UKC

2007 - How was your year?

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 climbingpixie 18 Dec 2007
Looking back on last year's thread - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=219362 - how did your aims for 2007 shape up? Did you tick the routes you wanted to tick, visit the crags you wanted to and have as much fun as you'd hoped? Or did your aims change dramatically from the ones stated this time last year?

Mine's been better and worse than I'd planned. I haven't led f7a indoors, let alone onsighted one outdoors, and WRT trad I managed a few E2s and E3s but only soft ones that suited me so I still have a lot to work on. But I've developed as a climber, visited some fantastic places and gained more experience - thanks to the great and supportive climbing partners I've had this year <end cheesy bit>

So how was yours?

P.S. Yes pedants, I know there's still a few weeks left but for many of us the hardest part of the festive period will be the sit start off the sofa to get more mince pies
Sam L 18 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie: It seems the only thing I achieved from my wishlist was to lose weight. I actually lost more than intended, so that's OK, in the other respects I did pretty badly, but that's OK, next year will be better! I have still had a good climbing year really, even if I didn't onsight E3 or whatever-I've been to some cool places, made some new friends, spent some good time with existing ones, put up a couple of new routes and had a lot of fun. E3 can wait...
Sam
 SecretSquirrel 19 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie:
Up & down really, achieved most of the goals I set but had periods where i was really fed up or not able to climb much.
Met some good new people but other old friends haven't been around so much.And as usual, the winter closed in just when I was feeling really confident and ready to push it a bit more on some harder routes.

Had some great climbing experiences though (including that last Wales weekend) and I'm looking forward to what I think i'm ready for next year.
 Nevis-the-cat 19 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie:

shit, next question.
 Alex Roddie 19 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie:
Has my first alpine season, and it was a cracker, so pretty good I'd say!
skarabrae 19 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie: had a good year, really good start in spring, managed to lead a few vs, earlier than i thought, then a wet summer, not much done, but now its winter!!!! for me, climbing season starts now, prefer winter, in fact, spend summer dreaming of winter!who cares if i only get 1 route done,just beimg there up in the hills in winter, its worth the wait.( for me ,anyway.)
 Reaver2k 19 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie:

I had totally forgotten I had posted in that thread but there you go! Glad I did!

x by - Reaver2k ? on - 03 Jan 2007
In reply to Keith Roughley:

Get up to consisdently leading VS and have possibly led 1 HVS.
Become a good jammer and get the hang of slabs at atleast HS possibly VS (I don't like big runouts and see no reason why I should!)

Indoors (not very likely as i dont go much) consisdently onsight lead 6a+ (can almost do now) and consisdently onsight 6b TR.


I am pretty consistent at VS, have led 26 of them, with one being dogged on (5a moves arn't up to scratch yet!). Wouldn't call myself a VS leader but I suppose those arn't bad odds.

Have led one or two HVS's, the first being Scoop Face at Castle Naze which I absolutely loved! The second slightly dubious one is Great Buttress at Wharncliffe which is only HVS without side-runner (Which I avoided but didn't know about at the time) and was too scared to do it again! I hate runouts!

Getting OKish at jamming but wouldn't call myself good, Avril being my biggest achievement (HS, Stanage End), and no luck on the slabs, I did Kelly's Eliminate (HS, Stanage End) which was very run out and managed to overcome my head issues, especially as I did it in the rain! Fun in Font certainly helped with runout head issues but still needs fixing! Need to keep working at it.

Indoors has gone well despite hardly ever going! Can lead 6a+ consistently, onsight. And at my local (Huddersfield) have been onsighting 6b+'s on toprope and even one 6c!

Over-all better than I had really expected! Getting out tomorrow to see how I manage with HS's in the cold, seemed alright at the UKC meet on Sunday!

I presume the 2008 goals won't be up until New Years, if I forget to post please email me!
 Blue Straggler 19 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie:

Nondescript.
 Jenn 19 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie: (Edited...)

Oh fun - just what I'm in the mood for....

First, I just want to get out as much as possible and one of my main goals is to try a few new areas (Pembroke, Swanage, and Lakes, to name a few).

Got out just about as much as possible whilst still living in London. Tried lots of new bouldering places such as Bishop, Porth Ysgo and the Churnet.

After that, unfortunately 2 years after my accident, I am still trying to sort out my head. Hopefully I will make more progress in that area.

Will fall with reckless abandon on bolts indoors and out. Lost interest in trad.

As for trad, I have a 'hit list' of routes, rather than a specific grade. Some of which are... Western Slabs, Dinas Mot; Phantom Rib, Clogwyn y Grochan; anything on Cloggy; DWH and so forth.

Nada, zip, zilch, etc. Did a random route on Cloggy though.

For sport, is there anything other than the grade and for me that is sadly, F6a+.

Don't really like sport climbing in the UK, but did manage a (very soft) F6a.

I will do a DWS!!! Anyone will do

DWS require warm weather - which we had none of this year.

As for bouldering, hmm, am actually a bit sick of it for the moment. I am looking forward to Font, but I think my challenges lie elsewhere this year. However 6b+ would be nice .

Oh how people change. I got a few V5's and a (very soft) V6.

Very strange year. I set out with lots of trad goals in mind and ended up giving up on trad in the early Spring. It really lost it's fun for me. My bouldering however came on a lot. It was probably the most positive thing for me this year, though looking back at it now, I feel like I haven't accomplished that much at all. On a slightly more depressing note, I lost a lot of time recently to various illnesses and travelling just as I was starting to feel strong again

Who knows what this year will hold. I have a lot in mind, but I seem to be a lot more prone to injury / illnesses recently.
 TRNovice 19 Dec 2007
In reply to climbingpixie:

I have to point out (yes I read the OP, but I am a founder member of pedants anonymous and am bound by oath) that I hope to have at least one (and maybe two) more climbing weekends this year - though with how weak I am right now I doubt I'll be hitting too many highs: -

Trad
====


  • E1 onsight while I'm still "only" 40 (it was E1 onsight before I'm 40 last year :-o) - most likely on Slate I guess

    Hmm missed out on goal by 24 days - got the E1 though - since then have been falling off E2s :-o

  • More single-pitch HVS's - (some multipitches with one or two HVS pitches would be good as well)

    Hmm #2 - one more HVS - have only done 20 trad routes this year so far

  • Sustained Multipitch VS - Kirkus' route on Craig yr Ogof would do nicely, or Western Slabs

    I think leading all of Adam Rib on Cwm Du counts (at least the way I climbed it) - also climbed on Cloggy for the first time - walked in to Craig yr Ogof twice, fog-bound once and teaming with people the second - I blame Simon Panton

  • Do something in The Lakes for a change

    Utter failure here


    Sport
    =====


  • Stop having to rest on the rope on F6a's - grr

    Flashed F6a (twice)

  • A few F6a+'s - regardless of style

    Flashed F6a+ as well - but otherwise not a lot of sport climbing in the year


    Bouldering
    ==========


  • Preserve my fingertips at Font

    Never made it to Font in 2007, went to Bishop instead during the normal Brit invasion of the forest at Easter and made it back for a second trip in October

  • A worked Font 6a and some flashes of harder Font 5's would be nice

    Didn't flash a lot (top grade of a flash was either V2 or V3 I think), but sending V4 in Bishop (aka V5) and V5 in N Wales meant I otherwise rather exceeded my expectations


    Indoors
    =======


    [Hey it's a free world :-p]

  • Get some more F6b's done

    Pretty much gave up on leading indoors as it seemed to have less and less relevance to outdoors

  • Start working some F6c's

    ditto


    DWS
    ===


  • Take some photos of Jenn

  • Learn to swim better

    Does watching King Lines count for anything?


