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Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=621118
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/134083854 Meeting Tom Bolger – Tom returned to high level climbing after a nasty back injury – some potential learnings here for various broken fit-clubbers!?! (Oh, and Tom has just opened some self-catering flats in Cornudella – perfect for any fit clubbers considering a trip to Siurana - Valley, Siurana - Village or Montsant?)
Dandan82; Bummer on the NHS appointment booking cock-ups – any progress this week?
Mutl3y; Building back up to your Beastmaker PB – more of the same this week?
AJM; very wise to leave heavy training well alone when hungover! Upping the fitness volume soon?
Hms; good solid week, did you suffer from cabin fever after a few days off climbing? Circus circus will still be there next week!
Biscuit; on the comeback trail – keep up the psyche
Mattrm; did you get back on the redpoint project this week?
Nick Russell; how’s the wrist? What did the physio have say about the 5-pack?
Joughton; Mortlock’s Arete is a classic tick and should set you up for some nice soft Pembroke E5’s – maybe something in Huntsmans Leap?
Ally Smith; quick note to self - ice broken body parts with higher frequency!
Tyler; it’s Gordale, not Goredale!! Have the elbow and shoulder settled down this week?
Flopsicle; what did you learn from the video self-analysis?
Just Tintin; Iron supplements needed to get your haemocrit levels back up?
Planetmarshall; did you get on an E1 this week?
alexm198; enjoying some more R&R; did you get out for those runs this week?
Joyce; climbing well and sprog due – smiles all round
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: vimeo.com/134083854 Meeting Tom Bolger – Tom returned to high level climbing after a nasty back injury – some potential learnings here for various broken fit-clubbers!?! (Oh, and Tom has just opened some self-catering flats in Cornudella – perfect for any fit clubbers considering a trip to Siurana - Valley, Siurana - Village or Montsant?)
Dandan82; Bummer on the NHS appointment booking cock-ups – any progress this week?
Mutl3y; Building back up to your Beastmaker PB – more of the same this week?
AJM; very wise to leave heavy training well alone when hungover! Upping the fitness volume soon?
Hms; good solid week, did you suffer from cabin fever after a few days off climbing? Circus circus will still be there next week!
Biscuit; on the comeback trail – keep up the psyche
Mattrm; did you get back on the redpoint project this week?
Nick Russell; how’s the wrist? What did the physio have say about the 5-pack?
Joughton; Mortlock’s Arete is a classic tick and should set you up for some nice soft Pembroke E5’s – maybe something in Huntsmans Leap?
Ally Smith; quick note to self - ice broken body parts with higher frequency!
Tyler; it’s Gordale, not Goredale!! Have the elbow and shoulder settled down this week?
Flopsicle; what did you learn from the video self-analysis?
Just Tintin; Iron supplements needed to get your haemocrit levels back up?
Planetmarshall; did you get on an E1 this week?
alexm198; enjoying some more R&R; did you get out for those runs this week?
Joyce; climbing well and sprog due – smiles all round
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hey Ally, thanks for doing FitClub this week. Managed to get psyched and have got out on a few runs this week. Pretty brutal in the 35+ degree heat... Mark Twight's Kiss or Kill has got me itching to get back into the mountains and do some cool things.
M: 2km/300m ascent trail, approx HR Zone 1. Basically just missioned up a nearby hill, was pretty awful - no track meant bushwhacking through 6ft high spiky scrub. Fun fun. Did some sets of pushups and pull-ups at the top.
T: Rest
W: 2.2km/300m ascent trail, approx HR Zone 1. Same hill, different route. Easier but still too overgrown to keep the pace up.
T: Rest
F: 10.2km/400m ascent trail, approx HR Zone 3. So nice to actually run on a trail again! Crazy hot though.
S: Rest
S: Bodyweight workout planned for this evening.
Last week's goals: 3 uphill runs tick, 2 bodyweight workouts as of tonight, should be a tick!
STG (this week): 2 more runs including a 14km circuit I've scoped out. 2 more bodyweight workouts.
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
Hey Ally, thanks for doing FitClub this week. Managed to get psyched and have got out on a few runs this week. Pretty brutal in the 35+ degree heat... Mark Twight's Kiss or Kill has got me itching to get back into the mountains and do some cool things.
M: 2km/300m ascent trail, approx HR Zone 1. Basically just missioned up a nearby hill, was pretty awful - no track meant bushwhacking through 6ft high spiky scrub. Fun fun. Did some sets of pushups and pull-ups at the top.
T: Rest
W: 2.2km/300m ascent trail, approx HR Zone 1. Same hill, different route. Easier but still too overgrown to keep the pace up.
T: Rest
F: 10.2km/400m ascent trail, approx HR Zone 3. So nice to actually run on a trail again! Crazy hot though.
S: Rest
S: Bodyweight workout planned for this evening.
Last week's goals: 3 uphill runs tick, 2 bodyweight workouts as of tonight, should be a tick!
STG (this week): 2 more runs including a 14km circuit I've scoped out. 2 more bodyweight workouts.
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally. Looks like the broken bits aren't holding you ( or your car ) back much. Great tick mate!
Good week really. Worked every day ( yes i am typing this behind the counter ) but managed 3.5 sessions.
1 - tried a 12 route 6c pyramid again. Failed at the 6c despite feeling OK as it was a necky move over the lip of the Mammut. Totally highlighted the fact i've lost a lot of lead confidence. Session took a while and i didn't finish the down side of the pyramid ( 9 routes done ), but i feel i could have done so that's progress. Movement is coming together again. My feet actually feel like they're under my control.
2 - falling practice. Was going well and building up to taking the big double clipper whipper over the lip when someone in the centre fell off for real and curtailed the session
3 - had a meeting at The Boardroom so stayed on for a boulder after. Nice place and nice problems. Managed to flash 4 circuits up to V4, apart from one dropped V3 through the roof section. 28 problems in total i think. Skin was very painful and i assumed there would be a cafe there so didn't take any food. Lack of energy meant i didn't try anything else harder. Noticeable loss of form when trying hard up high on steep stuff. Got very tense.
4 - quick routes session after work. Warm up was feeling hard. Tired. Was thinking of turning it into another falling session but new ( to me ) belayer who isn't all that experienced at soft catches etc. meant i went vertical top roping. Actually did some of my own routes and thought they were excellent
3x leads 6a+, 6b, 6b+
3x top rope 6a, 6b+, 6c+
Also had a sports massage on Thursday for my dodgy shoulderblade. I am working on treating the cause as well as the symptom but have been slack this week on S&C and physio. Prioritised climbing because i could for once.
Body fat measuring has been a bit sporadic but diet has been generally v good. Seems to have settled around 18.5% so that's that target hit.
Next week
Got the kids back and going away with them for a week so i'll do some running if i can and see what i can fit in. Maintain diet and do shoulder physio every day.
Cheers Ally. Looks like the broken bits aren't holding you ( or your car ) back much. Great tick mate!
Good week really. Worked every day ( yes i am typing this behind the counter ) but managed 3.5 sessions.
1 - tried a 12 route 6c pyramid again. Failed at the 6c despite feeling OK as it was a necky move over the lip of the Mammut. Totally highlighted the fact i've lost a lot of lead confidence. Session took a while and i didn't finish the down side of the pyramid ( 9 routes done ), but i feel i could have done so that's progress. Movement is coming together again. My feet actually feel like they're under my control.
2 - falling practice. Was going well and building up to taking the big double clipper whipper over the lip when someone in the centre fell off for real and curtailed the session
3 - had a meeting at The Boardroom so stayed on for a boulder after. Nice place and nice problems. Managed to flash 4 circuits up to V4, apart from one dropped V3 through the roof section. 28 problems in total i think. Skin was very painful and i assumed there would be a cafe there so didn't take any food. Lack of energy meant i didn't try anything else harder. Noticeable loss of form when trying hard up high on steep stuff. Got very tense.
