UKC

Route to the easiest 7a in Dorset?

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 sabostar 26 Oct 2020

After sending my first 6a outdoors this summer, I still have a long way to go, but I've set myself a target of climbing a 7a at some point in the future.

I'd love any recommendations for a 6b, 6c and the easiest 7a in Dorset. 

Obviously, a certain route can be easy for one climber, and impossible for another depending your strengths, but any perspectives would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

 dunnyg 26 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

If you pick the easiest it will probably get downgraded, so make sure you do a harder one after...

 HakanT 26 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

The Accelerator (7a) has a reputation for being quite soft (it is) but has survived as a 7a in the last two guidebooks.

cp123 26 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

I thought Medusa Falls (7a) and To Wish the Impossible (7a) were very straightforward for 7a, with the one on the right being a tad easier. Polished at the start, but that quickly went away.

Both were technical, requiring good footwork, but both were just the right side of vertical except for the middle section of one and the finish of the other.

1
 Kevster 26 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

Blacknor central will see you good. Quality routes and stamina over difficulty for the most part. 
Just make sure you take a 60m rope. 

 Joffy 26 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

There's an old thread on here (a Google will find it!) With some "easy" 7as. But it really does come down to style!

Don't be disheartened if you try a new grade and it feels obscene, just have the confidence to give hard climbs a punt.

 steve taylor 27 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

Climb a load of 6c+ routes - some of them are bound to be upgraded in the next guide.

 Cake 27 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

I had a really good time working on

Red Rain (6c+)

, a 6c+ at Winspit. Hard moves, while pumped, so good training for that extra grade harder.

I doubt it would be upgraded though.

 Alkis 27 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

Last Rose of Summer (7a) is pretty soft. I'd be surprised if the already mentioned The Accelerator (7a) remains 7a for long.

Post edited at 10:23
 steve taylor 27 Oct 2020
In reply to sabostar:

I've just checked what I found OK back in the day...

Jurassic Shift (7a)

Wolfgang Forever (7a)

Bilboes (7a)

Last Rose of Summer (7a)

I could have been having a good day on any of these, but they were all OK for the grade.

If you like jugs/swimming:

Horny Lil' Devil (7a)


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