UKC

Morning FitClubbers!

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=649930

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week's posters:

Hms - Did you have a nice bimbly rest?
Si dH - Goal ticking coming along nicely, Paint it Black sounds HARD
JayK - Hitting running targets 4 weeks ahead of schedule? Sounds pretty good!
AJM - Cider Soak sounds like a challenge, i’d love to get down there one day. Also, well done on the triathlon ride!
Ian Bell - Things are looking good for Kaly, have you picked out any particular target routes yet?
Mattrm - Positive healing vibes going your way, hope it’s all uphill from here!
Ally Smith - 500 movements in one session and no soreness, shocking behaviour!
Mrchewy - Close call missing the mats, be careful out there!
Bobling - Good job on your press ups and sit ups thats a good improvement in only a few weeks
Planetmarshall - Have fun in Kalymnos!
SteveM - I think it’s safe to say you are a solid HVS climber now…
Dandan - Train train train, rest rest rest.
Leeboy1985 - Glad the chest is improving, how are you getting on with the weight loss?
Hokkyokusei - I’ve heard of painful physio sessions but i’m not sure it’s supposed to cripple you!
TonyB - Seems like you did pretty well considering the necessity for childcare, hope the back improves, skipping conditioning can’t help!
Guy123456789 - Are you getting enough sleep? Stressful job? They can affect recovery hugely
D1 - The 7a sounds like a foregone conclusion if you can avoid tearing any more hoes in yourself…
Curious Yellow - Are you not a tufa fan? My wife hates them too but loves Kalymnos, so it is possible to avoid them and still climb!
Just Tintin - Dish waggles instead of visiting the wall? Are you mad!?
Biscuit - Well done on the traverse! Your beta retention sounds almost as bad as mine!

*FitClub 500 Goals*
It’s the 500th FitClub on the 16th of October and Tyler suggested coming up with a goal to achieve by then, possibly something you don’t usually do, or a goal aimed at a weakness of yours. Feel free to suggest your own goals or goals for other people based on what you know about them, anyone who completes their goal will be rewarded with a huge sense of self-satisfaction and a cheque for £2000.*

Tyler: Physio every day for a week with perfect form/ touch your toes
hms - do some steep bouldering with dynamic moves/get back on RHM
AJM - Get on 2x E5/ tick Cider Soak/ dog to top a Montserrat 8a+
Si dH - Do some offwidths/ boulder 7C
Ally Smith - do ToTG, do some deadlifts/bench bodyweight, cycle to work everyday for a week,
Luke Owens - do a 10 sessions of low end aero-cap before week 500
Dandan - Climb >7b slabby/technical/arete (struggling to find one local)
Biscuit - Techy slab head point
SteveM - 500 antag exercises in the week. (Easy!)
JustTintin - Jerrys Traverse and/or E3 lead
Ukb shark - Austrian Oak and a £2000 cheque
Ian Bell - Complete 7b+ pyramid
PlanetMarshall - No Sleep till Hammersmith 7a+
D1 - 7a either indoors or out

*Cheque for £2000 may not be genuine

In reply to Dandan:

M-8mile run. Stomach felt a bit dodgey but went for core session anyway. Managed 2 sets but still needed an early night to sleep it off.
T-Working late.
W-Club intervals. Really good session. Call me weird, I love intervals - I like them even better when they're structured sessions. Working this session into my weekly plan for the next few weeks. Straight down the wall for some campus board.
T-Working late.
F-Board session. Again, feeling the benefits of the core sessions and also feeling stronger after the campus/fingerboarding/running weight. Much improved on the session 4 weeks ago. Who knows how this will transfer onto real rock though? I haven't touched the stuff since August - and that was bloody Parisella's! Hardly real climbing
S-Work early. Tried to go for a long run. Watch couldn't find satellites and I got my pacing all wrong. Was battered so broke it up into a few shorter quicker runs totalling around 9miles.
S-Going to go for a boulder indoors. Couldn't head outdoors as I've got quite a bit of work to do. I also needed a bit of a rest! Mad September is virtually over and done with now though, so work should start to settle down a little.