    Overall a good year, started off with some serious trad mileage, but then became focussed more on bouldering. Saying that would not have reached my E1 milestone without the bouldering-induced strength. Managed to beat my best Sport flash three times in one day, which can't be bad, but I think that this was one of only four days sport climbing in the year.
  •  sutty 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Just read your profile and know where you went wrong. Climbing at Idwal is bad for morale, the pass may be steeper but has lots of lovely holds and runners on it at a harder grade. Idwal is for when you want to feel bold.
     TRNovice 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to sutty:

    Thanks Sutty, but didn't climb in Idwal in 2007
     sutty 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Best thing for getting more done is to be a climbing whore, get out with lots of different people along with those you normally like climbing with. More fun as well, and you meet more people of both sexes, result, unless you have a partner.
    In reply to Blue Straggler:
    > (In reply to climbingpixie)
    >
    > Nondescript.

    Descript ... or not descript yet ... may one day write about it, probably in a very abstract way.

    Truly a trip to hell and back, or to the gates of hell (actually I went through them far too far).

    All is 'well' now - after a very dangerous pursuit of a story in London - though the scars are huge. Made any mountain epic I've ever experienced seem relatively trivial, because here I came up against sheer evil, I believe. Something I've never experienced before in my whole life (and I'm now 58 years old). Probably foolish even to be mentioning it now, in the depths of the night.
     Flicka 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    My post on that thread was as follows:

    "I'd like to lead a VS without it being a completely screaming nightmare.
    Aiming to get fairly solid at HS and dabble with VS. (Currently reasonable at S and dabbling with the very occasional HS)

    But mainly, I just want to get out climbing as much as I can, have lots of fun and do as many mountain routes as possible!"

    I have led several VS's that haven't been screaming nightmares Am fairly solid at HS and dabbling in VS. Have been getting out climbing as much as possible, adapting to conditions. Haven't done as many mountain routes as I would have liked due to the weather and dramas with Scotland trips partners. BUT those I have done have been very memorable for various reasons. Sou'wester Slabs, my first Scottish mountain route... Bowfell Buttress, became symbolic of overcoming an eating disorder...Corvus, my first route as the more experienced person in the partnership. Just to name a few. Have climbed mountains in the Lakes, Snowdonia and Scotland.

    I don't think I can complain!!!!
    Now to work on that sit start off the sofa...
     nikinko 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I've led my first few Severes, lost 1.5 stone and got lots of experience, including discovering that aslthough I don't climb hard I'm beginning to be the one that people come to when they need a ropework problem sorted out or solved. (It threw me the first time when I realised there was no-one more experienced than me there to do it!).

    oh yeah, and learned to place gear properly!

    2008: lose more wieght (another 1.5 stone and I'll be nearly healthy!), firm up at Severe, and start on HS, maybe some selected VS.

    N
    Chris Tan Ver. L - Lost in Time 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Ups and downs but seem to have finished on an up.

    Started off with on-sighting 6b+ then lost it all when a chest infection set in!

    Lots of Moorland grit guide book work took me to the far edges of sanity with lot of fun people, loads of history and a few new routes in the bag as a bonus.

    Fate has once again thrown me a round dice, so I have given up full time work, at least until sometime next year.

    I will miss the esoteric mixed-route season as I'm off to visit family and friends in the new year, with the usual effects of being fattened up And hopefully, back on the rock in April.

    See you 'round!
     CJD 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    thank god I kept my goals for this year vague... I've done some bits that I'm pleased with (a sport 6a when earlier that week I was struggling with 3+s, my first winter lead ) but on the whole it's been a lousy one, through injury (falling down a crag - ouch!), head-mess and general lousiness. Roll on next year and some more specific goal setting (and more enthusiasm!)
     nz Cragrat 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to CJD:

    come on you got a relationship rolling
     TN 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I am not sure I set myself any specific aims, just to do stuff I enjoyed doing.

    My climbing has not improved, but despite various lay-offs it has not got any worse either, which is nice.

    I have started mountain biking in the past few months and, despite being bulkier than I have been for a long time (oooops) I am a heck of a lot fitter and that's nice too.

    I had a couple of lovely trips to France - the climbing/sightseeing came secondary to spending time with people I like.

    It's not been a bad year.
     CJD 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to nz Cragrat:

    oh yeah, outside of climbing it's been a good year - if you'd said to me at the start of the year that i'd be seeing someone who lived so far away I'd have laughed, but I haven't driven him mad yet so hurrah for that!

     1234None 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I only started climbing in May 2006, and didn't really set any specific goals for this year.

    However, I've had a great year and feel like I'vce progressed alot. Major highlights for me were:

    Trad

    -Grey Panther on Kilt Rock, Skye - for sheer enjoyoment
    -The Brush Off, Rivelin - as my hardest route
    -Suspense, The Rasp and Long John's Slab - all lines that I had picked out as ones I simply HAD to climb


    Boudering

    - Deliverance at the Plantation and some scary slab thing at Robin Hoods Stride

    Indoors/Sport

    - First F7a onsight and a bunch of 6cs

    DWS

    - Lots of fun in the sun at Diablo with Nicki, followed by chilled out beers on the beack.

     stonewall 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

    its morning now, some enlightenment please....
     fimm 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    My post on that thread was
    Lead a trad route (and hopefully some more sport too).

    Well, I've led <counts on fingers> 8 trad routes! Hooray!!
    And one sport route (but that was a 5 and I'd only ever lead a 3+ before then, so that was good too.)
     CJD 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

    no idea what's gone on, but you've alluded to this a few times without explaining what's happened, and it's starting to seem a bit peculiar - have you considered investigating counselling?
     Adders 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie: very good year considering the non summer we had...

    climbing wise -
    jan - may = font trip was ace (best yet) and was just doing my usual grade stuff there and at home- best was 6b+ bouldering. didnt get around to any outdoors sports climbing.

    may - nov = no climbing. first lay off in 5 years but after only a few weeks indoors i feel quite strong again. still not touched grit though - that'll be 2008 now.

    2007 has been the year of the mtb for me. i've found a new passion.
    loads of really good trips to look back on and some great new friends. really good year. (plus got engaged and bought a house!)

    i'm looking forward to xmas and new year in wales biking & scrambling.
    and looking forward to 2008 even more for the annual font trip and loads more biking
     PeterM 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Shite!
     Al Evans 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie: Very poor climbing year, virtually none, but a good getting back in one piece year. Finished with a couple of long enjoyable VS (4+) leads that felt easy this last week. 2008 has to be consolidation and getting back to climbing properly year.
     Al Evans 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    So how was yours?


    Very poor climbing year, virtually none, but a good getting back in one piece year. Finished with a couple of long enjoyable VS (4+) leads that felt easy this last week. 2008 has to be consolidation and a getting back to climbing properly year.
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to Reaver2k:

    > I presume the 2008 goals won't be up until New Years, if I forget to post please email me!

    The 2008 thread's up now so go post on it! It was what reminded me about this one.

    Interestingly, my main impression from rereading last year's thread is that I don't feel like the same Pixie who wrote those words a year ago. Looking back, my aims were so narrow and grade-orientated, I guess it's taken more experience in climbing to realise what stuff I like doing and get most out of. Probably still seems narrow to many people as I've discovered what I like more than anything is hard/scary (to me) single-pitch trad in beautiful places!

    Fingers crossed that next year we have a drier summer!
     CJD 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    > (In reply to Reaver2k)
    >
    > [...]
    >
    >
    > Fingers crossed that next year we have a drier summer!

    amen to that! The big thing I've learned is that i need to be more specific about my goals in order to achieve them.
     gribble 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    Odd year. 2006 ended when I was climbing in China and found out my girlfiend was pregnant. So I have won a beautiful daughter. Strangely, not so much time availabe this year for routes, so I've done a lot of soloing instead! Hoping to get away for climbing weekends next year... and hopefully with small family.
     Chris F 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie: climbingwise, not a great year due to crap weather. Got less routes done, but generally higher grades, probably due to spending more time at the wall. Had a great US trip though, got to some great places and did great routes. On the plus side have improved a lot surfing and mountain biking though.


