UKC

NEWS: MacLeod sends A Muerte F9a

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 beegsyboy 28 Nov 2007
From Scottish climbs:

Just got a text from Dave Mac saying he made the fifth ascent of A Muerte F8c+/9a on sector Campiqi-Pugi, Siurana. This makes him the first Scot to reach the grade and a member of the elite group world wide. Next on the cards may be an ascent of La Rambla. Details to follow on Daves Blog soon.
banned profile 74 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy: 9a in title and 8c+/9a in the thread,which is it then?loads of people have now climbed 9a havnt they?
 S i'm on & on 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Good work fella I say.

And I wish I was at Piqui Pugui too
 BelleVedere 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beastofackworth:
> (In reply to beegsyboy) loads of people have now climbed 9a havnt they?

Yeah Loads....
 endless winter 28 Nov 2007
 catt 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Superb, nice one Dave.
 beegsyboy 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beastofackworth:

Not sure which grade is confirmed, it's taken from Scottish Climbs.

I think it's News, as although lot's of people have maybe climbed 9a, have many of them also climbed: E11, Font 8b+, Winter X etc
 catt 28 Nov 2007
In reply to endless winter:

That's a report from their visit last year I think?
 endless winter 28 Nov 2007
In reply to catt:

well it shows him working the route
 Andy S 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy: He's already a member of the elite worldwide!!

Man, that statement says so much about how up-it's-own-arse the sport-climbing world really is.

I've got a mind-muddling question/statement:

"If one of the top sport-climbers made an ascent of Dave's E11, would they then be a member of the elite group worldwide?"

Chew that one over...
 Alex1 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Of course its news seeing as the number of brits who've climbed 9a can be counted on the fingers of one hand... Bloody good effort Dave!
In reply to Andy S:

At this risk of this thread descending into mud slinging, instead of lauding a truly amazing achievement, I'm pretty sure beegsybog meant that DM had joined the ranks of the elite group of people who had climbed 9a when he said "This makes him the first Scot to reach the grade and a member of the elite group world wide".

Why are some small minded people so keen to make some sort of factional divide between sport climbers and other climbers? Chew that one over.....
gill79 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy: Well done Dave.
 tony 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Outstanding effort. Bring on La Rambla!
 Ian Patterson 28 Nov 2007
In reply to es:
> (In reply to beastofackworth)
> [...]
>
> Yeah Loads....

Correct me if I'm wrong but UK climbers who have climbed 9a:

Steve McClure (4)
Neil Carson (1)
Rich Simpson (2)
John Gaskins (1)

It looks like a majorly impressive achievment to me - joins the elite of UK sport climbers while also have the best trad ticklist in the country!
 Andy Farnell 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beastofackworth: A Muerte was given 9a by Rich, but Dave Graham said it would be 'old school 8c+' hence the split grade. It's still a very impressive ascent by DM, one of only 6? UK climbers to climb 'proper' routes of that grade AFAIK.

Andy F
 Andy Farnell 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Ian Patterson: You forgot John Dunne

Andy F
 jazzyjackson 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Great send Dave, Hats off !
 niggle 28 Nov 2007
In reply to jazzyjackson:

Dave'll be stoked I would've thought, he was complaing recently that he seemed stuck at 8c+ and was finding it hard to progress.
 Andy S 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Tyler: I'm not, it just appeared that the OP implied that. And I still think it does. But I'm done with this. Seeya.
 Quiddity 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Tyler:

> I'm pretty sure beegsybog meant that DM had joined the ranks of the elite group of people who had climbed 9a when he said "This makes him the first Scot to reach the grade and a member of the elite group world wide".

Agreed, I think Dave M continues to prove he is a true all-rounder, and I think joining another 'elite group' in another discipline from that he is currently known for, most definitely is news.
 JLS 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Call this news! I don't want to be 'impressed' I want to be 'properly impressed', I don't want to hear about A Muerte, I want to hear about La Rambla! Go Dave go!
 Norrie Muir 28 Nov 2007


How many people have climbed at least E9, 9a, M9 and Grade IX?
 Chris F 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:
>
>
> How many people have climbed at least E9, 9a, M9 and Grade IX?

and Font 8b (Not a nine in the number though!)

 abarro81 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:
waddage. the man is a beast..
 Norrie Muir 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Chris F:
> (In reply to Norrie Muir)
> [...]
>
> and Font 8b (Not a nine in the number though!)

I'm not up to speed on Grades, so is there a Font 9? I know there are no 9000m hills.
 Chris F 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir: No, I think 8c (+?) is the current perceived top limit. Although I am sure one of the many people who operate at that level on this site will tell us other wise.
 Enty 28 Nov 2007
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to Ian Patterson) You forgot John Dunne
>
> Andy F

That's what i thought.

