UKC

Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=640221
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
Hello fitclubbers, Hope everyone had a good week.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Pysche video for the week http://www.climbing.com/videos/james-mchaffie-on-the-meltdown-5-14d/
I'm a bit pushed for time, so haven't chosen anything timely. I expect many will have seen it, but James McHaffie on Meltdown is certainly worth rewatching.

Mattrm Your post inspired me to look up Western Front Direct. I hadn’t heard of it before, but it looks like a great route.
Si dH Nice work ticking all those boulders. Wrights Traverse sounds ace and is probably great prep for sport climbing.
Humptydumpty Agree with Si here, if you're flashing 6b+ on your first day then 7a sounds like a much more realistic goal.
Biscuit Sounds like a great set of opportunities to push towards 8a.
Hms Hope the finger improves, but at least you can get out climbing.
Ally Smith Thanks for the beta on Aberration. I thought the sequence was pretty complex, so doing it so quickly sounds like a great achievement. The boulder sessions sounded pretty immense.
Ian Bell Winspit in the sun can be pretty hot! I’d be really curious about climbing in Romania. It’s not a common climbing destination and it would be great to hear what it’s like.
Heelhookofglory Sounds like a great week. Glad the race went well.
Dandan82 The 8a indoor route sounds like great training. Getting it in 2 hangs on your 2nd go is pretty impressive.
Curious Yellow Looks like a decent week. What are your current goals?
James Moyle Hope the finger is feeling better
Hokkyokusei Hope you enjoyed the rest of your trip to Venice and that the shinsplints are improving.
Tyler The joys of redpointing. Atomically small progress is better than no progress.
Tintin I’m sure you’ll adapt to two footed climbing pretty fast and hopefully be climbing hard soon.

In reply to TonyB:

Cheers Tony. A disrupted week for me.

Nowhere near as much done as planned on the biking front - work was hectic and I find if my plans get disrupted I struggle to get psyche on for alternatives so if for example I get stuck in too late for a long ride I just end up thinking "I'm knackered, I'll just go home" rather than substituting for a shorter ride. Still, I've got 2 days riding this weekend, a day of the bank holiday, and this week I really will get out midweek.

Climbing wise I did a pair of fingerboard sessions, both AnCap 10:3 sessions at 63% (84.5kg so bw+Harness/etc+10kg the first time, but +7.5 the second time after some epic BBQ gluttony meant I was carrying the extra internally). Getting the first set (5x10:3) clean, very near to the second set, tailing off a bit in the last 2, both times, although today was notably worse. However, I was completing this but having to work at it at bodyweight last summer (weird calculations of max hang when rehabbing and on a different hold), so that's a definite step up. I might try to do a session at about 60% this week to see if I can complete as that would give me a comparable measure.

Hopefully a last push this week should see the house move all but complete. It's been good to have time to organise things a bit better but it has made organising my mid weeks a bit harder. So, plan for this week is:
- smash the rest of the house tidying - hopefully only a final cleanup session left for next week? Get on top of some of the admin which has been falling behind too.
- at least one longer evening cycle ride, plus somehow survive a tough double riding weekend
- 2 fingerboard sessions, maybe one max hangs one AnCap, and perhaps try some weights too. Or swap one of those for the wall if I get time

In reply to TonyB:

Cheers Tony.

A bobbins week as predicted. 1 aerocap session - 2 x 20mins on 6b on auto belay. Felt OK.
1 ancap session - foot off campus laddering. Hardly had anytime after warming up so did 1 set, 40s rest x 5. Failed on rung 8 on last set.

That was it.

Out of old house now and in amongst a giant pile of boxes. Timetable looks impossible again this week so it'll be maintenance but 27th May is when college finishes and I get my life back and get to go outside again and train properly.

Got the first part of my assessment this week from coach Kettle so something to look forward to for sure. I have a feeling my results will be on the low side for an aspirant 8a climber :-/

In reply to TonyB:

M: Rest
T: Short Depot session
W: Yoga followed by an hour at the Depot
T: Short Depot session
F: Rest
S: Kilnsey, felt lethargic only managed to get to crux from ground on the last attempt and then forgot my sequence.
S: Moving furniture from one house to another. Had little time for more than a warm up but managed to complete the purple 7a+ circuit and one of the purple up problems I'd not done before.

In reply to TonyB:

STGs (last week):
* don't get injured [TICK!]
* shoulder rehab every day [FAIL]
* yoga every weekday [FAIL]
* get on some 7as and see what happens! [TICK!]

