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Today I just had to share this video of Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon training in Jerry's cellar back in the day. It says in the video it was filmed in 1998, but to me it looks more like 1988?In a podcast I made the other day with Alex Megos, one of the strongest and most dedicated of todays top...
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In reply to UKC News:
I was lucky (?!) enough to watch this video in its entirety recently on (unnamed) someone's laptop before the clip was posted by cafe Kraft. On top of The Real Thing, and One Summer videos, this neatly captures all the dedication that went into their sends back then. Plus the quintessential Jerryness of being Jerry. Excellent!
I was lucky (?!) enough to watch this video in its entirety recently on (unnamed) someone's laptop before the clip was posted by cafe Kraft. On top of The Real Thing, and One Summer videos, this neatly captures all the dedication that went into their sends back then. Plus the quintessential Jerryness of being Jerry. Excellent!
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In reply to UKC News:
Great video. Ben and Jerry were my childhood climbing heroes.
The camera loves Jerry!
Great video. Ben and Jerry were my childhood climbing heroes.
The camera loves Jerry!
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In reply to aln:
I got it to work by going to the cafe Kraft Facebook page... Press the F on the bottom right of the video.
I got it to work by going to the cafe Kraft Facebook page... Press the F on the bottom right of the video.
In reply to JLS:
OK thanks I'll try that.
I did and it worked. Great wee video, I liked that as well as being strong and dedicated they were having a good laugh too.
OK thanks I'll try that.
I did and it worked. Great wee video, I liked that as well as being strong and dedicated they were having a good laugh too.
Post edited at 19:53
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Absolutely. Jerry was brilliant at being, well, Jerry... (Bless him.)
Mick
> Plus the quintessential Jerryness of being Jerry.
Absolutely. Jerry was brilliant at being, well, Jerry... (Bless him.)
Mick
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In reply to UKC News:
Old school cellar action. Bit of class. Makes me want to get back into it.
Great share.
Old school cellar action. Bit of class. Makes me want to get back into it.
Great share.
In reply to UKC News:
>we talked about whether the likes of Ben and Jerry were as strong as today's best. Alex' opinion was that they were, if not stronger.
Maybe ask Stuart Cameron what he thinks?!
Great little vid.
jcm
>we talked about whether the likes of Ben and Jerry were as strong as today's best. Alex' opinion was that they were, if not stronger.
Maybe ask Stuart Cameron what he thinks?!
Great little vid.
jcm
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In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Probably thinks they're a,"bit slappy. They've climbed the hard routes but they don't really have strength - they just slap."
Quote from 'the young ones' ote 32. Possibly regretted.
Probably thinks they're a,"bit slappy. They've climbed the hard routes but they don't really have strength - they just slap."
Quote from 'the young ones' ote 32. Possibly regretted.
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In reply to Mick Ward:
Looks like Jerry had staff in his cellar (looking suspiciously like Zippy) cleaning the holds for him in between tries. Just like the World Cup!
Looks like Jerry had staff in his cellar (looking suspiciously like Zippy) cleaning the holds for him in between tries. Just like the World Cup!
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Yep, definitely a Zippy spotting. Nowt changes!
My how those boys could/can crank...
Mick
Yep, definitely a Zippy spotting. Nowt changes!
My how those boys could/can crank...
Mick
In reply to UKC News:
In the early 1980s I lived in Sheffield - the house had a garage underneath it with a long wall running up a corridor under the whole length of the building. Myself and Graham Parkes who lived across the road built a long climbing traverse along the wall, painted it all white (textured with sand) so we could see what we were doing in the gloom, added a pull-up bar, heater and sound system - and spent the winter in there.
One of my lodgers was Mark Stokes and his mate Jerry visited him one day, popping into the garage to see what were were up to.
And the rest is history..........
Chris
In the early 1980s I lived in Sheffield - the house had a garage underneath it with a long wall running up a corridor under the whole length of the building. Myself and Graham Parkes who lived across the road built a long climbing traverse along the wall, painted it all white (textured with sand) so we could see what we were doing in the gloom, added a pull-up bar, heater and sound system - and spent the winter in there.
