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Sorry it's a day late - hope you've all been making use of the long weekend?
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=623052
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: BIFF! http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-biff-2015
Fitclubber of the week award – Hms – for turning aspirational grades into nonchalant RP ticks.
alexm198; productive week climbing pointy spires – shame La Meije didn’t deliver the goods. Id you do your circuit session?
Biscuit; watch the EpicTV series with Shauna – her coach lets her have a fun session every week – why not you too?
Nick Russell; rehab going as planned/hoped for?
Mutl3y; great form at the Works, poor form with prioritising garage clear-out over time out on the grit! Hitting your sub-63kg goal?
Hms; casually mentioning 7b+/c RP as if it’s nothing; time to consider setting the bar high for Chulilla. 7c in a day? El Ramallar RP???
Joughton; Antags and core are always a good idea to balance out the typical climber physique. If you’re not tempted by the Hobby newbie, I have a list of >100 potential new routes. I’m sure I could point you at a more suitable gap?
AJM; thanks for pointing out my geographical illiteracy! Stick with the aero-power training – feeling battered is par for the course; you’ll suddenly realise you’ve gotten fit when you can do the same circuits with ease that were desperately pumpy on first acquaintance.
Humperdink; 2-day hangover whoopsie! One last week before some well-deserved rest and you can indulge again?
Planetmarshall; back fixed this week? Have a read of http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26231.0.html for fatneck’s entertaining way to put your back out…
Tyler; I share your feeling of it all being downhill from here with regards to Yorkshire lime season. Will’s tooth decay induced weight loss approach to climbing 8c is an inspiration to us all. Not being in the slightest bit competitive with Will; I’m massively psyched to get strong and do 8c next year.
Mattrm; HVS is the work of satan; so many sandbags and grizzly jamming horrors abound at the grade. E1 tends to be a much more honest grade (VS warm-ups, then straight to E1 – you’ll be reet!)
Dandan82; What did you take home form the route setting? I hope you found it insightful to watch the different solutions to your problems? Maybe even learnt a thing or two about using your feet & body more and lessening the load on your poor elbows?
mrchewy; van progress?
Exile; nice lot of low intensity/high volume base phase. More of the same this week?
Ally Smith; be patient (and whilst that is a near impossibility – beast the core and do more ring finger rehab)
Just Tintin; did you suss a plan for the tri briefing/comp conundrum?
Joyce; big week in the hills. You must be top the Strava ranking for digging, no?
0.5viking; inspired by the World Cup? Great to hear you volunteered your time to belay the kids
Absentees: All present and correct.
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=623052
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: BIFF! http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-biff-2015
Fitclubber of the week award – Hms – for turning aspirational grades into nonchalant RP ticks.
alexm198; productive week climbing pointy spires – shame La Meije didn’t deliver the goods. Id you do your circuit session?
Biscuit; watch the EpicTV series with Shauna – her coach lets her have a fun session every week – why not you too?
Nick Russell; rehab going as planned/hoped for?
Mutl3y; great form at the Works, poor form with prioritising garage clear-out over time out on the grit! Hitting your sub-63kg goal?
Hms; casually mentioning 7b+/c RP as if it’s nothing; time to consider setting the bar high for Chulilla. 7c in a day? El Ramallar RP???
Joughton; Antags and core are always a good idea to balance out the typical climber physique. If you’re not tempted by the Hobby newbie, I have a list of >100 potential new routes. I’m sure I could point you at a more suitable gap?
AJM; thanks for pointing out my geographical illiteracy! Stick with the aero-power training – feeling battered is par for the course; you’ll suddenly realise you’ve gotten fit when you can do the same circuits with ease that were desperately pumpy on first acquaintance.
Humperdink; 2-day hangover whoopsie! One last week before some well-deserved rest and you can indulge again?
Planetmarshall; back fixed this week? Have a read of http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26231.0.html for fatneck’s entertaining way to put your back out…
Tyler; I share your feeling of it all being downhill from here with regards to Yorkshire lime season. Will’s tooth decay induced weight loss approach to climbing 8c is an inspiration to us all. Not being in the slightest bit competitive with Will; I’m massively psyched to get strong and do 8c next year.
Mattrm; HVS is the work of satan; so many sandbags and grizzly jamming horrors abound at the grade. E1 tends to be a much more honest grade (VS warm-ups, then straight to E1 – you’ll be reet!)
Dandan82; What did you take home form the route setting? I hope you found it insightful to watch the different solutions to your problems? Maybe even learnt a thing or two about using your feet & body more and lessening the load on your poor elbows?
mrchewy; van progress?
Exile; nice lot of low intensity/high volume base phase. More of the same this week?
Ally Smith; be patient (and whilst that is a near impossibility – beast the core and do more ring finger rehab)
Just Tintin; did you suss a plan for the tri briefing/comp conundrum?
Joyce; big week in the hills. You must be top the Strava ranking for digging, no?
0.5viking; inspired by the World Cup? Great to hear you volunteered your time to belay the kids
Absentees: All present and correct.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the stats Ally. Will have a further browse of the Chulilla topos then!
M - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, training session with Ben. Didn't manage to get the timing quite right for the routes I/he wanted me to do - you know the scenario, only 1 other pair of climbers and guess where they end up going. Had a serious talk about BHAGs though and what I need to do to achieve mine.
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, bouldering, hard circuits, system board. Trying more explosive moves.
W - cycle commute. TCA. They had just reset the V2-V4 circuit. Did all but 3. Of those 1 should go, 1 I have no idea what-so-ever how to do the final move, 1 I can't get off the ground. Need to try harder stuff.
T - cycle commute.
F - Cheddar with D2. Dogged rope up Circus circus, worked the top but then heavens opened so lowered off. Waited it out then managed 3 lead attempts. Best is still ground to B3, B3-B5, scrabble in groove. It is getting much smoother, the place I'm coming off around B3 will go, it's the groove that is still troubling. Think I have made more progress as to what to do - hotch LH higher cos then I can get leverage from RF.
S - Armistice with D1. She tried a 7a+, I worked a 7b+. They conveniently had the same lower-off so we just swapped ends of the rope. I got mine clean on TR accidentally because I could just keep going. The problem on lead is going to be how to get in B2 as I could find no stable position and there's a ledge below. Possibly taking a small pad might be the answer. Lots of mosquitoes - got bitten on my hands, grr.
S - damp, horrid, S&C x 3.
Nearly forgot to mention the BHAG. Suppose I should put it down, although feel rather nervous about doing so. It's to get 8a before I'm 50. Although that might stretch to before I cease being 50 depending on the progress!
Thanks for the stats Ally. Will have a further browse of the Chulilla topos then!
M - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, training session with Ben. Didn't manage to get the timing quite right for the routes I/he wanted me to do - you know the scenario, only 1 other pair of climbers and guess where they end up going. Had a serious talk about BHAGs though and what I need to do to achieve mine.
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, bouldering, hard circuits, system board. Trying more explosive moves.
W - cycle commute. TCA. They had just reset the V2-V4 circuit. Did all but 3. Of those 1 should go, 1 I have no idea what-so-ever how to do the final move, 1 I can't get off the ground. Need to try harder stuff.
T - cycle commute.
F - Cheddar with D2. Dogged rope up Circus circus, worked the top but then heavens opened so lowered off. Waited it out then managed 3 lead attempts. Best is still ground to B3, B3-B5, scrabble in groove. It is getting much smoother, the place I'm coming off around B3 will go, it's the groove that is still troubling. Think I have made more progress as to what to do - hotch LH higher cos then I can get leverage from RF.
S - Armistice with D1. She tried a 7a+, I worked a 7b+. They conveniently had the same lower-off so we just swapped ends of the rope. I got mine clean on TR accidentally because I could just keep going. The problem on lead is going to be how to get in B2 as I could find no stable position and there's a ledge below. Possibly taking a small pad might be the answer. Lots of mosquitoes - got bitten on my hands, grr.
S - damp, horrid, S&C x 3.
Nearly forgot to mention the BHAG. Suppose I should put it down, although feel rather nervous about doing so. It's to get 8a before I'm 50. Although that might stretch to before I cease being 50 depending on the progress!
Post edited at 09:43
2
In reply to Ally Smith: Hi, going to throw my hat in the ring.