STGs (this week):
* redpoint 7a!
* try to onsight 6c+
* yoga 3 days
* onsight Tales of Greek Heroes (6b+)
* revise long-term goals..?!

MTGs (end of June):
* finish Clockwork Orange, a 50-move problem at the local wall
* tick 50% of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1390
* learn how to fall off sport climbs

LTGs (end of 2016)
* redpoint F7a
* tick 20 routes on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1391
* climb Punsola-Reniu (aid allowed!)


M: had a play on a 7a on toprope. Took a bit of working out, and would likely take a few more goes to link the whole thing - strenuous! short run, dip in the sea and quick yoga in PM
T: 6a, 6b+ onsight; nothing else
W: first go on the 7a on lead. fell at the crux; linked from just under the crux to the top. shoulder rehab (3 sets)
T: multipitch, swinging leads with a first-timer - relaxing
F: another crack at the project; felt harder than Wednesday! First go: crap footwork; second go: tired. But now confident of everything except the crux move. Yoga PM
S: multipitch limestone in the rain - character building!
S: quiet couple of routes and general relaxing


A satisfying week, although looking back I realise how few routes I wound up climbing due to focussing on a specific one. It could go tomorrow morning, or it could take a couple more sessions. Started trying really hard on tenuous moves, took some big falls, and really enjoying getting to know a route so well - am I turning into a sport climber?!

In reply to TonyB:

Thanks for doing the stats Tony. Been back on Aberration again?

STGs (next 1-2 months):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- More Churnet or Peak Lime Ft7Bs and hopefully Ft7B+s
- Arch Enemies (7c+)

MTGs (2016):
- F8a
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

LTG (2017): TBC

M: shoulder rehab
T: fingerboard, repeaters session. Did 3 sets of 6 reps of 7on/3off, first with half crimp on an 18mm edge, then repeated it all with front 3 on the large beastmaker pocket, then again with back 3. Felt tired but just about managed not to fail on any sets, which is an improvement on a couple of weeks earlier. Perhaps time to change it up a bit next time I use the fingerboard.
W: rest
T: after work session at Raven Tor. Tried Rattle and Hump Start (f7A+) again but can't do it. I've had enough of it now - admittedly conditions were fairly poor (too hot) but even so, I think it's just really hard, and it's aggravating my shoulder a bit. Also, the guy I was trying it with got no further than me, and his current project is Waddage, which is Tor 8b! Got a good consolation prize though by doing Saline Drip (Sit Start) (f7B) (it's actually 7A+) pretty quickly. Couldn't quite make the reach to do this in the easiest way (which I think would be soft for the grade) but managed to get past it with a minor bit of foot trickery. Good problem and not as single-move-powerful as most at the Tor.
F: rest
S: morning session on Eastwood Traverse. Really promising - I managed to do all the moves, and put a couple of reasonable links together. It's not as long as I'd remembered from a brief visit a couple of years aback. Overall I felt it was no harder than Moffatrocity, maybe even slightly easier, but obviously quite a different style. It could go quite quickly with good conditions and some mojo - I'm going to try to get back there after work Monday or Tuesday. If this is really meant to be worth F8a then I've got no excuses in 2016..!
S: rest, but of note I went for a walk through Dovedale. Arch Enemies is dry - am tempted to get on it next weekend if I can find a partner.

Also did a few other short bits of shoulder rehab work.

Injury catalogue: left index finger still the same. One day in the week (after Thursday's session I think) it actually felt slightly worse, but I'm hoping if I'm on Eastwood and routes for a week or two before doing more limestone bouldering, this might give it a rest. Same goes for my shoulder which was bad earlier in the week but has since recovered again. I think Rattle & Hump was aggravating it because of the really repetitive powerful movement on the left arm.

Weight last Sunday night was 11st 1lb. Decent further progress in the last week (actually weighed in at 10st13 last night, but I think this was a 'fluke').

Si

In reply to humptydumpty: . Started trying really hard on tenuous moves, took some big falls, and really enjoying getting to know a route so well - am I turning into a sport climber?!

Sounds like it Good effort.

In reply to TonyB:

Cheer Tony, it's a nice steady route, it may be a bit soft but its great practice.

M: Fingerboard and bodyweight antagonists; had to move to a smaller hold for the fingerboarding as I was finding the original too easy (I'm doing the CWP 10 sec hold program, had good results in the past) which is great progress.
Only managed 2 10 second handstands although I have started kicking up into them instead of pushing off a wall which makes things a bit harder.