One of my lodgers was Mark Stokes and his mate Jerry visited him one day, popping into the garage to see what were were up to.
And the rest is history..........
Chris
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In reply to Chris Craggs:
So, Chris, you're claiming credit for Statement of Youth, Agincourt, Revelations............... I knew those boyz couldn't have done it alone!
> And the rest is history..........
So, Chris, you're claiming credit for Statement of Youth, Agincourt, Revelations............... I knew those boyz couldn't have done it alone!
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In reply to jon:
Well I guess they had to take the idea, refine it, steepen it and put the hours in - but credit where due
Chris
Well I guess they had to take the idea, refine it, steepen it and put the hours in - but credit where due
Chris
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In reply to Mick Ward:
Mick, at least one of them still can. Frustrating isn't it?
Paul
> Yep, definitely a Zippy spotting. Nowt changes!
> My how those boys could/can crank...
> Mick
Mick, at least one of them still can. Frustrating isn't it?
Paul
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In reply to jon:
There's a Wolfgang Gullich quote on the Kraft website, 'I absolutely took inspiration for the Campus Board from a house cellar wall in Hunters Bar. Without Chris Craggs, I couldn't have sent Action Direkte'
> So, Chris, you're claiming credit for Statement of Youth, Agincourt, Revelations............... I knew those boyz couldn't have done it alone!
There's a Wolfgang Gullich quote on the Kraft website, 'I absolutely took inspiration for the Campus Board from a house cellar wall in Hunters Bar. Without Chris Craggs, I couldn't have sent Action Direkte'
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In reply to aln:
Apologies for the confusion. My comment means the same as stated in the first definition meaning:
[I'm] "...expressing a lack of interest or enthusiasm."
Apologies for the confusion. My comment means the same as stated in the first definition meaning:
[I'm] "...expressing a lack of interest or enthusiasm."
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In reply to Mick Ward:
did I also briefly spot 'Kingfisher' half way through, or was it 'Queen Quent'?
did I also briefly spot 'Kingfisher' half way through, or was it 'Queen Quent'?
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
You're right - does look suspiciously like Quent - along with Zippy, pissing himself laughing at Ben Moon going for his second one-armer... like you do.
Last saw Quent at the Stoney reunion that Phil Kelly magically made happen. We were going up to Windy Ledge and he looked down and muttered, "It's got narrower." (Which was exactly what I'd been thinking.) It seemed to sum up everything about us all growing older.
Apropos of that weekend, I've got a horrible feeling that you were the physics professor with whom I was drunkenly arguing about... physics! Am still cringing about that one.
'In vino (non) veritas.'
Mick
You're right - does look suspiciously like Quent - along with Zippy, pissing himself laughing at Ben Moon going for his second one-armer... like you do.
Last saw Quent at the Stoney reunion that Phil Kelly magically made happen. We were going up to Windy Ledge and he looked down and muttered, "It's got narrower." (Which was exactly what I'd been thinking.) It seemed to sum up everything about us all growing older.
Apropos of that weekend, I've got a horrible feeling that you were the physics professor with whom I was drunkenly arguing about... physics! Am still cringing about that one.
'In vino (non) veritas.'
Mick
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In reply to Mick Ward:
Brilliant! Yes, that along with steeper, harder... and when you can't get up your own routes that you've done hundreds of times... well that really brings it home!
> "It's got narrower." (Which was exactly what I'd been thinking.) It seemed to sum up everything about us all growing older.
Brilliant! Yes, that along with steeper, harder... and when you can't get up your own routes that you've done hundreds of times... well that really brings it home!
In reply to Fraser:
[I'm] "...expressing a lack of interest or enthusiasm."
Expressing a lack of soul and sense of humour...
[I'm] "...expressing a lack of interest or enthusiasm."
Expressing a lack of soul and sense of humour...
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In reply to jon:
'Tho' much is taken, much abides; and tho'
We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are;
One equal temper of heroic hearts,
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.'
The joy of struggle remains...