     CJD 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    do you mnd if I start a 'non-climbing' how was your year in Down The Pub?
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to CJD:

    Be my guest. I don't know if I'll have anything to post on it though so I might just hang around here!
     CJD 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    cool! I thought I'd ask as it would have seemed a bit rude otherwise.

    can I just say, in passing, congratulations on an utterly storming year - you've been something of an inspiration! (well you will be *next* year )
     Flicka@work 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    > (In reply to Reaver2k)
    >
    > [...]
    >
    > The 2008 thread's up now so go post on it! It was what reminded me about this one.
    >
    > Interestingly, my main impression from rereading last year's thread is that I don't feel like the same Pixie who wrote those words a year ago. Looking back, my aims were so narrow and grade-orientated, I guess it's taken more experience in climbing to realise what stuff I like doing and get most out of. Probably still seems narrow to many people as I've discovered what I like more than anything is hard/scary (to me) single-pitch trad in beautiful places!
    >
    > Fingers crossed that next year we have a drier summer!


    Know what you mean! I have fulfilled last years aims give or take a bit, but they were v narrow and not many of them! 2008 will be the year of branching out! Trips to exciting places already planned and more to be planned!
    Derbyshire Ben 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to Chris F:

    Mine has been similar; started out well early on in the nice spring we had with good bouldering sessions and a few Extremes on the grit then it all went a bit pear shaped with work coinciding with the limited nice weather we had.

    Other than that I had great surf trips to Barbados and Ireland and got into road biking.

    Next year is going to be a funny one with two big surf trips organised so I think I might just focus on bouldering at least until the Summer.
    chembhoysh 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie: I don't really remember what stage in my climbing I was at beginning of 07 - pretty sure it was a case of carry on climbing starred VS regularly and get on some HVS's. Winter - had seconded a dozen or so routes, aimed to lead something reasonably challenging.

    Got to go to Lundy Island and climbed routes in a week with a combined number of stars that wouldn't fit on two hands, with some amazing VS's. Climbed 10-15 HVS's and this progression culminated in the thread a posted last Friday - explaining that I was itching to get onto an E1... Saturday I went to Auchinstarry and bagged my first E1 - and its still 2007!!!

    Terms of Winter did lead a III 4 last Feb. and on Sunday just gone led Hidden Chimney in Coire an t'Sneachda.

    Im well psyched at the minute (as you can tell by the rambling) - but I am somewhat dissapointed that I didnt push myself until now (E1 in the freezing cold and dampness... surely I coulda done that in friendlier conditions months ago!!!?)


    Motto for 2008 - push the boat out man!
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to CJD:

    Nah, there've been a few people alluding to exciting non-climbing things happening to them this year and I'd like to read more so another thread is a great idea. Besides it stops people filling my proper 'ardcore climbing thread up with kittens and fluff

    Cheers btw, you've just made me blush scarlet!
     CJD 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    lol, well you deserve it. I had a really good chat with Fiend on Sunday, about climbing and motivation and stuff, and I'm determined that 2008 is gonna be boom or bust for me.
     Dave Wearing 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Had a cracking year, climbed more and better than I have for years. All down to good old ukc too. Met loads of new partners and got introduced to a good club too.

    Still life in the old dog yet!
     Caralynh 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Mine were:A few, all relatively realistic:

    Get solid at HVS so I can do a few wishlist routes, and lead E1
    Visit Lundy
    Summit Almanzor this time (sometime over the next 3-5 weeks hopefully)
    Spend time in the Alps.
    Finish the Welsh Classic Rock routes

    Errrm none of those done LOL!!!
    Have led a few HVSs but the weather and lack of money has meant I haven't got out as much as I wanted to
    Didn't visit Lundy, but booked on a trip in May
    Didn't summit Almanzor - had a major epic instead
    Haven't been to the Alps - no money
    Still have 4 Welsh Classic Rock routes to do.

    Hmmmmmm really not very productive. I have, however, visited some new places (the Dewerstone was probably this year's key "find") and made some new partners, so not all is lost!
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to CJD:

    Aye, he's a good 'un to chat to about stuff like that. I really hope your head and your mojo find themselves in the right place at the right time next year and you achieve your aims
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Almost non existent from a climbing standpoint. Started with a shoulder rotator problem, then the monsoon arrived. My main climbing partner (my daughter) spends most of the year in Canada, so apart from one wet ascent of Corvus (is there any other way?) climbing's been a bit of a non event.

    The year has certainly not been uneventful, springtime in Florida visiting reatives we'd not seen for 30 years, not a single theme park but did get to the Kennedy Space Center, a few days lazing on Key Largo, and a trip to the Ray Charles memorial in Greenville.

    Taking the main holiday early has left us skint, and consequently made the rest of the year feel quite long. I'm looking forward to a decent break over the Xmas / New Year period.

    Then there's been some BIG family birthdays and surprise parties to organise, a couple of funerals to attend, and a lot of work, generally conspiring with the monsoon to stop me getting much done outdoors either on the hill, on the bike, or on the allotment.

    Hey Ho

    Roll on 2008

     smolders 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Not a great year outside climbing (but better than the annus horribilis that was 2006)

    But climbing wise it's been great, despite the crap summer. Started climbing on real rock in April. Learnt lots of new stuff (leading, multi-pitch, sport), lots of new places (Peak, Moelwyns, Portland). Getting better all the time (but it's early days...). Seem to be in a good place psychologically. Looking forward to 2008. Hoping to get to the Alps.
     Eagle River 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I got back into climbing after a 5 year lay-off and have been pleased with what I've managed this year and have become hugely obsessed again so next year will hopefully be a year of further progress.

    But so far I've gone from having beginner-like strength last christmas when I started again to:

    Sport 6c
    Trad E1 (including my first big trad fall)
    Bouldering V7
    indoor happily onsighting 6c.

    Now all I have to do is get those sport and indoor grades up to 7a and get a few more V7s under my belt. If by the end of next year I've onsighted a 7a sport route, done a few V8 boulder problems and led E2 I'll be a happy chappy.
     catt 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    > Looking back on last year's thread - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=219362 - how did your aims for 2007 shape up?

    Looing back at that I achieved none of my goals! But I did get a day away from the Fr7b target on holiday, and got within a grade of my bouldering target. So that was still major improvment.

    The year started very well with an excellent south coast bouldering trip in Feb where I picked up my first V7 and a couple of V6's, but from then basically a piss poor year climbing wise from being injured for an easter trip to Font to not hardly climbing all summer to being defeated by my head on things I really wanted to do. Still got some top trips in though and a lot of good laughs. Probably the highlight was climbing on Skye and scrambling around Arran in late May.
     Richard Horn 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Not a bad year for me personally, although perhaps it has been a bit too much sport-centric:

    Sport climbing: Ticked my first 7b+ in May which was a surprise as I wasnt convinced I could climb that hard, have done a further 3 since, including one first r/p in Sardinia (although that was a softie). Onsighted my first portland 7a (not first 7a o/s but I consider portland quite a hard place for onsighting), then 7a+ onsight at portland a few weeks ago. Looking forward to 2008, have 7c in my sights!

    Trad: a bit neglected, only did a few days. Did my first E2 onsight (whilst hideously hung over), although I am still left with the impression I could acheive more if I spent more time trad climbing and gained more confidence.

    Bouldering: easter trip to Font was only outdoor bouldering, did nothing particularly hard. Concluded I cant get excited about bouldering although I do like a trip to Font as I like the technicalilty of the climbing.

    DWS: not a great year, despite lovely trip to Mallorca. I realise I need plenty of DWS time to get used to the height. DWS festival was a highlight, although generally weather too crap!
     Chris the Tall 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    Not bad, despite the abscence of the british summer

    Highlights - 2 weeks on Kalymnos and 1 week on Sardinia with Liz, lots of climbing, lots of beaches and no trips to the hospital
    Great days on Pavey Ark in April, High Tor in September and a trip to Avon and North Pembroke in November, but otherwise it's been far too much single pitch peak grit yet again.