4 - quick routes session after work. Warm up was feeling hard. Tired. Was thinking of turning it into another falling session but new ( to me ) belayer who isn't all that experienced at soft catches etc. meant i went vertical top roping. Actually did some of my own routes and thought they were excellent
3x leads 6a+, 6b, 6b+
3x top rope 6a, 6b+, 6c+
Also had a sports massage on Thursday for my dodgy shoulderblade. I am working on treating the cause as well as the symptom but have been slack this week on S&C and physio. Prioritised climbing because i could for once.
Body fat measuring has been a bit sporadic but diet has been generally v good. Seems to have settled around 18.5% so that's that target hit.
Next week
Got the kids back and going away with them for a week so i'll do some running if i can and see what i can fit in. Maintain diet and do shoulder physio every day.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Yeah I've done a few of the E5s down there and found them all reasonable, looking to do JAD/STE and maybe Darkness at Noon. Don't suppose you've heard any beta on Hunter-Killer? There's also some very cool looking stuff on the Space Face and in Hollow Caves Bay.
Didn't manage to get out this week because the only times its been sunny I've been busy which has been frustrating! Felt like I didn't have as much control when bouldering as I have done in the past so decided to use the time getting some core strength back.
STG: Get my trad head back on. (TICK) Onsight an E5 if the weather plays ball (Fail, didn't manage to get out)
MTG: Onsight Lord of the Flies and some other E6s this summer, head point an E7. Climb Salathe Wall on El Cap with Dad in September.
LTG: Project Get Strong Fingers when I return to uni. Plans are to have at least one fingerboard session each week, and to boulder at least three times a week. Be able to 1-4-7 the medium rungs. Boulder Font 7c in Northumberland.
BHAG: Mecca, 8b+.
Mon - Home board session, just spent some time getting reacquainted and setting some new hard stuff that I can't touch.
Tue - Rockover bouldering. Grades were a big all over the place so hard to know how well I was climbing but I flashed a V6 and got a couple of V7s done.
Wed - conditioning and antagonistics gym session
Thurs - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - brief fingerboard session to see where I was at then more core and antagonists.
Sun - might be able to do some bouldering this evening.
Cheers, Jake
Yeah I've done a few of the E5s down there and found them all reasonable, looking to do JAD/STE and maybe Darkness at Noon. Don't suppose you've heard any beta on Hunter-Killer? There's also some very cool looking stuff on the Space Face and in Hollow Caves Bay.
Didn't manage to get out this week because the only times its been sunny I've been busy which has been frustrating! Felt like I didn't have as much control when bouldering as I have done in the past so decided to use the time getting some core strength back.
STG: Get my trad head back on. (TICK) Onsight an E5 if the weather plays ball (Fail, didn't manage to get out)
MTG: Onsight Lord of the Flies and some other E6s this summer, head point an E7. Climb Salathe Wall on El Cap with Dad in September.
LTG: Project Get Strong Fingers when I return to uni. Plans are to have at least one fingerboard session each week, and to boulder at least three times a week. Be able to 1-4-7 the medium rungs. Boulder Font 7c in Northumberland.
BHAG: Mecca, 8b+.
Mon - Home board session, just spent some time getting reacquainted and setting some new hard stuff that I can't touch.
Tue - Rockover bouldering. Grades were a big all over the place so hard to know how well I was climbing but I flashed a V6 and got a couple of V7s done.
Wed - conditioning and antagonistics gym session
Thurs - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - brief fingerboard session to see where I was at then more core and antagonists.
Sun - might be able to do some bouldering this evening.
Cheers, Jake
Post edited at 12:59
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for doing the summaries ally!
M-works black session (6th/10 hardest). Did ok I guess managed about ten. But I blatantly have no technique. Stretch session.
T- rest and stretches
W- beastmaker 5B routine. Managed 72/84 again. Had a 10 minute rest between sets. Going to keep that up. Am sure I will make progress.
T- rest and stretch
F- outside. First time bouldering on lime. Ticked 1x6A, 1x6B, 1x6C & 3x7A. All felt quite easy compared to grit. Before this session my lifetime tally of 7As was two, so this was quite some haul for me!
S- rest, topped out mother cap for the first time in my life. Lots of etchings up there.
S- works black session. Managed about 16 of them but still found the hard ones hard. Spent a lot more goes on things I couldn't do than things I could do....ain't that the way!?
Weight - stable at 66.x
Mojo- keen!
Thanks for doing the summaries ally!
M-works black session (6th/10 hardest). Did ok I guess managed about ten. But I blatantly have no technique. Stretch session.
T- rest and stretches
W- beastmaker 5B routine. Managed 72/84 again. Had a 10 minute rest between sets. Going to keep that up. Am sure I will make progress.
T- rest and stretch
F- outside. First time bouldering on lime. Ticked 1x6A, 1x6B, 1x6C & 3x7A. All felt quite easy compared to grit. Before this session my lifetime tally of 7As was two, so this was quite some haul for me!
S- rest, topped out mother cap for the first time in my life. Lots of etchings up there.
S- works black session. Managed about 16 of them but still found the hard ones hard. Spent a lot more goes on things I couldn't do than things I could do....ain't that the way!?
Weight - stable at 66.x
Mojo- keen!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally. Yeah the aeropow is starting in a few weeks I think.
Monday - as mentioned, finished off last week's sessions, a rings session and a 1-on-2-off I think it was. Good session, solid work.
Tuesday - busy after work, team evening out.
Wednesday - wall. Had a shit day at work and couldnt switch off at the wall. Got jack all done.
Thursday - wall. Much better. Ancap, stepped up the difficulty although a bit far, a few failures. Also fitted in 2 offset pullups sessions on rings and some weighted pullups sets.
Friday - weighted pullups before work, then drove to Manchester after work.
Saturday - a peak lime pilgrimage through time with Alex and Ella. Tor to start, did some stuff on pinches wall and Too Hard for Mark Leach (6C). Then went to crag X. Spent ages trying to get Ellas beta to work on the 7A through the roof on the far left but couldn't get the heel toe to stick. Alex tried it and promptly coukdnt make it work either which made me feel better. Narrow heel handy I think. Worked out some different beta and mamaged to smash it in on the last of my arms. By my standards that's a pretty good day out. Once I got the beta sorted the 7a felt ok, although by the time I sorted it out it put up a fight.
Sunday - short walk and am going to try and fit in a load of conditioning when I get home.
Oh, and 5 commutes with a few pbs. I've entered a bunch of the strava challenges for august, which I'll never complete in their whole but maybe a Paris-brest (600km, half the p-b-p) month and 50% of the height challenge (5500?) woukd be the very stretching end of plausible...
> AJM; very wise to leave heavy training well alone when hungover! Upping the fitness volume soon?
Cheers Ally. Yeah the aeropow is starting in a few weeks I think.
Monday - as mentioned, finished off last week's sessions, a rings session and a 1-on-2-off I think it was. Good session, solid work.
Tuesday - busy after work, team evening out.
Wednesday - wall. Had a shit day at work and couldnt switch off at the wall. Got jack all done.
Thursday - wall. Much better. Ancap, stepped up the difficulty although a bit far, a few failures. Also fitted in 2 offset pullups sessions on rings and some weighted pullups sets.
Friday - weighted pullups before work, then drove to Manchester after work.