Bit of background-came back to climbing after long break and poddled around getting to 6b with odd 6b+. Last year after winter of regular visits to wall got one 7a+, 5 7a's and lots of 6c/+s including in Spain. Probably a bit stronger but also I think my attitude changed and I was trying that bit harder. Ended up having a bit of a break at beginning of 2015 and almost immediately hurt shoulder and elbow on coming back. These are now completely pain free, though still working on them. This year not so hot but a couple of quick ascents of 6c's and one 7a. Been lots of changes in personal life and just beginning to look like I can get out and climb more regularly again.
Goals
Rest of the year-consolidate 7a/tick some of the longer 6c/+'s at Portland.
Winter-actually have a focussed training programme (well plan targeting main energy systems at least)
2016-7b/+?
I'm 53 now and just starting a professional training which will be finished in 3 1/2 years-I would like to have a dirt bag euro trip in either summer 2017 or when I finish-need a big hairy goal for that but not sure what right now.
Last week-pretty knackered by weather but had 3xTCA visits and have ticked all the yellows (F6A) and probably two thirds of new blues V2-V4. On other days have been doing rehab and basic core exercises.
Based in Bath so if any local fit clubbers looking for partners please get in touch.
Good to be back
Rich
Bit of background-came back to climbing after long break and poddled around getting to 6b with odd 6b+. Last year after winter of regular visits to wall got one 7a+, 5 7a's and lots of 6c/+s including in Spain. Probably a bit stronger but also I think my attitude changed and I was trying that bit harder. Ended up having a bit of a break at beginning of 2015 and almost immediately hurt shoulder and elbow on coming back. These are now completely pain free, though still working on them. This year not so hot but a couple of quick ascents of 6c's and one 7a. Been lots of changes in personal life and just beginning to look like I can get out and climb more regularly again.
Goals
Rest of the year-consolidate 7a/tick some of the longer 6c/+'s at Portland.
Winter-actually have a focussed training programme (well plan targeting main energy systems at least)
2016-7b/+?
I'm 53 now and just starting a professional training which will be finished in 3 1/2 years-I would like to have a dirt bag euro trip in either summer 2017 or when I finish-need a big hairy goal for that but not sure what right now.
Last week-pretty knackered by weather but had 3xTCA visits and have ticked all the yellows (F6A) and probably two thirds of new blues V2-V4. On other days have been doing rehab and basic core exercises.
Based in Bath so if any local fit clubbers looking for partners please get in touch.
Good to be back
Rich
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally for the thread.
I'm back in the spirit of posting even through bad times and I guess in the hope of a little advice. I haven't kept a diary as last week. I was in Wales with my daughter. The week did include Snowdon and an 8 + mile bike ride which entailed me pushing x 2 bikes up hundreds of feet of stoney path (significantly harder than Snowdon!). I stayed 'active' but nowt really to write home about. Did the bouldering comp routes today but very poor indeed, first stab at them with daughter in tow and on last day they're up.
I've stayed climbing over the last 3 weeks but had very limited time, also been starting off a good friend climbing, a pleasure but soaked up climbing time. I've had my daughter pretty much round the clock as the odd time her dad hasn't cancelled having her I've needed to catch up on stuff so couldn't climb.
Work has still been nuts and my Mum has been in hospital/assessment at a care home (dementia), Dad been needing support re social services - Dad even came on my holiday due to not neeeding to look after Mum.
My climbing grade has nose dived, just not getting up stuff. I feel pretty soul destroyed and any head game is in bits. Physically my knee (fell on it running weeks ago) is still not right and I have a tweaky elbow when I grip - weird it started after I was no longer really training (ironic!).
School starts on weds so I will have at least one weekly spot to climb without daughter, hopefully knee will sort itself, parent situation and work is unlikely to change for weeks to come, daughter's father unlikely to step up any time soon.
I don't know whether to just train hard regardless, try to see a physio, give up training. Doing less for the last 3 weeks has not really helped. I can't take time from work as 3 out of 6 are off sick, 1 of the remainers is lazy and I have a pact with the other worker that neither of us will go off - we work with people and for the 2 of us left who actually work that weighs heavy.
Climbing is my me bit of life, my me time, my hobby and I climbing so badly it's not making me happy but whatever the F happens I'm not going to stop, I know something will change or i will adapt and as long as I'm still in it then I'll be there to enjoy it.
So what to do to beat the doldrums? Thanks muchly for reading all that too.
In other news munchkin got 6 flashes on the comp problems today - her best ever score and I was so proud!
Thanks Ally for the thread.
I'm back in the spirit of posting even through bad times and I guess in the hope of a little advice. I haven't kept a diary as last week. I was in Wales with my daughter. The week did include Snowdon and an 8 + mile bike ride which entailed me pushing x 2 bikes up hundreds of feet of stoney path (significantly harder than Snowdon!). I stayed 'active' but nowt really to write home about. Did the bouldering comp routes today but very poor indeed, first stab at them with daughter in tow and on last day they're up.
I've stayed climbing over the last 3 weeks but had very limited time, also been starting off a good friend climbing, a pleasure but soaked up climbing time. I've had my daughter pretty much round the clock as the odd time her dad hasn't cancelled having her I've needed to catch up on stuff so couldn't climb.
Work has still been nuts and my Mum has been in hospital/assessment at a care home (dementia), Dad been needing support re social services - Dad even came on my holiday due to not neeeding to look after Mum.
My climbing grade has nose dived, just not getting up stuff. I feel pretty soul destroyed and any head game is in bits. Physically my knee (fell on it running weeks ago) is still not right and I have a tweaky elbow when I grip - weird it started after I was no longer really training (ironic!).
School starts on weds so I will have at least one weekly spot to climb without daughter, hopefully knee will sort itself, parent situation and work is unlikely to change for weeks to come, daughter's father unlikely to step up any time soon.
I don't know whether to just train hard regardless, try to see a physio, give up training. Doing less for the last 3 weeks has not really helped. I can't take time from work as 3 out of 6 are off sick, 1 of the remainers is lazy and I have a pact with the other worker that neither of us will go off - we work with people and for the 2 of us left who actually work that weighs heavy.
Climbing is my me bit of life, my me time, my hobby and I climbing so badly it's not making me happy but whatever the F happens I'm not going to stop, I know something will change or i will adapt and as long as I'm still in it then I'll be there to enjoy it.
So what to do to beat the doldrums? Thanks muchly for reading all that too.
In other news munchkin got 6 flashes on the comp problems today - her best ever score and I was so proud!
1
1
In reply to flopsicle:
It sounds like you've got masses on your plate at the moment You could try focusing on movement skills for a bit (have a look at The Self Coached Climber?) rather than physically hammering yourself - I know I'm quite prone to injury if I'm stressed and tired.
It sounds like you've got masses on your plate at the moment You could try focusing on movement skills for a bit (have a look at The Self Coached Climber?) rather than physically hammering yourself - I know I'm quite prone to injury if I'm stressed and tired.
1
In reply to Curious Yellow:
quite agree. I find climbing near/at the top of my grade pretty stressful in itself. If I'm also stressed due to work/family then it's a recipe for failure, then I just feel crap about the climbing too. So in these circumstances, I tend to drop a grade and concentrate on something else - stamina perhaps, or seeing how many of the TR routes I can bag in a session. But nothing that I can beat myself up about!
quite agree. I find climbing near/at the top of my grade pretty stressful in itself. If I'm also stressed due to work/family then it's a recipe for failure, then I just feel crap about the climbing too. So in these circumstances, I tend to drop a grade and concentrate on something else - stamina perhaps, or seeing how many of the TR routes I can bag in a session. But nothing that I can beat myself up about!
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for doing fit club again Ally.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Although may be getting side tracked!
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm - 2hrs 10min on the road bike (Winter endurance)
T: pm - Played on 'A Vision of Things Gone Wild' 7b, at Scout Scar. Could climb to the crux section and from the crux sectionto the top. (PE I guess, but really because I wanted to get on something outdoors.) Rain stopped play so went to the wall - half an ARC session. (Base & endurance training.)
W: Rest
T: am - 1hr ARC outside. (Base & endurance training.)
F: am - 1hr ARC at wall. (Base & endurance training.)
S: 2hr easy road ride with one of my lads (Recovery)
S: am, 2hrs - Back on 'A Vision of Things Gone Wild' 7b, at Scout Scar. Got it all in two sections with the exception of two moves where I need to sort feet out. pm - family MTB ride around half the red at Gisburn Forest. (Winter endurance)
A good week. Getting bored with ARC so it's a good job this is the last week of it! Maybe shouldn't have got distracted by getting on a top end (for me) sports route when I should be setting a foundation(?) but it was good to get out and progress was made. Started to dent the post holiday 12 stone - if I get back to my early Summer 11.5 stone I think I'll stand a fighting chance on AVOTGW.