    Still, pleased to finally slay the demons of Kayak, and still be on-sighting E2 and flashing 6c at the ripe old age of 40.

    Lowpoint - Falling off a boulder in Langdale after watching it rain for a week and so miss out on the one sunny day in July

    Next year - Kalymnos, Dolomites and more limestone in the UK. Any maybe Gogarth, Cromlech, Cloggy, Pembroke, Wye Valley and the Lakes
     Mark Stevenson 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie: Good. In fact I'd go as far as to say very good

    My New Year's resolution is to get out of my comfort zome at every opportunity!
    Partially acheived...

    The Good:
    Climb everything in Hard Rock. In 35 days and 4 hours! Dspite the wettest Summer ever
    Complete my MIA training. Done

    The not so Good:
    Redpoint f7c. I failed but I did get my first ever 7b+ so I'm content.
    Win the Army Indoor Climbing Championships. I came 3rd, and 3rd in the Inter-Services but I salvaged some pride by being top Brit and onsighting 7b at the International Military Climbing Championships in Chamonix in November.

    The Bad
    Onsight E5 (on 3 rock types). Again I failed, but I did at least try leading E5.
    Boulder font 7a. Didn't do any bouldering....
    Lead multiple Scottish grade VIs. No Scottish winter...
    Climb a major Alpine North Face. Didn't een get to the Alps...

    I was also proved correct with my final comments I'm slightly dubious that there are enough days in the year for all that

    The ones I've not acheived in 2007 I'll just carry over for 2008
     Andy Hobson 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I don't think I had any aims as such - just to get out more than in previous years. Think it went pretty well...

    January - February: Did very little. Was living in Cham so apart from the occasional ice route and the Chere Couloir spent most of my time skiing, working or propping up the bar.

    March - April: Much better. Did the Supercouloir in March, still the hardest thing I've done. The epic descent of the Vallee Blanche in the dark will stay with me for a long time! The other highlight round then was the Modica-Noury on Tacul, a great day out and a fabulous ice climb.

    May - June: Came home in May so had a few weeks of inactivity sorting things out. Did some easy routes to get a feel for rock again then started up properly in June; had a good week where we got Saxon, Grand Alliance and Side Walk done amongst others. Then the rains started...

    July - August: Rain! Still managed to get out in the evenings after work and get the odd route done. Highlights were Astra, Darklands, Columbia and Rat Race, generally snatched in the rare dry spells. Low point - throwing a wobbler on Mirrormere at Hodge Close (it was wet, ok!) and almost being rescued by Rob Matheson.

    September - October: Loads better, some truly memorable days out. Capital Punishment, Shrike and four classics on Bowfell (Fastburn, Air on a Bowstring, Woolly Jumper and Sword of Damocles) all in three days stand out, along with Aphasia, Nimrod and Equus (the latter as part of an attempt to climb all the 3* E2s in Langdale in a day) as well as a great week around my birthday getting various good routes done all over the Lakes with Fiend. Once I was back in Leeds I had some good and successful bouldering sessions and a enjoyable Gogarth weekend when we did The Moon, Wendigo and NW Passage.

    November - December: Had a pretty unsuccessful trip to the Alps end October which was disappointing (not fit enough) but came back to great grit conditions and sorted out lots of unfinished business from years ago. Scottish winter got off to a good start too. Recently I've injured my finger so now taking it easy(ish) and concentrating on uni work. Bring on 2008!
     Owen W-G 19 Dec 2007
    Achieved just 2 of the 5 route wishlist I set for 2007. They were goodies - The Strand and Coronation Street - but L Wall, The Rasp & Freeborn Man will have to wait. I didn't make it to far Cornwall or the Lakes this year either. Sacre Couer wasn't on my wishlist but it was one of best ticks of the year. Main highlight was getting to lots of new crags for the first time - 2 trips to Devon standing out. How good a crag is Lower Sharpnose?!
     kathrync 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I don't think I really had any aspirations last year other than just to climb. I had moved from the SE to Scotland and knew no-one so just meeting people and getting out was my aim.

    But it has been a good year.

    Winter was pretty crap...not much climbing, but I did do lots of wintery walking/scrambling which was good...it was the first time I've lived near enough to the mountains to get out regularly so I was really enjoying getting out even if not to climb. And it improved my general fitness hugely.

    I've had a great year working on multipitch VSs of Scotland. Highlights include South Ridge Direct on Arran and Spartan Slab on Glen Etive, but there was loads of fun to be had all over the place. I also completed the traverse of the Cuillen Ridge on Skye and took my Dad scrambling in the Lakes which was great fun.

    In May/June I was very ill and didn't get out. I lost a lot of fitness (and over a stone in weight which for those who know me is a LOT for me!). In July I was in the alps. I struggled a lot with fitness after being ill, but had a great time anyway. We made a good attempt on Mont Blanc via the Grand Mulets route (didn't quite get there, but had fun nonetheless), did the Cosmiques Arete (awesome!) and the Aiguille de l'M and some cool scrambles as well as getting thoroughly lost on the Papillon Arete and having a scary ab off into thick cloud!

    I have also had some experience with aid climbing which was much fun. And I have re-gained a lot of confidence and made some real goals for next year, hopefully culminating in a trip to Patagonia this time next year
     Al Evans 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to Mark Stevenson: Sounds like a good year Mark, amazing you did so well in the comps with the demands of HRC.
    Look forward to seeing you sometime in 2008.
    Al
     Trangia 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Mine started with a great day in January cragging on Lions Head above Cape Town followed a couple of days later by the classic multi pitch Fledermaus at Du Toits Kloof, something which had been on my wish list.

    Didn't get as much done on UK rock as I would have liked (too much travelling abroad!), but had some good days on Southern Sandstone, and managed a trip to N Wales where between rain storms repeated Outside Edge at Cwm Sylin which I last climbed nearly a quarter of a century ago.
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to Mark Stevenson:

    Sounds like your year has been a good one and I'm well pleased you managed your HRC! It was good to see you and Rich doing Elder Crack (just bought the Keith Sharples calender and been reminded of it), even if it does look heinous! Your attitude towards pushing yourself out of your comfort zone and trying things has been really inspiring to me
     TRNovice 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to TRNovice:

    Oh and I have managed to go climbing outdoors on 46 different days so far in 2007. This is 13% of the days, or, looking at it another way, 46% of the weekends. Not too bad in a rainy country and as a London-based climber for whom it is an effort to get to any decent rock.
     sutty 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    >Interestingly, my main impression from rereading last year's thread is that I don't feel like the same Pixie who wrote those words a year ago. Looking back, my aims were so narrow and grade-orientated, I guess it's taken more experience in climbing to realise what stuff I like doing and get most out of.

    I think everyone is like that when they start out, not knowing the possibilities and having limited horizons.
    Some time ago I put my progression in climbing on here, starting out walking and scrambling on Kinder and Chew valley and Laddow, getting buses and trains there with bank holidays in the Lakes, again on the bus. Scotland did not come into my aspirations till I joined the forces and could get travel warrants to get me to Fort William and Skye.
    Once transport was available weekends stretched to Wales as well, virtually impossible at the time by public transport unless you paid a fortune for train and taxi fares.

    All young impecunious people will probably be the same, going local then gradually spreading their wings till they can afford big trips virtually anywhere, at cheap prices as well now.

    Next year you will probably discover some mountain crags and get some hard routes done on them as well.

    Then there is Skye, I see a RT meet there next year.
    johnj 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie: This year, due to the pressures of modern life i did very little climbing, However on one of the rare occasions i got out, i managed an ascent of Heaven crack with the Legendary and one time forum's darling JCT in tow
     dpmUK 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Apparently at this time last year my goals were:
    - Get solid at VS - i.e. got better at climbing cracks.
    - Lead a lot more HVS
    - Climb in the Lakes, Yorkshire and Pembroke
    - Do more winter stuff

    Well I wouldn't say I'm solid at VS but have defintiely made progress on cracks and other nasty things so I'm definitely nearer achieving the goal - maybe in 2008. I lead some HVS although hardly lots (3 and a solo). The year turned into more of a year of visiting new places rather than climbing hard.