Saturday - a peak lime pilgrimage through time with Alex and Ella. Tor to start, did some stuff on pinches wall and Too Hard for Mark Leach (6C). Then went to crag X. Spent ages trying to get Ellas beta to work on the 7A through the roof on the far left but couldn't get the heel toe to stick. Alex tried it and promptly coukdnt make it work either which made me feel better. Narrow heel handy I think. Worked out some different beta and mamaged to smash it in on the last of my arms. By my standards that's a pretty good day out. Once I got the beta sorted the 7a felt ok, although by the time I sorted it out it put up a fight.
Sunday - short walk and am going to try and fit in a load of conditioning when I get home.
Oh, and 5 commutes with a few pbs. I've entered a bunch of the strava challenges for august, which I'll never complete in their whole but maybe a Paris-brest (600km, half the p-b-p) month and 50% of the height challenge (5500?) woukd be the very stretching end of plausible...
Post edited at 20:34
In reply to Ally Smith:
Oh the shame, I'm blaming auto correct or saying it was deliberate!
M: Rest
T: Only had a short window so went to BoulderUK, all new set downstairs. Felt good but failed to complete a couple of 5s and even a 4.
W: Rest
T: Gordale, two goes up Dogpoint including an acclimatisation session on full Pierrepoint - exposed. Rope got stuck pulling it through and it was fully dark by now.
F: Decided to take my long suffering wife on a nice, romantic drive in the countryside. She was obviously delighted to find herself at Gordale belaying me while I rescued my rope. While we were there I thought I may as well have a quick top rope of Dogpoint while Fi got eaten by midges, she says she can't wait until our next date night but I sensed she may have been being sarcastic.
S: Fiona's day out so we went for a walk, I suggested Cheedale but we ended up in Edale having emptied the car of all climbing gear. Hailstones in August was novel and I felt wiped out all day.
S: early start at Gordale to avoid the crowds, needless to say we were the only group there. Felt even more wiped out. 3x dogged up Pierrepoint but didn't go to top on last go. Best effort was in warm up when I went from crux to Dogpoint belay, should have done Dogpoint on my second attempt but not too bothered as it'll go soon and the intention is to do Pierrepoint anyway. Wiped out now, two days rest needed I think.
My weight is consistently below 10 9 now but might aim to loose some more this week. Shoulder seems ok but elbow getting sore. I'm going to try and climb outdoors Wed, Sat and Sun. Chuffed to find that Pierrepoint is in Extreme rock so I'm happy for this to be the final chapter of my Yorkshire trilogy
> it’s Gordale, not Goredale!!
Oh the shame, I'm blaming auto correct or saying it was deliberate!
M: Rest
T: Only had a short window so went to BoulderUK, all new set downstairs. Felt good but failed to complete a couple of 5s and even a 4.
W: Rest
T: Gordale, two goes up Dogpoint including an acclimatisation session on full Pierrepoint - exposed. Rope got stuck pulling it through and it was fully dark by now.
F: Decided to take my long suffering wife on a nice, romantic drive in the countryside. She was obviously delighted to find herself at Gordale belaying me while I rescued my rope. While we were there I thought I may as well have a quick top rope of Dogpoint while Fi got eaten by midges, she says she can't wait until our next date night but I sensed she may have been being sarcastic.
S: Fiona's day out so we went for a walk, I suggested Cheedale but we ended up in Edale having emptied the car of all climbing gear. Hailstones in August was novel and I felt wiped out all day.
S: early start at Gordale to avoid the crowds, needless to say we were the only group there. Felt even more wiped out. 3x dogged up Pierrepoint but didn't go to top on last go. Best effort was in warm up when I went from crux to Dogpoint belay, should have done Dogpoint on my second attempt but not too bothered as it'll go soon and the intention is to do Pierrepoint anyway. Wiped out now, two days rest needed I think.
My weight is consistently below 10 9 now but might aim to loose some more this week. Shoulder seems ok but elbow getting sore. I'm going to try and climb outdoors Wed, Sat and Sun. Chuffed to find that Pierrepoint is in Extreme rock so I'm happy for this to be the final chapter of my Yorkshire trilogy
Post edited at 21:07
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
The wrist is making really good progress. Reading Dave Mac's book reminded me that rehab is not a passive process and that sitting on my arse waiting for it to get better wouldn't work. I kept up with the icing and started doing some theraband exercises of just about every wrist action I could think of. Improvements by day 2, almost back to normal now. That said, Dave Mac is also quite clear that 'no pain' != 'normal function' so I'm going to set out a 4-6 week progression back to former climbing intensity. If I write it down in advance, I won't forget.
I haven't actually seen a physio, about the wrist or the asymmetry. Comments from Nina last year concerning general asymmetry (in that case in my shoulders) suggested offset pull ups, side plank, etc. Do the same amount on both sides, working to the failure of the weaker side. That's my general plan now, so I'm making sure all my core sessions consist mainly of asymmetric exercises.
Numbers in brackets are weight (am/pm). I seem to be getting a few readings below 65 already. I'll start posting 5-day moving averages next week now that I've got a week of readings. Saturday pm and Sunday am are missing as I was staying at a friend's house. I looked in 4 of his bathrooms for scales but didn't find any!
M - 6km run, core. (66.9/66.1)
T - Just rehab exercises. Started with the band. (66.1/66.5)
W - 30 min run, intervals, core. (65.8/65.8)
T - Climbing at Cheddar. Nothing above 6b but good to get out on rock. (64.9/65.4)
F - core. (64.8/65.3)
S - Ashton Court park run, 20:13. Not great, felt very slow on the up hill, got a bit of go on the way back down. Felt lacking in power, maybe low glycogen from the diet? (65.3/-)
S - Climbing at the Castle. 7 routes up to 6b+. (-/65.8)
General goals:
Manage rehab for next 6 weeks. Avoid doing too much too early.
Improve the asymmetry.
Get enough running fitness to enter a marathon/half next year without injury concern.
Next week:
Running: one intervals session, one long (10km+) run.
One fingerboard session. Deadhangs to avoid sudden loading/unloading from repeaters.
At least 2 core sessions.
Organise a squash match at work.
> Nick Russell; how’s the wrist? What did the physio have say about the 5-pack?
The wrist is making really good progress. Reading Dave Mac's book reminded me that rehab is not a passive process and that sitting on my arse waiting for it to get better wouldn't work. I kept up with the icing and started doing some theraband exercises of just about every wrist action I could think of. Improvements by day 2, almost back to normal now. That said, Dave Mac is also quite clear that 'no pain' != 'normal function' so I'm going to set out a 4-6 week progression back to former climbing intensity. If I write it down in advance, I won't forget.
I haven't actually seen a physio, about the wrist or the asymmetry. Comments from Nina last year concerning general asymmetry (in that case in my shoulders) suggested offset pull ups, side plank, etc. Do the same amount on both sides, working to the failure of the weaker side. That's my general plan now, so I'm making sure all my core sessions consist mainly of asymmetric exercises.
Numbers in brackets are weight (am/pm). I seem to be getting a few readings below 65 already. I'll start posting 5-day moving averages next week now that I've got a week of readings. Saturday pm and Sunday am are missing as I was staying at a friend's house. I looked in 4 of his bathrooms for scales but didn't find any!
M - 6km run, core. (66.9/66.1)
T - Just rehab exercises. Started with the band. (66.1/66.5)
W - 30 min run, intervals, core. (65.8/65.8)
T - Climbing at Cheddar. Nothing above 6b but good to get out on rock. (64.9/65.4)
F - core. (64.8/65.3)
S - Ashton Court park run, 20:13. Not great, felt very slow on the up hill, got a bit of go on the way back down. Felt lacking in power, maybe low glycogen from the diet? (65.3/-)
S - Climbing at the Castle. 7 routes up to 6b+. (-/65.8)
General goals:
Next week:
1
In reply to AJM:
Done some weighted bottom pull-ups and wide grip pull-ups. Leaves me short for the week by some offsets but I need to get to bed and my home setup is shit for them anyway - which I will attempt to rectify.