Thanks for doing fit club again Ally.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Although may be getting side tracked!
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm - 2hrs 10min on the road bike (Winter endurance)
T: pm - Played on 'A Vision of Things Gone Wild' 7b, at Scout Scar. Could climb to the crux section and from the crux sectionto the top. (PE I guess, but really because I wanted to get on something outdoors.) Rain stopped play so went to the wall - half an ARC session. (Base & endurance training.)
W: Rest
T: am - 1hr ARC outside. (Base & endurance training.)
F: am - 1hr ARC at wall. (Base & endurance training.)
S: 2hr easy road ride with one of my lads (Recovery)
S: am, 2hrs - Back on 'A Vision of Things Gone Wild' 7b, at Scout Scar. Got it all in two sections with the exception of two moves where I need to sort feet out. pm - family MTB ride around half the red at Gisburn Forest. (Winter endurance)
A good week. Getting bored with ARC so it's a good job this is the last week of it! Maybe shouldn't have got distracted by getting on a top end (for me) sports route when I should be setting a foundation(?) but it was good to get out and progress was made. Started to dent the post holiday 12 stone - if I get back to my early Summer 11.5 stone I think I'll stand a fighting chance on AVOTGW.
Post edited at 20:43
In reply to flopsicle:
You won't climb at your best with all that going on! Maybe write out a realistic plan to put into action when you get a bit more time, (whenever that may be - don't put a start finish date on it, just have it ready to go when your situation allows.) Once you've got a plan that you will action soon then you know that climbing, even below your normal level, can be seen as the valuable base / maintenance training so you are ready to launch when the time allows. This way what you are doing now takes on real purpose and is working towards a future 'peak performance', and that reason for climbing may give more meaning, and so enjoyment / sense of purpose for what you are doing now.
(Sorry for the very long winded response!)
You won't climb at your best with all that going on! Maybe write out a realistic plan to put into action when you get a bit more time, (whenever that may be - don't put a start finish date on it, just have it ready to go when your situation allows.) Once you've got a plan that you will action soon then you know that climbing, even below your normal level, can be seen as the valuable base / maintenance training so you are ready to launch when the time allows. This way what you are doing now takes on real purpose and is working towards a future 'peak performance', and that reason for climbing may give more meaning, and so enjoyment / sense of purpose for what you are doing now.
(Sorry for the very long winded response!)
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I learned that I can definitely never have enough practice at setting routes, and forcing a specific move is a lot harder than you might first think!
It didn't help me much with technique, in fact most of the others on the course were climbing like I used to, front on with bent arms, I set all my routes to be mostly do-able with straight arms and good footwork but very few people took advantage of it, which could of course be more due to my inexperienced setting as much as anything else.
3 months of footwork drills at the start of the year (that I still do now) really instilled a new attitude in my climbing, these days i'll drop a knee at the first opportunity, I can no longer blame my technique when my elbows start to ache! Actually, I had a bit of a theory about that, I wondered if the tennis elbow might have been brought on from not only massive overuse in Kaly, but also the big change in my technique at the same time. I might have been climbing with better technique but my elbows weren't used to it, so the classic climbing injury reared it's head, much as it would have with a new climber who just started getting serious.
But I digress!
M: Mini break in the west country, raining so we climbed at redpoint bristol, 4x4 6b, 6c, 6b+, 6b - surprisingly comfortable but raw skin!
T: After massive dinner last night (with a cheese cupboard for dessert!) we went to hotel number 2, little swim in the pool, steam room, then michelin star dining and more wine!
W: Painting, trying to get the spare room done before carpets arrive friday
T: Climbing golden gecko, Boulder link ups in the v1-v4 range, raw skin stops play! More painting
F:
S: Bouldershed session, just a mooch about really, no training per se
S: Epic day of Woodwork/DIY, only meant to do a bit but ended up on it for 12 hours, knackered. Not smart as far as elbows go but seem to have got away with it.
Only 2 and a half sessions this week but it felt like I kept myself busy! Tennis elbow is like a distant memory, although I am doing lots of stretching to keep it that way, the good old bicep/brachialis elbow throbbing is making itself known a little but i'm managing it at the moment.
I'm very pleased with my stamina so far, I was worried that I would have lost loads of endurance in the last few months but I seem able to hang on for a lot longer than I expected. I'll try to get even more sessions in this coming week, my last real chance to increase the stamina before Kaly, it's only 12 days away now! I'm so pleased that I seem to be in reasonable shape for it, I'm still going to take it steady now and during the holiday, i'm just happy to get out there uninjured!
> Dandan82; What did you take home form the route setting? I hope you found it insightful to watch the different solutions to your problems? Maybe even learnt a thing or two about using your feet & body more and lessening the load on your poor elbows?
I learned that I can definitely never have enough practice at setting routes, and forcing a specific move is a lot harder than you might first think!
It didn't help me much with technique, in fact most of the others on the course were climbing like I used to, front on with bent arms, I set all my routes to be mostly do-able with straight arms and good footwork but very few people took advantage of it, which could of course be more due to my inexperienced setting as much as anything else.
3 months of footwork drills at the start of the year (that I still do now) really instilled a new attitude in my climbing, these days i'll drop a knee at the first opportunity, I can no longer blame my technique when my elbows start to ache! Actually, I had a bit of a theory about that, I wondered if the tennis elbow might have been brought on from not only massive overuse in Kaly, but also the big change in my technique at the same time. I might have been climbing with better technique but my elbows weren't used to it, so the classic climbing injury reared it's head, much as it would have with a new climber who just started getting serious.
But I digress!
M: Mini break in the west country, raining so we climbed at redpoint bristol, 4x4 6b, 6c, 6b+, 6b - surprisingly comfortable but raw skin!
T: After massive dinner last night (with a cheese cupboard for dessert!) we went to hotel number 2, little swim in the pool, steam room, then michelin star dining and more wine!
W: Painting, trying to get the spare room done before carpets arrive friday
T: Climbing golden gecko, Boulder link ups in the v1-v4 range, raw skin stops play! More painting
F:
S: Bouldershed session, just a mooch about really, no training per se
S: Epic day of Woodwork/DIY, only meant to do a bit but ended up on it for 12 hours, knackered. Not smart as far as elbows go but seem to have got away with it.
Only 2 and a half sessions this week but it felt like I kept myself busy! Tennis elbow is like a distant memory, although I am doing lots of stretching to keep it that way, the good old bicep/brachialis elbow throbbing is making itself known a little but i'm managing it at the moment.
I'm very pleased with my stamina so far, I was worried that I would have lost loads of endurance in the last few months but I seem able to hang on for a lot longer than I expected. I'll try to get even more sessions in this coming week, my last real chance to increase the stamina before Kaly, it's only 12 days away now! I'm so pleased that I seem to be in reasonable shape for it, I'm still going to take it steady now and during the holiday, i'm just happy to get out there uninjured!
In reply to Curious Yellow: And HMS...
Thanks for reading.
I do have the self coached climber but it's on loan to a friend at the moment. There's a fair bit on the web to go at so it could be a plan to cut it back to just movement etc. I'm gutted by how hard I'm finding it, my comp score was 90, usually 120 - 150, I'm 2 or 3 grades down at NCC and still not flying up!
It's the final for the SBL at the Depot on the 11th sept, I want to conjour up a non score based goal for it.
Thanks for reading.
I do have the self coached climber but it's on loan to a friend at the moment. There's a fair bit on the web to go at so it could be a plan to cut it back to just movement etc. I'm gutted by how hard I'm finding it, my comp score was 90, usually 120 - 150, I'm 2 or 3 grades down at NCC and still not flying up!
It's the final for the SBL at the Depot on the 11th sept, I want to conjour up a non score based goal for it.
In reply to Exile:
Cheers for reading and it wasn't as long winded as my whinge!
I've been planless for the last 3 weeks and it's just spiralling so I want to regain some rhthym but maybe a more chilled out one?
I think base/maintainance is important with Munchkin back at school - for a 7 yr old she manages to keep me well on my toes when she's around all the while, from 6 mile runs in the peaks to the occasional mountain! I'll need to self start a bit more to keep up any base.
I'm a bit wary that a plan for the future would feel a bit frustrating and some issues are not likely to resolve any time soon. I don't want something blu-tacked to the wall catching dust!