    Visited all three places I wanted to although would have liked to have done a bit more in Yorkshire and the Lakes. That said visited plenty of ther new / nearly new palces including my first sport holiday abroad so the spirit of this aim was met. As for winter stuff it just didn't happen.

    Never did get on an E1 although as I said in the original thread that was a bit of a stretch target. All in all a good year although a lot of that's been due to the company I've been away with rather than my climbing.
    In reply to CJD:
    > (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
    >
    > have you considered investigating counselling?

    No, I don't need that at all. All is well now, but the memories of what happened are still quite bad - almost worse as it recedes into the past. Sorry, though, I can't speak about it, and shouldn't have mentioned it. I hope, possibly, to write a novel very, very loosely based around it.

     catt 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to TRNovice:
    > (In reply to TRNovice)
    >
    > Oh and I have managed to go climbing outdoors on 46 different days so far in 2007.

    Looking back I think I've managed about 40-45 days on rock, and a few more bumbling about in the rain or rest days at the crag (lots of mental onsighting). And this was a poor year for getting out. Must do better next year. But I'm with you, a couple of weekends left yet...
     Norrie Muir 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I don't have tick lists, aims/goal for climbing. However, I've climbed on 3 crags I've not climbed on before, so for me that is good going.
     owlart 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie: I can't compare against last year, as I only started climbing towards the end of this year, and then only indoors! I've now got a slipped disc and can't do anything again In the brief time I did manage to climb at the wall, I was managing 4s and one 5a.

    I'm certainly going to work on that sit start to the mince pie mountain. Might take several attempts though
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Actually one of my aims was to climb at lots of different places and, inspired by Norrie's post, I just checked my logbook. Turns out I climbed at 37 new crags! I suspect that's going to be hard to top next year...
     TRNovice 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to catt:
    > (In reply to TRNovice)
    > [...]
    >
    > Looking back I think I've managed about 40-45 days on rock, and a few more bumbling about in the rain or rest days at the crag.

    Yes the 46 doesn't include rain days, which I can recall at least 5 or so of, probably more...
    J1234 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    Started the year going well and did a load of classic routes very early in the year and Solid to VS and hoping for E1s in summer and was lined up to go climbing with Dave Birkett, but was a little poorly and the weather was bobbins so I dropped back to Severes and V diffs but got back up to VS 5a and did some more splendid classic routes and had my first venture into Wales and am raring to go for next year.
    Cheers Beds
     0804578 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    turned out to be a good year most goals completed

    Sport
    Redpoint 8a-managed 1 better with a 8a+
    Improve my onsight of 7b-did 7b+ and almost a couple of 7c/+

    Trad
    Onsight my first E5 - managed 4 in the space of 3 weeks
    Headpoint E8 and try a hard grit route - Not quite but did E7 and top roped end of the affair.

    Bouldering
    Climb V11 - done (took 3 sessions though)
    Do some hard stuff in font - Climbed up to 7c+ and flashed 7b on a recent trip

    Try out some DWS - spent 3 days in dorset having lots of fun.

    Bring on next year.

     Fidget 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Well my aim was to enjoy myself - and I did! I also, finally (only 2 years late), started to lead HVS, both in spring and autumn. It was more than just a couple as well, was feeling pretty confident on them and enjoyed them more than any other routes I've done as i've found them really challenging.

    Did a couple of new routes on the Moorland grit. Discovered evening climbing - and did loads of it! Bouldered hard in font. Did some through routes, and organised a successful udge meet. Got my sport head back in Corsica, rediscovered 6a, and onsighted three 6a+'s.

    Had a slow patch in Summer - not just because of the weather, but because of my new house taking over my life... I found it hard to get back into things when the weather started to improve in August, but I finally managed it and realised things were looking up when I noticed I'd ticked several things off my wishlist in autumn. I've actually done quite a few things off my wishlist this year (both particular crags, and particular routes) - but plenty more things on it!

    I also had a couple of articles published which was cool, and read the Rock warrior's way, which will help me carry my new found confidence past the winter and my sore elbow and through into next year!

    On the down side, i'm just as scared as ever at falling off indoors but hey ho, you can't have everything.
     Jus 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I accomplished all my climbing goals I set myself a year ago (onsight E5 again, redpoint 7b+, climb V8) so I'm very pleased.

     Al Evans 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
    > (In reply to CJD)
    I hope, possibly, to write a novel very, very loosely based around it.

    Good luck with it Gordon, writing about something can often be cathartic (not in the purging of the bowels sense).
    Al
     PontiusPirate 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    37 new crags eh?
    I think I managed about 15, and a couple of new routes into the bargin!

    Anyway: climbing - started well (7a onsight, first two 7a+ - ok indoors, but its still boded well for the rest of the year), had a couple of weekends where my head was wobbly and my body was probably still jetlagged, got it together, got an E3, and then broke myself; but somehow have managed to get loads done at loads of different places!

    Mixed, I'd say!

    PP.

    Actually, I can think of about 20 new crags that you've got a decent chance of getting to next year!
     sutty 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to CJD:

    Let it drop, or should we drag up a thread to ask how all the women on here are after being raped? I doubt they would like it and Gordon said he is getting over it and then you drag it back up, just stop now please.
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to PontiusPirate:

    Well I only managed 37 new ones this year because I was so inexperienced last year (I'd only visited about 6 crags this time last year!). Still lots of places I wanted to visit that I didn't manage this year and lots of places I haven't even heard of yet that I'm sure are probably ace and worth a weekend!

    Anyway 2008 is going to be a good year for you, I'm sure your elbow can't stay buggered forever...
     Fidget 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    > Turns out I climbed at 37 new crags! I suspect that's going to be hard to top next year...

    I went to 43 new crags this year That's what I like doing after all, plus moving to a new town helped (Churnet and Moorland grit explorations played a large part).
     Si dH 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    From that last thread:
    'Hopefully at some point get out for some winter climbing, maybe do a IV or two, but just the being there is the important bit. Bloody weather.

    didnt get any done

    Redpoint a F7a in Spain at easter. If my training really comes on well I may set this up to F7a+, you never know.

    managed 6c

    Get out to the mountains when possible in summer and do a bunch of mountain E2s (inc Saxon, Ichabod, White Slab, Shrike) and Left Wall.
    didnt do any E2s this year. Only 'mountain' routes were two VSs on White Ghyll (apart from the alps), although Ive been out walking a few times. Cloest Ive been to moutnain E2 was Raindrop, a multipitch E1, whihc was my best route of the year.

    Hopefully (not sure I'll have time) go back to the alps and do some big classic D-ish-graded mixed ridges. Zmutt ridge, Cresta Rey would both be stunning.
    not quite so bad here, didnt do any mixed ridges due to conditions being very snowy, but did a D north face which was cool

    Get more cofident on limestone to the level where I'm at least happy on E1. Do Debauchery properly.
    not done this - not lead above HVS on limestone this year

    Get some more E2s done on grit and see if I can do one or two E3s.
    none of either. hardly any E1s

    Do a bunch more font 6bs in the near future, maybe a font 6c, if Im boudlering again at the end of the year then target could be a font 7a.'
    probably managed a couple of 6b's when I was still strong last winter, but cant remember - dont log them. Nothign harder than that


    There, that made for miserable reading didnt it? The main reasons have been:
    (a) getting a girlfriend who then moved dow nto Bristol from April onwards so all my weekends were spent with her
    (b) hurting my leg in Font in July (on way back from alps), not climbiong for a month, then 3 weeks after I got back ot climbing (ie after about 3 or 4 trips), I broke my toe playing footy and havent climbed since.

    according to my logbook...
    Total routes of all types 2005 was 321
    Total routes of all types 2006 was 230 (most of my hardest routes though)
    Total routes of all types 2007 was 144 (not climbed muc hharder than VS and only about 3 routes above HVS)

    Its all about lack of mileage. Its now all about fixing the toe and getting ok at climbing again, instead of shit.
     Mark Kemball 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie: Well I didn't get either of my target routes so they're on the list for 2008!
     AJM 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Well.....