I also forgot to mention that I hung the little bottom outside edge rails on a bm2k in a half (or slightly beyond) crimp at +5kg this week too. Don't want to go too much higher quite yet but might try to at least do that sort of hang a bit more regularly to help break myself back into using the grip again.
Oh, and I need to manage my diet better. Whilst I don't feel too bad at the minute (compared to how I should based on the scale readouts), I also know that my diet has been terrible the past week or two, my weight is significantly too high and that only some of that can be due to a change in body composition. I'm hoping that the cycling and the conditioning has driven some of the change, but I know that it can't possibly account for all of it.
I need to get back into the habit of recording weight and keeping a track of the moving average. Serious trip tapering can probably wait until after August, but I ought to at least get back into my normal range fairly sharpish.
Done some weighted bottom pull-ups and wide grip pull-ups. Leaves me short for the week by some offsets but I need to get to bed and my home setup is shit for them anyway - which I will attempt to rectify.
I also forgot to mention that I hung the little bottom outside edge rails on a bm2k in a half (or slightly beyond) crimp at +5kg this week too. Don't want to go too much higher quite yet but might try to at least do that sort of hang a bit more regularly to help break myself back into using the grip again.
Oh, and I need to manage my diet better. Whilst I don't feel too bad at the minute (compared to how I should based on the scale readouts), I also know that my diet has been terrible the past week or two, my weight is significantly too high and that only some of that can be due to a change in body composition. I'm hoping that the cycling and the conditioning has driven some of the change, but I know that it can't possibly account for all of it.
I need to get back into the habit of recording weight and keeping a track of the moving average. Serious trip tapering can probably wait until after August, but I ought to at least get back into my normal range fairly sharpish.
Post edited at 23:22
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally. No, managed to avoid cabin fever and had rather a nice couple of days. Apparently there are other things to do apart from climb - bit of a revelation! But Iwas back on Circus Circus by the weekend...
M - 10 mile country walk
T - 6 mile country walk, with a vicious uphill bit! S&C x 3 when we got home.
W - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR, new circuits. Did a dozen from 6a to 6c (hard, hardly a crimp in sight). Tried the 7a but it seems v hard indeed - one of the moves I couldn't work out even on its own, let alone after 30 previous moves.
T - cycle commute. TCA. 6a+ to 6c problems being reset. Tries loads, got up a grand total of 3. Upmteen of them seem to have large pwerful moves up to crimps. Noe I love crimps, but I don't want to be snatching for them!
F - cycle commute for bonus extra morning in work - yippee
S - Cheddar with Curious Yellow. Clipsticked a rope up Circus Circus then we both laid seige to it. Mid height crux I can now do fairly reliably (although getting the left foot up quickly and accurately if worryingly important). Think I've found a way to do the top crux too. Wanted to retry that seq to make sure I'd got it, but the light rain became very very heavy rain to stripping it quick became rather pressing!
S - Cheddar with Curious Yellow. Nameless bay upper tier. Total pig to get to but easy to ab out of. TR on a 7b+ with some really neat moves on it. Got a seq I thought would work but felt far from dialed. Went for an end of day lead anyway, and to my great surprise found I was clipping the chains. 1st route of this grade done in a session. Probably suited me - crimpy start, undercuts to get over a bulge, then big moves to good pockets where it was really important to trust v insubstantial feet.
Then had a totally rubbish night sleep and feel like I've been hit by a truck. I think 2 days of maximum effort is all I can take.
Thanks Ally. No, managed to avoid cabin fever and had rather a nice couple of days. Apparently there are other things to do apart from climb - bit of a revelation! But Iwas back on Circus Circus by the weekend...
M - 10 mile country walk
T - 6 mile country walk, with a vicious uphill bit! S&C x 3 when we got home.
W - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR, new circuits. Did a dozen from 6a to 6c (hard, hardly a crimp in sight). Tried the 7a but it seems v hard indeed - one of the moves I couldn't work out even on its own, let alone after 30 previous moves.
T - cycle commute. TCA. 6a+ to 6c problems being reset. Tries loads, got up a grand total of 3. Upmteen of them seem to have large pwerful moves up to crimps. Noe I love crimps, but I don't want to be snatching for them!
F - cycle commute for bonus extra morning in work - yippee
S - Cheddar with Curious Yellow. Clipsticked a rope up Circus Circus then we both laid seige to it. Mid height crux I can now do fairly reliably (although getting the left foot up quickly and accurately if worryingly important). Think I've found a way to do the top crux too. Wanted to retry that seq to make sure I'd got it, but the light rain became very very heavy rain to stripping it quick became rather pressing!
S - Cheddar with Curious Yellow. Nameless bay upper tier. Total pig to get to but easy to ab out of. TR on a 7b+ with some really neat moves on it. Got a seq I thought would work but felt far from dialed. Went for an end of day lead anyway, and to my great surprise found I was clipping the chains. 1st route of this grade done in a session. Probably suited me - crimpy start, undercuts to get over a bulge, then big moves to good pockets where it was really important to trust v insubstantial feet.
Then had a totally rubbish night sleep and feel like I've been hit by a truck. I think 2 days of maximum effort is all I can take.
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Good week – fingerboard PB, successful RPs, and some big links on the big roof project.
Bad week – picked up two new injuries
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor – crimpy & front on board style too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goals.
- Spanish super routes – Feb 2016 – La Perla, (8b+), La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
LTG (2015):
>8b+ RP options:
- Cry Freedom & Unjustified, Malham.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG.
- need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (Aug & Sept):
- Maintain An-cap
- Increase volume and start getting fit for the red
- Maintain fingerboard sessions without aggravating injuries
- Put time into the 4 projects I’ve bolted. #1 & #2 Orme roof L&R. #3 B&IC headwall; f8a+/b? #4 “Charon”
- 8a+/b’s
- if finger plays ball: Well Done finish, Straight jacket, Waddage & Weedkiller/Chimes.
- if shoulder plays ball, but finger still tweaky: Mecca Traverse (TICK), Mandela (TICK) & Guns in the sky
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Icing and rehab every day for finger, knee, wrist and shoulder
- Controlled fingerboarding; start isolating pocket combos
- Do some core, antag and bicep curls. 6min plank this week. Side plank and Donnelly core exercise.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight
- Do #3, try #4 – FAIL – #3 the moves are harder than I thought and the rest is worse than I imagined!
Last week:
M - late night Fingerboard session. Test on BM2K slot -5mm. New PB, bodyweight -0.5kg tension. Main session (37.5, 37.5, 37.5, +13kg repeaters x4) Shoulder press (3sets, 12x12kg) and 3m40s plank
T - Fingerboard an-cap 10:3 session @ 65% (+20.5kg). 125, 91, 90, 88, 66, 52, 48, 48s. Same start time, but crashed quicker than last week. Then 7:3 aero-cap @ 60% (+14.5kg) 1on/1off. 3x balls, 3x sloper, 2x 20mm, 2x 25mm edge for variation. 2x 3m00s plank (+3kg). 2x 25 side crunchies. 80 press-ups.
W - Planned rest.
T - Tor after work; felt strong warming up. Mecca Traverse, f8b? 1st tie-in – fell off going into undercut. 2nd go 10min later, smashed it. First time making the crux undercut match and completing the post crux deck-out grip-clip; adrenaline rush made me determined not to drop it after this despite some beta fumbles and unplanned cut looses! Poor go at Weedkiller/Chimes afterwards – Weedkiller is soooo hard with my chubby fingers! Lap of Sardine to warm-down.