Cheers for reading and it wasn't as long winded as my whinge!
I've been planless for the last 3 weeks and it's just spiralling so I want to regain some rhthym but maybe a more chilled out one?
I think base/maintainance is important with Munchkin back at school - for a 7 yr old she manages to keep me well on my toes when she's around all the while, from 6 mile runs in the peaks to the occasional mountain! I'll need to self start a bit more to keep up any base.
I'm a bit wary that a plan for the future would feel a bit frustrating and some issues are not likely to resolve any time soon. I don't want something blu-tacked to the wall catching dust!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hey ally, the garage clear out was to make space for a bouldering wall...
This week - 1 session at the wall, went v well. Plus three sessions at plantation, mostly on zippys traverse. I love it and am certain I will get it if I go back once my arms have recovered.
Weight - 63.x/64.x. Maintaining this is enough, not going to priorities further weight loss. It is not being too heavy that is holding me back!
Hey ally, the garage clear out was to make space for a bouldering wall...
This week - 1 session at the wall, went v well. Plus three sessions at plantation, mostly on zippys traverse. I love it and am certain I will get it if I go back once my arms have recovered.
Weight - 63.x/64.x. Maintaining this is enough, not going to priorities further weight loss. It is not being too heavy that is holding me back!
In reply to hms:
And Ramallar certainly is mega.
> Nearly forgot to mention the BHAG. Suppose I should put it down, although feel rather nervous about doing so. It's to get 8a before I'm 50. Although that might stretch to before I cease being 50 depending on the progress!
And Ramallar certainly is mega.
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally.
The reason why it shouldn't have been a fun session is because Shauna probably has 10 sessions of training a week, so she deserves a fun one
However it's just as important to climb for fun. That's why i do it after all.
This week was very difficult, as i predicted. One session only of bouldering.
Good session though. 42 problems up to V5, with 41 flashed. Soft up to V4 ish though. Then got stuck into the V6's. 2 flashed, 2 worked and 4 i'm close too. Battered at the end and aching in all the right places for a couple of days after. No shoulder pain but a bit of elbow niggling to look out for.
Had a session route setting as well. That counts doesn't it?
This week i've got the kids for the last week of Summer hols so i'll have to see what i can fit in.
Next week i start my physio course and am part time at work - so no excuses. Biggest priority is to get outside. Trad, sport, bouldering i don't care. Just outside!
Cheers.
Cheers Ally.
The reason why it shouldn't have been a fun session is because Shauna probably has 10 sessions of training a week, so she deserves a fun one
However it's just as important to climb for fun. That's why i do it after all.
This week was very difficult, as i predicted. One session only of bouldering.
Good session though. 42 problems up to V5, with 41 flashed. Soft up to V4 ish though. Then got stuck into the V6's. 2 flashed, 2 worked and 4 i'm close too. Battered at the end and aching in all the right places for a couple of days after. No shoulder pain but a bit of elbow niggling to look out for.
Had a session route setting as well. That counts doesn't it?
This week i've got the kids for the last week of Summer hols so i'll have to see what i can fit in.
Next week i start my physio course and am part time at work - so no excuses. Biggest priority is to get outside. Trad, sport, bouldering i don't care. Just outside!
Cheers.
Post edited at 09:09
1
In reply to AJM:
Only a quick one from me. I'll do the Switzerland update next week. The week before going was again mental for work. I got to the wall once, ticked the long black (minor yyfy) and then promptly tweaked my shoulder. Cue cutting session short. Thankfully all fine by weekend, just a muscle tweak.
Only a quick one from me. I'll do the Switzerland update next week. The week before going was again mental for work. I got to the wall once, ticked the long black (minor yyfy) and then promptly tweaked my shoulder. Cue cutting session short. Thankfully all fine by weekend, just a muscle tweak.
1
In reply to flopsicle:
I've had some nasty sh!t go down in my life, and climbing remained a constant throughout that phase.
Performance was never going to be any good during that time, so I concentrated on the movement and enjoying it as much as possible - I ended up grabbing an occasional hour bouldering on my own, or when i got the time a couple of hours at the Tor with friends, enjoying the banter, sunshine and a sense of normality far more than the climbing itself.
I also developed a fatalistic taste for soloing - something i don't recommend to anyone...
I've had some nasty sh!t go down in my life, and climbing remained a constant throughout that phase.
Performance was never going to be any good during that time, so I concentrated on the movement and enjoying it as much as possible - I ended up grabbing an occasional hour bouldering on my own, or when i got the time a couple of hours at the Tor with friends, enjoying the banter, sunshine and a sense of normality far more than the climbing itself.
I also developed a fatalistic taste for soloing - something i don't recommend to anyone...
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Some promising signs of improvement his week - just need to stay on top of my returning psyche and not go too big too soon.
STG (next week)
- Icing, stretching, and rehab every day for hurty bits:
- finger; start to introduce some back-2 and middle-2 deadhangs
- knee; foam roller
- wrist;
- both shoulders
- 2x >30km bike rides
- Do “daily ab workout” from silly app.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight;
Last week:
M - Stretching, icing and 2x 5min ab app.
T - Another FB warm-up/rehab and back, middle & front-2 hangs at BW + 2kg. Modicum of strength returning, but still can’t use full RoM painfree. Stretching, icing and static core, & 5min ab app.
W - Proper knackered after work – beer & pizza dinner - 2x50 45 degree press-ups and 8min ab app to try and not feel guilty.
T - Another gentle FB session using medium campus rung. 2x 5min ab app.
F - Nuthin’ but stretchin’
S - First physio session – diagnosis is veering towards infraspinatus tear – crux is whether it’s the tendon or muscle/tendon junction? Seems 90% certain it's not a SLAP tear Hilly 26km ride though the peak with a quick heckle of folk at the cornice.
S - Penmaenbach – The Shouting Stage (E5 6a) first route since injury – good way to start the comeback. Then 2x TR on Tommy Chamonix (8a) which was just frickin' nails. Neither me nor Pete could work out the move past the 3rd bolt (though i think i did it last time around veering out left?).
Shoulder was sore reaching around my back for my chalk bag, and also when reaching high with left hand, but eased Monday morning and pain-free RoM has increased. Positive signs of progress - hoping for more of the same this week.
Some promising signs of improvement his week - just need to stay on top of my returning psyche and not go too big too soon.
STG (next week)
- Icing, stretching, and rehab every day for hurty bits:
- finger; start to introduce some back-2 and middle-2 deadhangs
- knee; foam roller
- wrist;
- both shoulders
- 2x >30km bike rides
- Do “daily ab workout” from silly app.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight;
Last week:
M - Stretching, icing and 2x 5min ab app.
T - Another FB warm-up/rehab and back, middle & front-2 hangs at BW + 2kg. Modicum of strength returning, but still can’t use full RoM painfree. Stretching, icing and static core, & 5min ab app.
W - Proper knackered after work – beer & pizza dinner - 2x50 45 degree press-ups and 8min ab app to try and not feel guilty.
T - Another gentle FB session using medium campus rung. 2x 5min ab app.
F - Nuthin’ but stretchin’
S - First physio session – diagnosis is veering towards infraspinatus tear – crux is whether it’s the tendon or muscle/tendon junction? Seems 90% certain it's not a SLAP tear Hilly 26km ride though the peak with a quick heckle of folk at the cornice.
S - Penmaenbach – The Shouting Stage (E5 6a) first route since injury – good way to start the comeback. Then 2x TR on Tommy Chamonix (8a) which was just frickin' nails. Neither me nor Pete could work out the move past the 3rd bolt (though i think i did it last time around veering out left?).
Shoulder was sore reaching around my back for my chalk bag, and also when reaching high with left hand, but eased Monday morning and pain-free RoM has increased. Positive signs of progress - hoping for more of the same this week.
1
In reply to flopsicle:
Try not to stress the lack of climbing performance, it'll go up and down anyway but when you've got so much on your plate - it's always going to be hard to clear the head and focus.
There's been plenty of times since I started, when life's been pretty grim, like earlier this year waiting for cancer test results and I'd often end up at the wall doing not a lot other than drinking coffee but it still did me good and like others have suggested I focused on easy movement.
Stick with it lady.
Try not to stress the lack of climbing performance, it'll go up and down anyway but when you've got so much on your plate - it's always going to be hard to clear the head and focus.
There's been plenty of times since I started, when life's been pretty grim, like earlier this year waiting for cancer test results and I'd often end up at the wall doing not a lot other than drinking coffee but it still did me good and like others have suggested I focused on easy movement.