Mick
'Tho' much is taken, much abides; and tho'
We are not now that strength which in old days
Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are;
One equal temper of heroic hearts,
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.'
The joy of struggle remains...
Mick
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In reply to FactorXXX:
What can I say, do you want me to fake some enthusiasm when it gave me none? I'm sorry to offend, but I was just being honest. I knew I'd get some flak for it but hey-ho, life goes on. I'm sure no-one really gives a monkey's what my opinion is!
> [I'm] "...expressing a lack of interest or enthusiasm."
> Expressing a lack of soul and sense of humour...
What can I say, do you want me to fake some enthusiasm when it gave me none? I'm sorry to offend, but I was just being honest. I knew I'd get some flak for it but hey-ho, life goes on. I'm sure no-one really gives a monkey's what my opinion is!
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In reply to Mick Ward:
Mick, I do have a Chair, but not in Physics, you must have buttonholed some other poor sap of a Prof!
> Apropos of that weekend, I've got a horrible feeling that you were the physics professor with whom I was drunkenly arguing about... physics! Am still cringing about that one.
> 'In vino (non) veritas.'
> Mick
Mick, I do have a Chair, but not in Physics, you must have buttonholed some other poor sap of a Prof!
In reply to Fraser:
What can I say, do you want me to fake some enthusiasm when it gave me none? I'm sorry to offend, but I was just being honest. I knew I'd get some flak for it but hey-ho, life goes on. I'm sure no-one really gives a monkey's what my opinion is!
Not offended, more bemused. Anyway, it was a tongue in cheek comment and perhaps I should have put a smiley at the end?
PS. At least they're underground for a good purpose, unlike those weirdoes called cavers!
What can I say, do you want me to fake some enthusiasm when it gave me none? I'm sorry to offend, but I was just being honest. I knew I'd get some flak for it but hey-ho, life goes on. I'm sure no-one really gives a monkey's what my opinion is!
Not offended, more bemused. Anyway, it was a tongue in cheek comment and perhaps I should have put a smiley at the end?
PS. At least they're underground for a good purpose, unlike those weirdoes called cavers!
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Evidently! He was ever such a nice character, lived at Stoney, had bunked off school back in the early 80s to go climbing. I've always imagined it was you. Now that it isn't, I feel less embarrassed. Mind you, Quent's a Prof as well, and he had to endure my inchoate ramblings (and that was before we'd even got to the pub. Was it The Moon... or where The Moon used to be?)
What an interesting thread this has proved to be. Chris invented cellars (as well as going to Spain), Mark brings Jerry round and, a quarter of a century later, we're still spending far too much time in 'em (cellars, that is - as well as Spain).
Mind you, the cellar gods smiled at me this evening - and that's a (very) rare event nowadays.
Mick
Evidently! He was ever such a nice character, lived at Stoney, had bunked off school back in the early 80s to go climbing. I've always imagined it was you. Now that it isn't, I feel less embarrassed. Mind you, Quent's a Prof as well, and he had to endure my inchoate ramblings (and that was before we'd even got to the pub. Was it The Moon... or where The Moon used to be?)
What an interesting thread this has proved to be. Chris invented cellars (as well as going to Spain), Mark brings Jerry round and, a quarter of a century later, we're still spending far too much time in 'em (cellars, that is - as well as Spain).
Mind you, the cellar gods smiled at me this evening - and that's a (very) rare event nowadays.
Mick
In reply to UKC News:
Lovely to see the guys back in the day
In some ways I'm glad they branched out into ice cream. They must have made a packet. I suppose the physical decline was bound to go along with that but its a shame to see bodies change shape so markedly.
Lovely to see the guys back in the day
In some ways I'm glad they branched out into ice cream. They must have made a packet. I suppose the physical decline was bound to go along with that but its a shame to see bodies change shape so markedly.
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In reply to Mick Ward:
The Moon is still there, it's the Royal Oak across the road from Stoney Chippy which has gone, turned back into cottages and flats. I live about 15 mins walk away across the fields.
