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Placeholder. I'm not sure what the outcome of h discussion with Guy was last week but if the answer was that i should do some stats it might be tomorrow evening. In the meantime, get posting...
In reply to AJM:
Sorry just doing a late one, thanks for getting the post in.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=660450&v=1
AJM: I take it that pull-up session includes your bodyweight? (!?) Do you use a fixed rest interval?
Tyler: Did you manage to up the volume this week?
zmv: Great goal and sounds like you are well on your way. Is there anything specific you’d like to get from FitClub to help you on your way?
Lancer: Welcome back! Do you have a HVS tick list to go at?
TheFasting: You certainly have good chest strength for a climber, should help prevent front/back imbalance. How’s your shoulder mobility? For example a lot of gym based chest strength work can severely reduce shoulder extension range (i.e. how far can you raise your arms behind your back)
Ian: Do you feel the difference of that +2kg BW? (in strength and/or when running)
guy127917: Wednesday sounds like a horrendous session
ad111: Shin pain is such a motivational downer for running, hope it were feeling better this week?
Ally Smith: When you found the sport grades weren’t coming as expected given theoretical fitness, were you doing much outdoor bouldering? Outdoor bouldering to outdoor sport seems a better transition than system board/fingerboard etc to outdoor sport- much more specific.
TonyB: Sounds like you are in good shape for your trip. Have you go any projects/targets in Font?
TheSheep: 6 days out of 7, good work!
hokkyo: Snow bollards are the worst.
Curious Yellow: Good to hear that! Are you training for anything specific the moment?
biscuit: I like that attitude, do what you can with the resources available to you.
DanDan: I think your STGs are good- we expect you to tick them all every week…
Spengler: Cool, so what’s the next trip?
JJ: How was the weekend in Portland?
LeeBoy: Have you got some hill days or trips planned for the near future?
hms: Sounds like losing your post was the biggest failure of your training week which is great!
mattrm: Losing weight is a matter of planning your nutrition out, I’m sure you can do it if you want to!
Bobling: Well done again getting the physic exercises in again. Have you thought about doing incline press ups, or maybe adding a bit of weight, to help you progress with them a bit?
Just TinTin: No worries, look forward to hearing the goals
AWOL: Richard Popp
Sorry just doing a late one, thanks for getting the post in.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=660450&v=1
AJM: I take it that pull-up session includes your bodyweight? (!?) Do you use a fixed rest interval?
Tyler: Did you manage to up the volume this week?
zmv: Great goal and sounds like you are well on your way. Is there anything specific you’d like to get from FitClub to help you on your way?
Lancer: Welcome back! Do you have a HVS tick list to go at?
TheFasting: You certainly have good chest strength for a climber, should help prevent front/back imbalance. How’s your shoulder mobility? For example a lot of gym based chest strength work can severely reduce shoulder extension range (i.e. how far can you raise your arms behind your back)
Ian: Do you feel the difference of that +2kg BW? (in strength and/or when running)
guy127917: Wednesday sounds like a horrendous session
ad111: Shin pain is such a motivational downer for running, hope it were feeling better this week?
Ally Smith: When you found the sport grades weren’t coming as expected given theoretical fitness, were you doing much outdoor bouldering? Outdoor bouldering to outdoor sport seems a better transition than system board/fingerboard etc to outdoor sport- much more specific.
TonyB: Sounds like you are in good shape for your trip. Have you go any projects/targets in Font?
TheSheep: 6 days out of 7, good work!
hokkyo: Snow bollards are the worst.
Curious Yellow: Good to hear that! Are you training for anything specific the moment?
biscuit: I like that attitude, do what you can with the resources available to you.
DanDan: I think your STGs are good- we expect you to tick them all every week…
Spengler: Cool, so what’s the next trip?
JJ: How was the weekend in Portland?
LeeBoy: Have you got some hill days or trips planned for the near future?
hms: Sounds like losing your post was the biggest failure of your training week which is great!
mattrm: Losing weight is a matter of planning your nutrition out, I’m sure you can do it if you want to!
Bobling: Well done again getting the physic exercises in again. Have you thought about doing incline press ups, or maybe adding a bit of weight, to help you progress with them a bit?
Just TinTin: No worries, look forward to hearing the goals
AWOL: Richard Popp
2
In reply to AJM:
thanks Andy. Managed to pack in a quite efficient week this week too, I think, although it was a pretty intense week at work and at home.
M - London day3, lots more walking.
T - London day4, and yet more.
W - cycle commute. FB session in evening - warm up, 7/3/8/3 with plus 10kg for 2 iterations, then with plus 7.5kg for another (shoulder form was sagging badly so doing the last one at plus10kg wasn't sensible). Pull-ups at BW, 2 on each of the major BM1000 holds, so not the tiny crimps or the slopey slopers.
T - cycle commute. TCA retrying the 5+ to 6b (ticked 3 more) plus the anon-comp problems which varied from super easy to not even getting my bum off the floor.
F - cycle commute.
S - TCA. Got another yellow tick, one more feels maybe possible. Went on to try some of the 6a+ to 6c set. Ticked 4, accidentally got one that was marked hard, although as I utterly failed on 3 which were maked easy I take that with a pinch of salt. Failed to get my bum off the floor on 2 different Moon board 6c problems.
S - unforeseen family stuff meant scrapping a trip to UCR. More FB instead, morning session as per wednesday, afternoon session of some easier hangs followed by pullups on big slots at plus 7.5kg. Shoulder rehab.
thanks Andy. Managed to pack in a quite efficient week this week too, I think, although it was a pretty intense week at work and at home.
M - London day3, lots more walking.
T - London day4, and yet more.
W - cycle commute. FB session in evening - warm up, 7/3/8/3 with plus 10kg for 2 iterations, then with plus 7.5kg for another (shoulder form was sagging badly so doing the last one at plus10kg wasn't sensible). Pull-ups at BW, 2 on each of the major BM1000 holds, so not the tiny crimps or the slopey slopers.
T - cycle commute. TCA retrying the 5+ to 6b (ticked 3 more) plus the anon-comp problems which varied from super easy to not even getting my bum off the floor.
F - cycle commute.
S - TCA. Got another yellow tick, one more feels maybe possible. Went on to try some of the 6a+ to 6c set. Ticked 4, accidentally got one that was marked hard, although as I utterly failed on 3 which were maked easy I take that with a pinch of salt. Failed to get my bum off the floor on 2 different Moon board 6c problems.
S - unforeseen family stuff meant scrapping a trip to UCR. More FB instead, morning session as per wednesday, afternoon session of some easier hangs followed by pullups on big slots at plus 7.5kg. Shoulder rehab.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers- thanks for hosting. My mission at this stage is to get fit and out on the Grit in the evenings, now that light exists once more in the evening....
Week- 20 March
M- Climbing Works bouldering- problems- 4 Pinkles, 9 Iron Bru, 4 yellow (some of my first yellow!). Campus board to kill off (big rungs) 3 x ladders- 1 to 8 then 8 to 1. Ow.
T- nowt, apart from 70 press ups
W- nowt, apart from 70 press ups
T- Frenchies: 3x3, 3x50 press up.
F- Tennis after work.
S- felt horrid- manflu.
S- still horrid. Managed to get on the fingerboard in the evening- Beastmaker App 5c routine- 47/49. Ow but stronger than last weekend!
Short term goals-
- Consolidate at HVS
- Lead E1
Cheers- thanks for hosting. My mission at this stage is to get fit and out on the Grit in the evenings, now that light exists once more in the evening....
Week- 20 March
M- Climbing Works bouldering- problems- 4 Pinkles, 9 Iron Bru, 4 yellow (some of my first yellow!). Campus board to kill off (big rungs) 3 x ladders- 1 to 8 then 8 to 1. Ow.
T- nowt, apart from 70 press ups
W- nowt, apart from 70 press ups
T- Frenchies: 3x3, 3x50 press up.
F- Tennis after work.
S- felt horrid- manflu.
S- still horrid. Managed to get on the fingerboard in the evening- Beastmaker App 5c routine- 47/49. Ow but stronger than last weekend!
Short term goals-
- Consolidate at HVS
- Lead E1
1
In reply to guy127917:
It certainly does. I prefer measuring weight pulled rather than "bw+" because it strips out volatility of my weight in measuring progression.
The rest intervals are whatever miniAJM will let me get away with! They probably should be fixed, but basically long, it's not limited rest power endurance stuff.