F - Nuthin’ but a 4min plank.
S - Kilnsey. 3x up in the big roof - slightly damper than last week. Nailed the transition I didn’t do last week, so now it’s time for links. 3rd go; linked crux move, through traverse to big move, then big move through Mandela crux, made knee hurt torqueing into slot. Pooped. Evening indoor skydiving for $hits & giggles.
S - Should have done some training, but got opportunity to go to Devils Gorge. Worked on #3 – disappointing – shunt had convinced me I’d done the crux last week, but no; rope tension had deceived me. 2 RPs on another link-up, which became “Beetroot & Creatine”, f8a. Wrist very sore, a la Nick Russell.
Good week – fingerboard PB, successful RPs, and some big links on the big roof project.
Bad week – picked up two new injuries
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor – crimpy & front on board style too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goals.
- Spanish super routes – Feb 2016 – La Perla, (8b+), La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
LTG (2015):
>8b+ RP options:
- Cry Freedom & Unjustified, Malham.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG.
- need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (Aug & Sept):
- Maintain An-cap
- Increase volume and start getting fit for the red
- Maintain fingerboard sessions without aggravating injuries
- Put time into the 4 projects I’ve bolted. #1 & #2 Orme roof L&R. #3 B&IC headwall; f8a+/b? #4 “Charon”
- 8a+/b’s
- if finger plays ball: Well Done finish, Straight jacket, Waddage & Weedkiller/Chimes.
- if shoulder plays ball, but finger still tweaky: Mecca Traverse (TICK), Mandela (TICK) & Guns in the sky
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Icing and rehab every day for finger, knee, wrist and shoulder
- Controlled fingerboarding; start isolating pocket combos
- Do some core, antag and bicep curls. 6min plank this week. Side plank and Donnelly core exercise.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight
- Do #3, try #4 – FAIL – #3 the moves are harder than I thought and the rest is worse than I imagined!
Last week:
M - late night Fingerboard session. Test on BM2K slot -5mm. New PB, bodyweight -0.5kg tension. Main session (37.5, 37.5, 37.5, +13kg repeaters x4) Shoulder press (3sets, 12x12kg) and 3m40s plank
T - Fingerboard an-cap 10:3 session @ 65% (+20.5kg). 125, 91, 90, 88, 66, 52, 48, 48s. Same start time, but crashed quicker than last week. Then 7:3 aero-cap @ 60% (+14.5kg) 1on/1off. 3x balls, 3x sloper, 2x 20mm, 2x 25mm edge for variation. 2x 3m00s plank (+3kg). 2x 25 side crunchies. 80 press-ups.
W - Planned rest.
T - Tor after work; felt strong warming up. Mecca Traverse, f8b? 1st tie-in – fell off going into undercut. 2nd go 10min later, smashed it. First time making the crux undercut match and completing the post crux deck-out grip-clip; adrenaline rush made me determined not to drop it after this despite some beta fumbles and unplanned cut looses! Poor go at Weedkiller/Chimes afterwards – Weedkiller is soooo hard with my chubby fingers! Lap of Sardine to warm-down.
F - Nuthin’ but a 4min plank.
S - Kilnsey. 3x up in the big roof - slightly damper than last week. Nailed the transition I didn’t do last week, so now it’s time for links. 3rd go; linked crux move, through traverse to big move, then big move through Mandela crux, made knee hurt torqueing into slot. Pooped. Evening indoor skydiving for $hits & giggles.
S - Should have done some training, but got opportunity to go to Devils Gorge. Worked on #3 – disappointing – shunt had convinced me I’d done the crux last week, but no; rope tension had deceived me. 2 RPs on another link-up, which became “Beetroot & Creatine”, f8a. Wrist very sore, a la Nick Russell.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally,
Very little to report this week, one core exercise ball session on Tuesday and then as I was still getting random bouts of elbow worsening with no apparent reason, I decided to stop doing everything, so no stretches, no testing of the limits by gripping, reaching, nothing. Absolute minimum use whenever possible and no rehab exercises.
I think the problem is so bad that i need some kind of baseline recovery before I can start working the muscles, it's been around 6 days now and the elbows have been slowly improving, but most encouragingly, it's been predictable. I had a little slip when showing my wife some gym ball exercises on Saturday and it made the right elbow a little sore for a day or so, but at least I knew what had caused it. Clearly one of the 'rehab' exercises I had been doing was not helping.
Consultant tomorrow so another day of watching my wife strip wallpaper (!) And we will see what he says.
Feeling better about the whole thing again now that the elbows actually seem to be behaving predictably, let's just hope this can be the start of a decent recovery! I've had Dave Macs injury book since the day of release but stupidly never returned to the elbow chapter after getting the tennis elbow, one of the first things he says is when tennis/golfers elbow flares up, keep climbing moderately but stop all manual tasks. I did exactly the opposite, no wonder things went so wrong! Should have re-read that chapter 2 months ago...
Cheers Ally,
Very little to report this week, one core exercise ball session on Tuesday and then as I was still getting random bouts of elbow worsening with no apparent reason, I decided to stop doing everything, so no stretches, no testing of the limits by gripping, reaching, nothing. Absolute minimum use whenever possible and no rehab exercises.
I think the problem is so bad that i need some kind of baseline recovery before I can start working the muscles, it's been around 6 days now and the elbows have been slowly improving, but most encouragingly, it's been predictable. I had a little slip when showing my wife some gym ball exercises on Saturday and it made the right elbow a little sore for a day or so, but at least I knew what had caused it. Clearly one of the 'rehab' exercises I had been doing was not helping.
Consultant tomorrow so another day of watching my wife strip wallpaper (!) And we will see what he says.
Feeling better about the whole thing again now that the elbows actually seem to be behaving predictably, let's just hope this can be the start of a decent recovery! I've had Dave Macs injury book since the day of release but stupidly never returned to the elbow chapter after getting the tennis elbow, one of the first things he says is when tennis/golfers elbow flares up, keep climbing moderately but stop all manual tasks. I did exactly the opposite, no wonder things went so wrong! Should have re-read that chapter 2 months ago...
In reply to Dandan:
I was climbing with a pair of physios on Saturday when my knee started hurting from repeated torquing in heel/toe cams. I immediately asked them the best exercises for rehab thinking i'd be proactive in fixing it.
Totally wrong approach for an acute injury - 4 days rest for me - let the inflammation process to it's stuff before doing any exercises.
I know your circumstances are different, but taking some absolute rest should help in the initial stages.
Good luck with the consultant tomorrow; hopefully you can queue jump by paying for the consultation and then going back into the NHS system to get free treatment?
I was climbing with a pair of physios on Saturday when my knee started hurting from repeated torquing in heel/toe cams. I immediately asked them the best exercises for rehab thinking i'd be proactive in fixing it.
Totally wrong approach for an acute injury - 4 days rest for me - let the inflammation process to it's stuff before doing any exercises.
I know your circumstances are different, but taking some absolute rest should help in the initial stages.
Good luck with the consultant tomorrow; hopefully you can queue jump by paying for the consultation and then going back into the NHS system to get free treatment?
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Good job on Mecca Traverse!
Re: wrist, if you manage it better than me in the early stages it shouldn't bother you for as long
Good job on Mecca Traverse!
Re: wrist, if you manage it better than me in the early stages it shouldn't bother you for as long
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the thread Ally!
what did you learn from the video self-analysis? I learned that I think I climb better than I thought! That, and - I swing a bit on steep overhangs (maybe from trying to stay relaxed with straight arms?), I need to give more effort to prediction as there's lots of corrections (but at least I am correcting now not giving up or falling off) and last of all the hardest climbs looked easier than the easiest. TBH I'm still viewing the vids and trying to find more stuff.
