, Finedon Slabs.

In reply to c8: There's a place quite near Craigmore, north of glasgow, which I went to about 4 or 5 years ago, and I rememeber it being garbage and a waste of time..... some sport and some trad I think.... I'd also be interested in finding out what it was called!

Andy

In reply to c8:

One man's horror is another man's gem

In reply to c8:

Dalis Hole !

In reply to c8:
Anywhere in the crafnant valley. Can only be described as rubble held together by vegetation, moss and algae. Utterly grim.

In reply to c8:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2727

would get my vote
pain in the arse to get to, and when you do you'll wish you hadn't bothered

In reply to graeme jackson:

What 9.58 post?

I to stayed in digs for a short while at Livingston -- Binnie makes a pleasant walk on a summer evening, and whilst it looks impressive is definitely not worth looking at unless you're a devotee of seriously friable rock. For 'decent' (sic) evening rock we'd either go to Rosyth or Auchinstarry!

In reply to c8: For me it's a tough choice - Stanage - overcrowded overhyped pile of poo, with far too many Londoners with their cockney rhyming slang, jellied eel and Range Rover Sport HSE's. Then there is Burbage. So short that if you can jump high you can slap the top of some of the routes. But for me the crown goes to Ramshaw Rocks. This place had been built up in my mind as a mecca for crack. I got there and realise the place is tiny and crap. How anybody could be so deluded to think it is good is beyond me. And I love crack climbing.

Places which deserve an honerable mention: Dinder woods - it took months to get over the nettle stings. The Cuttings at portland (at least at the left hand end) is a polished pile of cack.

In reply to Lord of Starkness:
i meant 9.53 similar shape

In reply to mike kann:

Luckily the price of fuel and concern for their Carbon Footprint will start to reduce the number of southerners. However the Range Rover has been driven over the hill from Sheffield by me.

Ban-y-gor gets my vote.

In reply to c8:

I've just read that thread and can't see how anyone but a moron would think your argument was successful. Everyone disagreed with you. Is that your measure of success?

In reply to mike kann: Dinder wood? a bad crag? youve got to be having a laugh! Once you get past the nettles, the climbings pretty good and the situation is beautiful. For bonus points you can even avoid the nettles by abbing in from the top.

In reply to SC:

I loves Tintern. The 9m wall is ultra convenient and the big routes are great apart from the scree and the having to dodge head sized boulders from above (Got hit on the back by one a couple of weeks ago, while I was running around trying to dodge it)

Not been to enough places to find anything that bad. I don't like Wyndcliffe quarry because I can't see the point in it when you've got Wintours and Wyndcliffe crag (and Tintern for sport) nearby.

Still not been to Mells or the nettley place.

In reply to andyinglis:

Most of the venues around Glasgow Craigmore included are horrible, although I still climb there as there is nowhere else close enough for the evenings!

You've got:

Craigmore which is a midge infested swamp with nasty slimy overgrown routes.
Dumbarton again slimy with great views of all Dumbarton's tower blocks and the bay with half sunk shopping trolleys dotted around. Plus nothing a mere mortal could actually climb.

And Auchinstarry another midge infested swamp complete with drunken teenage chavs on a nice summers day and rats swimming around in the water. Unstable rock, made less stable by the council and now with atmospheric signs all around reminding you of the unstable rock, it's also sandy and there are some conveniently placed bramble bushes at the bottom of the routes for you to fall off into.

This is my favourite local venue, for some reason despite all the above I seem to go there regularly.

In reply to Elsieriley:

There's some good climbing at Auchinstarry; I've driven there from Glencoe for the day.

In reply to mike kann:

I forgot about Ramshaw. Bit disapointing driving all the way up there for a 5 metre high crag.
Dinder wasn't that bad.

In reply to c8: Dunlichity.

In reply to remtherockclimber: I DID abseil in. The routes are not exactly anything to write home about and when I was there the nettles were up to our nipples. And the top outs are over grown too... Id rather go to Cheddar...