T: Indoor routes; went for a hard problems session, warmed up and got on the 8a, did it in 1 hang! I also figured out a much easier sequence for the top so I can see this going clean soon, very exciting!
I also worked all the moves on a much more bouldery, slopey 7c, and repeated a 7b that I only just scraped up a couple of weeks ago, really good progress!

W: Gym; bench, deadlift, dumbbell press, rowing machine. Quite enjoying deadlift, apparently its a good antagonist/all round exercise and I'm terrible at it so I think that working on improving it will be beneficial to my general fitness and muscle balance.

T: Indoor routes; 4x4s, I was feeling a little bit off the boil, felt like a cold was incoming, but I still managed 4x 6c+, 4x 7a (much more easily than last time, same route), 2x 7a+, 4x 6c.
The 2x 7a+ was tough but not impossible, due to not feeling top notch I decided not to push on and do any more reps, i'll save it for next week.

F: Surprise surprise, I got a cold. Time for some rest, probably about due really.

S: Snotty rest, did a bit of DIY, finished panelling the hall wall to hide the toilet door.

S: Mostly rest but couldn't resist a quick fingerboard. Feeling better.

A good week for progress, stronger fingerboarding, harder 4x4's, progress on the indoor 8a, shame we couldn't top it off with a trip outside at the weekend but I'm sure the rest will be appreciated.
The elbows have been really good, getting more and more resilient but I'm not ready to treat them as 'fixed' quite yet, weirdly 2 days of rest have resulted in the right one being a little delicate this morning, I have to make sure that I do the latest exercises for them even when I'm resting, they seem to do best when I'm pushing them daily.

Last weeks STG:
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside) - 2/3 no trip outside
5x10 second free handstands - 2/5
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed - NOPE
Repeat 4x7a laps - TICK
Get back on the indoor 8a - TICK, progress!

This weeks STG:
Climb 3 times
5x10 second free handstands
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed
Do 4x7a+ laps

MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - nearly there
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan - Physio says not quite yet
Get outside a couple of times - 3/2 - hoping to get out next weekend too!
Lap 7b four times -


LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick B£me Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds

BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...

Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/15*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between

In reply to TonyB:


STG = keep up training but also be sensible enough to skip a day if body demands.
MTG = Another 7a+ in Romania (going for 3 days around 2nd May bank holiday).
LTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 1x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40

Hi all

Mon - rest
Tues - c30 mins fingerboard repeaters (7 secs on, 3 off). 4x4 boulder and then some route doubles. Got proper finger fade at the end
Weds - c90 mins strength and conditioning (sit ups, weights etc)
Thurs - c30 mins fingerboard max hangs. 4x4 boulders after. Again quite knackered by the end.
Sat / Sun - visit to Llanmynech quarry and the Grid Iron Wall. Good venue, excellent 35m routes. A bit run out but just adds to the character. Onsighted / almost OS some 6b+ & 6c routes incl Curfew (6b+), Grid Iron (6c) & A Night Torchlight Parade (6c). Then tried Incy Wincy Spider (7a+) (nails crux move I had to aid) and Strawberry Tubin (7b). Had a couple of goes on Strawberry Tubin and think it will go in a few more goes, felt the benefit of the fingerboarding.

Elbows grumbling a little so will be careful of that this week and hopefully get out on Saturday.

Will definitely report back from Romania. We're going to this place

youtube.com/watch?v=dHaNGTZWIxY&

a couple of my friends are from near there and some of their friends actually bolted a lot of it so will at least have local guides! only 2 weeks to go now.

In reply to TonyB:

Thanks for the stats Tony. Finger less niggly I think, and by taping the lower knuckle I seem to be able to control it. So then was annoyed that the shoulder had a bit of a mini flare-up, mainly due to me being stupid and not doing regular rehab cos it wasn't hurting (I'm sure physios hear that sort of tale of woe so often!). Hope I've caught it in time and am now rehabbing like crazy again.