Put me down for a sub-90 half marathon for FC 500 Dan. Cheers mate.

In reply to Dandan:

Ha - crashed twice, so maybe the third go!

Mon - AM 30min homeboard 1hr Conditioning.
Tue - Rest Day
Wed - PM Cycle 12.2k @ 15.7mph average
Thu - AM 45min Conditioning 1.5hr homeboard
Fri - AM 30min Conditioning PM 1.5hr homeboard
Sat - AM Cycle 50k @ 15.4mph average. Getting better.
Sun - AM Cycle 40min 11k. Gentle spin on hardtail PM 2hr boulder at Pinnacle. 30min conditioning

Recovery stuff goes okay, Thu and Fri felt easy for the first time. See the physio on Friday, I think she'll be pleased. The shoulder thing is still not right and I'm incredibly weak but I'm happy.

Three short sessions on Paul's board, as I'm working nearby and I feel I get more out of these than going bouldering at Pinnacle. Fingers and forearms have ached a lot this week. No endurance whatsoever! Four sessions that are climbing relevant however, which is definite progress. Bought some more wooden holds again this week, to set gaston starts and undercuts.

Cycling seems to be the new interest. Struggling on the little hills round here but recovery is quick on the flat. Don't warm up for forty minutes tho, yesterday my heart rate never dropped under 160 till I'd warmed up and the quick spins feel really brutal if I push hard. It's really nice however, after struggling with climbing for so long, to be doing a sport were it's all about graft and sweating. This I can do. The 25 tooth rear makes the hills a bit harder than I'd like, even with a compact chainset but I think it's just a case of persevering and pushing on. It's not exactly the Lakes round here.

More of the same next week I guess.

In reply to Dandan:

thanks Dan. Apparently I'm not very good at bimbling, cos it seemed a pretty busy week.

M - 7 miles walking.
T - stretches in morning, core session & pressups in evening
W - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR. Had meant to do steep circuits, but my boulder warm-up turned into a whole session. Tried the 6c-7a set, of which there are 12. Did 4, had a decent stab at 4 more, got utterly closed down by 4 more, so would summise that that was 6c, 6c+ & 7a then! Laddered up and down some FoC to finish.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening, trying a squad trials set of 10 problems from 4+ to 7a. Got up to 6c ok. Then went to play on the mothership steep stuff, as per week500 instructions.
F - funeral
S - Cheddar, back to the Tsunami. Dogged the clips in the 7b & had a refresher on the moves. It then took 3 redpoint tries. The 2nd try was very poor as I hadn't rested long enough but I had managed to get cold, so we then retreated to the relative warmth of the car and a longer rest and go 3 went easily. Very much my anti-style - steep with big moves, many to very directional poor side-pulls. Lots of weights in the evening.
S - shoulder rehab, then fingerboard 7/3/6/3 for 6 on various holds, followed by 10/3/6/3 for 6 on small holds (BM1000 lower row). Will need to stretch etc again this evening as R shoulder very stiff and grumpy.

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan, I thought goal progress had been pretty slow actually, but yes Paint it Black is v hard! (For me ).
Got lots done outside this week, no ticks but more progress on PiB and lots of good finger training.

2016 goals:

- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night (on hold for September.)

- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B) (done)
- moffatrocity (f7B+) (done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)

- Arch Enemies (7c+) (done)
- The Free Monster (8a) (done)

M: Evening session on Paint it Black. Bit disappointed with this one, Imy aim was to get the start (moves 1 & 2) smoother and linked in to move 3, but then I didn't manage to repeat the start at all. I did manage to link from about move 5 or 6 to the top, which I'd known was doable on my first session but hadn't actually done it. Unfortunately tweaked a pulley slightly in my right middle finger - the same one where I already have an existing flexor unit issue. PiB is ridiculously intense on 3 finger crimps. I need to warm up well and then rest for 3-4 mins minimum between every pull on, even when I fall after one move. On Monday I was lax with this and paid the price.
T: Resting finger. Did some shoulder rehab.
W: Ditto.
T: Evening session on PiB again. Much better session. Got the top bit from move 5/6 completely wired now, and did a link of moves 3 and 4 for the first time (I hadn't previously done move 4.) Managed the starting 2 moves once but fell off trying to move out of them, as per previous Sunday.
F: Rest and shoulder work.
S: Morning on PiB again (after an hour trying Neil's Wall (f7B+) just down the road - I couldn't do the start so gave up on it). Good session on PiB though. Still struggling on the start but think I made a slight breakthrough towards the end. More significantly I've now got moves 3 and 4 well wired as well, linked in to move 5 too, and am definitely able to link from move 3 to the top if I tried hard enough. In the afternoon I drove down to London for my brother's 30th birthday meal...drank way too much wine and slept badly on his sofabed.
S: Afternoon session at Forest Rock on the way home, tryingCracked up (f7B). Did all the moves quite quickly but then failed to link it, which is frustrating as it's fairly short and I'm easily strong enough. I was on a lot of caffeine to stay awake all day, and then found myself getting unduly wound up by falling off, and then rushing things... the two facts may be connected.

Injury catalogue: I've been managing my fingers (especially right middle, but right ring and left middle to some extent) pretty actively this week. They are all a little tender but not in a terrible way, PiB is just very intensive on them. I certainly feel like it's really good training. I did all this well on Thursday and Saturday, so am pleased with that. Been doing lots of shoulder work to keep it in check with this much bouldering; a few grumbles but seems ok.

Weight last Sunday night was 11 st 5 lb. This is a good thing for PiB if it stays dry into mid/late October, ie I should be stronger once I'm back around ~11 st again.

Bit of a quandary with tactics now for PiB. I'm not sure if I should keep throwing myself at the first two moves in the hope of a breakthrough, or spend more energy for a session or two to work it as a problem from move 3 so that when I do eventually manage the first two moves in to move 3 just omce, I'm all set to keep going.

Si

In reply to Dandan:


Cheers Dan.

My week was basically empty - I dug out another tree stump but my fingers felt a bit tweaky the day I was intending to train midweek so I didn't. I said it was all about cs prep and injured fingers aren't part of that! Was driving Thursday evening and Friday evening so didn't really have many training evenings anyway.

So I'll waffle about cider soak. The "too long, didn't read" answer is that I didn't tick it and there's no yyfy at the bottom, but that there was a good bunch of progress.

Route breakdown Which might make the following make sense:
- womble to a ledge
- Boulder problem to a break with a good hold in it - second clip and an opportunity to rest one hand (it's not that big a good hold!). V5?
- shuffle right a few moves, get a sidepull slot, big cross into a sika crimp, hard unwind, hard foot shuffle into a dropknee, hard third clip, reach a pocket, jump to "rest jugs" (poor feet) by the fourth clip. Long V6?
- top headwall - reach from jugs to a mini gaston crimp, heel toe and hard press to get a left hand crimpy thing, long move then gradually easing to the top. V4?
- 22 moves in that sequence. Steep route despite the length with you landing many metres out. Not really my style and hard for the grade, but very good climbing.

In the spring I had 3 days on it although some of those I could only work chunks of the route - there was definitely an entire day where I could only work to the pocket and I think in all I'd probably only done the top headwall a few times. I could hit the sika crimp from the ground and get half way through unwinding but I hadn't done a link of any size into the top headwall, which is so hard when tired, and I hadn't linked the central V6 section in one go including the clip - my links had always broken around the clip. Last weekend was similar - I got back to the sika crimp but conditions were appalling for most of the day in the sun so made little progress save to work out that it was really hard and that the third clip would be a nightmare.