Stick with it lady.
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
The van's going okay mate - starting to look the part. Bits and pieces keep arriving in the post and hopefully the bed foam arrives today. The ceiling ply is finished, just needs carpeting but the rest is pretty much there.
New STG - 7a on the trip
2016 - Salbit West Ridge. Incapacity Benefit, WCJ
2018 - Something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA
Mon-Thu - Work on van and some real work!
Fri - Got back on Incapacity at WCJ Cornice. Actually got the hot aches when I rested too long! :???:
Sat - Battered from the day before, got on the start of Head in the Shot in Serengeti and decided rest was a better option.
Sun - Early start. Soloed Ampitheatre Buttress, Direct Route on Milestone Buttress (going right at the bi-valve and skipping the chimney as someone was in it), Grooved Arete, before traversing over to Idwal -starting up Ordinary Route to avoid some damp and finishing up Charity from the step over.
Really pleased with Friday - never worked a route before and feel like I've made a huge jump forward, in how to go about it. Third time I've been on the route and now pretty smooth and efficient to my crux on lead. Can do all the top moves too, it's just four hand movements now and they all rely on me sorting my feet out properly. Managed to work out a foot sequence that lets me hold my crux holds without so much effort and sorted a plan for my feet to allow me to move higher... can't see me having the time to get back on it now before heading to Spain but when I get back, it's getting ticked. It's been a fun learning curve and was chuffed I didn't resort to the 'not strong enough' excuses and focused on my feet and body position.
Sunday was a blast! ;D Busy rolling the legs this morning, they're pretty tight. Days like this are what I used to do when I was a scrambler but often I'd back off the crux moves, so it was nice to be able to just spend the day in my own little bubble, enjoying the movement and enjoying the scenery. Padding up the top of Charity to meet Sean, who'd just gone up Faith - I was really happy. August has been a blast! Salbit Sudgrat, then this. Yep. Happy.
The van's going okay mate - starting to look the part. Bits and pieces keep arriving in the post and hopefully the bed foam arrives today. The ceiling ply is finished, just needs carpeting but the rest is pretty much there.
New STG - 7a on the trip
2016 - Salbit West Ridge. Incapacity Benefit, WCJ
2018 - Something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA
Mon-Thu - Work on van and some real work!
Fri - Got back on Incapacity at WCJ Cornice. Actually got the hot aches when I rested too long! :???:
Sat - Battered from the day before, got on the start of Head in the Shot in Serengeti and decided rest was a better option.
Sun - Early start. Soloed Ampitheatre Buttress, Direct Route on Milestone Buttress (going right at the bi-valve and skipping the chimney as someone was in it), Grooved Arete, before traversing over to Idwal -starting up Ordinary Route to avoid some damp and finishing up Charity from the step over.
Really pleased with Friday - never worked a route before and feel like I've made a huge jump forward, in how to go about it. Third time I've been on the route and now pretty smooth and efficient to my crux on lead. Can do all the top moves too, it's just four hand movements now and they all rely on me sorting my feet out properly. Managed to work out a foot sequence that lets me hold my crux holds without so much effort and sorted a plan for my feet to allow me to move higher... can't see me having the time to get back on it now before heading to Spain but when I get back, it's getting ticked. It's been a fun learning curve and was chuffed I didn't resort to the 'not strong enough' excuses and focused on my feet and body position.
Sunday was a blast! ;D Busy rolling the legs this morning, they're pretty tight. Days like this are what I used to do when I was a scrambler but often I'd back off the crux moves, so it was nice to be able to just spend the day in my own little bubble, enjoying the movement and enjoying the scenery. Padding up the top of Charity to meet Sean, who'd just gone up Faith - I was really happy. August has been a blast! Salbit Sudgrat, then this. Yep. Happy.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hi Ally, thanks for the stats. I can't honestly say the rehab is going well: the wrist is pretty constant at not-quite-right and I seem to have tweaked a finger. Hopefully a minor thing but it feels similar to a finger tweak that bothered me July - November last year.
I'm a bit fed up of the pattern I've experienced over the last 3 years of ticking over nicely during winter, getting going and seeing progress through spring then injury wiping out large parts of the summer. Hopefully I can get it right next year and actually build on the winter/spring progress rather than stepping back again.
M - Trampolining.
T - Rest.
W - 12km run, shins felt a bit sore.
T - 3km run, quite fast. Core. Shins a bit more sore - need rest.
F - Nothing. Travel to Guernsey.
S - Some climbing, not very inspiring. Short routes, damp/wet rock. Day cut short by torrential rain at lunch time. Went to the local boulder shed, tweaked RH middle finger on easy juggy traverse warming up.
S - Climbing at Gull Zawn, great crag and some cracking routes. Much better weather, some of the rock was actually dry! Highlight was Hades (E3 5c).
Spoiler for next week: Monday didn't involve any more climbing.
Analysis of injuries: wrist is ok, I don't think I've done any damage. Still far from perfect so need to get back into icing and theraband exercises twice per day. Easy to dismiss finger tweak as random but actually I was tired, cold and wet, not particularly psyched on indoor bouldering (therefore low concentration) and I've not been doing that much climbing lately which increases risk. Icing and some basic movement exercises over the next week.
Analysis of climbing in general: psyched on trad at the moment. I feel like it's marginally lower risk on injuries front - I can climb hard without pulling hard. Movement is feeling good, balance is good (helped by strong core), stamina is ok (helped by lower weight), strength is lacking and route reading not great.
Plan: Ramp up theraband exercises on wrist again, basic mobility exercises for finger. Icing for finger and wrist. If all is well by the end of the week, I'll give myself permission to go trad climbing again. Maybe best to avoid sport redpointing for a couple of weeks, and any indoor sessions will be stamina-based. Keep up at least 2 core sessions per week. Keep on running but watch the shins.
> Nick Russell; rehab going as planned/hoped for?
Hi Ally, thanks for the stats. I can't honestly say the rehab is going well: the wrist is pretty constant at not-quite-right and I seem to have tweaked a finger. Hopefully a minor thing but it feels similar to a finger tweak that bothered me July - November last year.
I'm a bit fed up of the pattern I've experienced over the last 3 years of ticking over nicely during winter, getting going and seeing progress through spring then injury wiping out large parts of the summer. Hopefully I can get it right next year and actually build on the winter/spring progress rather than stepping back again.
M - Trampolining.
T - Rest.
W - 12km run, shins felt a bit sore.
T - 3km run, quite fast. Core. Shins a bit more sore - need rest.
F - Nothing. Travel to Guernsey.
S - Some climbing, not very inspiring. Short routes, damp/wet rock. Day cut short by torrential rain at lunch time. Went to the local boulder shed, tweaked RH middle finger on easy juggy traverse warming up.
S - Climbing at Gull Zawn, great crag and some cracking routes. Much better weather, some of the rock was actually dry! Highlight was Hades (E3 5c).
Spoiler for next week: Monday didn't involve any more climbing.
Analysis of injuries: wrist is ok, I don't think I've done any damage. Still far from perfect so need to get back into icing and theraband exercises twice per day. Easy to dismiss finger tweak as random but actually I was tired, cold and wet, not particularly psyched on indoor bouldering (therefore low concentration) and I've not been doing that much climbing lately which increases risk. Icing and some basic movement exercises over the next week.
Analysis of climbing in general: psyched on trad at the moment. I feel like it's marginally lower risk on injuries front - I can climb hard without pulling hard. Movement is feeling good, balance is good (helped by strong core), stamina is ok (helped by lower weight), strength is lacking and route reading not great.
Plan: Ramp up theraband exercises on wrist again, basic mobility exercises for finger. Icing for finger and wrist. If all is well by the end of the week, I'll give myself permission to go trad climbing again. Maybe best to avoid sport redpointing for a couple of weeks, and any indoor sessions will be stamina-based. Keep up at least 2 core sessions per week. Keep on running but watch the shins.
In reply to mrchewy:
Hi Kelvin, if this is the first time you have worked a route like this, a thing that I have found useful is to write down every little bit of micro beta you have worked out. This way if you come back to it in a few months time it is much quicker to get going close to redpoint again. You'd be surprised how much of the little things you forget even if you can visualise all of it now.
I have a dilemma - I was supposed to be going to the wall this evening but have a bad cold so will have to cancel it. Was thinking of doing a fingerboard instead but can't decide whether fingerboarding is intense enough on the CV system to slow down my getting better - any thoughts?