    Failed to do the E3, and failed to get solid on E1 (well, the thread I found said onsight an E1 of a style which didn't suit me, which I kind of did with Manzoku in Pembroke, but I'm still nowhere near solid) - I've done a bunch more but they still feel too much like an effort for me to be solid on them. I got some more soft E2s ticked mind you, but they don't count as generally they were easy soft and bold.

    Got Fr6c redpoint, failed on the upgraded goal of 6c+/7a but theres a few days left, and I think its probably more about pulling my finger out and settling down on one thats holding me back there. Onsighted 6b+ (once) too, which indicates to me that I ought to try redpointing harder

    Got my WI4, but not my Scottish V - lack of hill fitness always hampers me in Scotland.

    Didn't really DWS at all. Did Magical Mystery Tour on a very low spring tide with one plunge, which was great fun and I'll be back to try again on a day with a more sensible water level.

    Didn't go to the Alps at all.

    I've had a pretty good year. I've met some grand climbing partners, and climbed with plenty of previous ones again, been to some great new places, and I'm feeling pretty confident about my chances of a good climbing year next year. I'm training a bit, and actually have some motivation to do so, and I'm pushing myself a bit.

    AJM
     AJM 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to AJM:

    Oh, and I played a part in anything up to about 7 new routes depending on how many of them are deemed worth recording. A trip to Mingulay (magical place, but quite wet when we were there) accounts for most of those.......

    AJM
     Si dH 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to Si dH:
    PS as it happens Ive been training a lot recently on my fingerboard, and am significantly stronger now than when I nijured myself at the end of September, and I did climb one (soft) E1 then, so I'm not too despondent about the year comign up - as long as my toe gets better soonish, I expect it to be much more productive than 2007!
     HC~F 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I looked back, but didn't appear to post any aims!

    If I had done, I would say that grade wise I probably exceeded them in what I expected to be able to lead.

    Quantity of climbing though was well down this year. The weather really hasn't helped .

    Next year I want to get out a lot more and continue to increase my confidence. ALready got trips booked to Spain, Thailand and the Alps, so that should provide enough motivation to get going!!

    Same as every year really!!!
     LakesWinter 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Well well well

    Looking at my goals they weren't massively ambitious due to me being pretty injured a year ago.

    1) Get a better shoulder ; achieved, it works ok and I understand more about how to manage it

    2) lead scottish IV, no, hardest thing I did was Hidden Chimney. hmmm, must try harder this year.

    3) Climb some cool routes in the Alps, Yes, totally achieved, did the Papillions arete, Zinal rothorn, Hohlaubgrat and Aiguille de la Tsa. Brilliant. Im hoping for more this year, yeah!
     craig h 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Started ok, but ended up in Holland for 2 whole months (May/June), then ended up working 12 to 14 hour days - 7 days a week until mid-August. Damaged tendons in my left elbow and some weird tendon damage to my right hand on the final week of this job, meant I didn’t even pack my climbing gear for our months holiday to New Zealand (this was however the highlight of the year).

    All too soon I’m back at the indoor walls having not done much outside this year. Thankfully I’ve managed a few days outside in the last 6 weeks, just bumbling on my own

     dpmUK 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to cider nut:
    > I went to 43 new crags this year That's what I like doing after all, plus moving to a new town helped (Churnet and Moorland grit explorations played a large part).

    Well if we're all going to count, I managed 46 in this country plus a further 9 in Corsica. As I said above definitely one of the plus pouints for the year. Moving, Churnet and Moorland stuff also helped me as well as various evening climbing sessions with cider nut and the Congleton Mountaineering club. Going to have top work hard next year to beat that, although if I manage to explore Yorshire properly that should get me some way towards it.
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to dpmUK and cider nut:

    Fine, piss on my 37 new crags bonfire, see if I care :-P
     dpmUK 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Well you can piss on my achievements in so many other areas, Mrs Diff to E3 in 15 months.
     1234None 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:



    Surely it's quality, rather than quantity, that counts

    One trip to Stanage surely has to be worth 10 trips to Horseshoe Quarry (or insert similar crap destination)... :P
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to dpmUK:

    LOL, that figure conveniently misses out the year of indoor climbing and 4 years of martial arts that meant I didn't really start as a beginner though. And that's Ms, btw!
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to 1234None:

    Dunno, I'm not that keen on Stanage...

    You're right though, almost all the places I've visited have been great quality (with the notable exception of St. Govans, which made me cry.) I probably would've visited more places had I not gotten ridiculously addicted to slate back in April but hey ho, there's always next year.
     Fidget 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to 1234None:

    Excuse me! How dare you suggest our destinations were not quality :p
     1234None 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Stanage was used as an example...

    I agree with St Govans being crap - I just can't see why it's so popular to be honest. In fact, I'm a much bugger fan of the North Pembroke crags.

    Cider nut:

    LOL - Errrmmmm...the 30-odd crag tally is quite impressive really. I must add mine up and see how many I've been to...
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to 1234None:

    Mmmm, North Pembroke... I think that's the best place (apart from the slate quarries) that I've visited this year. If I can get on some harder stuff next year when I revisit the area it might even take first place.
     1234None 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to 1234None:

    I'm surprised to find that I make my tally 49 crags visited in the past 8 months or so...most of them are new crags for me, having only been climbing 18 months...

    And they're all quality destinations, with only a couple of exceptions

     1234None 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Re North Pembroke

    Yeah, I love it down there. Had a few days down there recently with Chris The Tall, and did some great routes. Climbed at Caerfai (Armorican etc) for the first time, and also St Non's (Chinon and Shiraz etc). Most of the time was spent at Barcud...I thought Beeline was one of the best routes I've done. Wanted to do Kitten Claws but just didn't feel like I was climbing well enough at the time, so it's on the list for next year...
    OP climbingpixie 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to 1234None:

    Will put Beeline on my wishlist for next year on your recommendation, cheers.
     nz Cragrat 19 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Lets see
    We crap out in the world cup Rugby
    Our League Team can't even beat the Poms
    Our cricket team is crap (again)

    apart from that a reasonably good year
     Reaver2k 20 Dec 2007
    In reply to Reaver2k:
    > (In reply to climbingpixie)

    > Become a good jammer and get the hang of slabs at atleast HS possibly VS (I don't like big runouts and see no reason why I should!)

    Good news! Went to Lawrencefield today and got myself up Three Tree Climb, Great Harry, Pulpit groove (irrelivent) and some other VDiff jamming crack! Really felt like I am beginning to use jams in the right way! To keep myself into the rock rather than to try and pull myself up on.

    Anyone any suggestions on routes to learn finger jamming on? As I can't do it for shit! VS and below please!
     Mark Stevenson 20 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie and others: In terms of 'new crags' I've got a major disadvantage in that I've already been climbing for ages and have already climbed in most of the main areas in England and Wales. However, this year has been amazing in that regard:

    43 new UK crags (most of them major mountain crags). Also 5 new UK bouldering venues plus 5 crags in Sardinia and 5 in the Costa Blanca. That's in addition to repeat visits to another 30+ UK crags and 6 or so Spanish ones.

    I think it's safe to say I've been getting around a bit...

