UKC

What are the best venues (crags or broader areas) for long (200-300m) sport routes grades 5/5+ in or near Europe? I'm thinking of sport bolting, not a bolt every 10m, and rock routes rather than Alpine.

I liked Ariege and would go back. There's a bit of multipitch in Costa Blanca and El Chorro but I wouldn't go there specifically for that. Not sure which of the classic multipitch destinations like Verdon are good (and well bolted) in the lower grades - would love to hear views on this. Thanks!

Chee Tor Girdle (VS 5a)

Stuff around Grimsell pass and also southwards into Tessin/Ticino offers quite a bit of plaisir bolted stuff in the 5 range. There’s even one of the longest multipitch sportroutes in around there (Via del Veterano).

Granted all of these routes are on the slabbier side of things. But not super runout by any means. Von Känels Plaisir topos give s good indication of these.

there is also a reasonable amount of bolted multipitch stuff around Sarca-valley near Arco.

Blue Line (5c) 

Great contender at the grade, easy approach, easy walk off, well bolted

I’d have thought Ailefroide would be a strong contender to satisfy your requirements…

Ailefroide - West Side of the Valley

Thought that Via del veterano (5a) was massive sandbag. Anyone climbing a max of 5 would have an interesting day. Very tricky descent too unless you take the long way.

Yeah, the I did not feel it being an easy one… there’s also a supposed second line next to it with a tad harder grade.

as for the descent, the path was not too bad… actually rather straight forward path, and a lot better than multiple other approach pants I’ve used elsewhere in the alps. And it’s not that long off a walkoff… atleast when I did it.

What about the Aiguilles Rouges in Chamonix? Lots of options at multiple crags, including Les Cheserys, and the crags around the Index. If you can push the grade to 6a a whole bunch of other stuff becomes doable, including the climbing in the Vallon de Barade, the classic Frison-Roche (TD- 6a) on the Brevant, and much of the climbing around the Emosson dam just across the border in Switzerland

We walked off via Ciòss. The shorter descent seemed to end on a muddy gully choked with fallen trees.

Perhaps things have changed. When I did it, I don’t remember anything remarkable from the descent. So either the path has washed away (quite possible, I did this like 10 years ago) or you lost the descent trail (it was a path, but don’t remember it being super well marked).

For something a little more exotic, you might look at areas around Berchtesgaden. Göll Göll has several fully bolted limestone climbs around your preferred grade, as has Untersberg.

Another off the beaten track venue would be Val Maira in Italy ... solid, well bolted quarzite in an idyllic setting on real mountains.

Oh ... and the combination of Riglos, Pena Rueba and Mallos Aguero has some really special, well bolted routes at that grade.

How about  Miroir de l'Argentine have done a few good routes there at that grade. Absolutely stunning piece of rock. In fact there’s a lot around 5 in the general area once you hunt around the non English guidebooks.

I know the Val Maira in winter but didn't realise there was good rock climbing there.  I know of the Rocca Provenzale (but haven't done it).  Seems to be very little marked on UKC map.  I do know the French side of the border there in summer (nice rather quirky French guide).  

At least in the UKC database, these areas appears to use the UIAA grade for all routes - sport and trad. I'm guessing that the OP's requested 5/5+ is a French grade - suggesting that at the crags you mention Conor could be looking in the V+ to VI range.

Does this sound accurate?

Yes Fr. 5+ approximately relates to 6, 6a to 6+. Some of the old classics tend to be graded a little stiffer.

Yes, most of the climbing is along the Rocca Provencale - Rocca Castello Ridge. Quite a bit of information can be found here: https://www.cuneoclimbing.it/multipitch, scroll down ab bit ...

Great ideas, thanks

brilliant!  thanks.  I love that valley in winter.

I recall a decent number of multi pitch sport routes in that grade at Villanova de Meia: https://27crags.com/crags/vilanova-de-meia/description

It was so long ago the only thing I really remember is that a trad rack and approach was very, very useful. I also recall a few groups of extremely hospitable and friendly local climbers.