Back in the day I was living (and working!) in Nottingham, then coming out to Stoney at the weekend, sharing the woodshed or the garage forecourt with the full time UB40 Crew including Jerry.
We would drink in the Royal Oak because the beer and lock in were better than the Moon. Happy days.
I've got a decent sized bouldering cave in my garage which I'm renaming the 'Craggs Cave'
The Moon is still there, it's the Royal Oak across the road from Stoney Chippy which has gone, turned back into cottages and flats. I live about 15 mins walk away across the fields.
Back in the day I was living (and working!) in Nottingham, then coming out to Stoney at the weekend, sharing the woodshed or the garage forecourt with the full time UB40 Crew including Jerry.
We would drink in the Royal Oak because the beer and lock in were better than the Moon. Happy days.
I've got a decent sized bouldering cave in my garage which I'm renaming the 'Craggs Cave'
In reply to Laramadness:
available on the Kafe Kraggs website
> Has anyone got a copy of 'Gimme Craggs' they can sell me?
available on the Kafe Kraggs website
In reply to Mick Ward:
Not sure we invented them - but just maybe. Amazingly as it now seems, we used to go to a 'proper' climbing wall once a week - fill the car up and head to either Barnsley or Bradford for a sess on a concrete wall and have a curry afterwards.
How times change!
Chris
> What an interesting thread this has proved to be. Chris invented cellars (as well as going to Spain), Mark brings Jerry round and, a quarter of a century later, we're still spending far too much time in 'em (cellars, that is - as well as Spain).
Not sure we invented them - but just maybe. Amazingly as it now seems, we used to go to a 'proper' climbing wall once a week - fill the car up and head to either Barnsley or Bradford for a sess on a concrete wall and have a curry afterwards.
How times change!
Chris
In reply to UKC News:
Jerry was just training for his finest hour - this
youtube.com/watch?v=Q7zY8SugOAY&
Jerry was just training for his finest hour - this
youtube.com/watch?v=Q7zY8SugOAY&
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In reply to Hat Dude:
I bought some of the pannels from a cellar near Hunters' Bar that were from that show. I sold them on in the late 90's to a guy from SCUM - (Danny?).
We added lots of holds to them, many with female names of girls we knew (several of which my housemates went on to marry!)
I wonder if they are still around some cellar in Sheffield?
James
I bought some of the pannels from a cellar near Hunters' Bar that were from that show. I sold them on in the late 90's to a guy from SCUM - (Danny?).
We added lots of holds to them, many with female names of girls we knew (several of which my housemates went on to marry!)
I wonder if they are still around some cellar in Sheffield?
James
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In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Right, you can have Craggs Cave 1. I'll remame ours' Craggs Cave 2 and 3. (Yeah, I know, but we need two, in fact we need every last thing going!) The rest of the world can have Craggs Cave 4, 5, 6, etc. First come, first served. Stake yer claims, boyz 'n girlz...
Mick
> I've got a decent sized bouldering cave in my garage which I'm renaming the 'Craggs Cave'
Right, you can have Craggs Cave 1. I'll remame ours' Craggs Cave 2 and 3. (Yeah, I know, but we need two, in fact we need every last thing going!) The rest of the world can have Craggs Cave 4, 5, 6, etc. First come, first served. Stake yer claims, boyz 'n girlz...
Mick
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Oh, ffs, this is no time to go all shy and modest, just lie back and take the credit and revel in it all. Somebody must have invented 'em and, as Gary keeps telling me, if no other bugger's staked a claim, well get yours' in.
So, that's sorted then - in the absence of any other evidence, you invented 'em! ('Cos somebody must have.)
'Proper' walls, bah, you just get weak (but fit). Loved the Bradford one though; it saw my finest hour and my one and only effort at climbing while under the influence of acid. (Don't try this one, folks.)
Mick
> Not sure we invented them - but just maybe.
Oh, ffs, this is no time to go all shy and modest, just lie back and take the credit and revel in it all. Somebody must have invented 'em and, as Gary keeps telling me, if no other bugger's staked a claim, well get yours' in.
So, that's sorted then - in the absence of any other evidence, you invented 'em! ('Cos somebody must have.)