This week gone was pants for training. Managed a micro trx session one morning and that was it. Full week of one set of grandparents or the other made getting things done tough.
> AJM: I take it that pull-up session includes your bodyweight? (!?) Do you use a fixed rest interval?
It certainly does. I prefer measuring weight pulled rather than "bw+" because it strips out volatility of my weight in measuring progression.
The rest intervals are whatever miniAJM will let me get away with! They probably should be fixed, but basically long, it's not limited rest power endurance stuff.
This week gone was pants for training. Managed a micro trx session one morning and that was it. Full week of one set of grandparents or the other made getting things done tough.
In reply to guy127917:
Morning Guy
Portland was excellent, learnt a lot over the three days. Top 3:
1. Ease into climbing each day, even if it is just a few climbs to get into the right place mentally/physically. Warming up is very important for mind and body.
2. Look at the route first, think about what the moves will be and then commit to the climb. At a tricky bit find a rest and do the same, once committed stop questioning it!
3. Lead on the days I don't feel like leading rather than giving myself an excuse not to try. Start easy and redpoint if necessary to complete a route,
I've also taken stock of where I am at and am working on some new short term goals (not all climbing related) as well as having my nutrition plan to go through so very excited about this week. One aim is to post on a Monday so that I can properly evaluate the previous week and take any lessons learned into the next.
Sooo, last week:
Mon: Fingerboard - using various holds with different amounts of weight/assistance. Miraculously held the 45 degree hold for a tiny amount of time! Ancap intervals (5x5), the grey V2-3 works well for these, pretty hard to hold on after 5 sets.
Tues: rest
Weds: Fingerboard (aerocap) - small edge for 7secs on:3 off - calculating assistance with this seemed to leave me with 28.75kg to hold on for 7 seconds. I could even lift it to clip it in! Reduced it to 20kg and it was like sitting on a swing so I finally reduced it to 10kg. I need to try this again on a smaller edge so will calculate assistance again on Wednesday this week. No ancap session today.
Thurs: 3 mile run and good rings session. Worked on angle of body to get the most out of the movement. Was a lot more enjoyable this time.
Friday to Sunday - climbing in Portland. Felt quite tired on Sunday which I think may have been down to nutrition. Will make some energy snacks this week. Did some great climbs including working 'The Accelerator' (7a) on top-rope. I'll be leading it soon
This week I need to make a food plan and finish writing up goals. Also, hanging out with Hazel Findlay on Friday!!
STG no.1 - stretch after every workout - my back is in pain!
Morning Guy
Portland was excellent, learnt a lot over the three days. Top 3:
1. Ease into climbing each day, even if it is just a few climbs to get into the right place mentally/physically. Warming up is very important for mind and body.
2. Look at the route first, think about what the moves will be and then commit to the climb. At a tricky bit find a rest and do the same, once committed stop questioning it!
3. Lead on the days I don't feel like leading rather than giving myself an excuse not to try. Start easy and redpoint if necessary to complete a route,
I've also taken stock of where I am at and am working on some new short term goals (not all climbing related) as well as having my nutrition plan to go through so very excited about this week. One aim is to post on a Monday so that I can properly evaluate the previous week and take any lessons learned into the next.
Sooo, last week:
Mon: Fingerboard - using various holds with different amounts of weight/assistance. Miraculously held the 45 degree hold for a tiny amount of time! Ancap intervals (5x5), the grey V2-3 works well for these, pretty hard to hold on after 5 sets.
Tues: rest
Weds: Fingerboard (aerocap) - small edge for 7secs on:3 off - calculating assistance with this seemed to leave me with 28.75kg to hold on for 7 seconds. I could even lift it to clip it in! Reduced it to 20kg and it was like sitting on a swing so I finally reduced it to 10kg. I need to try this again on a smaller edge so will calculate assistance again on Wednesday this week. No ancap session today.
Thurs: 3 mile run and good rings session. Worked on angle of body to get the most out of the movement. Was a lot more enjoyable this time.
Friday to Sunday - climbing in Portland. Felt quite tired on Sunday which I think may have been down to nutrition. Will make some energy snacks this week. Did some great climbs including working 'The Accelerator' (7a) on top-rope. I'll be leading it soon
This week I need to make a food plan and finish writing up goals. Also, hanging out with Hazel Findlay on Friday!!
STG no.1 - stretch after every workout - my back is in pain!
3
In reply to guy127917:
Yep - i was doing plenty of outdoor bouldering throughout the training period, it was just the lack of any time spent tied in. It could have been my pacing, or over-gripping that let me down (or the generally damp nature of Chulilla this spring!?!)
Week 13
M - Hotel gym – 450 kcal cardio on the bike. 3x20 lat pull-down (unknown weight “level #11”) some shoulder stability work. 200 core movements.
T - #DOMS. Theraband shoulder stability, pull-ups and stretching
W - Rest/travelling. Stretching only. Still some minor DOMS – must keep up the core & antag work
T - Nowt
F - cave lantern session. 4 good goes; three of which were very close, but popping feet or damp fingers stopped me from completing. Quick blast on back-up project, ended 3 moves from finish. Rubbish traffic; home very late.
S - A morning of DIY & gardening, followed by 12km walk up and around Mow Cop.
S - Back to the cave. Much drier than Friday, but still needed to chalk & brush holds before each RP. 1st go was a bit stilted but got to near the end. Next one was good – fell with fingers on edge of pocket despite getting damp tips from starting hold and having to chalk. 3rd not so good, 4th rubbish. Did back-up project at end of session – High Wall Left (f7C) - Possible FA?
Knee is sore this morning from repeatedly torquing my ankle into the Broken Heart moves - feeling conflicted about slogging it out and completing the project, or getting some variety & ticks elsewhere.
STG – end of Mar:
Maintain grumble free elbows
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on pockets & small edges and steep bouldering with good scapular control)
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger, back-up project (done) & new bolted line
Get a new bathroom fitted – Done
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
MTG – end of Apr:
Stick to the plan: An-cap, re-introduce aero-cap and strength gains
Get a new floor fitted in lounge & hall and make room for the lady to move in.
Aim to get an-cap levels up to >33moves/70seconds (ultimately get my an-cap=aero-power level when first tested on the lattice board; 39moves!)
Aim to get finger-strength up to 100% on Lattice rung & BM2K lower slot, with associated shoulder stability to go with it. (Pillbox, Cheshire Sandstone & 30degree system board bouldering; assisted 1-arm deadhangs & weighted BM2K lower edge/slot max-hangs)
Deadlift 120kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
Investigate FA options at Malham
8A/+’s in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
Yep - i was doing plenty of outdoor bouldering throughout the training period, it was just the lack of any time spent tied in. It could have been my pacing, or over-gripping that let me down (or the generally damp nature of Chulilla this spring!?!)
Week 13
M - Hotel gym – 450 kcal cardio on the bike. 3x20 lat pull-down (unknown weight “level #11”) some shoulder stability work. 200 core movements.
T - #DOMS. Theraband shoulder stability, pull-ups and stretching
W - Rest/travelling. Stretching only. Still some minor DOMS – must keep up the core & antag work
T - Nowt
F - cave lantern session. 4 good goes; three of which were very close, but popping feet or damp fingers stopped me from completing. Quick blast on back-up project, ended 3 moves from finish. Rubbish traffic; home very late.
S - A morning of DIY & gardening, followed by 12km walk up and around Mow Cop.
S - Back to the cave. Much drier than Friday, but still needed to chalk & brush holds before each RP. 1st go was a bit stilted but got to near the end. Next one was good – fell with fingers on edge of pocket despite getting damp tips from starting hold and having to chalk. 3rd not so good, 4th rubbish. Did back-up project at end of session – High Wall Left (f7C) - Possible FA?
Knee is sore this morning from repeatedly torquing my ankle into the Broken Heart moves - feeling conflicted about slogging it out and completing the project, or getting some variety & ticks elsewhere.
STG – end of Mar:
Maintain grumble free elbows
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on pockets & small edges and steep bouldering with good scapular control)
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger, back-up project (done) & new bolted line
Get a new bathroom fitted – Done
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
MTG – end of Apr:
Stick to the plan: An-cap, re-introduce aero-cap and strength gains
Get a new floor fitted in lounge & hall and make room for the lady to move in.
Aim to get an-cap levels up to >33moves/70seconds (ultimately get my an-cap=aero-power level when first tested on the lattice board; 39moves!)