In reply to Elsieriley: Try again again mate! Dumbarton and Auchinstarry are nowhere near craigmore! Craigmore is positive good compared to location I can't remember name of!!!

In reply to mike kann: Well its improved markedly since your visit, you can even mooch about at the bottom without being stung, what luxury.

In reply to mike kann:

No nettles at Cheddar, just loose rock & ivy. We should have a go at Megalomania soon.

In reply to remtherockclimber: Maybe I'll have to give it another go... if it's the same I will hunt you down and kill you like a dog...

In reply to mike kann: eeek!

p.s. try spring haze on the far left of the crag, if you havent already. One of the better routes there in my opinion.

In reply to andyinglis:

Think thats probably Dunglas your thinking of. Its been re-bolted, but is still a bit crap and very loose. But still better than it was..

Cheers

In reply to remtherockclimber: Well last time the rash didn't go down in a week. I was wearing shorts so I suppose I deserved it...

In reply to graeme jackson:

The poster is a troll. That is clear. But it is an interesting topic. So thank you C8.

As grit quarries go, Ilkley is limited, the natural edges there less limiting. But it has some outstanding climbs both natural and quarried - at most grades.

As far as the old BMC crag ranking goes, it would rate as a venue of National importance, but low on the scale. Whereas somewhere like Stanage is a national climbing treasure, and of International significance both for the number and quality of climbs and its history.

Mick

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

You need to enrich your life with stuff other than climbing

In reply to Donald M:

At least he'd pass the real food shop in Tyndrum. best fish and chips north of the border.

In reply to graeme jackson:

Whit? Shite in comparison with Norries in Oban or Big D's in Tarbet.

In reply to Donald M: I've had 2 fish suppers in Oban, no idea what the chippy was called and they weren't that special but at least they were a billion times better than that overhyped crap in anstruther and crail.

In reply to Donald M:
or allan water cafe in bridge of allan

honestly the plaice in tyndrum is OK but it's not that cod, i mean good

In reply to SC:

Ramshaw indeed! If that's your idea of a poor crag then you are going to be be disappointed fairly often.

You should try Cotton Bank. Great route names, but actually a wet moss-encrusted boulder in the middle of dense woodland miles from anywhere.

In reply to graeme jackson:

That would ber the Oban Fish and Chip shop. It is rubbish compared to Norries. I like slimy batter though.

In reply to c8: Can't remember the name of it, but its a horrible roadside Limestone crag over the trough of Bowland near dunsop bridge.

In reply to rallymania:
My band'll be playing in B of a on 14th november. I'll look it up.

In reply to c8:

Castleberg left
Cadshaw
Various quarries near Kinder eg Crowden Great Quarry

In reply to Dave Garnett: Ah but you see part of its crapness was that we had heard it was meant to be good. Where as Cotton Bank I'd never heard of and there are only 8 climbs so will never drive from Somerset to go there. As far as I was concerned it was a waste of a 3 hour drive. Especially as we then went to the Roaches, Iain broke his arm so the total driving time involved in the trip then suddenly doubled as I went home and then came back the next day...

In reply to graeme jackson:
it's one fo those places that does your order fresh for you
it's not bad at all

on a side note, where you in AR1 last night?

In reply to c8:

Wow, some people really need to get out more. Anybody who thinks Stanage, Malham (even if it is dirty limestone nonsense), Ramshaw, Laddow, Frodsham, Auchinstarry or any one of the numerous good crags mentioned already might be the worst crag in the UK needs their head seeing to.

I'm pretty sure wherever it is that I haven't been there. It certainly isn't Ivy Scar, the climbing there is pretty fun, it's just a shame there's only 2 gear placements on the whole crag.

In reply to c8:

Stannington Ruffs is pretty awful (for what could be/have been ok)
Similarly, Dukes Quarry is going the same way (but has excellent routes that just need a clean)
Are the Huntsham crags in the Wye still there or have they disappeared under ivy, nettles and leaf mould?
Finally, the lower Churnet valley has some gorse bush-infested conglomerate blobs that call themselves crags...

