UKC

This weekend is currently looking dry and I’d love to battle with some cracks!

Need to buy a couple big cams for wider stuff so north peaks is best.

I’m thinking either Froggatt, Curbar, S Plantation or S Popular. Haven’t been to any of them except one evening hell midge fest at Stanage Pop this Sept.

The latter two may be better to gamble on a slim chance of sun but wonder if I’m missing anything! Or Froggatt for marginally more wind protection? Cracks at the former two may be spicy as quite green this time of year?

Thanks in advance ✌🏼

In reply to fredpilkington:

I'd probably choose Curbar out of those but might just be bias.

Rivelin has a few cracks too, faces south and is sheltered. Rhododenron crack; nonsuch; easy picking

Cratcliffe is south but great this time of year: Tom Thumb (E2 5c) etc

In reply to fredpilkington:

Hen Cloud will be dry, and has plenty of cracks and jamming tests at all grades, including wider ones. Will be cold on top, mind!

In reply to fredpilkington:

It has been very, very wet, allthough there will doubtless be plenty of dry rock this weekend I suspect most crack lines will be decidedly soggy, especially at sheltered crags. I'd probably head to stannage, just cos there's more routes so more chance of something dry! 

In reply to fredpilkington: Thanks all! Really appreciated! I’ll head to Stanage Saturday and go from there! 💪🏽

Done the fantastic Kremlin and Roof route at Rivelin. Rhododendron is on the wish list, looks hilarious.

Tom Thumb looks class!

Don’t see too many classic cracks at Hen Cloud from my ticklist research tbh!

In reply to fredpilkington:

Hen Cloud Eliminate (HVS 5b)

Bachelor's Climb (VS 4c)

Central Climb Direct (VS 5a)

Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b)

All classic cracks!

In reply to fredpilkington:

Rhododendron crack was filthy and green when I did it this summer. Can't imagine it is anything but much worse right now! (Big cams are practically useless on it fyi).

If cracks anywhere on the eastern edges are likely to be dry then it will be Curbar but it will be reyt cold.

In reply to LakesWinter:

I did splutter when I read that HC didn't have any good crack climbs  

Those suggestions would be the top of the pile. Could also consider:

Man Oh Man (E4 6a) -- hard off-finger, has scalped at least one crack expert

A Flabby Crack (E6 6c)

The Stone Loach (E5 6b) or Anthrax (E3 6a) for the finishing crack

The Better End (E3 6a)

Reunion Crack (VS 5a)

Encouragement (E1 5b) pitch 2, thoughts and prayer for the frozen belayer though

Hedgehog Crack (VS 4c)

Rainbow Crack (VS 5a)

Edit: Hen Cloud takes relatively little drainage from above, and it's exposed nature and moderately lower altitude than roaches skyline means that it's often dry when other nearby crags are seeping or in mist. YMMV, of course. Like all grit crags, can be miserable in winter in the wrong circumstances.

In reply to fredpilkington:

Millstone Edge? Loads of classic and hard cracks; maybe a bit exposed to the elements though, and not sure how fast it dries.

In reply to Jon Read:

I'm about 6 miles from the Roaches and Hen Cloud at the moment. It's foggy and every surface is dripping. I'd not really expect much in the way of dry rock in the Western Peak this weekend. Very little sun forecast and a North/ North Easterly wind means that I dont think it will dry very well. 

In reply to fredpilkington:

Wharncliffe is my go to choice in Jan on a good day after wet periods. Conditions are as friendly as the most friendly eastern Peak grit crags, like Rivellin, but rocky bases and descents keep shoes cleaner.

In reply to Jon Read:

I stand corrected re hen cloud! Thanks! Shame the likes of man oh man arnt in the rockfax app! V intriguing. Much appreciated with the local knowledge Jon. 
 

Big fan of Millstone McHeath, want to branch out a bit. Found both Millstone and Lawerencefield great this summer. 

In reply to fredpilkington:

 So did you (or anyone else) venture on to the Eastern edges today? Any good?

I'm selfishly asking as I'm wondering if I should get out tomorrow or do awful DIY jobs that need doing....

In reply to LakesWinter:

Can't believe no-one mentioned Delstree (HVS 5a) when listing classic Hen Cloud Cracks.

In reply to ebdon:

Went to Rabbit Warren today, perfect conditions. Most things will be dry tomorrow I reckon

In reply to harold walmsley:

Ah well I didn't mention Delstree (HVS 5a) as I haven't yet done it and only wanted to recommend routes I'd led. But yes, it looks amazing and I am very keen to do it when it's dry and not bird banned.

In reply to Sam Beaton:

A bit of drizzle overnight in parts - maybe best to check where it has rained using the met office radar in the morning to save a wasted journey.

In reply to ebdon:

Ignore me, listen to LakesWinter, it rained overnight in Sheffield so I'm off running instead!

In reply to Sam Beaton:

I wish I'd heeded your advice, I optimistically looked at the radar and thought it would be OK. Currently raining and grim at Stanage 😕.

In reply to ebdon:

Saved me a journey out, ta

In reply to ebdon:

We had a great day at Stanage today! Walking up to the cliff it was flirting with snowing then stopped and we had a good day. Yesterday was perfect at Stanage! Got well and truly dangled on the dangler but unprintable went well. My first Whillans route! Thanks all again for the helpful responses and tips for the future.

In reply to fredpilkington:

Always great to get feedback on how it went glad you had a geat day!

In reply to fredpilkington:

Glad you got out and had a good day -- regardless of venue!

In reply to fredpilkington:

Well done, you are a lot hardier than I am, it was bloody freezing!

In reply to ebdon:

Some friends went to Stanage yesterday. Their summary of the conditions was 'boody awful'.

In reply to ebdon:Squeezing through devils chimney and worming up rigor mortis warmed us up 😂😂 did have thermals on and could have used gloves for belaying tbh