Aim to get finger-strength up to 100% on Lattice rung & BM2K lower slot, with associated shoulder stability to go with it. (Pillbox, Cheshire Sandstone & 30degree system board bouldering; assisted 1-arm deadhangs & weighted BM2K lower edge/slot max-hangs)
Deadlift 120kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or grit traverse?)
Investigate FA options at Malham
8A/+’s in the cave: Broken Trigger, In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Malham project(?), Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Strange week gone by, didnt feel like I achieved or did much but looking bad it wasn't too bad after all.
Monday, rest day. Knee was very sore from the run on Sunday. My own fault as I wore my old knackered trainers as I was running mainly trails and it was muddy as hell in places. However they dont give enough cushioning for the road sections any more. Could feel the knee getting a hammering but continued anyway. Silly boy!
Tuesday, gentle cycle in to work, 15km and a very surprising lunch swim taking another couple of seconds of my 1km PB!
Wednesday, nice gentle 1k swim
Thursday 1km swim again
Friday, 1km swim and a ride home. Took a new route that upped the distance to 42km so getting more out of the journey home
Saturday, at a swim gala with the eldest daughter so nothing to show
Sunday, back for day 2 of the gala but had scoped the area the day before so escaped for a 7.2km run
> TheSheep: 6 days out of 7, good work
Cheers Strange week gone by, didnt feel like I achieved or did much but looking bad it wasn't too bad after all.
Monday, rest day. Knee was very sore from the run on Sunday. My own fault as I wore my old knackered trainers as I was running mainly trails and it was muddy as hell in places. However they dont give enough cushioning for the road sections any more. Could feel the knee getting a hammering but continued anyway. Silly boy!
Tuesday, gentle cycle in to work, 15km and a very surprising lunch swim taking another couple of seconds of my 1km PB!
Wednesday, nice gentle 1k swim
Thursday 1km swim again
Friday, 1km swim and a ride home. Took a new route that upped the distance to 42km so getting more out of the journey home
Saturday, at a swim gala with the eldest daughter so nothing to show
Sunday, back for day 2 of the gala but had scoped the area the day before so escaped for a 7.2km run
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for compiling the stats.
m - hangover
t - rest
w - 5k run to work
t - 6.5k run home, off road
f - 11.5k off road
s - 1.5k warm up, 5k parkrun
s - 12.5k hike up Ingleborough with my Mum for mother's day. She's not doing too badly for a 75 year old.
- 3k run in daylight at nearly 7 o'clock - wonderful!
Baildon Boundary Way next Sunday. Not looking forward to it, to be honest, but I need to get some distance in before the Three Peaks Fell Race at the end of April.
Thanks for compiling the stats.
m - hangover
t - rest
w - 5k run to work
t - 6.5k run home, off road
f - 11.5k off road
s - 1.5k warm up, 5k parkrun
s - 12.5k hike up Ingleborough with my Mum for mother's day. She's not doing too badly for a 75 year old.
- 3k run in daylight at nearly 7 o'clock - wonderful!
Baildon Boundary Way next Sunday. Not looking forward to it, to be honest, but I need to get some distance in before the Three Peaks Fell Race at the end of April.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
Only one tripped planned for in July to the alps. Will most likely get to north wales a few times between now and then for some big hill days.
Didn't do a lot of training this week as I knew I was going to Scotland on the weekend and I pulled a muscle in my neck on Tuesday so did not want to push it and ruin the weekend. How I done this I have no idea as it just started to hurt for no reason
M - 10 min core
T - Injury
W - Injury
T - Finished work and took the 600 mile long drive to Scotland. Got to loch Morlich at 2;30 Friday morning and had a 3 hour bivy before getting back up to ensure cold conditions early in the morning
F - Climbed Jacob's Ladder (I) and then Fiacaill Ridge (II) (took crampons off for this though as it was covered in snow but no ice and the snow was starting to get soft as we were climbing so I have not classed it as a logbook tick yet..
S - done a round of Creag Meagaidh - Took a 600 mile Journey home
S - Rest
Happy training
Lee
Thanks Guy
Only one tripped planned for in July to the alps. Will most likely get to north wales a few times between now and then for some big hill days.
Didn't do a lot of training this week as I knew I was going to Scotland on the weekend and I pulled a muscle in my neck on Tuesday so did not want to push it and ruin the weekend. How I done this I have no idea as it just started to hurt for no reason
M - 10 min core
T - Injury
W - Injury
T - Finished work and took the 600 mile long drive to Scotland. Got to loch Morlich at 2;30 Friday morning and had a 3 hour bivy before getting back up to ensure cold conditions early in the morning
F - Climbed Jacob's Ladder (I) and then Fiacaill Ridge (II) (took crampons off for this though as it was covered in snow but no ice and the snow was starting to get soft as we were climbing so I have not classed it as a logbook tick yet..
S - done a round of Creag Meagaidh - Took a 600 mile Journey home
S - Rest
Happy training
Lee
1
In reply to guy127917:
>TonyB: Sounds like you are in good shape for your trip. Have you go any projects/targets in Font?
Thanks Guy, I'm trying not to have any projects or very defined goals for Font. I'm going with the family as part of a meet with our local climbing club. I have to split time between bouldering and running around the forest with a lightsaber. If I have one goal, it's going to be that our son has a good time, and continues to want to go on holiday to Font.
Mon - Weights. This is improving. 3 sets of 5 deadlifts at 105 kg, 3 sets of 5 dumbell squat presses with 2x 17.5 kg dumbells, 3 sets of 5 wide lat pull downs with 90 kg, 3 sets of 12 low rows and 3 sets of 5 bench press with a very measly 51 kg. I found a website symmetric strength that evaluates performance in various exercises and this confirmed how poor my chest strength is. I hope to improve this a little to get some semblance of balance.
Tue - Pilates, Fingerboard conditioning and Footless bouldering. Really hard session. Ached afterwards. Stretching
Wed - Rest + Stretching
Thur - Systems board. Damn that Saucy Badger! I can get to the top move of the Frosty project but can't do the last move to a hold called Saucy Badger. I'm getting a bit fed up with this and am starting to think that it's written incorrectly in the projects book. Continuity.
Fri - Weights. 3 sets of 5 power clean at 55 kg, 3 sets of 5 hip thrusts at 105 kg and 3 sets of 5 bench presses at a measly 51 kg. Fingerboard in the evening. Not a great session.
Sat - rest
Sun - bouldering at Curbar. Warm up at Trackside. Easy problems then a very quick repeat of Trackside (f7A). This had taken me ages when I did it two years ago, but felt very straight forward. I then spent a while working Early Doors (f7A+). I did it in two halves, and came close to linking it. This felt like significant progress, and even though I didn't tick it I was pretty pleased.
I also tried the last moves of Gorilla Warfare (I had done the problem a few years ago) and they felt pretty straight forward. The sun was getting quite strong, so we spent some time looking for shady problems. I worked Ben's Wall Traverse (f6C). It was quite technical, and very fun. It took awhile to get the moves, but when I did it felt pretty solid. Whilst walking back to the Gorilla Boulder, we went past Bad Lip (f7A). I thought it would be fun to have a quick go and see what it was like. Rather surprisingly I flashed it. I had a few goes more on Early Doors, but ended up grazing my knuckles. Core and stretching at home in the evening.
I've just had 3 weeks of hard training, so this week will be easier with 3 sessions and 4 rest days. No specific goals for the week, apart from a re-test on the fingerboard. I guess if I'm going to meet the first of my STGs then next week is my opportunity. The grit wore my skin quite heavily, and I'd like to get a few sessions on grit before font.
STG - before Font (8th April)
-7kg hang on lattice rung on right hand for 10 secs, 8kg on left
- Squiggle, squiggle and frosty projects on woody - unlikely
- Small increase in weight training - 5%? - done
- Two short 7A boulders outside. - not sure repeats count, so 1 done
MTG - by end of 2017
- able to get multiple 7A boulders in a day
- some hard short boulders in the 7B territory, and better at traverses - Powerband?
- -4.5kg hang on lattice rung
- improvement in shoulder posture that is noticeable in side by side comparisons in photos taken at start of year.
- improvement in hip flexibility that is noticeable in side by side comparisons of photos of stretches taken at start of year.
LTG - 2018 and beyond
shift focus back to sport climbing, with the goal of ticking 8a projects quickly rather than long sieges of harder routes.