The Ent ™

 220bpm 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Can't wait to read Daves blog, thats a serious piece of climbing that is!

Proper 'grats, bon effort
 Dangerous Dave 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beastofackworth:
> (In reply to beegsyboy) ?loads of people have now climbed 9a havnt they?

Yeah loads of people, infact most climbers these days. 9a not even worth getting for up let alone report as news!
Rich Simpson 28 Nov 2007
I was made aware of this news today and consequently, would like to congratulate Dave - it's nice to see this route getting the attention it deserves.

Apparently Dave found a new sequence, which misses out the two original crux moves where the line joined El Membre. It will therefore be interesting to hear whether or not this changes the route's overall difficulty. It will be more interesting to hear exactly how he missed these two moves out? As far as I’m aware both Edu Marin and Dave Graham were forced to climb the line how I did, so I’m not entirely sure what Dave did differently.

Dave: Fill me in when you get chance.
 Mark Lloyd 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Rich Simpson:
Check out the blog spot link earlier in the thread.

Dave MacLeod figured out a direct sequence on A Muerte f9a, avoiding the big reach left followed by big reach back right - instead a heinious looking 2 finger match, but it worked. Good progress and looking very possible.
 Si dH 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Rich Simpson:
Rich,
In the lin given above (a report from earlier in the year) it mentions that Dave used a 'heinous two-finger match' and theres a photo whihc looks like it might be of that move? - have a look.
Cheers
Simon
 Si dH 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Si dH:
oops, I was beaten to it...
 Niall Grimes 28 Nov 2007
Good effort Dave. It must be very hard to go abroad for shortish visits and choose and climb a very hard sport climb.
Anonymous 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy: rad send Dave!
In reply to niggle: Oh to get stuck at 8c+ instead of 5+!
 AlisonS 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

The camera work is very good in that video. You can't see either camera from the other one, yet the shots are nicely composed and well choreographed. I'm impressed.

Oh, well done Dave too. Would be interesting to hear the continuation of the "how did he do it" debate to find out if it's to do with variations in physique; which no-one can do anything about, or variations in technique which everyone can learn from.
banned profile 74 28 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:
> (In reply to beastofackworth)
>
> Not sure which grade is confirmed, it's taken from Scottish Climbs.
>
> I think it's News, as although lot's of people have maybe climbed 9a, have many of them also climbed: E11, Font 8b+, Winter X etc

wasnt having a go at the achievement just wondered what the actual grade was and how common 9a climbers are these days
 Peter Walker 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> this other dave(?) makes it look almost straightforward
> youtube.com/watch?v=BkfVRLSD57k&

Is that the same route??
In reply to beegsyboy:

He's damned good, isn't he?

Makes you wonder; if he can do this so much quicker than he could even work the moves on Rhapsody, is the latter really 'only' 8c+ or whatever he gave it?

jcm

In reply to Peter Walker:

> Is that the same route??

No!
 Peter Walker 28 Nov 2007
In reply to Tyler: I suspected as much
 Michael Ryan 29 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Cheers.

Nov 29: Dave MacLeod - A Muerte F9a

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
(marktomlinson) 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Ian Patterson:
> (In reply to es)
> [...]
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong but UK climbers who have climbed 9a:
>
> Steve McClure (4)
> Neil Carson (1)
> Rich Simpson (2)
> John Gaskins (1)
>
> It looks like a majorly impressive achievment to me - joins the elite of UK sport climbers while also have the best trad ticklist in the country!

Think McClure done more if you count the link-ups, and pretty sure Rich did another 9a in Jura?

 Henry Iddon 29 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

What'll happen when D Mac joins all the dots and does some stuff in the 'greater ranges'. Could be amazing.
(marktomlinson) 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Henry Iddon: He's made it clear that he's not psyched for that sort of thing (ie. sitting in a tent getting weak).
 JLS 29 Nov 2007
In reply to (marktomlinson):

>"He's made it clear that he's not psyched for that sort of thing"

He'll be 40 one day, perhaps it will appeal more then.
In reply to beegsyboy:

Just reading Mick's report ".....a very unique club, perhaps with only one member...."

!.

jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Unique.
1.Being the only one of its kind: the unique existing example of Donne's handwriting.

2.Without an equal or equivalent; unparalleled.

There's no such thing as being veryunique, it's either unique, or not. Kind of binary!
 Andy S 29 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy: But really though - what HAS he done on grit? I'm just curious that's all!
 hutchm 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
> Kind of binary!

?
 Andy S 29 Nov 2007
In reply to hutchm: can only be one or the other.

So...

What HAS he done on grit?
 Michael Ryan 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Andy S:
> (In reply to hutchm) can only be one or the other.
>
> So...
>
> What HAS he done on grit?