M - cycle commute. Core & weights.
T - cycle commute, got soaked both ways. TCA trying the V3-V5 problems. Got ~10, very close on about another 4, most of the rest seem extremely hard. Shoulder started whinging, boo.
W - cycle commute, got soaked both ways. Should rehab.
T - Cycle commute, on to UCR, warm-up then 10 circuits 1on:1off using the 6c+ & 7a. Was managing to get into high 30s even on my final goes. Rest whilst a school group used the board (and a bit of blatant showing off too - the best of the teenage boys could do 5 pullups, so I did 10 whilst they counted). The 8min on/8min off x 3 on the 6b. Shoulder rehab in the evening.
F - 5 miles walking, shoulder rehab, core.
S - Navigation with CY. Did the 7a second go - it was totally chalk free and I got the crux sequences wrong on go one. Also a 6c OS which felt incredibly hard & thin so I was plased to get.
S - Armistice with CY. Back on Remembrance (7c) for the first time since October. Could remember the hands although they seem to have mysteriously shrunk over the winter. Feet had to be painfully worked out from scratch again. Now have a sequence that is steady for the crux, but there is a worryingly on-off move at bolt4 (before I can clip it) which I need to sort. Only TR today but need to get back on lead v soon.

So nice to get out on rock. As Armistice is close to my home, hope I may be able to ask for a quick belay from husband or D2 over the summer.

In reply to TonyB:

Thanks for the stats Tony

Week 20:
M - 60min “active shoulder proprioceptive rehab” - AKA raking moss out of the lawn
T - Malham after work. Back on the project. #1 got draws in and dogged crux. #2 equal high-point; fumbled the incut. #3 – barely get the gaston; sit on the rope and re-work crux #4 – success (beta tweak made all the difference).Baba O'Riley (8a) is born. Got back on Bat Route for a furtle – make a hash of the 7b start. Pretty low on power but do the individual moves on the roof section – need to work some links…
W - Rest. Excellent big band jazz concert with the lady.
T - Hectic day at work; got out late so pootled up to CyL for an evening boulder. Bit smeggy. Did start to wobbly block after warming up, but slipped off immediately after. Re-worked and swapped foothold for these moves. Rested, then did Middle Bit plus (7c+) which didn’t feel much harder than Middle Bit (7c) now I’ve got the rests wired. Did some up bouldering with locals pointing out eliminate sequences, then finished with some beta tweaks on Bend of the Rainbow (V6) (cross under using middle to RH sloper). 10x 1on/1off plank variations when home.
F - An-cap fingerboard; 3x little edge +3kg; 4x slot @ 65% (+21kg) 10:3x4 with min rest. Then 10x 1on/1off aero-cap @bodyweight; mix of balls, slots and slopers (hard). Kettle bell shoulder press. Beer fest.
S - Rest – hangover – unexpected ab DOMS.
S - Kilnsey. 6cx2 warm-up. 7a+ and 7b+ dog, True South (7c) RP, Start investigating roof, next go started bolting roof but skinny sport climbing harness is not the thing to go aiding in and only get 3 bolts in.


Last/Next week’s goals:
Cycle >40miles total – complete fail – I will go out this evening, no matter what!
Edit skiing video - fail
3x rehab sessions – 2x only - repeat
1x an-cap - fingerboard, Depot or Cave? – tick - repeat
1x aero-cap - fingerboard, Depot or trad!?! – tick - repeat
2x mental rehearsal of project sequences – fail – repeat
RP the easier Malham potential project – hell yeah!

May goals:
Continued shoulder rehab and core fitness – yoga has been good; core feels like it’s very active and flexible, e.g. The Wire moves, but not strong like it used to
Continue to rehab strange finger tweak – mummy taping has stopped it getting worse, but it isn’t getting better very quickly
1x week an-cap fingerboard work-out
1x week aero-cap
Start to high Break, 8a+
Link Broken Heart into Almost Familiar, 8a+/b?
Link SSiC into CoF; 8a+/b?
Investigate/bolt the harder projects at Malham & Kilnsey; work in progress

In reply to TonyB:

After a couple of weeks out, I'm jumping back in. This isn't really the place for details, but a friend took a nasty groundfall a couple of weeks back, which left me a bit shaken up and mostly concerned with other things. He's now on the (long) road to recovery.

So, this week...
M - Bouldering, TCA. Ticked a few more on the V3-V5 (yellow) circuit, and a couple of Mothership problems.
T - Rest
W - 6km run, with a build through km 2-4, targeting 10k pace towards the end. Redpoint pm, some bouldering and a couple of (attempts at) routes on the comp wall
T - Rest
F - Went to Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry) for the first time. Did the two classic E3s (both very good, but felt rather soft) and got shut down on Red Rag to a Bull (E5 6b). Not much of a surprise, 6b is hard.
S - Rest
S - Bristol 10k. Just sneaked in below 40 minutes! (39:49 officially). I'm pleased with that, given that my training was a bit derailed back in March and never really got back on track.