8a in a day.
>TonyB: Sounds like you are in good shape for your trip. Have you go any projects/targets in Font?
Thanks Guy, I'm trying not to have any projects or very defined goals for Font. I'm going with the family as part of a meet with our local climbing club. I have to split time between bouldering and running around the forest with a lightsaber. If I have one goal, it's going to be that our son has a good time, and continues to want to go on holiday to Font.
Mon - Weights. This is improving. 3 sets of 5 deadlifts at 105 kg, 3 sets of 5 dumbell squat presses with 2x 17.5 kg dumbells, 3 sets of 5 wide lat pull downs with 90 kg, 3 sets of 12 low rows and 3 sets of 5 bench press with a very measly 51 kg. I found a website symmetric strength that evaluates performance in various exercises and this confirmed how poor my chest strength is. I hope to improve this a little to get some semblance of balance.
Tue - Pilates, Fingerboard conditioning and Footless bouldering. Really hard session. Ached afterwards. Stretching
Wed - Rest + Stretching
Thur - Systems board. Damn that Saucy Badger! I can get to the top move of the Frosty project but can't do the last move to a hold called Saucy Badger. I'm getting a bit fed up with this and am starting to think that it's written incorrectly in the projects book. Continuity.
Fri - Weights. 3 sets of 5 power clean at 55 kg, 3 sets of 5 hip thrusts at 105 kg and 3 sets of 5 bench presses at a measly 51 kg. Fingerboard in the evening. Not a great session.
Sat - rest
Sun - bouldering at Curbar. Warm up at Trackside. Easy problems then a very quick repeat of Trackside (f7A). This had taken me ages when I did it two years ago, but felt very straight forward. I then spent a while working Early Doors (f7A+). I did it in two halves, and came close to linking it. This felt like significant progress, and even though I didn't tick it I was pretty pleased.
I also tried the last moves of Gorilla Warfare (I had done the problem a few years ago) and they felt pretty straight forward. The sun was getting quite strong, so we spent some time looking for shady problems. I worked Ben's Wall Traverse (f6C). It was quite technical, and very fun. It took awhile to get the moves, but when I did it felt pretty solid. Whilst walking back to the Gorilla Boulder, we went past Bad Lip (f7A). I thought it would be fun to have a quick go and see what it was like. Rather surprisingly I flashed it. I had a few goes more on Early Doors, but ended up grazing my knuckles. Core and stretching at home in the evening.
I've just had 3 weeks of hard training, so this week will be easier with 3 sessions and 4 rest days. No specific goals for the week, apart from a re-test on the fingerboard. I guess if I'm going to meet the first of my STGs then next week is my opportunity. The grit wore my skin quite heavily, and I'd like to get a few sessions on grit before font.
STG - before Font (8th April)
-7kg hang on lattice rung on right hand for 10 secs, 8kg on left
- Squiggle, squiggle and frosty projects on woody - unlikely
- Small increase in weight training - 5%? - done
- Two short 7A boulders outside. - not sure repeats count, so 1 done
MTG - by end of 2017
- able to get multiple 7A boulders in a day
- some hard short boulders in the 7B territory, and better at traverses - Powerband?
- -4.5kg hang on lattice rung
- improvement in shoulder posture that is noticeable in side by side comparisons in photos taken at start of year.
- improvement in hip flexibility that is noticeable in side by side comparisons of photos of stretches taken at start of year.
LTG - 2018 and beyond
shift focus back to sport climbing, with the goal of ticking 8a projects quickly rather than long sieges of harder routes.
8a in a day.
In reply to AJM:
Overall a fun week, good to get out. Portland rock took me by surprise a little bit, took a bunch of routes well below my limit to get my head into it and adjust technique for the rock. I was really enjoying the style by the end of the weekend, and can't wait to go back soon.
Monday: Max hangs 10s on, 1 minute off x 3 for 15 different holds on BM2000 with appropriate weight to make it hard.
5x6mins on/6off at around 6a+
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: AeroCap fingerboard- 7 on 3 off on 15mm edge x6 then 1 minute set rest x 5, 5 minutes off, all x 3, with 10kg assistance.
5x6mins on/6off at around 6a+
Thursday: TRX workout
Friday: Drove to Portland, did a couple of easy routes but mainly just mincing around.
Saturday: 6 beautiful routes 6a-6b for mileage on Blacknor in amazing conditions
Sunday; 6 shortish routes at Cheyne wears including a (soft) 7a, The Accelerator, and a 6c. Ticking a UK 7a was one of my short term goals, so happy with that. Both those routes are micro routes really which suits my current fitness profile and mental approach. I can really get psyched for routes where I can see exactly what to do. On Pregnant Pause (~28m) on Saturday I really felt the mental drain effect of doing a long route.
This week I plan to:
* Stick to Robin plan, executing all sessions.
* Avoid any negative food "episodes" at work
* Stretch well after every session
Overall a fun week, good to get out. Portland rock took me by surprise a little bit, took a bunch of routes well below my limit to get my head into it and adjust technique for the rock. I was really enjoying the style by the end of the weekend, and can't wait to go back soon.
Monday: Max hangs 10s on, 1 minute off x 3 for 15 different holds on BM2000 with appropriate weight to make it hard.
5x6mins on/6off at around 6a+
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: AeroCap fingerboard- 7 on 3 off on 15mm edge x6 then 1 minute set rest x 5, 5 minutes off, all x 3, with 10kg assistance.
5x6mins on/6off at around 6a+
Thursday: TRX workout
Friday: Drove to Portland, did a couple of easy routes but mainly just mincing around.
Saturday: 6 beautiful routes 6a-6b for mileage on Blacknor in amazing conditions
Sunday; 6 shortish routes at Cheyne wears including a (soft) 7a, The Accelerator, and a 6c. Ticking a UK 7a was one of my short term goals, so happy with that. Both those routes are micro routes really which suits my current fitness profile and mental approach. I can really get psyched for routes where I can see exactly what to do. On Pregnant Pause (~28m) on Saturday I really felt the mental drain effect of doing a long route.
This week I plan to:
* Stick to Robin plan, executing all sessions.
* Avoid any negative food "episodes" at work
* Stretch well after every session
Post edited at 13:11
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, I'd better make sure I keep my STG's easy then!
I had a bit of an up and down week, excellent session with Ollie on Monday and then a really good session on Wednesday doing routes in doubles, pushed really hard but despite no pain at the time, my finger was not happy the following couple of days so I had to ditch a bunch of sessions from the plan again and I was convinced I had set the finger healing back a couple of weeks.
Then on Saturday we went to Portland and the finger was great all day despite climbing pretty hard! It gives me faith that I should still be able to play on some hard stuff in Margalef, the finger seems happier outdoors on real rock than it does pulling on plastic which is good.
M: Leave Southampton at 5am, 4 hours work in Midlands before carrying on up to Sheffield for session at Awesome walls with Ollie, catch up with Sheffield friend Jason then back to Midlands for about 9.30pm. Phew. Session was great though, see below
T: Indoor Boulder; continuity, 8 min on 8 min off. Also had a couple of cracks at one of the harder boulders when warming up, it's open handed so fine for my finger, I managed all of the lower moves without cutting loose which is a definite improvement.
W: Indoor Routes; doubles up to 7b x6, Really good session, lots of new routes and I was trying hard! Managed to flash and immediately lap a new 7b which is definitely hard for the grade, my partner struggled on it and he's no slouch. Finger felt ok during the session but was less happy the following day.
T: Core
F: Nothing
S: Portland! Based on wind direction we didn't return to Cheyne Weares, but went to the west coast and Wallsend South instead. My logbook says I went here once a long time ago and I don't understand why I've not been back, it's fantastic. 30+m routes, with actual holds, hardly any polish, even some steep-ish bits. After some warm ups (including the apparent 'top 50' The Jewel of the Isle (6b+) which was absolute bobbins) I tried Breakbeat (7b+) which could hardly have been more disappointing. Dusty and unreadable with crap holds but only for the first two thirds, after that it was wet and unreadable with crap holds. Also felt flipping nails for the grade to me with several cruxy sections. It's not got a logged ascent for 4 years which explains the dust and so there wasn't a lot of chalk to follow.
After that big let down, I decided to have a go at it's neighbour, The Mask (7b) as my mate had just got it first redpoint and offered to shout me beta. The route could hardly have been more different, good holds, obvious, readable sequences and some really nice movements, with the constant stream of beta it was an easy and very enjoyable flash.