Mostly do sets of 7/3 repeaters with some one arm lock offs at the end.
Hi Kelvin, if this is the first time you have worked a route like this, a thing that I have found useful is to write down every little bit of micro beta you have worked out. This way if you come back to it in a few months time it is much quicker to get going close to redpoint again. You'd be surprised how much of the little things you forget even if you can visualise all of it now.
I have a dilemma - I was supposed to be going to the wall this evening but have a bad cold so will have to cancel it. Was thinking of doing a fingerboard instead but can't decide whether fingerboarding is intense enough on the CV system to slow down my getting better - any thoughts?
Mostly do sets of 7/3 repeaters with some one arm lock offs at the end.
Post edited at 14:45
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Afternoon Ally, thanks for doing the stats!
Yeah, La Meije was a good big-mountain fix but sadly lacked the real top-quality climbing I thought it would have. Pretty decent week so far. Didn't get round to doing that bloody circuit session, as last minute plans to get up high were made. Finding it pretty hard to psyche myself up to do some actual regimented exercise as my pullup bar doesn't fit in the weirdly narrow French doorways in my apartment and I haven't got any weights here. Anyhow, should stop making excuses!
M: Nothing.
T: Drove back to the Ecrins. Cascade Blues (6a). Weird route, but was good to get another 6a pitch in the bag which felt super cruisy. Just got to start pushing the boat out now.
W: Snoopy directe (6b). Got the crux 6b pitch. Stopper move getting off the belay, ended up pulling on the draw. Annoyed about this, my ability to actually try hard has suffered recently. Oh well. Rest of the pitch felt good. Plans to try the S Pillar on the Barre des Ecrins fell apart.
T: Nothing.
F: Nothing.
S: Last minute plans to go climb something cool. 1h45 walk into the Grand Capucin for a cold bivi on the glacier.
S: Swiss Route (TD+ 6b+) on the Grand Capucin. Sweet tick, really didn't expect to get this done this season. Definitely piggybacked somewhat on my much stronger partners but glad to get the route nevertheless.
Last week's goals: Just do a bloody circuit session, for god's sake nope, but climbing the Grand Cap is a good excuse, as far as I'm concerned. 3 ticks including Voie Ottoz-Hurzeler (TD) and Innominata Ridge (D+) (conditions dependent) three ticks, yes, but weather got in the way of the Innominata and we weren't going to go through to Italy just for the Voie Ottoz. Get some plans in place to head to the Badile and the Dolomites weather still not playing ball. Starting to feel like a serial goal-misser, but can't control the weather eh.
STG (this week): Okay, actual circuit session. 3 alpine ticks.
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
Afternoon Ally, thanks for doing the stats!
Yeah, La Meije was a good big-mountain fix but sadly lacked the real top-quality climbing I thought it would have. Pretty decent week so far. Didn't get round to doing that bloody circuit session, as last minute plans to get up high were made. Finding it pretty hard to psyche myself up to do some actual regimented exercise as my pullup bar doesn't fit in the weirdly narrow French doorways in my apartment and I haven't got any weights here. Anyhow, should stop making excuses!
M: Nothing.
T: Drove back to the Ecrins. Cascade Blues (6a). Weird route, but was good to get another 6a pitch in the bag which felt super cruisy. Just got to start pushing the boat out now.
W: Snoopy directe (6b). Got the crux 6b pitch. Stopper move getting off the belay, ended up pulling on the draw. Annoyed about this, my ability to actually try hard has suffered recently. Oh well. Rest of the pitch felt good. Plans to try the S Pillar on the Barre des Ecrins fell apart.
T: Nothing.
F: Nothing.
S: Last minute plans to go climb something cool. 1h45 walk into the Grand Capucin for a cold bivi on the glacier.
S: Swiss Route (TD+ 6b+) on the Grand Capucin. Sweet tick, really didn't expect to get this done this season. Definitely piggybacked somewhat on my much stronger partners but glad to get the route nevertheless.
Last week's goals: Just do a bloody circuit session, for god's sake nope, but climbing the Grand Cap is a good excuse, as far as I'm concerned. 3 ticks including Voie Ottoz-Hurzeler (TD) and Innominata Ridge (D+) (conditions dependent) three ticks, yes, but weather got in the way of the Innominata and we weren't going to go through to Italy just for the Voie Ottoz. Get some plans in place to head to the Badile and the Dolomites weather still not playing ball. Starting to feel like a serial goal-misser, but can't control the weather eh.
STG (this week): Okay, actual circuit session. 3 alpine ticks.
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks (cumulative), 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. The Ginat (ED1 5), N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
In reply to Si dH:
Exercise and viruses don't mix.
Take a break; do the training when you're well again
Exercise and viruses don't mix.
Take a break; do the training when you're well again
In reply to Nick Russell:
of course, you've only got 2 1/2 weeks until we go to France, to do some redpointing!
of course, you've only got 2 1/2 weeks until we go to France, to do some redpointing!
In reply to Si dH:
Cheers Si - makes total sense and isn't something I would have done. Some of the stuff is moving a foot an inch here and there after the other foot has moved but it makes a massive difference to how much energy I use and knowing me... I'd forget. Muchly appreciated.
Can't help with the cold - I tend to just plough on.
Cheers Si - makes total sense and isn't something I would have done. Some of the stuff is moving a foot an inch here and there after the other foot has moved but it makes a massive difference to how much energy I use and knowing me... I'd forget. Muchly appreciated.
Can't help with the cold - I tend to just plough on.
In reply to hms:
Yes, but it doesn't have to be redpointing. I could focus more on onsighting some routes or even just getting some mileage on a different rock type/style. I'll decide in 2 1/2 weeks! I think I'm nearly there with accommodation btw, just have to get my bank to send some money as a deposit.
Yes, but it doesn't have to be redpointing. I could focus more on onsighting some routes or even just getting some mileage on a different rock type/style. I'll decide in 2 1/2 weeks! I think I'm nearly there with accommodation btw, just have to get my bank to send some money as a deposit.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I'll bear that in mind!
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st
M - rest
T - 100 dish tucks
W - Sport at Sirhowy
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - Sport at Dinas
S - 100 dish tucks then stag do
Month Avg - 80%
Year Avg - 70%
An excellent week wrapping up a really good month. Lots of excellent North Wales classics at the start of the month. Bit of a downer when my mate broke his ankle. But on Saturday Tom Randall (aka Coach Randall to AJM and Ally) needed a belay on his project at Dinas Rock. He kindly returned the favour belaying me on the *** 7a+, Berlin. It was a really cool day, very inspiring and really good fun. The 7a+ was nails, normally I'm a bit huh about + grades but this time it was deserved. On the upside, it felt largely possible, which was excellent, as it was close to 7b and if I could do that, it's a really big leap in my climbing. Makes 8a actually seem like something I could do and not some complete pie in the sky fantasy. I was on probably the tamest stag do on Sunday/Monday. In so far as I was sober the whole time. We went Karting which was a good laugh, however I did break myself a bit and now have a nicely bruised back. To get decent times you had to go flat out down a ramp, which was pretty damn bumpy and I got a bit battered by that. Exercise averages were good and once my back has recovered, I'm hoping for another 80% month, to drag things upward a bit.
I'll bear that in mind!
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st
M - rest
T - 100 dish tucks
W - Sport at Sirhowy
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - Sport at Dinas
S - 100 dish tucks then stag do
Month Avg - 80%
Year Avg - 70%
An excellent week wrapping up a really good month. Lots of excellent North Wales classics at the start of the month. Bit of a downer when my mate broke his ankle. But on Saturday Tom Randall (aka Coach Randall to AJM and Ally) needed a belay on his project at Dinas Rock. He kindly returned the favour belaying me on the *** 7a+, Berlin. It was a really cool day, very inspiring and really good fun. The 7a+ was nails, normally I'm a bit huh about + grades but this time it was deserved. On the upside, it felt largely possible, which was excellent, as it was close to 7b and if I could do that, it's a really big leap in my climbing. Makes 8a actually seem like something I could do and not some complete pie in the sky fantasy. I was on probably the tamest stag do on Sunday/Monday. In so far as I was sober the whole time. We went Karting which was a good laugh, however I did break myself a bit and now have a nicely bruised back. To get decent times you had to go flat out down a ramp, which was pretty damn bumpy and I got a bit battered by that. Exercise averages were good and once my back has recovered, I'm hoping for another 80% month, to drag things upward a bit.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers, I need to recapture dossing about a bit at the wall (safely!). Sadly getting outdoors seems further away than ever.