And that's without looking at mountain areas.

J

In reply to victim of mathematics: Wow you really have got a optimistic view of the world. How can you describe Frodsham as a good crag. Must be all that maths you are doing.

In reply to c8:

I once went prospecting in an area I refuse to name for fear that others may be tempted to follow. The disused quarries marked on the OS map were messy little scrapes in the ground apparently for stone for field boundaries and the quality of the rock was evidently of little concern. I spent the day dangling on various mudslopes above agricultural detritus and nettles and found absolutely nothing of quality except a pub on the way home. It was surprisingly enjoyable, but if anyone was ever vainglorious enough to write the routes and "crags" up, I fear that there would be a lot of disappointed climbers cursing them.

In reply to Al Evans:

Actualy I thought 1847 was a good and entertaining route.
On the other hand, , Entanglements nearly saw two of us off at one fell swoop. In fact, as we skulked away bruised and in shock I cursed the wicked wall and its stones for thus deceiving me.
Most memorable thing about Stannington apart from the demise of the aforesaid V.Diff was the mini waterfall which ran down from someone's back garden like an unstaunched wench.

In reply to c8:

What you're really saying is every time you've been to Malham you've had your weak backside slapped, so therefore you've not enjoyed yourself. Just admit you're not good enough for one of, if not the premier sport climbing venues in the UK, start training hard, improve, go back and then try not to get slapped again.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell: You have to admit that the crag is very polished and that the place looks pretty ugly.

In reply to c8: Some routes are a bit polished, but so are many routes on many other crags. Ugly! Stunning more like...

Andy F

In reply to c8:

I lived in Frodsham for 22 years and went climbing there quite a few times...it's got some good problems and nice rock...just as good as some yotkshire grit crags...granted it's not Scafell but if you think its thr worst crag in the UK youve really got something coming!

I agree with GrahamD, Cherry Hinton and Finedon Slabs must rate highly. There are some pretty grim limestone quarries about as well. Im intrigued about AlEvans's list of peak crags...when the new kinder guide is released I'll have to check them out...

In reply to c8:
Go and do Carnage Left-Hand then tell me Malham is ugly.

In reply to c8:

Malham Cove is a beautiful natural feature. Go there at a quiet time and it's such a peaceful, relaxing place.

In reply to Si dH:
>>
>Agreed. OK, it can get green but it's in such a lovely, relaxing setting - in my opinion not one of the worst but one of the best.

In reply to Si dH: I have it is.

In reply to c8:

Have you ever climbed at the Avon Gorge?

In reply to Gordon Stainforth: No as yet not. But have seen it a few times. Looks grim...could be the worst...but as I say have not yet have had the misfotune of climbing on it.

In reply to c8:

Um ... you'll get a bit of a shock after the beautiful rock and beautiful setting of Malham ...

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

You trying to say this place is worth than Malham??

In reply to c8:

Do you mean 'worse'? If so, I assume you are joking and have obviously never climbed on quite few limestone crags in and around Bristol and the Wye Valley. Let alone SE Wales .. !! .. !!! ,,,

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Actually yes have climbed in SE Wales...my God forgot about those crags... one place near Merphyr Tydfill can not rememember name (Cefyn Coed?)... was seriously grim.

In reply to c8:

Absolutely .. and that really was one of the better ones, if not the best! It's now reverted to overgrown dank jungle again.

In reply to c8: That slate quarry down towards the end of Borrowdale is minging.Stagnant pool, mossies, huge unstable spikes to land on, no view. Can't think of any redeeming quality....I still resent having wasted a morning there! Never mind the completeness of historical records, don't bother including it in future guides!

my God forgot about those crags... one place near Merphyr Tydfill can not rememember name (Cefyn Coed?)... was seriously grim.