Buoyed by that, I had a go at Troll Team Special (7a+)(which is def 7a+) and was rewarded with an onsight of another very enjoyable route. I guess Breakbeat was just a bad choice, or perhaps it would be ok when in condition, but the other two routes were head and shoulders above in terms of quality.
S: Nothing.
So the session on Monday, what I learned is probably old news to a lot of you but I think I underestimated just how much my arms, and specifically my biceps were dominating my climbing. Straightening my arms and learning that feet are useful too was just half the story, I had to get the rest of my body involved too. We worked on using momentum, pushing the hips through an arc to get yourself to where you need to be, and also worked on really pushing through feet as opposed to pulling through my arms. I have improved my footwork in the last couple of years but once in a good position, I was still then pulling with my arms rather than using the good positioning to do more pushing from lower down.
I tried to be conscious of straightening my arm when hanging on a decent hold, my default position is a 135 degree bend at the elbow at all times and I have to literally look at the arm and tell it to straighten before it will relax into a straight position.
I need to drill all of these things until they are second nature.
I also found out that my shoulder engagement is actually pretty decent, which is one less thing to have to concentrate on too hard, and I have pretty good form on all of the antagonist and supplementary exercises, with a couple of small tweaks. I've picked up some new exercises and stretches that should be good for me specifically.
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef - FAIL
Focus on getting momentum from the legs on easier ground - TICK
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef -
Focus on getting momentum from the legs on easier ground -
MTG: (next few months)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving slowly
Tick Doctor Feelgood (8a) in April
8a+
Recce some potential 8b projects in Margalef for October
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 1 done 1 booked and 2 in the planning stage
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
> DanDan: I think your STGs are good- we expect you to tick them all every week…
Cheers Guy, I'd better make sure I keep my STG's easy then!
I had a bit of an up and down week, excellent session with Ollie on Monday and then a really good session on Wednesday doing routes in doubles, pushed really hard but despite no pain at the time, my finger was not happy the following couple of days so I had to ditch a bunch of sessions from the plan again and I was convinced I had set the finger healing back a couple of weeks.
Then on Saturday we went to Portland and the finger was great all day despite climbing pretty hard! It gives me faith that I should still be able to play on some hard stuff in Margalef, the finger seems happier outdoors on real rock than it does pulling on plastic which is good.
M: Leave Southampton at 5am, 4 hours work in Midlands before carrying on up to Sheffield for session at Awesome walls with Ollie, catch up with Sheffield friend Jason then back to Midlands for about 9.30pm. Phew. Session was great though, see below
T: Indoor Boulder; continuity, 8 min on 8 min off. Also had a couple of cracks at one of the harder boulders when warming up, it's open handed so fine for my finger, I managed all of the lower moves without cutting loose which is a definite improvement.
W: Indoor Routes; doubles up to 7b x6, Really good session, lots of new routes and I was trying hard! Managed to flash and immediately lap a new 7b which is definitely hard for the grade, my partner struggled on it and he's no slouch. Finger felt ok during the session but was less happy the following day.
T: Core
F: Nothing
S: Portland! Based on wind direction we didn't return to Cheyne Weares, but went to the west coast and Wallsend South instead. My logbook says I went here once a long time ago and I don't understand why I've not been back, it's fantastic. 30+m routes, with actual holds, hardly any polish, even some steep-ish bits. After some warm ups (including the apparent 'top 50' The Jewel of the Isle (6b+) which was absolute bobbins) I tried Breakbeat (7b+) which could hardly have been more disappointing. Dusty and unreadable with crap holds but only for the first two thirds, after that it was wet and unreadable with crap holds. Also felt flipping nails for the grade to me with several cruxy sections. It's not got a logged ascent for 4 years which explains the dust and so there wasn't a lot of chalk to follow.
After that big let down, I decided to have a go at it's neighbour, The Mask (7b) as my mate had just got it first redpoint and offered to shout me beta. The route could hardly have been more different, good holds, obvious, readable sequences and some really nice movements, with the constant stream of beta it was an easy and very enjoyable flash.
Buoyed by that, I had a go at Troll Team Special (7a+)(which is def 7a+) and was rewarded with an onsight of another very enjoyable route. I guess Breakbeat was just a bad choice, or perhaps it would be ok when in condition, but the other two routes were head and shoulders above in terms of quality.
S: Nothing.
So the session on Monday, what I learned is probably old news to a lot of you but I think I underestimated just how much my arms, and specifically my biceps were dominating my climbing. Straightening my arms and learning that feet are useful too was just half the story, I had to get the rest of my body involved too. We worked on using momentum, pushing the hips through an arc to get yourself to where you need to be, and also worked on really pushing through feet as opposed to pulling through my arms. I have improved my footwork in the last couple of years but once in a good position, I was still then pulling with my arms rather than using the good positioning to do more pushing from lower down.
I tried to be conscious of straightening my arm when hanging on a decent hold, my default position is a 135 degree bend at the elbow at all times and I have to literally look at the arm and tell it to straighten before it will relax into a straight position.
I need to drill all of these things until they are second nature.
I also found out that my shoulder engagement is actually pretty decent, which is one less thing to have to concentrate on too hard, and I have pretty good form on all of the antagonist and supplementary exercises, with a couple of small tweaks. I've picked up some new exercises and stretches that should be good for me specifically.
Last weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef - FAIL
Focus on getting momentum from the legs on easier ground - TICK
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
At least 1 session on the pockets ready for margalef -
Focus on getting momentum from the legs on easier ground -
MTG: (next few months)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving slowly
Tick Doctor Feelgood (8a) in April
8a+
Recce some potential 8b projects in Margalef for October
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 1 done 1 booked and 2 in the planning stage
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
2
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks! I am very much enjoying just sharing my training and goals. I find it's quite interesting to keep a weekly record as well.
I tend to have a long summer climbing trip in Spain as well and it's good to track weekly progress and read about other's training.
Last week:
Monday - rest.
Tuesday - quick session - max. hangs, about 6 max. hangs on each arm, good rests in between. Followed by a bit of bouldering and 20 minutes aerocap on the bouldering wall.
Thursday - took part in a friendly local wall competition - excellent day, did over 10 routes in total, onsighting everything up to 7b, the 7s were on the soft side, however really enjoyed the flow of climbing so many routes quite fast. I thought the easy day on Tuesday really helped to be in good shape.
I now only have have a 7c and and 8a left on the main wall there. Thinking of concentrating efforts on the indoor 8a over the next month or so and treating it as a long redpoint circuit. Lots of fun sessions on it hopefully await!
Friday - rest, lots of cooking and eating nice food.
Saturday - LPT - gorgeous day, climbed quite poorly and did not tick anything! I guess just a day of waking up outdoor movement.. tried a 6c+/7a called thick skinned which was supposed to be a warm up. Basically one hard move on the whole route and I failed to remember which holds to pull on over 4 times from the ground! Need to work on remembering techy sequences. Gorgeous day in the sun though.
Sunday - indoor training - warm up followed by some attempts on the harder problems - V7/V8ish. Managed a few nice moves. Foot on campusing for power endurance, followed by a bit of aerocap and some stretching. Arms hurt however, I'm currently enjoying supercompensating and eating nice food!
Thanks! I am very much enjoying just sharing my training and goals. I find it's quite interesting to keep a weekly record as well.
I tend to have a long summer climbing trip in Spain as well and it's good to track weekly progress and read about other's training.
Last week:
Monday - rest.
Tuesday - quick session - max. hangs, about 6 max. hangs on each arm, good rests in between. Followed by a bit of bouldering and 20 minutes aerocap on the bouldering wall.
Thursday - took part in a friendly local wall competition - excellent day, did over 10 routes in total, onsighting everything up to 7b, the 7s were on the soft side, however really enjoyed the flow of climbing so many routes quite fast. I thought the easy day on Tuesday really helped to be in good shape.
I now only have have a 7c and and 8a left on the main wall there. Thinking of concentrating efforts on the indoor 8a over the next month or so and treating it as a long redpoint circuit. Lots of fun sessions on it hopefully await!
Friday - rest, lots of cooking and eating nice food.