Read the news report and look at his website.

"As has been mentioned on the UKClimbing.com thread this ascent puts MacLeod in a very unique club, perhaps with only one member. MacLeod has climbed trad headpoint E11 (an 8c+ R/X rated route), Sport 9a, established the world’s first grade XI winter route, done M12 tooling, soloed Fr 8b and bouldered Font 8b........and yes, he has done lots on grit!"

 Andy S 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: I read the report that's why I asked the question, but I just haven't got the time/too lazy right now to look it up. I'm hoping someone will do the work for me
 Michael Ryan 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Alasdair Fulton:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)

> There's no such thing as being veryunique, it's either unique, or not. Kind of binary!

The very puts emphasis on the unique....perhaps where none is needed but it adds dramatic effect.

 Michael Ryan 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Andy S:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) I read the report that's why I asked the question, but I just haven't got the time/too lazy right now to look it up. I'm hoping someone will do the work for me

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=270846

 Norrie Muir 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

and yes, he has done lots on grit

Yes, and Dave has to climb elsewhere to get real big numbers, so the grit is really an irrelevance to big numbers.
In reply to Andy S:
> (In reply to hutchm) can only be one or the other.
>
> So...
>
> What HAS he done on grit?

Why does this question always have to be wheeled out?
Its TIRESOME

Blind Vision (E10 7a/b, IIRC) among a few other hard grit routes.

Is that ok for you? Or do you need him to do something harder, or some more?






 hutchm 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to Alasdair Fulton)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> The very puts emphasis on the unique....perhaps where none is needed but it adds dramatic effect.

You tell him! Next time go for 'very very super unique' for extra literary punch!
Anonymous 29 Nov 2007
In reply to hutchm: or just extremely unique
 co1ps 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Andy S: The E grade is irrelevant, what's the tech grade?
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

> The very puts emphasis on the unique....perhaps where none is needed but it adds dramatic effect.

Was the "perhaps with only one member...." to add extra, extra dramatic effect?

 GrahamD 29 Nov 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Good to see Dave pushing his limits on safe ground for a change. Pushing the big E numbers indefinately is a risky game (well, the way he seems to play it it is).
 John2 29 Nov 2007
In reply to GrahamD: 'Pushing the big E numbers indefinately is a risky game (well, the way he seems to play it it is)'

If you read his blog description of his reasons for not attempting to redpoint the Indian Face you might change your mind on that point.
 smallerrich 29 Nov 2007
In reply to Barry Chocolate: Go and watch the film "Commited", its got Dave doing quite a bit on the grit and hes bloody good on it to,
Good effort Dave!
In reply to Tyler:

Is it possible to have Hard Very Unique?
Dave MacLeod must surely be one of the best (if not the best) multidisiplinary climbers in the world!
 nz Cragrat 29 Nov 2007
In reply to JM:

Who cares about Grit anyway ?
 AJM 29 Nov 2007
In reply to JM:

One of, maybe.

I imagine Huber at least has more claim to being the best I would have thought - I dont know much about his winter experience but his big-wall and big mountain experience trumps McLeods I would have thought and his sport and trad are probably at a similar level....?

AJM
 GrahamD 30 Nov 2007
In reply to John2:

Indian Face aside, taking repeated falls on routes like Rhapsody onto RPs is cutting your margins pretty thin ...
 Dave MacLeod 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Rich Simpson:
> I was made aware of this news today and consequently, would like to congratulate Dave - it's nice to see this route getting the attention it deserves.
>
> Apparently Dave found a new sequence, which misses out the two original crux moves where the line joined El Membre. It will therefore be interesting to hear whether or not this changes the route's overall difficulty. It will be more interesting to hear exactly how he missed these two moves out? As far as I’m aware both Edu Marin and Dave Graham were forced to climb the line how I did, so I’m not entirely sure what Dave did differently.
>
> Dave: Fill me in when you get chance.

Just back from the trip so got some pics and words about it up on my site now. Last time I tried climbing more direct than you, going straight up rather than reaching left, with a horrible match (the pic on the UKC news story). But in the end it cut my fingers up and was too hard so I ended up doing it your way (pics on my blog). Lovely route.
 JLS 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Dave MacLeod:

>"On my last day, after Patxi had dispatched Le Rambla 9a+ 3rd go (my head shakes in disbelief), I did the moves on La Rambla. Hmmmm…"

http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2007/11/every-day-little-more-muerte.html

Care to elaborate on "Hmmm..."? Just curious how much of a route like that you can link together on your first session but with 9a fitness. Is it still a metre by metre struggle or can you string longer sections. Can you tell from what you've done on it, the number of sections that will provide you with real problems to overcome or is more of a stamina issue? I seem to remember it being quite long.

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