Well at least it fitted in to its surroundings. MT is a top 5 candidate for the biggest, grimmest dump in the UK.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Sounds appropriate it reverting to a dark jungle remember now a couple of mates saying they were climbing there one time and were shot at by the local youths!.

In reply to c8:

OK, you've passed the entrance exam into SE Wales shitology, but ... have you ever climbed at Taffs Wells ? ? ?

In reply to c8:

I'm sure Al will be able to confirm this, but I'm sure that one of Bonington's 'Desert Island Routes' in Crags magazine was Boysen's Route at Frodsham.

It's a nice little crag. There are nevertheless some real cess pits masquerading as crags awaiting those who have taken against Frodsham, Ramshaw, Avon (bar Gollum's Cave)

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

God yeah its all coming back to me ... did a horrible HVS there ages ago vowed I would never go back!

In reply to c8:

You're either a very clever troll, or the real article.

In reply to c8:

Pindale Quarry, Not even Gibson got his Hilti out for this one!

Stannington Ruffs, I'm quite fond of it as a pleasant woodland spot.

Padley Quarry, Like Stannington its not a bad spot, just needs a clean to spruce up the climbs.

Birch Quarry, The VD arete is actually a really nice route, as is the wall to its right. (the only vaguely climbable rock in the place)

Granitethorpe Quarry, More like it! Pool full of detritus, overgrown and fenced off with access down dog$hit lane. Still lacks that urban squalor factor.

Carvers Rocks? Southern sandstone comes north but leaves the quality behind.. in a nature reserve though so instantly disqualified.

Laddow, are you serious? Whats a bit of Green?

I'm sure many of the Swansea area quarries are very squalid (the dead dog with its guts out mentioned in the Gower guide makes Penrhiwceiber quarry sound worthy) but I don't know any of them, so I'll nominate..

Chatterton lane quarry. Full of rubbish, disused rifle range, overgrown and I didn't even tick the diff. (The arete looks quite good though).

In reply to earlsdonhammer:

You mean Dalt Quarry, thats picturesque compared to many of the recommendations already

In reply to DerwentDiluted:


I think I don't like it coz I nearly pulled a block the size of a washing machine off on my head whilst attempting a solo there. Fortunately I realised quite quickly it was loose so backed off and ran away


Padley Quarry 1991 Froggatt guide:

"It is not a nice place being small and heavily wooded. Most of the routes contain vegetation and loose rock. It dries slowly after rain and when dry and sunny suffers from millions of ants which have established territorial rights.......Unfortunatly this quarry was discovered in 1953 by Don Morrison .......The shallow, smaller left hand bay contains poor quality overgrown rock. Only the desperate will climb here but its said to be good training for some of the gritstone quarries south of Matlock...."

In reply to popebenedictus:

Look, somewhere like Padley is really, really nice compared with some of the places that have been suggested in Lancashire or S E Wales.

In reply to popebenedictus:

I too tried soloing a route at Padley quarry (redant) and backed off from the slabs as I prefer life to posthumous crag ticks! Its a long way off the worst in the uk though. Pleasant woodland spot an all. No soiled nappys for a landing. No graffitti, no dead dogs and a block of rock the size of a washing machine is a long way off being an actual washing machine!

In reply to DerwentDiluted:

I think it was redant i was on, but i take your point.
I reckon a more interesting thread would be "whats the worst crag you've visited?" I'm expecting one of the old-timers to turn up and tell us none of the crags today are anywere near as bad as they were back in them days

In reply to popebenedictus:

BTW, many crags were in much better condition and much less overgrown 40 years ago than they are today.

In reply to c8:

Dalmahoy Hill (near Edinburgh)

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
What about ogmore.....ever climbed there??.

In reply to c8:

Yes. Ogmore is very good - by far the best crag in SE Wales, imo. The truth is, if you live in, say, Cardiff, it's a question of Ogmore versus all the rest. Or you go a little bit further afield, to the Gower, Avon, or Wye Valley.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Gower every time!. Assassin...one of best HVS in uk!