Saturday - LPT - gorgeous day, climbed quite poorly and did not tick anything! I guess just a day of waking up outdoor movement.. tried a 6c+/7a called thick skinned which was supposed to be a warm up. Basically one hard move on the whole route and I failed to remember which holds to pull on over 4 times from the ground! Need to work on remembering techy sequences. Gorgeous day in the sun though.
Sunday - indoor training - warm up followed by some attempts on the harder problems - V7/V8ish. Managed a few nice moves. Foot on campusing for power endurance, followed by a bit of aerocap and some stretching. Arms hurt however, I'm currently enjoying supercompensating and eating nice food!
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
I managed one climb this week. A session at Stockport on Wed before coaching. Found everything V5 and above hard on the UKC side - which was supposed to be my warming up. Went over to steep side and couldn't repeat any of the problems I did last week. Deffo something not right. Felt OK though, just no oomph. Did some core stuff and stretching instead. Been a bit lax on the cardio/physio front so need to get on that this week.
Had a great day with the squad at the YCS with 5 podiums including a 1,2,3 in one category. The kids were amazing and I felt a very happy coach as everyone climbed as well as they could on the day and all went home feeling chuffed whether they got a medal or not. Onwards for the national final next month now and serious work towards GB development squad for 3 of them. Good times.
Last week at Uni before 3 weeks off. I have to balance with my kids and earning some pennies to see me through next term but i'm hoping for some outdoor action. Where depends on weather but i'm hoping for N Wales and i'll just be happy to get out and don't care if it's trad, sport or bouldering.
Cheers Guy.
I managed one climb this week. A session at Stockport on Wed before coaching. Found everything V5 and above hard on the UKC side - which was supposed to be my warming up. Went over to steep side and couldn't repeat any of the problems I did last week. Deffo something not right. Felt OK though, just no oomph. Did some core stuff and stretching instead. Been a bit lax on the cardio/physio front so need to get on that this week.
Had a great day with the squad at the YCS with 5 podiums including a 1,2,3 in one category. The kids were amazing and I felt a very happy coach as everyone climbed as well as they could on the day and all went home feeling chuffed whether they got a medal or not. Onwards for the national final next month now and serious work towards GB development squad for 3 of them. Good times.
Last week at Uni before 3 weeks off. I have to balance with my kids and earning some pennies to see me through next term but i'm hoping for some outdoor action. Where depends on weather but i'm hoping for N Wales and i'll just be happy to get out and don't care if it's trad, sport or bouldering.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Evening FitClub, thanks Guy. Busy bloody week and many more set to come till the extension is finished. Oh how I laughed when the sun shone all weekend on the weekend I didn't have a climbing pass when it pissed it down last weekend when I did. On the upside afterwork climbing on a Friday is now a possibility again as the clocks have changed. Nothing else to report apart from injury saga continues.
Mon - Redpoint, lots of failing on steep blues. Good to get on them, bad to run out of courage and fall off without committing.
Tues - Nothing, life took over. Trip to Physio. New exercise heel drops, 3 sets 12.
Weds - Physio Exercises. P47, S51.
Thurs - Banff Film Festival! Did heel drops in the interval - nerd.
Fri - Physio Exercises.
Sat - Nothing
Sun -Physio Exercises.
Weight: ??? (+/- ???)
Injury report: WTF. I mean seriously WTF. A new area of concern has arrived on my left heel, physio said it could be something to do with the achilles tendon attachment which apparently takes forever to heal. Arghhhh. In other left leg news it appears to be replaying its injury greatest hits, revisiting various old problems in my ankle and groin. I hope this is a positive - as the physio works on the releasing the bits that have been overcompensating to protect the broken bits the broken bits start hurting again. At least this is what I am telling myself.
Exercises: 2 min press-ups, 2 min each leg leg stands with rotations, 2 mins sit ups, leg lifts on side 2 set 12, 1min front plank, 30 sec each side plank, 1 min front plank, 30 sec each side plank. 3 sets 12 heel drops, combination of both legs at once and each leg singly.
New Goals:
Short Term (through to April 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Get up a 6c at the wall. Get running again. Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.
Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall & Petros at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock.
Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.
Evening FitClub, thanks Guy. Busy bloody week and many more set to come till the extension is finished. Oh how I laughed when the sun shone all weekend on the weekend I didn't have a climbing pass when it pissed it down last weekend when I did. On the upside afterwork climbing on a Friday is now a possibility again as the clocks have changed. Nothing else to report apart from injury saga continues.
Mon - Redpoint, lots of failing on steep blues. Good to get on them, bad to run out of courage and fall off without committing.
Tues - Nothing, life took over. Trip to Physio. New exercise heel drops, 3 sets 12.
Weds - Physio Exercises. P47, S51.
Thurs - Banff Film Festival! Did heel drops in the interval - nerd.
Fri - Physio Exercises.
Sat - Nothing
Sun -Physio Exercises.
Weight: ??? (+/- ???)
Injury report: WTF. I mean seriously WTF. A new area of concern has arrived on my left heel, physio said it could be something to do with the achilles tendon attachment which apparently takes forever to heal. Arghhhh. In other left leg news it appears to be replaying its injury greatest hits, revisiting various old problems in my ankle and groin. I hope this is a positive - as the physio works on the releasing the bits that have been overcompensating to protect the broken bits the broken bits start hurting again. At least this is what I am telling myself.
Exercises: 2 min press-ups, 2 min each leg leg stands with rotations, 2 mins sit ups, leg lifts on side 2 set 12, 1min front plank, 30 sec each side plank, 1 min front plank, 30 sec each side plank. 3 sets 12 heel drops, combination of both legs at once and each leg singly.
New Goals:
Short Term (through to April 2017). Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins. Sit-ups 55 in 2 min. Get up a 6c at the wall. Get running again. Get outside at least once a month. Alternate trips to the wall and the pool in different weeks.
Medium Term (before September 2017): Unknown Wall & Petros at Avon, The other Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi, Freedom at Wintours. Run a 10k again. Tick 3 more classic rock.
Long Term : I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH, Cenotaph Corner.
Post edited at 22:37
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. Just a heads up that I've been finding Fitclub really helpful so far, especially as an opportunity to take 10 minutes to evaluate the week's training.
I haven't really noticed the extra 2kg too much, but that may be because a) its the winter and b) I think quite a bit of it is extra muscle. Most of my top routes are slabby tech fests, I'm generally quite weak as a climber and have taken pride in the past that I've been able to do E5 without being able to do a pull-up, but need to become more rounded. I do normally put on some weight over the winter (who doesn't) and look to drop back down during the summer period. I'm aiming to get back down to 69-70kg over the next three/four weeks, so shall keep you posted!
Onto this week - a busy one with work and the sun came out. As such I decided to have a week off running in an attempt to rekindle my mojo. Went to my first club session ins ages yesterday (Monday) and was actually keen to run even though I'd been out on the bike earlier in the day, so seemed like a good move!
Monday:
Yoga
Fingerboard work: 1 arm deadhangs on the big jug, 3 reps per side and 6 sets w. 1 arm negative pull ups, 3 per side and 6 sets. 4 min rests for all.
TRX: Reverse crunches 45 secs x 4, Plank 45 secs x 4. 1 min rests.
Tuesday:
Yoga
Felt dead after yesterday so an impromptu rest (which inspired the running break)
Wednesday:
Yoga
Bike as the sun came out! 37km, 519m elevation. Really enjoyed.
Random lantern session at Clarach Bay - a local, esoteric bouldering spot. Mainly messed around but did some easy (6A ish) stuff.
Thursday:
Outdoor climbing finally! Getting back into the swing of it at Castle Inn Quarry - 7 5-6a routes, and the Cakewalk (6b+) which I found easier than expected. Good to get out again
Friday:
Yoga
Rest day (planned). Bit naughty on food as our new M&S opened the day before...
Saturday:
Weekend up north planned. Took some friends to for their first/second day at Gogarth South Stack out there, climbing in a three so stuck with VS an big belays. Couple of routes, did all the leading and remembered how to lead onsight trad so was a useful day in that respect and very enjoyable.
Sunday:Tremadog today, and felt slow to start with the earlier morning. Did a couple of VSs, one as a warm up and one which a friend wanted to lead. Also did Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b) which I found really easy, so maybe a winter of training has worked out...
Plan for this week is to get out for a long cycle (actually already done...) and get back up to >40km a week running. Couple of fingerboard sessions planned and hopefully a day out (trying some E2/3s) or failing that an indoor routes session.
Down by 0.5 to 70.9 kg this week.
