Tom Randall has just climbed a hard and bold line up the wall to the right if Master's Edge, E7 6c, on Millstone Edge. Tom has named the route Pure Now, and graded it E9 6c...
I've always said he can't tell the difference between one grade and another ! And is it really the same tech grade as Master's Edge ?
"I don't want to big it up too much as it's not that much of significant bit of climbing"
Is the route entirely independent of Master's Edge, or does it use that until the shot holes ? Either way it is a pretty iconic bit of rock, and a big gap.
> Is the route entirely independent of Master's Edge, or does it use that until the shot holes ? Either way it is a pretty iconic bit of rock, and a big gap.
I think you climb masters edge to near enough the last move (classic pop for the jug) but move right onto the face.
I don't think he chose this route because it was hard and serious - he chose it because he saw the new line potential. That it was hard and serious was purely incidental.
> I don't think he chose this route because it was hard and serious - he chose it because he saw the new line potential. That it was hard and serious was purely incidental.
"This lead me to scouting around the gritstone edges looking for something that I thought would be of 8a or more to top rope but one where a fall during the hard climbing would lead to hospital. I needed it to be so uncompromising that there was no shirking away from the reality of the situation"
Probably because the pinks are a bit softer than the whites. So the route probably requires more smearing with the left foot and edging with the right foot.
> "This lead me to scouting around the gritstone edges looking for something that I thought would be of 8a or more to top rope but one where a fall during the hard climbing would lead to hospital. I needed it to be so uncompromising that there was no shirking away from the reality of the situation"
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