    Other spurious facts: 48 multi-pitch Extremes and possibly 20+ single pitch Extremes totaling well over 100 E-points probably for the first time.
     sutty 20 Dec 2007
    In reply to Mark Stevenson:

    Well the hard rock challenge had you doing lots of those routes in very poor conditions, most people would not have gone out at all on some of those days. Just shows what you can do if you push yourself, and have a good partner to keep you going when things feel grim.
    In reply to climbingpixie: i'm pretty chuffed.
    AIMs:
    *Solid VS my the end of the year
    *multipitch some Severes
    *get some winter stuff in and maybe even get to the alps(unlikely)

    Actual:
    *solid HVS/E1 a few E2s
    *multipitched a few E2s (although i did the easier pitches)
    *Did get to the alps and plan to get back next year.

    so this years been mint for me - from best onsight Severe to onsighting a few E2s. just shows if u climb a lot its easy to progress.
     Offwidth 20 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Another great year for me...nothing too hard but a good mix of guidebook work, fun stuff, obscure venues, getting stuck in wide slots and touristic star ticking on overseas trips. Also done a lot of armchair climbing again: guidebooks work, our website and trying to get some climbing based IT projects going at work. Just a shame Lynn popped her achilles and only shared the first half of the real climbing. Also looking forward to next year for much of the same and hopefully some shiny new guidebooks showing some fruit from our efforts. Shared enjoyment of course with some good fun people and on that subject: nice to meet you at last
    In reply to climbingpixie: Yeah, it's been a good year. Spent the first half travelling and climbing in the southern hemisphere and then really got to grips with my trad climbing back in the UK.
    Onsighted my first E3 and feel confident on E1. Started biking to work, running more on the fells, even started indoor bouldering - yikes. Never thought that would happen but I love it. But best of all I've made loads of new friends through my travelling and climbing!!!
    matthew123 21 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    Pretty much wasted the whole year working and watching the rain. Hoping for a more productive start to the new year
     steve taylor 21 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Most free of climbing due to several injuries.

    However, managed to get 6 or so new routes done, and an FFA, so I can't complain too much.

    Looking forward to a less injury-ridden 2008.
     jkarran 21 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    2007 was good and bad. I met my modest aims though.

    From last year's thread: Just to get out and climb a bit. Gradewise: Not fussed so long as it isn't a backward step!
    jk


    The good bit: I did get out and climb especially bouldering in the summer and a few cool trips away, climbing cool stuff and making new friends. When I did climb it was generally at or beyond my previous normal level.

    The bad bit: I started the year feeling weak and with a nasty injury to 3 fingers on the right hand. I got strong and motivated (by my standards) during the summer. I end the year with a ruined finger on the left hand and sore, clicky ankles.

    Ho hum... I need to look after myself a bit more in 2008. This year's aims are more ambitious but I plan to move back closer to the rock.
    jk
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Last year's goals were:

    "7c redpoint, V8, more E4's and one possible E5"

    Failed miserably..... Sum total of 7b, E2 and V7 (although I am off to Spain on the 28th so I might well tick 7b+ if I'm lucky)

    However my other goal of:

    "Getting out at all after me little un's born"

    Went superbly... Got out loads, did a 3 week trip and even managed to visit some new places, I also climbed equally as well as the year before....

    Not a bad year all told....

    Didn't have any solid plans for this year, but, despite regular periods of injury, I've had a pretty decent year.

    On of my aims was to do a "proper" onsight of an E3, and I've done a couple, so that's pretty decent.

    I was also keen on finally getting a 7a at font (I know, I know doesn't everyone) and I managed 3, one of them wasn't soft-touch either

    Haven't done much sport, got a 7a second go in a scrubby quarry but I fancy getting on some stuff next year at the anvil.

    Best part of the year was definitely new routing in the outer hebrides, amazing experience and can't wait to go back next year.

    Had a pretty decent winter so far, did a Grade V mixed route, which was an early-season aim so hopefully the conditions are good this year and I can get one some more.


    Plans for next year........nothing in particular except trying to stay injury free!!!!!
     Jus 21 Dec 2007
    In reply to Duncan Disorderly:

    Well done Dunc, there's hope for us new dads yet!

    Have a brilliant trip, see you in the new year.
     stevoclimbit 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    My years been rough. I´m sixteen and I´ve spent every night in a tent for a children´s hospice. Nearly raised two and a half thousand. It´s been cold. About to spend my last week in Langdale Valley. It was cool to begin with but the novelty wore off on about January 4th 2007.
     whiting.jp 24 Dec 2007
    > Do more than this year (not that this year was a bad year by any means),

    Well, I managed this, with the rubbishy summer it was a close run thing, but a weeks climbing holiday made up for it. I'd have liked to have done more still, but hey, it wasn't bad, lots of enjoyable climbing

    > keep on pushing, and just maybe sneak my lead grade up from around VS to
    > the E grades.

    Well umm, close-ish, but no cigar. I've done a good handful of solid VS, and I managed TPS which I was (and still am) very chuffed about, even if it doesn't quite count as an E number. I blame the summer again, but maybe I just wussed out. I get the impression it's all in my head, that I've got the ability and just need to push harder, but as always, easier said than done

    So overall, a good (and on occasion extremely enjoyably) years climbing, but with plenty of room for bigger improvements next year. We shall see.
    OP climbingpixie 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to stevoclimbit:

    Good effort lad. You got a link to a 'just giving' page or something, in case people want to contribute?
     stevoclimbit 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    i dont unfortunately. can give an address if any individuals want to send money or if any companies want to send kit!!!! (have slept in a vango dome for the whole year, and uv rays have destroyed it). will be staying in wasdale valley next week so if any one is in the area and wants to give a donation ill be in old dungeon ghyll. have a brill christmas guys. x. .
     Dominion 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Been ill since July 2006, so haven't climbed outdoors except for two very brief sessions at Markfield Quarry and Beacon Hill, and those both in 2006.

    Indoors, have stagnated at around the F6b+ grade, as I've lost muscle and stamina because of what is effectively malnutrition.

    However, I have a proper diagnosis of my medical problems now, and some of the medication is working in parts, but I still ain't well - but better than I was back in March/April this year when I was just completely knackered and losing weight (muscle mostly) likes nobody's business...

    So, hopefully, if I can get on the right meds, then I might be able to get scrabbling up some VDiffs and Severes while I get my outdoors head back on, and then maybe finally start cracking on VSes - which was my 2006 target.

    Indoors, well, hope to finally get up an F6c or two. Mostly dependent on hand strenth, so I'll have to start actively working on that.

    Hey ho
     stevoclimbit 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to stevoclimbit: address is 89 wrotham road, borough green, kent. tn15 8dq. any support is gratefully recieved. it is a great charity that helps kids with life threatening illnesses. im only sixteen and feel like a mug saying kids, but you get the idea. hope santa brings you all the climbing kit you dream of. .
     sutty 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to stevoclimbit:

    Got your mail, can you tell us the name of the charity so people can donate to it?
     stevoclimbit 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to sutty: it´s demelza house. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2007/12/17/nxmas517.xm...
    if you could make any checks payable to stephen james young i can pay them into my account and then my scout group will be giving demelza a giant check. thanks. x. . happy christmas.
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    pretty well-

    im ahead of my aims - i aimed to lead some E1's in my first year of trad climbing and ive done that in my first 9 months of trad climbing.



    Yrmenlaf 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to stevoclimbit:


    Top effort

    My year?

    Its been ordinary. Not really done anything worthwhile. No disasters either, mind...


    Y.
     stevoclimbit 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to stevoclimbit:
    > (In reply to climbingpixie)
    >
    > will be staying in wasdale valley next week

    meant langdale sorry x
     Al Evans 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to Yrmenlaf: Reading all this is making my back hurt again
    In reply to climbingpixie: 2007 has been pretty good.

    I've climbed lots of brillian VS-E1 routes, At lots of new crags with a plethora of new partners, all of whom I've enjoyed climbing with, which is by far the most important aspect of climbing.

    The goals for the year were:

    >Onsite E3
    >Climb the Walker spur
    >Onsite scottish V
    >Onsite WI 5.

    I have sort of done 3 of them. I've onsighted WI5 and Scotish V. I have sort of onsighted E3, but it was an uber soft slate E3, which had bolts and gets E2 in another guide! I havn't climbed the walker spur, but then again I havn't been to the alps.