STG (4 weeks):
-Parkrun PB to 18:30 (currently 18:41) before Font Trip (so mid-April) - tried and failed on 18/3
-4 x 6C and 1 x 7A in Font (Early/mid April) - looking like I may be to poor for this so may need to re-evaluate...
-Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech
MTG (2 months):
-Top 25 in Cadair Idris Fell Race (May)
-E3 not in the slate quarries or on grit (open to suggestions in North Wales!, n.b I hate limestone)
-Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
-Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
LTG (6 months):
-Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
-RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
-Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Cheers Guy. Just a heads up that I've been finding Fitclub really helpful so far, especially as an opportunity to take 10 minutes to evaluate the week's training.
I haven't really noticed the extra 2kg too much, but that may be because a) its the winter and b) I think quite a bit of it is extra muscle. Most of my top routes are slabby tech fests, I'm generally quite weak as a climber and have taken pride in the past that I've been able to do E5 without being able to do a pull-up, but need to become more rounded. I do normally put on some weight over the winter (who doesn't) and look to drop back down during the summer period. I'm aiming to get back down to 69-70kg over the next three/four weeks, so shall keep you posted!
Onto this week - a busy one with work and the sun came out. As such I decided to have a week off running in an attempt to rekindle my mojo. Went to my first club session ins ages yesterday (Monday) and was actually keen to run even though I'd been out on the bike earlier in the day, so seemed like a good move!
Monday:
Yoga
Fingerboard work: 1 arm deadhangs on the big jug, 3 reps per side and 6 sets w. 1 arm negative pull ups, 3 per side and 6 sets. 4 min rests for all.
TRX: Reverse crunches 45 secs x 4, Plank 45 secs x 4. 1 min rests.
Tuesday:
Yoga
Felt dead after yesterday so an impromptu rest (which inspired the running break)
Wednesday:
Yoga
Bike as the sun came out! 37km, 519m elevation. Really enjoyed.
Random lantern session at Clarach Bay - a local, esoteric bouldering spot. Mainly messed around but did some easy (6A ish) stuff.
Thursday:
Outdoor climbing finally! Getting back into the swing of it at Castle Inn Quarry - 7 5-6a routes, and the Cakewalk (6b+) which I found easier than expected. Good to get out again
Friday:
Yoga
Rest day (planned). Bit naughty on food as our new M&S opened the day before...
Saturday:
Weekend up north planned. Took some friends to for their first/second day at Gogarth South Stack out there, climbing in a three so stuck with VS an big belays. Couple of routes, did all the leading and remembered how to lead onsight trad so was a useful day in that respect and very enjoyable.
Sunday:Tremadog today, and felt slow to start with the earlier morning. Did a couple of VSs, one as a warm up and one which a friend wanted to lead. Also did Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b) which I found really easy, so maybe a winter of training has worked out...
Plan for this week is to get out for a long cycle (actually already done...) and get back up to >40km a week running. Couple of fingerboard sessions planned and hopefully a day out (trying some E2/3s) or failing that an indoor routes session.
Down by 0.5 to 70.9 kg this week.
STG (4 weeks):
-Parkrun PB to 18:30 (currently 18:41) before Font Trip (so mid-April) - tried and failed on 18/3
-4 x 6C and 1 x 7A in Font (Early/mid April) - looking like I may be to poor for this so may need to re-evaluate...
-Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech
MTG (2 months):
-Top 25 in Cadair Idris Fell Race (May)
-E3 not in the slate quarries or on grit (open to suggestions in North Wales!, n.b I hate limestone)
-Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
-Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
LTG (6 months):
-Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
-RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
-Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Post edited at 09:10
In reply to guy127917:
I'm back or rather still here. Last week was a 'deloading' week and I deloaded from here as well! Whoops. Work been hectic, and I have three days left of a serous course of meds for a long standing health issue, these have really stuffed my sleep so have been in the nether-lands slightly.
Over past two weeks I have finished the first block of four strength based weeks, then the deloading week and have just started the second block of four weeks strength. Will probably be able to restructure work slightly after this week to give me some more flexibility, this means I will be more able to get out. We agreed at the start of this plan I would do 2x1.5 hour sessions and one 2 hour session per week, religiously as a non-negotiable bottom line. I have managed this and worked at it as well but do want to get out. The weather has not played ball with plans on two occasions and other commitments have scuppered getting out on good days, this should improve a bit in the new financial year. I have also agreed with my wife that we can go some where with loads of climbing for summer hols as I will just be entering first peak phase then-not quite but almost.
Have not got full details of every day to hand but-
Week 252
M-Cycle, work
Tues-Good bouldering, TCA, moon board and blues.
W-?
Thurs-Repeaters and ARC. Half crimp and 3 finger open, added more weight on both. Need to use different rungs for next lot as campus rail too sharp for openhanded.
F?
Sat-First deloading, poor session, knackered and had fractious meeting at college beforehand.
Sun-Cycled with small bouldering mat to Bathford. Short but good sessions, feet very greasy but repeated both L-R traverses and a straight up problem only ever done once. Got a lovely move on it. Cycled home into rain.
Week 253
M-Cycled in 19 miles.
T-?
W-Was going to Taffs Wells but poring with rain, great session at TCA, ticked all the yellows (5+-6B) I tried, in hindsight the slightly easier end of the room and ticked a blue that has bugged me for a while. Spent some time trying to work out a 12ish move problem on the woody for 'an-cap style' session in next block of four.
T ?
Fri-Long day at work.
Sat-Aged P's 85 birthday.
Sun-First of new strength bloc. Focusing on big moves using momentum, I am way to static, apparently (i agree) this can be done in or out and I can go bouldering on a rope-i go and work a hard (for me) route at Cheddar etc. Just needs to be intense on problems I cant do-no pottering.
Have been keeping up shoulder strength and yoga in the gaps.
Rich
I'm back or rather still here. Last week was a 'deloading' week and I deloaded from here as well! Whoops. Work been hectic, and I have three days left of a serous course of meds for a long standing health issue, these have really stuffed my sleep so have been in the nether-lands slightly.
Over past two weeks I have finished the first block of four strength based weeks, then the deloading week and have just started the second block of four weeks strength. Will probably be able to restructure work slightly after this week to give me some more flexibility, this means I will be more able to get out. We agreed at the start of this plan I would do 2x1.5 hour sessions and one 2 hour session per week, religiously as a non-negotiable bottom line. I have managed this and worked at it as well but do want to get out. The weather has not played ball with plans on two occasions and other commitments have scuppered getting out on good days, this should improve a bit in the new financial year. I have also agreed with my wife that we can go some where with loads of climbing for summer hols as I will just be entering first peak phase then-not quite but almost.
Have not got full details of every day to hand but-
Week 252
M-Cycle, work
Tues-Good bouldering, TCA, moon board and blues.
W-?
Thurs-Repeaters and ARC. Half crimp and 3 finger open, added more weight on both. Need to use different rungs for next lot as campus rail too sharp for openhanded.
F?
Sat-First deloading, poor session, knackered and had fractious meeting at college beforehand.
Sun-Cycled with small bouldering mat to Bathford. Short but good sessions, feet very greasy but repeated both L-R traverses and a straight up problem only ever done once. Got a lovely move on it. Cycled home into rain.
Week 253
M-Cycled in 19 miles.
T-?
W-Was going to Taffs Wells but poring with rain, great session at TCA, ticked all the yellows (5+-6B) I tried, in hindsight the slightly easier end of the room and ticked a blue that has bugged me for a while. Spent some time trying to work out a 12ish move problem on the woody for 'an-cap style' session in next block of four.
T ?
Fri-Long day at work.
Sat-Aged P's 85 birthday.
Sun-First of new strength bloc. Focusing on big moves using momentum, I am way to static, apparently (i agree) this can be done in or out and I can go bouldering on a rope-i go and work a hard (for me) route at Cheddar etc. Just needs to be intense on problems I cant do-no pottering.
Have been keeping up shoulder strength and yoga in the gaps.
Rich
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, tentative plans for a long weekend in South Wales in late April. Was thinking of Pembroke, but now leaning towards giving the sports climbing down that way a go.
M - Away
T - Away
W - Lunch: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: 3 x 3s Sandbag workout - 3 min rests.