So, this weekend I was a bit apprehensive - the optimism of the spring had been replaced slightly with a "God this is going to be a big ask" from last weekend. I did hHowever have a secret weapon which was Ally's suggestion to tape the third draw to the rock because otherwise it hangs into your torso in the dropknee you clip off and that makes it really fumble-able in a position where you want the clip time to be measured in milliseconds. This worked very well.

So, my highpoint on Saturday was 2 goes getting to the sika basically but pinging off holds - the sika crimp is quite smooth texture so is a bit conditionsy. I also managed a link through from a move or so into the extended V6 central section (missed the first setup move or two) to the second move or so of the headwall, including the hard third clip, which is a really good link, and linked the headwall a few times and got that wired. The link through the crux feels like a key link to have in the bag and whilst the highpoint made no real progress I reached the highpoint a lot more solidly - in the spring I was having to bounce to get the sika with enough momentum to start the cross through, whereas this time I can reach it fairly static, adjust on it almost, and then start the unwind without needing the more snatchy bounce to get me going on it.

Sunday I was fortunate the route wasn't soaked - a very heavy rain band on Saturday night - but the pocket was a bit spoogy and required a bit of drying (this hold seeps which is the problem with trying it over winter). I managed another relatively key link - from the unwind but before the hard foot shuffle through to the chains - essentially moves 10-22 albeit with the third clip already in. I had a redpoint go too where I came off out of the unwind. I then had to take a fairly extended siesta because the route was in full sun and I knew there was no point in trying it in those conditions. I got 2 more goes in after 5 when it goes into shade.
- The first of those goes I stuck the unwind for the first time from the ground, but fell off the foot shuffle trying to fish my left foot onto the hold you dropknee off.
- the second go I stuck the unwind again, managed the foot shuffle but fell off trying to take a hand off to clip - I think in hindsight I probably needed to sink more into the dropknee.
- good points also on this was having the V5 wired enough again to get a quick flick of the left hand before it gets stuck on the good hold - it's knacky so you need to relearn exactly how to move on it.
- one clip and a reach back into the pocket and that would hopefully put me in a place where I'd be rolling the dice on whether I can hang on long enough on that top headwall (I'm hoping from the pocket I won't drop the jump)

So, I think in the spring I thought I was kind of on redpoint on it. However, I think after this weekend I feel like that was maybe a bit optimistic but that actually now I might be ready to properly be on redpoint on it. I've got a lot more solidity on the cross to the sika and the unwind, and I've also got some key links in the bag which I just didn't have before - from the unwind to the chains and the link through the central section. I've done the top section whilst tired and whilst it's hard I also know it's doable.nstiol probabky fall off it mind you! Aside from the link of the full route itself there's only 1 link left that would be worth working which would be from the second clip to the top (5-22).

So, progress. However, I don't really know when I'm going to be back - if it's not this Autumn it may not be for some time. If nothing else though I feel like I'm in pretty good shape at the minute (assuming cider soak is hard 8a, maybe 7c+/8a kind of form on it, if that makes sense - not quite there yet but it wouldn't take a few holds being that much bigger before I was able to get it?) which should hopefully bode well for Montserrat if I get any time there to try some harder stuff.

Plans for the week - fingers a bit battered so quiet start to the week, got to get that last tree stump out this week too, then this weekend friends down so hopefully some climbing, maybe dws or trad...

