In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, a decent week for me, albeit with no outdoor climbing and a bit of a re-tweak of the finger, but I like to stay positive...
M: Nothing
T: Indoor Boulder; 1 rep of problem at 90% of max, then 8 hand movements on big campus rungs. Rest 3min and repeat x8. I made a nice problem on the woody at The Project which worked beautifully for this session.
W: Indoor Boulder comp; Flash style so 25 problems with potential max of 250 points. I got 198 which I was quite pleased with, I didn't drop any silly points and the 4 hardest problems were beyond me but I didn't see anyone else get close to my high points on them. Imagine my surprise then when the scores came out and I was 8th, rubbish. I can only guess that those people flashed all the ones I did and then got the 2 that took me three tries in less goes, as first place only got 210.
The setting was not bad but there weren't enough mid-range problems and the hard ones were a bit too hard for 25-problems-in-3-hours format.
I think I overdid it on the finger on a crimpy woody problem, has been a little sore since.
T: Nothing
F: Indoor Boulder; Epic morning of effort, 2.5 sessions in one hit!
Rings and bar
Broken 40's - 4 reps of problem with 20 sec rests, 2 sets
2 on 1 off x10 - Did this on the new circuits that they have put across the adjoining 15 and 30 degree boards. The
circuits are useful but they do get in the way of the woody problems on the 30 board.
Also went home and ripped up the kitchen floor ready for a new one to be laid. So broken.
S: All of the DOMS. Mooched about painting window frames and being generally knackered
S: Indoor routes; Back to Calshot, and hooray, they have a new route! But surprise surprise it's graded 7a despite being at least hard 7a+, really cruxy and generally not very good. Rubbish.
Resorted to pairs of routes x6 using the 7b+ (only good route in the building), actually used the whole route this time, (it's only 7b at most really, and arguably easier than the new '7a')
New STG:
* Stretch hamstrings and/or hips every session -
* All 6 sessions on plan (+ potential outdoor at weekend)
* Investigate top secret lattice board at The Project and see if I can get access for self assessing
MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger taken a knock this week
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - Getting close
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 1/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year