Sandbag Rotational Lunge - 25kg
Sandbag Power Clean - 25kg
Sandbag Military Press - 25kg
Going for 30kg next week, will probably struggle to fit more than that in the bag…
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Wk 1 - Test Wk. Front 3 Open 25mm - 74kg (+2)
Going for different grip this time around, just made 10 secs at this weight, so see how it goes
F - Rest
S - Fedw Fawr sports climbing. 6a+, 6b to warm up.
Then jumped on a 6c+, boulder problem start, got 3rd go once I’d figured out where the holds were. Then up to penultimate bolt with one fall, before a big wet streak ended progress. So not a bad effort.
S - Penmaen Head sports climbing. 6a+, 6a+, 6b to warm up.
6c onsight attempt - Got wrong handed at the top on some blind arete holds. Jumped for the finishing jug, but an inch short…
6c onsight attempt 2 - got to final moves, couldn’t find a good hold round the arete again, tried from a poor hold, but fell. Quick hang on rope and tried again, found a stonking great jug round the arete. Finished easily...
Happy with my efforts though, so close on two reasonably blind and unchalked routes.
> Spengler: Cool, so what’s the next trip?
Cheers Guy, tentative plans for a long weekend in South Wales in late April. Was thinking of Pembroke, but now leaning towards giving the sports climbing down that way a go.
M - Away
T - Away
W - Lunch: 4 x 10 Feet raised push ups
Evening: 30 min yoga stretching
T - Lunch: 4 x 5 Tricep Dips
Evening: 3 x 3s Sandbag workout - 3 min rests.
Sandbag Rotational Lunge - 25kg
Sandbag Power Clean - 25kg
Sandbag Military Press - 25kg
Going for 30kg next week, will probably struggle to fit more than that in the bag…
Steve Maisch Max Hang Fingerboard. Wk 1 - Test Wk. Front 3 Open 25mm - 74kg (+2)
Going for different grip this time around, just made 10 secs at this weight, so see how it goes
F - Rest
S - Fedw Fawr sports climbing. 6a+, 6b to warm up.
Then jumped on a 6c+, boulder problem start, got 3rd go once I’d figured out where the holds were. Then up to penultimate bolt with one fall, before a big wet streak ended progress. So not a bad effort.
S - Penmaen Head sports climbing. 6a+, 6a+, 6b to warm up.
6c onsight attempt - Got wrong handed at the top on some blind arete holds. Jumped for the finishing jug, but an inch short…
6c onsight attempt 2 - got to final moves, couldn’t find a good hold round the arete again, tried from a poor hold, but fell. Quick hang on rope and tried again, found a stonking great jug round the arete. Finished easily...
Happy with my efforts though, so close on two reasonably blind and unchalked routes.
In reply to guy127917:
This week I had hoped for one more indoor session but I'm in Athens airport now so its been 5 days rest which I couldn't really afford (it worked for Alain Ghersan though!). Weight is consistently at or below 10'8"which is a positive
> Did you manage to up the volume this week?
I don't think I did. This was the last full week before my Kalymnos trip and I've still not managed to redpoint harder than 7a indoors never mind be on-sighting at the level I want to be on this hols although I am feeling stronger and lighter than I have for a couple of years so I may be OK and there is usually a couple of grades difference between my indoor and out door grade (although this still means I'll fail to redpoint most 7b!). One positive is that I went to the Depot in Sunday and flashed to the last move on the 7a+ circuit, this is good for me (my next go ended at the same point) it was good because I actually got pumped rather than powering out at the first hard move. Other than that I had session at Stockport and a couple more bouldering sessions. This week I had hoped for one more indoor session but I'm in Athens airport now so its been 5 days rest which I couldn't really afford (it worked for Alain Ghersan though!). Weight is consistently at or below 10'8"which is a positive
Post edited at 12:43
In reply to guy127917:
My mobility is pretty good I think, nothing I've had trouble with so far. Hips and legs are maybe above average, upper body is good but not more than average mobility I think. I stretch both every night and foam roll some about every other night before bed.
Status since last time:
Went to Rjukan and got my first pitches in on the hallowed Rjukan ice. It was very late in the season so everything was melting and falling apart. It was up to 8 degrees on day one and 12 (!) degrees on day 2. Day 2 there were blocks falling from the steeper routes so we did some easier ones and stayed away from the fall lines.
Learned setting up anchors, multipitch climbing and got some repetition on rappelling. Did my first "lead" where I went up an easy snow hill to set up an anchor above the top rope anchor.
Did my first mixed climb where I climbed a WI3 route without using axes on a dare by the instructor to work on foot placements. He said it was something like an M5 variation I did.
Only got about 6 pitches in total due to all the learning that had to be done. I had huge improvements in technique. Didn't get pumped or feel unsafe or fall once.
So new MTG for next year: Put in a bunch of long days to work through the 150 top rope pitches so I can start leading. Just grit my teeth and power through it ASAP
My mobility is pretty good I think, nothing I've had trouble with so far. Hips and legs are maybe above average, upper body is good but not more than average mobility I think. I stretch both every night and foam roll some about every other night before bed.
Status since last time:
Went to Rjukan and got my first pitches in on the hallowed Rjukan ice. It was very late in the season so everything was melting and falling apart. It was up to 8 degrees on day one and 12 (!) degrees on day 2. Day 2 there were blocks falling from the steeper routes so we did some easier ones and stayed away from the fall lines.
Learned setting up anchors, multipitch climbing and got some repetition on rappelling. Did my first "lead" where I went up an easy snow hill to set up an anchor above the top rope anchor.
Did my first mixed climb where I climbed a WI3 route without using axes on a dare by the instructor to work on foot placements. He said it was something like an M5 variation I did.
Only got about 6 pitches in total due to all the learning that had to be done. I had huge improvements in technique. Didn't get pumped or feel unsafe or fall once.
So new MTG for next year: Put in a bunch of long days to work through the 150 top rope pitches so I can start leading. Just grit my teeth and power through it ASAP
Post edited at 23:03
In reply to guy127917:
Very sneaky and last minute and still no goals but I have started training properly again!
M - coaching and autobelay
T - conditioning
W - rest
T - core
F - snuck up to the Peak in the afternoon to do some local limestone posing for the new guidebook
S - Ramshaw. Soloing and some routes - got absolutely mauled seconding Imposition (E2 5b) which is definitely E2 whatever UKC says. Exposed my inability to jam above fist size. Then zipped back to run a black tie Dinner at work with tight to cover the injuries and a cardigan over the forearm grit rash...
S - quick session at Craggy and some visiting people
Very sneaky and last minute and still no goals but I have started training properly again!
M - coaching and autobelay
T - conditioning
W - rest
T - core
F - snuck up to the Peak in the afternoon to do some local limestone posing for the new guidebook
S - Ramshaw. Soloing and some routes - got absolutely mauled seconding Imposition (E2 5b) which is definitely E2 whatever UKC says. Exposed my inability to jam above fist size. Then zipped back to run a black tie Dinner at work with tight to cover the injuries and a cardigan over the forearm grit rash...
S - quick session at Craggy and some visiting people
In reply to AJM:
Also sneaking in at the last minute! I'll post goals next week, honest. Main focus currently is to climb a second 7c having done my first one quite a long time ago now...
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Rest. Should have gone to the wall but still too wiped out to face it.
Thurs: Fingerboard.
Fri: Fingerboard am. Wall pm. 1 on, 1 off x10. Doubles at 6c+ x6. 8 mins on, 8 mins off x2.
Sat: Wall. Short circuits session. 20 problems/25 mins x2. Rings.
Sun: Wall. Circuits. Pullups.
Also sneaking in at the last minute! I'll post goals next week, honest. Main focus currently is to climb a second 7c having done my first one quite a long time ago now...
Mon: Rest.
Tues: Rest.
Wedns: Rest. Should have gone to the wall but still too wiped out to face it.
Thurs: Fingerboard.
Fri: Fingerboard am. Wall pm. 1 on, 1 off x10. Doubles at 6c+ x6. 8 mins on, 8 mins off x2.
Sat: Wall. Short circuits session. 20 problems/25 mins x2. Rings.
Sun: Wall. Circuits. Pullups.
In reply to AJM:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 10lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Indoor routes
T - 4k run
F - Indoor route
S - Rest
S - Gardening
Decent number of sessions. Did a wodge of gardening at the weekend. No weight change, just not motivated.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 10lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Indoor routes
T - 4k run
F - Indoor route
S - Rest
S - Gardening
Decent number of sessions. Did a wodge of gardening at the weekend. No weight change, just not motivated.
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