In reply to mike kann:



You're right. People topping out on Ramshaw Crack usually remark that it's OK but all over far too quickly. And Foord's Folly; all you hear is 'F*ck me, this is short"

Baldstones is even more crap; for all the hype that Ray's Roof is all over in about 15 feet

In reply to Dave Garnett: Lol

In reply to popebenedictus: A few years ago I climbed at Laddow on a sunny day in February and it was really pleasant!

In reply to Rob Davies:

Yes, there are some really good routes there - like Priscilla Ridge, one of the very best HVSs in the Peak, on superb rock; and Tower Face at VS is a testing classic.

In reply to Ava Adore:

Anyone out there claiming that Stannington Ruffs is a gem?

Stannington Ruffs wins the UK, if not the world, title wins hands down, even compared to obscure Sussex/Kent sandstone crags, but there are a lot of quarries in Lancashire jostling for No. 2 position, eg Stanworth - partly filled in, the big mistake was not to fill the whole thing in.

In reply to tom valentine:
Most memorable thing about Stannington apart from the demise of the aforesaid V.Diff was the mini waterfall which ran down from someone's back garden like an unstaunched wench.

Actually that froze one year so we went back to do it with appropriate gear, smacked the picks into the bottom section and the whole thing peeled off, turned out the waterfall was still flowing behind the ice. Still if it ever gets really cold again......

In reply to Al Evans:

An unstaunched wench?!

In reply to Dave Garnett: And while we're on the subject, why would a staunched wench be better?

T.

In reply to Dave Garnett: I deliberately didn't comment for fear of looking stupid

In reply to Dave Garnett: Actually I looked it up now , apparently it's a literary reference

“she is as leaky as an unstaunched wench” is from Shakespeare, Act One Scene One, “The Tempest” in reference to a ship.

In reply to Al Evans:

Ah, the Bard was certainly one for a pithy phrase. Presumably it referred more to an inconvenient dribble in the era of inadequate sanitary provision rather than a waterfall in a quarry but it's certainly a phrase I shall store for later use!

In reply to rallymania:

Nope. Haven't been climbng for a couple of weeks. My climbing partner's working abroad at the minute which is just as well as I've buggered my knee running down from the Storrr. Going to try a session at the gym tonight to see if it's working yet.

In reply to scoobydougan: I thought Stanworth was closed due to infill, is it there still climbing there?

In reply to Lawrie Brand: Rosyth Quarry not pop into your head Mr Brand? Neds, Burnt out cars and kids with Guns.

Kinda sticks in my head as- Number 1

In reply to c8: Lets set a few paramiters here, joking aside(Malham, Stanage etc) for a crag to be in the top ten it needs to fulfill a few if not all of the following criteria
1. Crap rock, probably dangerous.
2.Poor or difficult access
3.Grim unattractive outlook
4.Lots of vegetation
5.No lines to speak of
6.Seepage
7.Cold, no sunlight.
8.Other problems which could include local yooves hurling stones at you, wild animals, biting insects etc
9.High disappointment factor-ie looked good in a picture or some madman's guidebook description from 30 years ago.

I think rather a lot of uk crags could fit the bill but I think the search really needs to concentrate on either Lancashire or the South west, home of many appalling crag connoisseurs. My personal favorites would have to be Parbold Quarry, although it does have lines, and Banygor. Shit.

In reply to hueco:

IIRC Parbold has some decent rock, easy access, is nicely wooded, not massively vegetated (i.e. fairly clean), has some good lines, doesn't seep much,isn't too cold, there's no problem with youths hurling stuff at ya, and as long as you remember it's a hole in the ground, not too disappointing. Ok, it's not Malham or Cloggy, but it doesn't claim to be either.

Andy F

In reply to nniff: Yes I don't think Frodsham, Helsby or even the breck can be included, although slight, green and with few great lines Frodsham is
still in a nice bit of woodland, and I did learn to climb there after all!