In reply to Dandan:

I finally climbed Aberration yesterday. My first 8a and I'm really pleased. It all got a bit ridiculous in the end. I'd thought that mentally and tactically I'm quite strong, but Aberration has proved that wrong. First go bolt to bolt putting in the draws, I did all the moves easily. I fired off the crux first go. First redpoint attempt of the day fell at the crux, second redpoint fell at the crux, and third redpoint the same. I was really annoyed as everytime I could do the crux off the rope. In fact I could do the crux 3 times in a row with virtually no rest. I know this because after the third redpoint that's what I did. 4th redpoint attempt of the day - the same. I was pretty annoyed at this stage thinking "what do I have to do?". I did it on the 6th attempt of the day. I was tired, my skin was thin, the sun was on route and I was just going up to strip the route, and suddenly I'm through the crux. Shit, I'm on the match. I could still fumble this. I didn't. I sketched through the the next part and the rock over. I fumbled one of the clips, such that I hadn't actually clipped it and had to reach back and do it. I had to match and shake on a crimp, that I never expected to shake on and soon I was at the jug by the Gonads belay with only 6b climbing to the top. I was shaking, but there was no way I was going to fall off. I didn't and I got to the chains. I suspect all I had to do was remove the pressure and not overthink. Really pleased to have done it and hopefully the next 8a won't be such an ordeal.

Mon - bouldering - fairly hard quite long rests + continuity
Tue - bouldering - hard long rests
Wed - rest
Thursday - bouldering moderately hard- short rests
Friday - fingerboard + core
Sat - rest
Sun - Aberration - many goes before success

My climbing seems to be coming together well. The long endurance phase has meant that I can get a lot of bouldering done. This was the first time that the moves on Aberration have felt relatively easy. It just took an age to tick.

In reply to TonyB:

Nice one Tony!

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan - the regular(ish) yoga seems to have helped by core stamina loads.

Week 39:
M - CyL refamiliarisation. Almost did High Break to end (low) 2nd RP. #1 fell at heelhook drop down. #2 had a moment getting across crimp move into corner. Fell at very end of LowLife – need to mark best bit of the break and have this wired!
T - 23km flat cycling; level 2-3. BM2K session; progress on 10s hangs with crimp, middle-2 and back-2. Might even be alright for a Montsant trip to finally slay Hidrophobia? An-cap hangs (FB5) – started out alright, but back-3 was pants and sacked it off.
W - London day-trip. Fore-arm hypertrophy exercises, core & antags when home.
T - Yoga
F - Funeral.
S - Kilnsey; tried (and did) all the moves on the project, well, at least as far as the junction with Guns in the Sky (8b+). 2nd Freakshow (8c) crux easier than expected, but my extended start has a hard slopey bit to cross Epic Adventures (8c). It's probably the same grade as Freakshow? I’m going to need a long rope…
S - Started to come down with something viral – totally wiped out and afternoon snooze needed. Half-hearted theraband rehab after caffeine abuse.

Another work trip this week will put paid to much training, so hope weather is good for South Coast this weekend?

In reply to TonyB:

Congratulations!

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan, I've been mostly playing to my strengths so far so time to find some scary HVS, do more at Almscliff. And maybe some easy E1s.

STG (end of Sept)
Get on at least one HVS per trad session (N/A, no trad this week)
Base training for Abbey Dash 10K in October (2 runs)
Bike commuting at least once a week (no)
SkiFit once a week, includes core work (no)

MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule

LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Denali
Yosemite big walling again

BHAG
Big wall solo

Last week was
Mon Evening run up the Chevin, 1h+ on trails
Tues Bouldering at Caley, got Otley Wall and Forked Lightning Crack
Wed Nothing, working down in London
Thu Traversing at Wetherby, quick session on the full high-level traverse L-R-L finishing in the gathering darkness
Fri Nothing, long day at work
Sat Parkrun at Leeds, 21 mins. Ran well and didn't break myself. Train to London afterwards
Sun Weekend in London, lots of walking but no other exercise

No trad this week due to evenings drawing in and a weekend away. Good results against bouldering benchmarks for strength and stamina at Caley and Wetherby.

In reply to SteveM:

Morning all

Hi all

STG - Rip it up in Kalymnos
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40

T - 1 hour TRX rings
W - 1 hour strength and conditioning
T - 8 routes, 6a-6b+
Sat - c12m cycling, physio
Sun - 9 routes all <6c. All of the V0, V1, V2/3 boulder circuits flashed

Bits of yoga throughout the week.