In reply to Si dH:


I was in Wales this weekend so haven't had the chance to go back to Chee Dale. Great that Arch Enemies is dry. I would be keen to try it, but for the next few weeks I want to focus on Aberration. I've got at least one day free for the next five weekends, so if the weather is good and I can find the partners I hope to devote some serious time to it.

In reply to TonyB:

Thanks Tony. It was good to get outside at the weekend and do some trad leading on the grit…haven’t done trad since Morocco in October so it’s good to be back on my favourite discipline! For some reason I feel more into it/less likely to hurt myself there than making easy dynamic moves above mats in the gym. The walk ins were killer though, and after two days I have a seriously swollen ankle from pounding across the moors too heavily. In other news, very pleased that Women’s Climbing Symposium won best local initiative at the Women’s Sports Trust awards, so onwards and upwards planning this year’s event.

M – CapPow/ conditioning
T – AM 1 hour physio class at the hospital
PM fingerboard
W – 1on2off/Campus/Conditioning
T – rest.
F – Climbing Unit pink circuit to V4. A bit reticent to commit to dynamic moves at the top, and typically crap at sweaty slopers, but otherwise did most problems.
S – Stanage North – leading onsight to tech 5a
S – Stanage North – leading onsight to tech 5b

In reply to TonyB:

Back to posting. Quite a lot of rest this week as I was aiming for a good Bristol 10k on Sunday.

Monday - bouldering at TCA. Tried loads of stuff that was too hard for me. Managed a yellow (V3-5) which is always good going for me, and got a few from what seemed like the hard end of the blues (V1-3).

Tuesday - nothing.

Wednesday - taper run, 4.5km easy in 24:09.

Thursday - nothing.

Friday - taper run, 4.5km in 24:32, easy with some fast strides.

Saturday - nothing.

Sunday - Bristol 10k race, nearly a minute's PB with official time 46:28 (and watch got me at 45:54 for the unofficial 10k distance). Ran more or less exactly the race I planned (very flat splits) - very happy with this!

In reply to TonyB:

It's the second week in a row that I haven't managed my fingerboard session!

Mon great session on the short circuits with long rests. I'd been trying the first 12 moves on the 8a+ at the Climbing Station. The previous week, the best I done was link moves 1-11 moves once. This week I managed to link moves 1-12 five times. Followed by continuous climbing
Tue poor session on the short circuits with short rests. I'm doing this on the 7b+. I really struggle with the circuit. I got only linked the first 12 moves a few times. I'm not sure what it is, I just find the 11th move on this circuit really hard and unpredictable. I'm going to switch this circuit for a different one, because it isn't supposed to be cruxy, but for me I'm just really bad at one of the moves. Followed by continuous climbing.
Wed core
Thurs Boulders, long rests.
Fri rest
Sat Llanberis Slate. I've only climbed on slate once before. I did five routes upto 7a. I found it really difficult to start with, but seemed to improve during the course of the day. I had previously made the mistake of trying to get on a 6c+ as a second warm up route. The bolts were quite far apart, I was uncertain of the moves and decided to back off and progress through the grades a little more slowly. I enjoyed it and would be pretty keen to try and get more done on slate.
Sun Bouldering with the family at RAC boulders (more of a social boulder rather than one with any training/performance value) + core.

Aims for this week.
Training goals 4 training sessions (including fingerboard)
1 day out on rock, hopefully on Aberration
Progress on the short circuits/short rests (aim for 8 of 12 successful attempts)
Set new section of circuit for the short circuits/short rests

Medium term goal
Climb Aberration and set some new goals.

In reply to Si dH:


Oh dear...I think I might have been a bit over -enthusiastic last night. I'm currently sat resting under the boulder again and suddenly the crux even in isolation feels desperate!
Doh.

In reply to TonyB:

Thanks Tony. Spent more time on the bike this week and not enough climbing but it's been a nice change to ease back for a week. Back on it next week and I'd like to get on Too Drunk as I'm running out of time to get it done before it gets too warm. Might try some early / late sessions on it when it's cooler.

Mon: Nursing a cold
Tue: Nursing a cold
Wed: FTP power test on bike -- hate doing these!
Thu: AM: easy spin on bike / PM: Roaches Skyline bouldering. A lovely evening ticking some great problems on pristine rock. Why doesn't anyone climb at this end it's wonderful?
Fri: Rest
Sat: 1.5hrs MTB ride on the road.
Sun: Spent the day at Chatsworth International Horse Trials then a 1hr MTB ride late evening.

Aims For This Week:
Mobility drills, antagonists, stretching most days.
Climbing: 3x 1
Power test on the bike. TICK!
Have a go at Too Drunk.
Weight: maintain around 144 lbs TICK!