In reply to Andy farnell: I take it all back Andy, perhaps my memory is fading but it didn't seem too great at the time, residing so close to a large landfill. Round Barn quarry also springs to mind along with banygor in sw and the appalling gollums cave. However i still think the worst crag has to be somewhere in Lancashire!

In reply to hueco:

No I think Frodsham is definitely in contention for the worst crag in uk...the fact that it is in a 'nice bit of woodland'keeps it wet the whole year round.

In reply to c8:

Can I put it to you, sir, that you know nowt?

In reply to Pekkie:

A bit unfair...I know what I like and I happen not to like Frodsham.

In reply to c8: Dovestone Tor. Chossy, slimy pile of shite.

In reply to wayno265:
Never been there but you seem intelligent so will take your word for it.

In reply to c8:

What an intelligent post! University material me thinks??

In reply to c8: Not so much intelligent as sulking after a day's climbing like a tw*t at Dovestone Tor. It is slimy and vegetated in places, and doesn't suit me as a climbing venue, but the outlook is stunning and the grouse very entertaining.

In reply to wayno265:

Ok so what do the grouse do thats so entertaining?

Whitwick Rocks or Finedon

In reply to Bulls Crack:


Crowden Great or Brockholes. both absolute bobbins.

We are obviously not including any limestone in this, coz I wouldnt know where to start, probably Malham. Not because of the routes, but beacuse of the atmosphere that pervades.

In reply to NorthernRock:

Yet another stupid, unfounded and just plain wrong comment about Malham. The atmosphere on the catwalk or upstairs is friendly and welcoming, no matter if your redpointing your first 7a or 9a, everyone is supportive. As for the routes, the position, the variety etc etc go find me a better UK crag with both high quality sport and trad.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

To be fair on Malham, I agree with Andy here. Malham can be a pain as it feels defeating, but everyone there is friendly and the atmosphere is good. Everyone there has been spanked one time or another, so they can understand when malham virgin walks up and falls off the warm up route!

In reply to snoop6060:

But that's no reflection on the objective quality of the cliff itself; more the subjective perceptions of the climber.

In reply to andy farnell:

No doubt about it Malham has got an unfriendly atmoshere...give you a better crag for trad routes and I give you Ilkley Armscliff Caley Brimham Eastby ... need I go on!!

In reply to c8: Read the message. Sport and Trad. Other crags may have better trad, but in combination? Malham did have an unfriendly atmosphere, a very definite clique, but those day's are long gone. I've seen 8c climbers giving honest and open support to people redpointing thier first 7a. 99% of the people who go there are just climbers and support other climbers whatever the grade.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

Yeah good to hear that ... must admit have not been there in a while....permanently put off in the late 80`s with the people who used to habit the cat walk.

In reply to c8:



Sorry, but this statement is ridiculous.
I will not even justify it with an explanation.

In reply to andy farnell:


Agree with this. I RP'd my first 7a at Malham this summer and the guys next door on an 8b couldn't have been more genuinely enthusiastic with their encouragement.

In reply to martin heywood:

Why are you bothering even answering that idiot, he is either winding you up or knows the square root of sod all.

In reply to sutty:

A little bit harsh was just voicing my opinion. Has sutty had a bad day?

In reply to c8:

You can get a good view of the worst crag in the UK from the sea off Crag Point Tyneside.

In reply to c8:

I think Suttys probably having a clever day from What I've read so far on this thread.

In reply to bouldery bits:

Not another fan of Frodsham??.

In reply to c8:

Nope, not that...

In reply to bouldery bits:
Good...so have you got any views on the worst crag in uk?

In reply to c8:

Well, I feel that I've not experienced enough of the UK to make an informed statement on the subject. However, I suspect it could well be an entirely subjective question based upon different individuals experiences at different venues and the different emotions and events they associate with that place.

In reply to bouldery bits:
Your not a sociologist are you?

In reply to c8:

oh no, archaeologist.