Anyway here goes festival week!
Mon - 2 mile run
Tues - 2 mile run + Suspension trainer for 30 mins
weds - 2 mile run plus eve ropes, just TR as there were new routes, tried really hard but was sharing my belayer so down time too. I think I got a solid 40-60 min climbing.
Thurs - 2 mile run
Fri - 30 mins suspension trainer and then festival (Yay!!)
Sat - danced lots. I can also add to my 'What climbing has done for me' list. When my little 'un was 3 I danced with her on my shoulders at the same festival. Loved it but was wrecked from jigging with her also bouncing up and down, I said it would be the last year I'd ever do it. Well, 4 yrs on I had my 7yr old back on my shoulders and danced a good chunk of the set with her up there! I really am fitter and stronger than I've been for years.
Sun - Bouldering; really rubbish, probably one of the few climbing sessions I can honestly say had no high points and lots of lows. Maybe drinking the past 2 days did it? I hadn't got drunk but had more than I do usually (and ate WAY too many olives, candy floss, lamb wraps....).
I missed my 10 mile per week target running, missed the last of the 3 suspension sessions per week, didn't climb well. I haven't done anything today and I'm contemplating taking a bit of a break.
Thanks for the thread Ally!
what did you learn from the video self-analysis? I learned that I think I climb better than I thought! That, and - I swing a bit on steep overhangs (maybe from trying to stay relaxed with straight arms?), I need to give more effort to prediction as there's lots of corrections (but at least I am correcting now not giving up or falling off) and last of all the hardest climbs looked easier than the easiest. TBH I'm still viewing the vids and trying to find more stuff.
Anyway here goes festival week!
Mon - 2 mile run
Tues - 2 mile run + Suspension trainer for 30 mins
weds - 2 mile run plus eve ropes, just TR as there were new routes, tried really hard but was sharing my belayer so down time too. I think I got a solid 40-60 min climbing.
Thurs - 2 mile run
Fri - 30 mins suspension trainer and then festival (Yay!!)
Sat - danced lots. I can also add to my 'What climbing has done for me' list. When my little 'un was 3 I danced with her on my shoulders at the same festival. Loved it but was wrecked from jigging with her also bouncing up and down, I said it would be the last year I'd ever do it. Well, 4 yrs on I had my 7yr old back on my shoulders and danced a good chunk of the set with her up there! I really am fitter and stronger than I've been for years.
Sun - Bouldering; really rubbish, probably one of the few climbing sessions I can honestly say had no high points and lots of lows. Maybe drinking the past 2 days did it? I hadn't got drunk but had more than I do usually (and ate WAY too many olives, candy floss, lamb wraps....).
I missed my 10 mile per week target running, missed the last of the 3 suspension sessions per week, didn't climb well. I haven't done anything today and I'm contemplating taking a bit of a break.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly, Ally - good work on the projects, sounds well gnarly!
Training Diary WC 27/7/15
Shedding!
Monday – Strava Training Plan (STP) run 4: - Easy 45 mins ish. Hilly, off road 9.6km in 53:57 at 5:35m/km pace. No poke at all – decided not to dig today and had a rest day/ bought materials for the shed base/garden.
Tuesday – Downloaded the Beastmaker app. Had an early morning pop at the BM2000 F6C program. Managed most of the first round (foot on for ‘front two’) but only did dead hangs. Remembered to ‘Frenchie it up’ for the second round but performed much worse. Didn’t do the third round as had a day of digging ahead – so about 40% success overall.
Wednesday – Digging.
Thursday – Digging.
Friday – Digging.
Saturday – Pouring a concrete slab with me mates.
Sunday – Shedding/digging rest day. TCA with Tom – wasn’t expecting much after a busy, physical week. Had a good stab at a fair few of the 6A-6C circuit (green ‘uns). Went OK, actually. Onsighted and flashed a few (inc. a double dyno to compression on slopers), got a few and failed gloriously on a few. Peaked early and then form slid gently for the rest of the 2 ½ hour session. Definitely better on crimps – this confirmed my goals for training – more sloper action needed! Finished with 30 mins 1 on/ 1 off on the 10’ circuit board. Started on a 6b+ but didn’t do more than 26 moves so dropped down to a 6a – bucket-tastic but still got a decent pump on and then on into that general tiredness. Made myself keep going when the forearms were boxed though, which was good. Managed to stay on for about 40 moves each rep (1½ to 2 mins). That’s now my marker to improve my fitness from.
Weight = must be still be portly as the scales are still broken.
Will be back on it next week as the shed base is done, just a load of 80kg oak sleepers to pop in to create retaining walls to go over the next couple of weeks - steady pottering really.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly, Ally - good work on the projects, sounds well gnarly!
Training Diary WC 27/7/15
Shedding!
Monday – Strava Training Plan (STP) run 4: - Easy 45 mins ish. Hilly, off road 9.6km in 53:57 at 5:35m/km pace. No poke at all – decided not to dig today and had a rest day/ bought materials for the shed base/garden.
Tuesday – Downloaded the Beastmaker app. Had an early morning pop at the BM2000 F6C program. Managed most of the first round (foot on for ‘front two’) but only did dead hangs. Remembered to ‘Frenchie it up’ for the second round but performed much worse. Didn’t do the third round as had a day of digging ahead – so about 40% success overall.
Wednesday – Digging.
Thursday – Digging.
Friday – Digging.
Saturday – Pouring a concrete slab with me mates.
Sunday – Shedding/digging rest day. TCA with Tom – wasn’t expecting much after a busy, physical week. Had a good stab at a fair few of the 6A-6C circuit (green ‘uns). Went OK, actually. Onsighted and flashed a few (inc. a double dyno to compression on slopers), got a few and failed gloriously on a few. Peaked early and then form slid gently for the rest of the 2 ½ hour session. Definitely better on crimps – this confirmed my goals for training – more sloper action needed! Finished with 30 mins 1 on/ 1 off on the 10’ circuit board. Started on a 6b+ but didn’t do more than 26 moves so dropped down to a 6a – bucket-tastic but still got a decent pump on and then on into that general tiredness. Made myself keep going when the forearms were boxed though, which was good. Managed to stay on for about 40 moves each rep (1½ to 2 mins). That’s now my marker to improve my fitness from.
Weight = must be still be portly as the scales are still broken.
Will be back on it next week as the shed base is done, just a load of 80kg oak sleepers to pop in to create retaining walls to go over the next couple of weeks - steady pottering really.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally - nice job on Mecca Traverse. How's the plank work going?
All this talk of resting injuries... I'm totally going to have to ignore it Salbit South Ridge tomorrow, flying today and yesterday managed to sprain what seems to be an internal abdominal muscle. Diclofenic didn't touch it other than maybe made the drive back from Portland bearable. I normally respond pretty well to two or three days rest but that's not gonna happen and it'll be a case of hoping all the laybacking doesn't take it's toll and exact a nasty price.
Mon - Worked late.
Tue - Worked late.
Wed - Pinnacle systems board. Good session. Progress on lots of things, mainly down to better footwork and accuracy of momentum.
Thu - Worked late.
Fri - Drove to Portland.
Sat - The Cuttings. Climbed like a fish out of water. Totally zapped from all the working late and the sunshine. No idea what I even got on.
Sun - The Cuttings. Belayed, too tired to be arsed if I'm honest. Got on Consomme, which is about as tough on my wrist as it goes and got to the top with a couple of sits. I think I'd have to be climbing 9a and weigh 8st to have a chance on this.