'Proper' walls, bah, you just get weak (but fit). Loved the Bradford one though; it saw my finest hour and my one and only effort at climbing while under the influence of acid. (Don't try this one, folks.)
Mick
In reply to Removed User:
Ah well, as related by Chrissy Dorn to yours truly, the secret weapon which (she swore!) Jerry and Ben Moon both possessed were the first three fingers of equal length - thus perfect for crimping.
I guess this is easily verifiable. Personally I thought it was bollocks (but was far too polite to say so) and never got round to investigating.
But, as this place reqularly gets invaded by sprogs avid for a jammy bit of 'academic' < coughs discreetly > research, well feel free...
Mick
> Seriously intense 90s Euro belay bunny!
Ah well, as related by Chrissy Dorn to yours truly, the secret weapon which (she swore!) Jerry and Ben Moon both possessed were the first three fingers of equal length - thus perfect for crimping.
I guess this is easily verifiable. Personally I thought it was bollocks (but was far too polite to say so) and never got round to investigating.
But, as this place reqularly gets invaded by sprogs avid for a jammy bit of 'academic' < coughs discreetly > research, well feel free...
Mick
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In reply to james mann:
I thought that was a sort of joke.
I did read his later comment on it, somewhere on the internet but don't know where.
> Probably thinks they're a,"bit slappy. They've climbed the hard routes but they don't really have strength - they just slap."
> Quote from 'the young ones' ote 32. Possibly regretted.
I thought that was a sort of joke.
I did read his later comment on it, somewhere on the internet but don't know where.
In reply to Mick Ward:
Interesting - Mark Stokes once told me he couldn't do Ontos (Bamford) when the rest of the team had managed it because his 'thumb wasn't long enough".
Could be a whole new field of research (and excuses) that we have stumbled on
Chris
> Ah well, as related by Chrissy Dorn to yours truly, the secret weapon which (she swore!) Jerry and Ben Moon both possessed were the first three fingers of equal length - thus perfect for crimping.
Interesting - Mark Stokes once told me he couldn't do Ontos (Bamford) when the rest of the team had managed it because his 'thumb wasn't long enough".
Could be a whole new field of research (and excuses) that we have stumbled on
Chris
Post edited at 08:37
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In reply to Mick Ward:
Actually, from my hazy memory Mick, I do believe Nick Plishko & I had the very first garage board in Sheffield. It was suspended from ropes and swung around. Think there's a video on YouTube or Vimeo of it somewhere?
Jez, and the Chrises - Gore and Hamper, then others built theirs. We used to train at each others' ...
Now where's that video?
Cheers,
Andy.
Actually, from my hazy memory Mick, I do believe Nick Plishko & I had the very first garage board in Sheffield. It was suspended from ropes and swung around. Think there's a video on YouTube or Vimeo of it somewhere?
Jez, and the Chrises - Gore and Hamper, then others built theirs. We used to train at each others' ...
Now where's that video?
Cheers,
Andy.
Post edited at 11:54
In reply to AP Melbourne:
So are you saying that Chris Craggs isn't the Godfather of sport climbing, after all?
So are you saying that Chris Craggs isn't the Godfather of sport climbing, after all?
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In reply to jon:
No Jon, far from it.
Whether it be a cellar brick wall, his aid routes out in the Peak or our board, without Chris British climbing would be ... answers on the back of a fifty.
Cheers,
Andy.
No Jon, far from it.
Whether it be a cellar brick wall, his aid routes out in the Peak or our board, without Chris British climbing would be ... answers on the back of a fifty.
Cheers,
Andy.
In reply to jon:
Sport climbing? Wash your mouth out - our wall was for Traditionalists only - we even had runner slots for practising placing gear when you were really pumped!
Chris
> So are you saying that Chris Craggs isn't the Godfather of sport climbing, after all?
Sport climbing? Wash your mouth out - our wall was for Traditionalists only - we even had runner slots for practising placing gear when you were really pumped!