In reply to c8:

Underockes Annex, Southern Sandstone, near Tunbridge Wells.

In reply to DerwentDiluted:


I've climbed the VS on the slab at Granitethorpe (The Weatherman?) - quite a pleasant spot I thought at the time. I remember, in midsummer sunshine, abseiling down towards a jade green pool and watching huge, dark carp floating like aquatic zeppelins.

I am genuinely surprised how many people have mentioned Finedon Slabs on this thread. I've climbed there but I lived in Northampton - what's everyone else's excuse?

In reply to bouldery bits:
But not a geologist otherwise you would realise that Frodsham is indeed a contender for the worst crag in the uk.

In reply to c8:

Did you have a bad day at Frodsham?

In reply to c8:

Well the Breck is 'worse' than Frodsham for starters!


Chris

In reply to bouldery bits:
A very bad day.....hospital and not being able to walk for 6 months....

In reply to c8:

Then for you Frodsham is most definitely the worst crag in the Uk.

In reply to Al Evans:

I'd like to nominate Millhead Quarry as being the worst crag in the UK. Anybody responsible for doing new routes there should feel ashamed of themselves. It's no wonder the Lancashire guide is so thick...

In reply to bouldery bits:
Actually and strangely no.Worst crag for me is actually Malham. Frodsham though definitely in the top few.

Frodsham is beautiful - good problems excellent training ground. Layde bay is possibly a good contender - crumbling sports routes only tall enough for 2 bolts, high first clips, rust, slime and poor landings on the boulder problems..and no climbing signs to boot - then again perfect for sunsets, evening bar be cues and general climbing banter about potential high balls.. plus I've heard there's a good trad e3 around the corner in a sea cave. Every esoteric venue has appeal with right conditions, tides, people -

In reply to georgenorth:

Hahaha, you obviously know that I've done new routes at Millhead Quarry, but you can't blame me for its inclusion, there were already routes there before mine, in anycase there are far worse crags than Millhead Quarry, you need to get out more.

In reply to c8: I think a few of the old North of England guide crags could be contenders for this, at least in their current condition. In fact there are a few limestone quarries I've climbed in on the tops around Castle Carrock and Talkin which were presumably too crap to even make it into that exalted tome, the location's hard to beat though.

In reply to coinneach:

Quite good in winter though - comes into condition surprisingly often!

In reply to NickMoore:

And try Curving Gulley - a mountaineering 'classic'!

In reply to Al Evans:

Withnell?

In reply to c8: Anyone here climbed in Castle Eden Dene? The Durham Denes may be pretty but they've got some exquisitely awful climbing.

In reply to c8:

So your definition of a poor crag - Malham, Frodsham - is one where you got your arse spanked and you limped away?

In reply to c8:

Ruthin Escarpment...

In reply to Jay_Kay: if a 'crag' can be defined as something within a climbing guidebook then Finedon Slabs has got to be a clear winner...

Failing that my vote goes to Chudleigh (sp?) - probably the only crag I very quickly made a mental note never to return to

In reply to Pekkie:

Yep...can you think of a better definition?

In reply to StuartM:

Chudleigh's alright!!!!

I remember a second ascent ( I was holding the rope, which seemed a bit pointless) on Upton Slabs near Bude in the 80's....that was pretty awful.

In reply to Chris Craggs: There is nothing wrong with the Breck!

In reply to c8:

Yessir. Looseness, no gear/death routes, vegetated, rubbish dump at the bottom etc, etc. By your definition any crag which has routes that you find too hard is poor. You're just a dafty.

In reply to Wile E. Coyote:

Well its fine if you have never been anywhere else - like Frodsham for example!

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Al's old stamping ground - Agden Rocher

In reply to Pekkie:
The former reasons you have listed are the causation of the latter.

In reply to c8: south stone rock near worcester. limestone covered in moss, scum and dirt wet most of the year round and hardly climbed/ cleanned at all. It sucks.