Took it fairly easy this week as arm was playing up, however I think a combo of rest and physio has pretty much sorted it, was just tight. Away with work in Birmingham all week which at least means I'll have an enforced rest pre climbing, likely be too busy to do much in the evenings. Prob for the best as getting a cold and still have a bit of a chest infection to shift.

No routes picked out for Kaly really. 1st week I'm doing coaching so I guess I'll go where I'm told. Then figured 2nd week I'll see if I have things left to tick from the 1st week. If not then I'll play it by ear, loads to go at there.

May or may not post from Kaly so might be missing a few weeks.

In reply to TonyB:

Great work on the 8a, that's a big milestone.

In reply to Dandan:
Wipe out for me this week. Crazy work and low motivation meant I only managed to go swimming once. Still I've just looked it up and I've been in for about 3 months now so perhaps a week off isn't so bad. Need to do better next week, and a possible mid-term goal this coming weekend depending on if the weather is good for heading outside. Work *should* settle down again too so this week.

Stats:
Mon - Nothing
Tues - Nothing
Weds - Swimming, 1.5k. 40 mins.
Thurs - Nothing
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Nothing

Weight: 72.35 (-0.85)
Injury report: No significant change. Must keep doing exercises - next Osteo in a couple of weeks.
Goals:
Short Term (before November 2016). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 60 in 2 min. Flash 6b at the wall.

Medium Term (before September 2017): Get up a 6c at the wall. Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running. Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.

Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner

BHAG: ?

In reply to TonyB:

Congratulations! I like that you are already talking about the next 8a...

In reply to AJM:

Well there goes my onsight attempt of Cider Soak...

In reply to Dandan:



Oddly, it wasn't so much the session itself that was painful, but it was very painful walking afterwards.

m - 17k cycling, 1k running, 1hr30 mins drills, plyo & core
t - 10k cycling, physio
w - rest
t - 1k running, had to stop when my calf started hurting
f - 13k cycling
s - 13k hike up to Stoodly Pike - very windy at the top!
s - rest

I was initially very happy this week, haven't been to the gym for several months and seem to have retained my core strength. The warm up run was also promising. After effects of physio much less painful this week. But, when I tried to run again on Thursday I was very disappointed to hurt my calf.

Weight 80kg, Body fat 18.8%

Goals - get running again!

In reply to Dandan:

M: 7 miles walking
T,W: Nothing
Th: TCA with hms. went round squad try out set. did 6c fine, the 6b+ was not a 6b+. Even if you were a small kid with tiny strong fingers, the moves were horrible!
F: Nothing
S: London day trip so plenty of walking around as I was avoiding the tube
S: Brookes. Bit of bouldering and several circuits. See below

Has any one here climbed at the climbing wall in Oxford - Rock Solid? I spent 3 years living in Oxford, but as a student didn't get much time to spend climbing. However, I've been back a few times now and am majorly unimpressed by it. So much so that I think it is probably the worst climbing centre I've been to in the UK (and I've been to a lot!)

My main grumble is the setting is (imho) really bad. With the bouldering they seem to only make things harder by setting v long moves (often to the point of dangerous) and dynos as the only way of making problems harder. I know I'm a shortie at 5'3, but my boyfriend is 6'1 and he regularly also finds the same thing! The circuits aren't graded at all, and there are no mats, just move the bouldering pads provided, which means at busy times you can find your pad moved away from underneath you as you climb!

Also, from my experience, the staff I have encountered don't seem to care about customers, and if there's a kids group in there you might as well not bother as there isn't the space and you won't be able to climb a thing without a child running underneath you.

hms can testify to the full extent of my complaints to her yesterday when I got home. I wondered if this was just a series of bad, but unlucky, experiences, or if anyone on fit club shared similar views?