Cheers, I need to recapture dossing about a bit at the wall (safely!). Sadly getting outdoors seems further away than ever.
In reply to mrchewy:
I took some time to chill today, asked my boss if I could book 1.5 more days A/L and was told to take them as TOIL, strictly and without the morning sorting stuff too. I love the atmosphere at the wall and like very nearly everyone but don't really have climbing friends as I don't access the social side - can't really take a 7 yr old to the pub! Although the friend who's just taken an interest seems really keen so I might get to mix that stuff together a bit more in the future.
I took some time to chill today, asked my boss if I could book 1.5 more days A/L and was told to take them as TOIL, strictly and without the morning sorting stuff too. I love the atmosphere at the wall and like very nearly everyone but don't really have climbing friends as I don't access the social side - can't really take a 7 yr old to the pub! Although the friend who's just taken an interest seems really keen so I might get to mix that stuff together a bit more in the future.
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally for doing FC. Good to hear that there are little improvements on the injury front! It was inspiring watching the worldcup climbers, figured out I should heelhook more, they heelhooked nearly every foothold.
STG: work on weak sides, for this week vertical wall, small hand and food holds and balancy moves.
-> Tick, but should focus more on it, so I let it be a this week’s goal as well.
Weight: 67.3kg
M: bouldering indoors, all new problems, goal was flashing everyting up to easy and do a medium in a session, failed on one of the easies, which went second go and managed to flash 3 mediums. Really happy with that as I never flashed a medium before and they usually take me 3 sessions.
T: rest
W: bouldering indoors, focused on the weakness, didn’t went too well as expected, but was good to be doing something I’m bad at. 4 autobelay routes focussing on breathing and legs as cooling down.
T: rest
F: bouldering indoors, focussing on small holds/delicate moves. Found it hard to figure out routes, either they were too much focused on small holds which led to non balance routes, or they were balancy but too easy.
S: rest
S: bouldering indoors, focused on slopers and delicate moves, didn’t went too well as I was feeling sick since Friday evening, but managed a balancy/fingery 7- on the autobelay, which I previously couldn’t do.
Thanks Ally for doing FC. Good to hear that there are little improvements on the injury front! It was inspiring watching the worldcup climbers, figured out I should heelhook more, they heelhooked nearly every foothold.
STG: work on weak sides, for this week vertical wall, small hand and food holds and balancy moves.
-> Tick, but should focus more on it, so I let it be a this week’s goal as well.
Weight: 67.3kg
M: bouldering indoors, all new problems, goal was flashing everyting up to easy and do a medium in a session, failed on one of the easies, which went second go and managed to flash 3 mediums. Really happy with that as I never flashed a medium before and they usually take me 3 sessions.
T: rest
W: bouldering indoors, focused on the weakness, didn’t went too well as expected, but was good to be doing something I’m bad at. 4 autobelay routes focussing on breathing and legs as cooling down.
T: rest
F: bouldering indoors, focussing on small holds/delicate moves. Found it hard to figure out routes, either they were too much focused on small holds which led to non balance routes, or they were balancy but too easy.
S: rest
S: bouldering indoors, focused on slopers and delicate moves, didn’t went too well as I was feeling sick since Friday evening, but managed a balancy/fingery 7- on the autobelay, which I previously couldn’t do.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Morning Campers,
Muchly Ally, good to hear that the injuries are fixing, pretty darned inspiring to hear that you're mucking about on an 8a while still recovering - top banana! Also, definitely got a digging KOM on Strava - King OF Mountains of soil, that is!
Flopsicle, I reckon everyone else is bang on. Take it easy on the clambering/running front for a bit, concentrate on everything else and then when things are beginning to improve again, get cracking on the training again with new found psyche and enthusiasm - you go, girl!
TTraining Diary WC 24/8/15
DIY and Rain
Monday – TCA with Tom. Ticked a few greens, tried a spectacular comp problem with a slopey start and a dyno (not my style so will work it) and did OK. Then got shut down by the early moves on an 8a woody circuit on the steep board – will be back to do more of this is it looks great and will be good training for The Loop at Huntsham!
Tuesday – Run: STP Wk 4 Run 1 – Easy Run: 10.2km in 47:31. 193m ascent and 4:38m/km. Super – went out a little hard as wanted to have a good go at an uphill segment that many good club runners had done during the Cotswold Way relay – ended 12th on the Strava ranking so alright. Managed to hold it together for the rest of the run.
Wednesday – Chillin’ and a 5B Beastmaker session – 104/126. Did the ol’ Frenchie thing. Shoulders failed first. Noticed that I’m stronger with wide arms than close in and that working my weaker grips earlier in the sets of sets works better.
Thursday – DIY around the house then TCA. Worked the hard 8a+ woody circuit – progress made – and then 30 mins of 1 on, 1 off aero cap mostly on the steep board on a 6c+ to start then mostly on a 6a+. Averaged about 1 ¾ mins per go so work to do – had a steady pump on the whole time. Finished on the steep Mothership with a 6B+ second go and then a couple of easier problems to warm down. Press ups and stretches.
Friday – AM: Concreting 80kg sleepers in in the garden with Dad.
PM: STP Wk4 Run 2 – Tempo Run: 10km in 40:42; 128m ascent at 4:02m/km pace. Fairly went for it to make the pace required by the training plan; had to dig deep in the last 2km or so but I managed it.
Saturday – Fitting more sleepers with Tom in the morning, followed by, you guessed it, digging in the afternoon.
Sunday – Biathlon (of sorts)! AM - TCA with Tom. Working problems on the Mothership. Onsighted a 6C, got a 7A (6C+ I reckon) in four goes and then a 6C+ (hard) in 3 goes. Worked the moves on a cool anti-style slopery 7A. Definitely more sloper action needed and lots of slopers to go at!
PM – STP Wk 4 Run 3 – Long Run: 10.5km in 53:50; 264m of ascent and 5:07m/km pace. Running on fumes (tired) but enjoyed slithering in the mud up t’ woods.
Weight = 71.0kg
STG: slopers, 2 x endurance sessions/circuits/endurancy fingerboard nonsense (not tried this before) per week.
Heel hook practice. Get on Peckitt's Traverse (7C) at Biblins as the cave closes for the winter in a month.
MTG: work Peckitt's Traverse, get on some routes, keep up the endurance and sloper-ising.
Tweak Beastmaker routine as my shoulders and arm fatigue less.
Get back on The Loop (8a) at The Mighty 'Sham!
Finish the garden/shed.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Muchly Ally, good to hear that the injuries are fixing, pretty darned inspiring to hear that you're mucking about on an 8a while still recovering - top banana! Also, definitely got a digging KOM on Strava - King OF Mountains of soil, that is!
Flopsicle, I reckon everyone else is bang on. Take it easy on the clambering/running front for a bit, concentrate on everything else and then when things are beginning to improve again, get cracking on the training again with new found psyche and enthusiasm - you go, girl!
TTraining Diary WC 24/8/15
DIY and Rain
Monday – TCA with Tom. Ticked a few greens, tried a spectacular comp problem with a slopey start and a dyno (not my style so will work it) and did OK. Then got shut down by the early moves on an 8a woody circuit on the steep board – will be back to do more of this is it looks great and will be good training for The Loop at Huntsham!
Tuesday – Run: STP Wk 4 Run 1 – Easy Run: 10.2km in 47:31. 193m ascent and 4:38m/km. Super – went out a little hard as wanted to have a good go at an uphill segment that many good club runners had done during the Cotswold Way relay – ended 12th on the Strava ranking so alright. Managed to hold it together for the rest of the run.
Wednesday – Chillin’ and a 5B Beastmaker session – 104/126. Did the ol’ Frenchie thing. Shoulders failed first. Noticed that I’m stronger with wide arms than close in and that working my weaker grips earlier in the sets of sets works better.
Thursday – DIY around the house then TCA. Worked the hard 8a+ woody circuit – progress made – and then 30 mins of 1 on, 1 off aero cap mostly on the steep board on a 6c+ to start then mostly on a 6a+. Averaged about 1 ¾ mins per go so work to do – had a steady pump on the whole time. Finished on the steep Mothership with a 6B+ second go and then a couple of easier problems to warm down. Press ups and stretches.
Friday – AM: Concreting 80kg sleepers in in the garden with Dad.