Mon - Blacknor Central. Got on a 6b I'd been on with AJM a while back and managed to get to my crux without pulling hard at all, totally not warmed up in other words. Lots of cloud, everything was greasy. Went back up, went through that bit with new beta that needed no effort, sat and sorted out the next hard move and then pulled hard on an undercut and pop - made the move, muscle pulled. Ignored it (prat) and got to the top. Tried the move again and nailed it but lowered after. Rather sore. Mates did Medusa Falls and To Wish the Impossible - had to pull on to the latter as it looked awesome and pottered up the slab fine and then the muscle sprain did for me.
Feeling right battered at the moment but this time tomorrow we should be on Salbit - stomping up from the valley rather than staying in the hut. Can't wait if I'm honest, just a little concerned I could make the recovery far worse but there's nothing like an old fool and I'm 50 in a months time.
Portland was a mish mash of ups and downs - work has caned me out and I think a few days of chilling would have been better but it was good to get out with Eric (7a flash just weeks after 8 sessions of chemo) and his lad Dan. He's a bit useful, having climbed Mecca without kneebar and I gleaned a few pointers from him. He's training to be an Occupational Therapist and is properly into his yoga, which meant he quickly sussed out the balance issues the wrist causes due to the rotation of my shoulder. He's also got about the same reach as me, which makes a change and it was nice to see how he moved to gain holds that my other mates would lank.
Other than the injury, feel like I'm on the right track at the moment.
Thanks Ally - nice job on Mecca Traverse. How's the plank work going?
All this talk of resting injuries... I'm totally going to have to ignore it Salbit South Ridge tomorrow, flying today and yesterday managed to sprain what seems to be an internal abdominal muscle. Diclofenic didn't touch it other than maybe made the drive back from Portland bearable. I normally respond pretty well to two or three days rest but that's not gonna happen and it'll be a case of hoping all the laybacking doesn't take it's toll and exact a nasty price.
Mon - Worked late.
Tue - Worked late.
Wed - Pinnacle systems board. Good session. Progress on lots of things, mainly down to better footwork and accuracy of momentum.
Thu - Worked late.
Fri - Drove to Portland.
Sat - The Cuttings. Climbed like a fish out of water. Totally zapped from all the working late and the sunshine. No idea what I even got on.
Sun - The Cuttings. Belayed, too tired to be arsed if I'm honest. Got on Consomme, which is about as tough on my wrist as it goes and got to the top with a couple of sits. I think I'd have to be climbing 9a and weigh 8st to have a chance on this.
Mon - Blacknor Central. Got on a 6b I'd been on with AJM a while back and managed to get to my crux without pulling hard at all, totally not warmed up in other words. Lots of cloud, everything was greasy. Went back up, went through that bit with new beta that needed no effort, sat and sorted out the next hard move and then pulled hard on an undercut and pop - made the move, muscle pulled. Ignored it (prat) and got to the top. Tried the move again and nailed it but lowered after. Rather sore. Mates did Medusa Falls and To Wish the Impossible - had to pull on to the latter as it looked awesome and pottered up the slab fine and then the muscle sprain did for me.
Feeling right battered at the moment but this time tomorrow we should be on Salbit - stomping up from the valley rather than staying in the hut. Can't wait if I'm honest, just a little concerned I could make the recovery far worse but there's nothing like an old fool and I'm 50 in a months time.
Portland was a mish mash of ups and downs - work has caned me out and I think a few days of chilling would have been better but it was good to get out with Eric (7a flash just weeks after 8 sessions of chemo) and his lad Dan. He's a bit useful, having climbed Mecca without kneebar and I gleaned a few pointers from him. He's training to be an Occupational Therapist and is properly into his yoga, which meant he quickly sussed out the balance issues the wrist causes due to the rotation of my shoulder. He's also got about the same reach as me, which makes a change and it was nice to see how he moved to gain holds that my other mates would lank.
Other than the injury, feel like I'm on the right track at the moment.
1
1
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy - Weather looks great for the next week and I'm going with a mate who's soloed it in an hour... what can go wrong!? Haha. I guess the summit could topple over when I'm on it!
Cheers Andy - Weather looks great for the next week and I'm going with a mate who's soloed it in an hour... what can go wrong!? Haha. I guess the summit could topple over when I'm on it!
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I've been jabbed!
I went to see the consultant this afternoon, amazingly it turned out that he is a climber too, so I was happy to agree when he recommended that my best immediate course of action was to have steroid injections.
He offered to do it there and then which is more than I could possibly have hoped for, so i've had both elbows jabbed!
He said they will be extra sore for a couple of days, the left one is already throbbing, then give it a week before getting back to some gentle exercise. His confidence that I could just crack on with climbing in a week's time and be well prepared for my Kaly trip in a little under 6 weeks was really encouraging.
I'm going to take it super steady, probably wait a little longer than he said before I try to climb, and I will most likely only do AeroCap and AeroPow before my holiday (if I can feel improvement) to bring my stamina up, to hell with the strength, it's not worth the risk.
I'm really pleased, the consultation couldn't really have gone any better in my mind, i just desperately hope that this works...
I've been jabbed!
I went to see the consultant this afternoon, amazingly it turned out that he is a climber too, so I was happy to agree when he recommended that my best immediate course of action was to have steroid injections.
He offered to do it there and then which is more than I could possibly have hoped for, so i've had both elbows jabbed!
He said they will be extra sore for a couple of days, the left one is already throbbing, then give it a week before getting back to some gentle exercise. His confidence that I could just crack on with climbing in a week's time and be well prepared for my Kaly trip in a little under 6 weeks was really encouraging.
I'm going to take it super steady, probably wait a little longer than he said before I try to climb, and I will most likely only do AeroCap and AeroPow before my holiday (if I can feel improvement) to bring my stamina up, to hell with the strength, it's not worth the risk.
I'm really pleased, the consultation couldn't really have gone any better in my mind, i just desperately hope that this works...
7
In reply to Dandan:
Great news Dan, lets face it Kaly is fun even if you are climbing like a plank so no need to cane the training before going out there
Great news Dan, lets face it Kaly is fun even if you are climbing like a plank so no need to cane the training before going out there
1
1
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers for doing the thread Ally, missed last week so you get two for the price of one this time....
Week 436
M: felt knackered from jet lag, pm - 30mins easy 4M
Tu: am - 15mins jog to work + strides
W: pm - was supposed to travel after work for a 1500m race but got stuck at work and couldn't get out in time so had to cancel - arse! Instead got home and did a slightly angry 8M in 52:34 - felt a bit less frustrated afterwards
Th: am - run to work 16mins, pm - run home ~7M in 46:19
F: am - run to work 16min, pm - run home 16mins
Sa: am - grass session: 2x2min (1min jog recovery), 5min (3min jog recovery), 4x1min (45 sec recovery), 3min jog then 5min hard, 1min jog then 45 secs flat out. Had to write that on my hand in order to remember it all but it went pretty well and held back a bit due to race next week. ~9M
Su: 45min steady with the wife ~6M
Total 42M , annoyed to miss the race but the extra rest probably did me good. Right knee sore this week so need to watch that
Week 437
M: am - run to work 16mins, pm - run home 16mins
Tu: am - walked to work, pm - run home 15mins + strides
W: Watford Open Meeting 3000. Pretty good conditions (bit cold and breezy) and a large field (35!) but lots of talent including three GB U23's so the race was going to be quick! Got out ok and settled in nicely almost at the back, first few laps 68/69 seconds and although it felt a bit fast hung in. After 4 laps the group I was in started to slow so went to the front and pushed on. The last 2.5laps I felt better and had lots of people in front to pick off. Finished in 8:39.02 for about 18th which was a solid run, happy with that. 6/7M total. Race was won in 8:05 !