Chris
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In reply to AP Melbourne:
Hi Andy, from my hazy memory, Geraldine dragged me up (I think it was) Hunter House Road to have a look at this great new 'training board' that was suspended in a garage. The garage doors seemed to be permanently open whenever I went past, with a varied bunch training away. Was that your house? It's ever such a long time ago!
> Actually, from my hazy memory Mick, I do believe Nick Plishko & I had the very first garage board in Sheffield. It was suspended from ropes and swung around. Think there's a video on YouTube or Vimeo of it somewhere?
Hi Andy, from my hazy memory, Geraldine dragged me up (I think it was) Hunter House Road to have a look at this great new 'training board' that was suspended in a garage. The garage doors seemed to be permanently open whenever I went past, with a varied bunch training away. Was that your house? It's ever such a long time ago!
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Sandford Grove Rd actually Paul but a great board until it burned down. Built a better, solid one and yeah, it was fre-'Quent-ed' by the great and good of the scene back then.
Such a fantastic way to get fitter & stronger in comfort ... am sure our lungs suffered from all the chalk dust in a confined space though, hence doors always open.
Actually, we were posing for the two cuties who lived in our street, Ha!
Cheers,
Andy.
Sandford Grove Rd actually Paul but a great board until it burned down. Built a better, solid one and yeah, it was fre-'Quent-ed' by the great and good of the scene back then.
Such a fantastic way to get fitter & stronger in comfort ... am sure our lungs suffered from all the chalk dust in a confined space though, hence doors always open.
Actually, we were posing for the two cuties who lived in our street, Ha!
Cheers,
Andy.
In reply to James Edwards:
Some of the holds on my home wall are ancient, grey moulded holds with names written on in felt tip. Some pretty big slopers.
They came via the guys at the climbing works when they were having a clear out.
Paul
> I bought some of the pannels from a cellar near Hunters' Bar that were from that show. I sold them on in the late 90's to a guy from SCUM - (Danny?).
> We added lots of holds to them, many with female names of girls we knew (several of which my housemates went on to marry!)
> I wonder if they are still around some cellar in Sheffield?
> James
James, a long shot, were they wooden or moulded? Some of the holds on my home wall are ancient, grey moulded holds with names written on in felt tip. Some pretty big slopers.
They came via the guys at the climbing works when they were having a clear out.
Paul
Yeah, great video.
The problem with Andy's board was that it moved around all over the place. If you timed it right you could catch the next hold as is swung through its equilibrium position.
Chris Gore had one in his cellar with real climbing wall holds on it. Now where did they come from?
Ben's was just a roof but they all used their feet on it piff. It was in a slightly damp cellar with poor lighting and little space.
Jerry's was a bit narrow and he'd practice his problems all the time so no one else could get a look in. Jerry's was in a real room with windows. luxury.
Mine was unfortunately in Rotherham. I built it with Rob Scaife who was a pupil at the school I was teaching at. It didn't wobble, was not damp, had a proper Gym mat and nicely sanded holds (made in the woodwork room). To be honest it was a bit better than the others. I worked out a long long sequence ready for a visit by Ben, took me ages to wire. Ben visited and I pulled a muscle in my shoulder.
After moving to Wales I returned in the college van to reclaim the board and rebuilt it at Atlantic college. Ben Heason uses to hang on it from time to time. When I left I bolted some of the holds underneath a table in one of the study rooms to create a desperate little roof problem. Eugene Jones bought it off me maybe he still has it?
Post edited at 11:47
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In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Hi, a mixture, but mostly wooden.
They had the blue colour on one side as seen the video I think.
I bet they are still lurking in some student doss somewhere in Broomhill.
James
Hi, a mixture, but mostly wooden.
They had the blue colour on one side as seen the video I think.
I bet they are still lurking in some student doss somewhere in Broomhill.
James
In reply to chrishamper:
This is brilliantly innovative. You should contact IKEA with it. Dining tables will never be the same.
> When I left I bolted some of the holds underneath a table in one of the study rooms to create a desperate little roof problem. ?
This is brilliantly innovative. You should contact IKEA with it. Dining tables will never be the same.
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