    All in all a good year.

    This years goals:-

    Onsight proper E3. Snicksnack would be good
    Rematch with the Dervish and Strand
    Onsight Left Wall and Saxon.
    Get solid at E2 on a varity of rock types.
    Climb with lots of new people
    Climb Albatross
    Onsight VII
    Onsight WI6
    Learn to climb Grit!
    Climb Walker Spur, Doites and Eiger North Walls before I'm 20.
    Climb Colton/Mac

    We will see!
     mikehike 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    Good thread,

    2007 was my 1st year of climbing. Managed loads of indoor climbing and only a wee bit outside.
    Thanks to all who replied to my questions, when starting out the advice given saved me dosh.

    For 2008 lets hope the weathers good so we can get out to the crags


    all the best
    mikehike
    Yrmenlaf 24 Dec 2007
    In reply to Yrmenlaf:

    > Its been ordinary.

    I did have one cracking day on Amphitheatre Buttress with Sandrine and Kamala.

    No great achievement, but good memories.

    So thanks to both of you.

    Y.

    OP climbingpixie 25 Dec 2007
    In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

    Nice one, it does sound like you've had a good one.

    > I have sort of onsighted E3, but it was an uber soft slate E3, which had
    bolts and gets E2 in another guide!

    Ooh, what route was it? Sorry, I'm just nosy and obsessive over slate!
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    >
    > Ooh, what route was it? Sorry, I'm just nosy and obsessive over slate!

    Never as good as the first time and Is it a crime. Round the corner from the Dervish.

    I fell off the Dervish after doing them! Well done on doing that one.

    Perhaps you should come up to the Lakes and I'll show you some proper climbing and better slate!
     ritchierich 25 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    Well my climbing year started out great,indoor training was up to 6C/some 6C+'s feeling confident and strong.
    Got a load of of really good trad routes done including "The Strand", "Park Lane/Doomville", "Bran Flake", "Breaking the Barrier", "Troy" and "Super Direct" on dinas mot.
    Everything was in place to do "Cemetery Gates", "Cenotaph Corner" and a 5 day trip to do some climbing in the Lakes.

    AND THEN SUDDENLY,sunny afternoon in June at the Castle Inn rock face Llysfaen,just finished my third and final 6C sport route of the day when my belay partner lost control of the rope and dropped me 26 feet to the tarmar car park smashing both my heel bones. OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Started back climbing again now indoors and up to 6A+ but still lot of pain in my feet and ankles, so here is hoping that next year is going to be a good one and I can get back to climbing at the level I was before my accident.

    Wish all here on the forum a Merry Christmas and brilliant climbing New Year.
    OP climbingpixie 25 Dec 2007
    In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

    Not done either of those. All we'd done the day I did CTD was Mental Lentils/Monster Kitten and toproped Ladder Resist so I was still fresh, though it came on the back of spending the previous day and the weekend before in the quarries so I definitely had my slate head on.

    > Perhaps you should come up to the Lakes and I'll show you some proper climbing and better slate!

    Hey, if you're serious I may well take you up on that offer. It'd be cool to climb with you, you always seem really committed, enthusiastic and ambitious about your climbing and I like that in a partner. I've got Darklands in Cathedral Quarry on my routes wishlist for 2008, and the lakes as a destination I'd like to visit anyway
    OP climbingpixie 25 Dec 2007
    In reply to ritchierich:

    Jesus, glad you're ok now and I hope 2008 turns out luckier for you.
     Hammy 25 Dec 2007
    Definitely had plenty of fun this year though less on the climbing and more on the hillwalking and caving.

    My notes show 32 days cragging with 252 routes, which is more in quantity than for many a year, though much of this was soloing and bouldering.

    Hillwalking days added up to 41, with 69 2000'+ summits adding nicely to my Munro quota and pushing on towards the 2000' Summits of England and Wales, which I have been gently working towards over the years.

    Much more of my time has been spent underground with 100 days caving and 180 trips.

    Open canoeing has been on the back burner this year with only 10 days out.

    Next year I'd love to get back towards my old climbing standard and be able to confidently lead E1 with the occasional well selected E2, but I'm still nursing a finger tendon from overdoing it at Newstones in October so I'll have to take it slowly!
     IanJackson 26 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Goals for 2007

    Onsight E1
    > done

    Do something in the alps
    > Kinda, not the route i wanted.

    Solo Mountain VS
    > Not all the ones i wanted

    Do something in Scotland
    > Done

    Goals for 2008

    Onsight (or fail trying) a selected E5

    Soild soloing Mountain HVS

    Do some something in the alps.

    Climb a Scot VI

    Try all my wishlist
     Wee Tam 26 Dec 2007
     duncan 31 Dec 2007
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    I managed two months of uninjuredness, so it wasn’t the most productive of years. There were two distinct highlights though.

    One was soloing Eagle Ridge, followed by the five Lochnegar Munros, on a day of see-for-a-hundred-miles clarity. It was early May, midweek, and I drove up from Edinburgh on my own for the day. The corrie was deserted. There was still plenty of snow and some ice left. It looked quite impressive, almost Alpine. I had not climbed much for a year and was not at my most confident. It felt committing to start: there was a patch of nevé and a bergshrund to test my resolve. Would it be wet or icy higher up? I thought twice before heading off, but I’m so glad I did, it felt like the best route of the grade I’ve ever done, all the more satisfying for being a proper challenge at the time.

    The other was Grand Wall at Squamish. There had been two weeks of cloud and drizzle, so when it finally dried out, four other parties threw themselves at it before us. Fortunately, three of them bailed and suddenly, briefly, we had that ‘adrift on a granite sea’ feeling. It is not a flawless route but there is some great climbing in the middle section. It was good to get up something of a decent size for a change, even doing some of the leading. Thanks to a UKC contributor.
     sutty 01 Jan 2008
    In reply to stevoclimbit:

    Congratulations on doing your camping all year, a donation will be on its way to you.

    Just heard it on the radio news.
     Wilbur 01 Jan 2008
    In reply to climbingpixie:

    Well my aims on that thread were;

    N Wales week - Cemetery gates and sheaf. YEP - GOT CEM GATES PLUS ONE OTHER E1 AND QUITE A FEW HVS (DIDN'T DO SHEAF BUT DID MANAGE A FIRST VISIT TO CLOGGY LATER IN THE YEAR)

    The Conger - DWS. NOPE :O(

    Swanage - Quality St, Freda, Tensor 2, Mistaken identity and JO (or other VS/HVS in the ruckle!). DIDN'T GET MUCH DONE IN SWANGE ALTHOUGH DID MANAGE A FIRST VISIT TO THE RUCKLE ON A NICE ENOUGH VS

    Scotland - Cuillin ridge planned for May. YEP, TICKED IT OFF MIRACULOUSLY

    Cornwall week - haven't started a tick list yet but any Quality routes! NOPE

    oh and consolidate HVS on diff rock types... YEP - THIS YEAR I TICKED E1/HVS SINGLE AND MP ROUTES ON THE CROMLECH, TREMADOG, HOLYHEAD MOUNTAIN, RAVEN CRAG, SHORN CLIFF, WINTOURS LEAP, SLATE, THE GROCHAN AND BURBAGE.

    So a pretty successful year going by my aims from Jan!
     DaveWarb 01 Jan 2008
    In reply to climbingpixie:
    Goals for this year: (We set ourselves low targets!)
    Competent at VS both here and in the Lakes. - Done!
    Top Rope E1 - Only Top Roped 1 before i understood all this onsight stuff!
    Climb on Gritstone - Done
    Go for a climbing holiday - Done (Scotland, Shyte though)

    Goals next year:
    Climb allot more E1's and E2's, and i should be looking to do some E3's
    Climb more in places like the Peak and Lakes
    Do some winter stuff!
    Go to the Alps and do some Alpine routes

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