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks me,
Rest week on the plan so only 4 sessions meaning that I was feeling pretty full of beans by the end of the week. I used some of that energy working on the garage build but still got to the end of the week feeling rejuvenated and ready to push on, which I guess is the idea.

M: Nothing. actual, genuine, bona-fide nothing! Weird.

T: Indoor boulder; Continuity. Warmed up on steep boulders, made some progress on a cool V8+/9 which has unfortunately now been reset, damn!

W: Nothing, again!

T: Indoor routes; 1 on 2 off, quick session then drove home after as I had Friday off work to get on with the garage build.

F: DIYClub; levelled ground and filled rubble/hardcore layer, starting to look like it might be a building one day

S: Indoor routes; Was going to head outside but used the poor excuse of strong winds, must try and get out in next couple of weeks. Did 1 on 2 off at 7a+

S: Rings and bar conditioning.

So on Saturday we went to Calshot, after doing my 1 on 2 off session I was still feeling pretty energetic so I thought I'd have a go at something hard for a bit of fun. The hardest route down there is an 8b set by Ben West, so you'd hope it was at least close to an accurate grade. It's an endurance route in a comp style, increasing in difficulty as it goes, with no significant cruxes.
I pulled on, the third move past the first bolt was really powerful on small crimps, which seemed about right for the grade, it seemed to set the level for what to expect, so I challenged myself to get the second clip in before I fell off.
I got the second clip, and the third, and the fourth, and the fifth.
I then fell off due to bad route reading, I'd not spotted a hold on the far side of a volume, I'd have been able to carry on if I wasn't a blind idiot.
I rested once more before clipping the chains, 2 rests on my first go at an 8b! 8 flipping b!
To say I was pleased would be, well, correct, but only in the same way that calling Adam Ondra 'quite good' is correct.
Ok, the route may have been soft, I have no frame of reference at that difficulty, but as it was set by Ben and not some part-time staff member then I'd expect it to be at least there or thereabouts. It just felt like I had a constant level of grip with hardly any fade from pump, I would notice that a hold felt tough to hold, but it was just an observation, it wouldn't affect my ability to just climb on past it. It was a great feeling, hopefully something I can build on further with some more training.

I really, really will set some goals soon, I promise.

In reply to Dandan:


I forgot we had people as strong as you amongst is - I should have posted a warning

In reply to Dandan:

D'ur! With your finger strength, it was obvious that once sorted in the energy system department you'd be a crusher.

Now, don't get too big for your boots, but your finger strength is high enough to get you up 8c - your stamina is miles off, but you should dream big.

f8b should be within your grasp with some hard work - keep that up and the big numbers should be attainable...

In reply to Ally Smith and AJM:

I really feel like I'm on the cusp of some good things, everything seems to be falling into place after 5+ years of injury and strife.
I just need two things to happen now, I need to actually get outside and convert these gym ticks into proper ticks (not a foregone conclusion by any means) and I need to stay uninjured. If I can do that, I'll be a happy chappy indeed, I'm not daring to think too big at the moment, but we shall see what next year brings, if I can start it injury free...

In reply to Dandan:



In my experience, there definitely comes a time after constant injury when you learn to spot the forewarning niggles and are aware enough to keep a lid on them. All the advice in the world can't help with this, unless it's basic preventative stuff, and sadly/happily it comes through your own journey in the landscape of injury.

Maybe you're at that point now and ready to make the most of it.

In reply to mrchewy:

I completely agree, and I think I'm much, much better at listening to what my body has to say than I ever have been before.
For example, this year marks the first time I have stopped mid-session and gone home, something didn't feel quite right (I don't even remember what it is now because it never developed into a problem) so I stopped. I'd NEVER done that before, I would always convince myself it was fine and push on through.
It took a lot of learning to get that lesson through my tiny, yet surprisingly thick skull, but hopefully it will finally stick now.

In reply to TonyB:

Awesome, well done Tony. Total sympathy with feeling under pressure - I'm getting that with hard bouldering at the moment once I can smell success, it's weird.