Th: Had planned an easy day but got called up last minute to fill in for the club in a local relay which is literally on my doorstep. Knew I wasn't going to get much done on Sat/Sun so said yes. am - jog to work 15mins, pm - jog home then warmed up for the relay which was on road and 5 legs of 3K. I was on last leg so that if, fingers crossed, we were winning I could take it a bit easier. This went out of the window when my mate came around the final corner with the second placed team 10metres behind! Set off steady and after 1K hit it hard going up a hill and running hard off the top. Then just got my head down and in the end we won comfortably by about 50 seconds. My time was 9:05 for the 3k and 3rd fastest overall (4 seconds off being quickest, darn!) but I enjoyed it and no harm done. 8M
F: am - run to work 4/5M in 31:02 - tired!
Sa: Stag-Do (did play Zorb football which raised the heart rate and was good fun)
Su: Stag-Do - hungover and tired. Decided against a run when I got home in favor of sleep!
Total 27M - pleased with Weds race as had it gone badly I was prepared to sack off the track season. Will now give it a go over a couple more races with the aim f enjoying them and forgetting about times in order to take the pressure off. Thank goodness I don't go out much - there is no way I could deal with the weekend I had more than twice a year!
Cheers for doing the thread Ally, missed last week so you get two for the price of one this time....
Week 436
M: felt knackered from jet lag, pm - 30mins easy 4M
Tu: am - 15mins jog to work + strides
W: pm - was supposed to travel after work for a 1500m race but got stuck at work and couldn't get out in time so had to cancel - arse! Instead got home and did a slightly angry 8M in 52:34 - felt a bit less frustrated afterwards
Th: am - run to work 16mins, pm - run home ~7M in 46:19
F: am - run to work 16min, pm - run home 16mins
Sa: am - grass session: 2x2min (1min jog recovery), 5min (3min jog recovery), 4x1min (45 sec recovery), 3min jog then 5min hard, 1min jog then 45 secs flat out. Had to write that on my hand in order to remember it all but it went pretty well and held back a bit due to race next week. ~9M
Su: 45min steady with the wife ~6M
Total 42M , annoyed to miss the race but the extra rest probably did me good. Right knee sore this week so need to watch that
Week 437
M: am - run to work 16mins, pm - run home 16mins
Tu: am - walked to work, pm - run home 15mins + strides
W: Watford Open Meeting 3000. Pretty good conditions (bit cold and breezy) and a large field (35!) but lots of talent including three GB U23's so the race was going to be quick! Got out ok and settled in nicely almost at the back, first few laps 68/69 seconds and although it felt a bit fast hung in. After 4 laps the group I was in started to slow so went to the front and pushed on. The last 2.5laps I felt better and had lots of people in front to pick off. Finished in 8:39.02 for about 18th which was a solid run, happy with that. 6/7M total. Race was won in 8:05 !
Th: Had planned an easy day but got called up last minute to fill in for the club in a local relay which is literally on my doorstep. Knew I wasn't going to get much done on Sat/Sun so said yes. am - jog to work 15mins, pm - jog home then warmed up for the relay which was on road and 5 legs of 3K. I was on last leg so that if, fingers crossed, we were winning I could take it a bit easier. This went out of the window when my mate came around the final corner with the second placed team 10metres behind! Set off steady and after 1K hit it hard going up a hill and running hard off the top. Then just got my head down and in the end we won comfortably by about 50 seconds. My time was 9:05 for the 3k and 3rd fastest overall (4 seconds off being quickest, darn!) but I enjoyed it and no harm done. 8M
F: am - run to work 4/5M in 31:02 - tired!
Sa: Stag-Do (did play Zorb football which raised the heart rate and was good fun)
Su: Stag-Do - hungover and tired. Decided against a run when I got home in favor of sleep!
Total 27M - pleased with Weds race as had it gone badly I was prepared to sack off the track season. Will now give it a go over a couple more races with the aim f enjoying them and forgetting about times in order to take the pressure off. Thank goodness I don't go out much - there is no way I could deal with the weekend I had more than twice a year!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for doing the stats. Not got back to Navigation yet, which is a pity.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 11st 12lbs (tick!)
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 11st 13lbs (lost the holibob weight)
M - Rest
T - Core
W - Sport at Sirhowy
T - Core
F - Core
S - DIY
S - Trad at Three Cliffs
Month avg - 61%
Year avg - 68%
Sirhowy was a good crag, spent a bit of time on a 6b+ which was a really good route. One of the best sandstone routes I've done so far. Then went out with a couple of mates on Sunday with the aim of ticking Scavenger. Which I managed. Nice to finally get it done. I was a lot quicker on it as there's less resting places on it as it's a slab. Ran the top out a little bit, but there's acres of good gear and I had sunk a lot in by that point. It largely went well, especially as I'm not normally one to seek out a slab. Heading up to North Wales next weekend, so really looking forward to that.
Weight is holding ok and I'm just about keeping up with the exercise averages. So going well in general. Been a good week.
Thanks for doing the stats. Not got back to Navigation yet, which is a pity.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 11st 12lbs (tick!)
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 11st 13lbs (lost the holibob weight)
M - Rest
T - Core
W - Sport at Sirhowy
T - Core
F - Core
S - DIY
S - Trad at Three Cliffs
Month avg - 61%
Year avg - 68%
Sirhowy was a good crag, spent a bit of time on a 6b+ which was a really good route. One of the best sandstone routes I've done so far. Then went out with a couple of mates on Sunday with the aim of ticking Scavenger. Which I managed. Nice to finally get it done. I was a lot quicker on it as there's less resting places on it as it's a slab. Ran the top out a little bit, but there's acres of good gear and I had sunk a lot in by that point. It largely went well, especially as I'm not normally one to seek out a slab. Heading up to North Wales next weekend, so really looking forward to that.
Weight is holding ok and I'm just about keeping up with the exercise averages. So going well in general. Been a good week.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hi all,
Minor hijack, which I may repeat on Sunday.
Used to post on FC, and know that the people on here may be interested...
Have some space on a Lundy trip which I'm trying to fill. The group is low ability grade wise (mostly sub E1). Myself being the most ambitious leader. You can check my profile for info.
5-12 sept this year. Accommodation is in the barn.
If anyone is interested, please get in touch with me.
Thanks.
Kevin.
Hi all,
Minor hijack, which I may repeat on Sunday.
Used to post on FC, and know that the people on here may be interested...
Have some space on a Lundy trip which I'm trying to fill. The group is low ability grade wise (mostly sub E1). Myself being the most ambitious leader. You can check my profile for info.
5-12 sept this year. Accommodation is in the barn.
If anyone is interested, please get in touch with me.
Thanks.
Kevin.
Post edited at 12:06
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally - a short holiday has done wonders for my iron levels and comedy tan marks, though has scuppered training slightly!
M - Lead Big Rock
T - antagonists
W - Lead Big Rock. Submitted leading ladder scorecard on 11/15. Another session and would definitely have got the 7a+ but not bad for 2 sessions
T - trains all day to France - unrestful rest day
F - rest. Pool lounging and eating
S - rest. Ditto.
S - Sport Le Breuil. New area but thankfully already has a crag moderator for once! Really hot so managed 7 routes before admitting defeat and heading back to the pool
Thanks Ally - a short holiday has done wonders for my iron levels and comedy tan marks, though has scuppered training slightly!
M - Lead Big Rock
T - antagonists
W - Lead Big Rock. Submitted leading ladder scorecard on 11/15. Another session and would definitely have got the 7a+ but not bad for 2 sessions
T - trains all day to France - unrestful rest day
F - rest. Pool lounging and eating
S - rest. Ditto.
S - Sport Le Breuil. New area but thankfully already has a crag moderator for once! Really hot so managed 7 routes before admitting defeat and heading back to the pool
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