STGs (End June 2016):
Complete the Summer Classic May 22nd
Tick remaining indoor red circuit (V3/4) 4/20
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (green V5/6) 0/2
Get on a rope

MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Lead Dover's Wall, Route 1 S 4b (Stanage)
Lead Dover's Wall, Route 4 VS 4b (Stanage)
Get total trad routes up to 100 (lead, second, repeat or solo) 34/100

LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a HVS

BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
A Dream of White Horses
The Sloth

In reply to TonyB:
Current goal is basically head down and stick to the plan! Succeeding so far but not really thinking beyond that for now.

Mon: Rest.
Tues: 8 mins on, 8 mins off x3, boulder problem doubles.
Wedns: Footless bouldering - accidentally did double what I should have done. Boulder problem mileage.
Thurs: 8 mins on, 8 mins off x6. Feeling a bit broken.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Navigation Quarry. OS nice 6b and 6c, brilliant 7a 3rd go after messing up sequence and then breaking a foothold.
Sun: Armistice Wall. Figured out a sequence on Terrorist (7b/+), fingers pretty outraged by the smallness of the holds! Went home and did some core.

In reply to Curious Yellow:

for all its delightfulness, Navigation Quarry was definitely a helmets on venue!

In reply to TonyB:

Tony are you ok to do the stats next week? Let me know when you get bored and I can take over for a while.

I've not seen Alex around these parts in the last couple of weeks, I hope he isn't AWOL because of anything serious...

In reply to Dandan:

I'm happy to do the stats for the next few weeks/months. It'll be great if you can take over at some stage.

In reply to Curious Yellow:


I know the feeling. My goals are really light. I said many years ago that I'd like to climb 8a before I'm 40. At the time it felt a long way off and not very feasible. Now it feels a short way off (being 40 not climbing 8a) and plausible (climbing 8a not being 40), I don't have much energy for any other goals.

In reply to TonyB:

I know this feeling too but, as long as you've got short term goals that motivate you, I don't think it matters. I have never had a BHAG for example because I feel it constrains me too much - I work better with a general long term goal of continually improving, along with in-year goals (or even just month to month) of what inspires me at the time.

In reply to TonyB:

Hey fitclubbers, don't know if I was supposed to be doing FC last week? I thought my deal was I'd do it for a few weeks and then Dandan would take over for a while but maybe there was some miscommunication! Anyway, sorry for my role in that fiasco. Decent couple of weeks for me, lots of climbing but going to need to take it easy for a while as my elbows have started to twinge again.

Slow start to the week as I was in Rome with the girlfriend eating heinous amounts of pizza. Did manage to send a couple of the reds at the Arch which I was mega stoked about. Managed to get out to North Wales on the weekend though, got some decent ticking.

S: Link-up on Idwal - Tennis Shoe (HS 4b), Original Route (VS 5a), Continuation Crack (HVS 5a), then over to Glyder Fawr to do the mind-bindingly bold Grey Arête (HVS 5a). More like E1 5a?
S: Nea (VS 4b) followed by Lorraine (VS 4c) before an early drive home to London to beat the traffic.

In reply to TonyB:

Tony, that must be a first for me to have inspired anyone for any reason. It's a really good route. I've done most of it in bits in the past, just got to get off me bum and do it in one go. Thanks for doing the stats.

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
SMART Goals:
3 core session (or tip runs) - 1
1 climb - yes
1 run/bike/longish walk - no

Weight - 13st - no more cake Mr FattyFatMcFatFat!

M - Rest
T - Core
W - Rest
T - Trad on Gower
F - S - Rest

Very lazy week again. Went out for a bimble on the Gower, over to Caswell for the first time which was nice. Reckon I'll go there again, nice to head to a different Gower crag for once. Posting late as I've been on holiday for the past week.

Next week:
Holiday - so realistically not much.

In reply to Si dH:

You've come on a bit !

Looking at your bouldering ticks of late you already have no excuse for ticking 8a. I think ET at low 8a is fair especially in current warm conditions. Moffatrocity has to be harder. Rattle and Hump is definitely 7B or harder anywhere else other than the Tor. Not an easy entre to 8a even if you have the start wired from what Ive heard. Call of Nature might be a better bet - not that Ive done that either

In reply to shark:

Thanks Simon! Hope you're right
Back on ET for a couple of hours tomorrow I hope...this time with a kneepad.

In reply to shark:


I keep telling him that