In reply to SteveM:




Effort - I thought this was nails for V4. Conditions can't have been good either? You've obviously got strength in hand on HVSs...

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan
Yeah weight loss has gone well this week managed a short term goal for once. I did think I wasn't going to make it as I was really strict all week with my eating but then lost it a bit on the weekend but had to smile to myself when I stood on the scales on Sunday night. Just have to keep it up this week now

Last weeks goals

Drop to 82kg - Tick
2 mountain walks or runs - tick 2 runs
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp. Fail
Climb at least twice - Tick

Next weeks goals

Drop to 81kg
2 mountain walks or runs
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp.
Climb at least twice


MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b), Scavenger (VS 4c) and The Druid (VS 4c)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) by end of Sept - Didn't tick and don't think I will get it done by the end of this week either so might have to move it to an October goal


LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter

BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)

Monday - 2 hour run, 9 miles, 12 min miles 1500 foot accent
Tuesday - Core and antagonistic
Wednesday - Indoor climbing mainly bouldering for strength
Thursday - 30 min run, 3 mile, 10 min miles, 300 foot accent
Friday - Rest
Saturday - Couldn't get a climbing partner so solod Musta Bindun (VD), Rootin Toot (VD), Snoozin' Suzie (VD), Rite Root (D), The Seven Deadly Dwarves (VD).
Sunday - 2 hour indoor bouldering

Happy Training
Lee

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan. Looks like you're on amazing form. GET OUTSIDE!

As predicted, and hinted at in last weeks post, not much done this last week.

First week at Uni and two family issues (they happened on the two eve's i'd planned to climb) meant nothing. I did commute in to Uni 3 times (14 miles each way) and seem to have got my bike legs back reasonably quickly.

I think for the next few weeks I will be buried under anatomy books. First exam in 5 weeks. I'll aim to have the yoga and climb session at The Depot each Thurs eve and anything other than that will be a bonus.

I'm going to enter the BOB at the Depot in November. This will be my baseline/benchmark for getting strong over the next few months. Going to be much easier to concentrate on bouldering than routes etc.

Not doing core work atm. I need to do some stretching to counter being sat on my bike, in a car or at a desk all day. I'll be working my core with technique practice on the wall.

No goals etc yet. Possible trip to Font next year on the cards late May/early June, boulder V8 outdoors again, top ten at BOB? (i'm just a vet so should do OK I hope). Need some intermediate process type goals to get me there.

In reply to Si dH:

Thanks Si, I couldn't touch it this spring so I was very happy to climb it again It does feel like I'm climbing with stuff in reserve at the moment, but that's what helps the happy feeling/calm mind that I'm seeking.

In reply to Dandan:

Late update, as I mentioned in last post I took it easy most of the week. I did some bouldering thursday and friday, and 4 mile run on Saturday, feeling pretty well rested. Spent some time planning the next 7 weeks of training for 2 weeks of sport climbing in Spain which I kicked off this Monday.

@Dandan82- yeah I'm really not sure why recovery is such an issue at the moment. I'm pretty aware of the things that affect recovery like getting enough sleep, taking a complete rest day weekly, eating well (the previously mentioned dietary issues aside), but can't identify any individual issues. I've started monitoring morning HRV and general "feeling" daily to see if I can see any trends etc. had a blood test recently showing fairly low RBC, possibly iron deficiency anaemia, so am addressing with an iron supplement over the next couple of months to see if it makes a difference (apparently it takes a long time to restock the bodies iron supply)

In reply to Dandan:

Wow Dan, That sounds really exciting.

In reply to Dandan:

I think i've found a route for my FitClub 500 goal, Weakest to the Wall (7b) is a sheer sheet with a few pockets in it, sounds, er, ideal. There's a 7b+ link-up out of it too if it's too easy, hoping to head down tomorrow to have a look so stats might be a bit late.