PM: STP Wk4 Run 2 – Tempo Run: 10km in 40:42; 128m ascent at 4:02m/km pace. Fairly went for it to make the pace required by the training plan; had to dig deep in the last 2km or so but I managed it.
Saturday – Fitting more sleepers with Tom in the morning, followed by, you guessed it, digging in the afternoon.
Sunday – Biathlon (of sorts)! AM - TCA with Tom. Working problems on the Mothership. Onsighted a 6C, got a 7A (6C+ I reckon) in four goes and then a 6C+ (hard) in 3 goes. Worked the moves on a cool anti-style slopery 7A. Definitely more sloper action needed and lots of slopers to go at!
PM – STP Wk 4 Run 3 – Long Run: 10.5km in 53:50; 264m of ascent and 5:07m/km pace. Running on fumes (tired) but enjoyed slithering in the mud up t’ woods.
Weight = 71.0kg
STG: slopers, 2 x endurance sessions/circuits/endurancy fingerboard nonsense (not tried this before) per week.
Heel hook practice. Get on Peckitt's Traverse (7C) at Biblins as the cave closes for the winter in a month.
MTG: work Peckitt's Traverse, get on some routes, keep up the endurance and sloper-ising.
Tweak Beastmaker routine as my shoulders and arm fatigue less.
Get back on The Loop (8a) at The Mighty 'Sham!
Finish the garden/shed.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
XXXX
Post edited at 22:10
In reply to flopsicle:
Nice to hear you're being pro-active with regards to work.
It's funny, all of the mates I've taken to the wall have never took it farther - I just ended up making a new bunch of mates! The boulder room is really tiny at Pinnacle tho and it was a new wall when I started, so everyone was in the same boat and it was a really friendly place to be. Hopefully, your friend will be rather keener than mine... or maybe it's just me and I scare them.
Nice to hear you're being pro-active with regards to work.
It's funny, all of the mates I've taken to the wall have never took it farther - I just ended up making a new bunch of mates! The boulder room is really tiny at Pinnacle tho and it was a new wall when I started, so everyone was in the same boat and it was a really friendly place to be. Hopefully, your friend will be rather keener than mine... or maybe it's just me and I scare them.
In reply to Joyce:
It's the kinda 8a that pulling harder makes it more difficult - it's all in the technique, balance, poise & smooth movement - perfect opportunity whilst the left-side of my body doesn't want to behave!?
> Muchly Ally, good to hear that the injuries are fixing, pretty darned inspiring to hear that you're mucking about on an 8a while still recovering
It's the kinda 8a that pulling harder makes it more difficult - it's all in the technique, balance, poise & smooth movement - perfect opportunity whilst the left-side of my body doesn't want to behave!?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks Ally. It turns out I am not in the lead final as they¡¦ve slightly moved the goalposts to Top 4 females rather than top placings from each category. So all the juniors and the first senior female are in. A bit annoying as otherwise I would have done another session to get another couple of ticks! It¡¦s actually really annoying as I¡¦ve seen everyone in the current top 4 climb and would definitely have them all in an onsight format in the final.
So no conflict with briefing and a leisurely day¡¦s travel up to the Lakes. Hopefully with a stop at somewhere like Trowbarrow on the way for some loose quarried trad fun.
In other news, mortgage now approved and have contracts though yet to wriggle out of current rental contract.
M ¡V Body balance class. Antagonist bench press.
T ¡V rest
W ¡V Boulder Brookes. New area not as exciting as I had hoped. The top out boulder is quite samey.
T ¡V Lead Milton Keynes
F ¡V Manic day. Visited Rockfax HQ. Women¡¦s Climbing Symposium planning meeting.
PM. Boulder Climbing Unit.
S ¡V Boulder Rheinstor back on the V6 traverse. Linked in two overlapping halves now. Just need enough skin and my brain to recognise the difference between one pocket and another¡K
S - rest
Thanks Ally. It turns out I am not in the lead final as they¡¦ve slightly moved the goalposts to Top 4 females rather than top placings from each category. So all the juniors and the first senior female are in. A bit annoying as otherwise I would have done another session to get another couple of ticks! It¡¦s actually really annoying as I¡¦ve seen everyone in the current top 4 climb and would definitely have them all in an onsight format in the final.
So no conflict with briefing and a leisurely day¡¦s travel up to the Lakes. Hopefully with a stop at somewhere like Trowbarrow on the way for some loose quarried trad fun.
In other news, mortgage now approved and have contracts though yet to wriggle out of current rental contract.
M ¡V Body balance class. Antagonist bench press.
T ¡V rest
W ¡V Boulder Brookes. New area not as exciting as I had hoped. The top out boulder is quite samey.
T ¡V Lead Milton Keynes
F ¡V Manic day. Visited Rockfax HQ. Women¡¦s Climbing Symposium planning meeting.
PM. Boulder Climbing Unit.
S ¡V Boulder Rheinstor back on the V6 traverse. Linked in two overlapping halves now. Just need enough skin and my brain to recognise the difference between one pocket and another¡K
S - rest
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally, I think you might have put your finger on the reason for Wednesdays poor performance! Glad you are healing, now take it steady!
M: am - jog to work, pm - jog home
Tu: am - jog to work
W: pm - BMC race @ Watford - was going to enter the open race (slower) but got persuaded at the last minute by my clubmate (mistake!). After a quick warm-up lined up, no time for nerves and off we go. The pace was supposed to be 62 secs for 400 and 2:04 for 800. Knowing this would be a bit sharpish I went to the back and then struggled to hang on. Round we come to 400 to hear the time being called out as 59 seconds - know wonder it felt bl**dy quick! I went through in 61/62 but it was all downhill from there. Out the backdoor after 500m, 800m in 2:08 but slowing and although damage limitation was ok on the last lap I still finished butt last in 4:08. never mind, season finished! Went to the golden arches and celebrated with a Mcflurry!
Th: rest
F: nothing
Sa: nowt
Su: nadda
Total Miles: ~12M Season went out with a whimper rather than a bang but happy to finish now and looking forward to a couple of weeks off. Mind you, 7 days without running and I'm already thinking about cross country season......
will maybe put a review of things next time to bore everyone.
Cheers Ally, I think you might have put your finger on the reason for Wednesdays poor performance! Glad you are healing, now take it steady!
M: am - jog to work, pm - jog home
Tu: am - jog to work
W: pm - BMC race @ Watford - was going to enter the open race (slower) but got persuaded at the last minute by my clubmate (mistake!). After a quick warm-up lined up, no time for nerves and off we go. The pace was supposed to be 62 secs for 400 and 2:04 for 800. Knowing this would be a bit sharpish I went to the back and then struggled to hang on. Round we come to 400 to hear the time being called out as 59 seconds - know wonder it felt bl**dy quick! I went through in 61/62 but it was all downhill from there. Out the backdoor after 500m, 800m in 2:08 but slowing and although damage limitation was ok on the last lap I still finished butt last in 4:08. never mind, season finished! Went to the golden arches and celebrated with a Mcflurry!
Th: rest
F: nothing
Sa: nowt
Su: nadda
Total Miles: ~12M Season went out with a whimper rather than a bang but happy to finish now and looking forward to a couple of weeks off. Mind you, 7 days without running and I'm already thinking about cross country season......
will maybe put a review of things next time to bore everyone.
In reply to Ally Smith:
M: BoulderUK
T: Outhouse - Back on the undercut circuit managed overlapping halves. Did doubles on the yellow in each direction for old times sake. Astonished to make progress on the orange and blue, made the distance on the hard move but didn't hold the blob
W:
T: BoulderUK - Felt battered but ended up doing another V6 (easy) and V5 (hard)
F:
S:
S: Chapel Head. Did a hard 6c, hard 7a and then got very close on a hard 7b but bottled a hard clip after the crux. Two subsequent RPs got no higher. Who needs Yorshire Lime?
Weight: Consistently below 10 8
M: BoulderUK
T: Outhouse - Back on the undercut circuit managed overlapping halves. Did doubles on the yellow in each direction for old times sake. Astonished to make progress on the orange and blue, made the distance on the hard move but didn't hold the blob
W:
T: BoulderUK - Felt battered but ended up doing another V6 (easy) and V5 (hard)
F:
S:
S: Chapel Head. Did a hard 6c, hard 7a and then got very close on a hard 7b but bottled a hard clip after the crux. Two subsequent RPs got no higher. Who needs Yorshire Lime?
Weight: Consistently below 10 8
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