In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, not broken yet although I am feeling a little ragged around the edges!
M: Indoor Boulder; doubles on system board (woody) now using problem that is considerably harder than my last problem but i'm making similar progress. 4 sets instead of the required 6.
Boulder combo; 25 moves hard circuit followed my medium boulder flash attempt followed by 15 moves of circuit. 2 sets instead of the required 3
T: TRX; low rows, front flys, reverse flys, typewriters on rings - did sets of 5,5,4,0 which is much improved over 3,3,2,2 a couple of weeks back.
Lower body stretching
W: Indoor Boulder; hard problem repeat 7 times with 2.5 min rests. Only did 2 sets of the required 3
Lever lifts and kicks; various front lever progression holds and lifts
T: Wedding, at which I may have inadvertently got incredibly drunk.
F: Antagonist Theraband; various shoulder movements.
Failed to do boulder session and fingerboard session due to hangover
S: Outdoor, Portland; Finally got on
Prison Sex (7c+) and it was worth the wait! Pure power endurance on small holds, 18 moves from the floor to safety with some great climbing in between. I did and linked into and out of every move by my second tie-in, and the whole thing in 2 hangs on my 3rd tie in. There's a vid on YouTube of my friend Louis climbing the route which has given me some alternate beta for some moves, I definitely need to take a bit of intensity out of some parts for it to feel like 7c+ to me. I might need to skip the final hard clip too, which will make it spicy, I just can't see a way of clipping it without extending it so far that it's barely worth it.
S: Fingerboard; 2 hand, 10 sec hangs on AA edge and lower outer BM2K edge, lower edge at +20kg.
Lever lifts and kicks; as above, big improvements coming here.
The other exciting thing that happened this week was I got a new Clipstick! It's a new product from a couple of climbers in Dorset, the company is called Pongoose, check them out on the facebook.
It's a fantastic piece of kit, very well developed, versatile, well made and it looks cool too. I won't bang on about it too much but it clips draws and ropes up so much more easily than a beta stick, it also removes draws really easily which impressed me. The best bit is putting up clips mid-route, it holds the draw so solidly that you can lift it up towards your bolt and pull rope from the floor instead of having to pull a load of slack into your lap to take the weight off the stick so the draw doesn't pop out. It's so much faster to use, and much less faff.
My fingers are still not fixed but not any worse which is nice, easier week this week then it's 10 days of tufa wrestling which should give them a good rest.
Last Weeks STG:
* don't agitate fingers, Kaly is 2 weeks away - Tick
* get on Prison sex this weekend - Tick, it's amazeballs
new STG:
* don't agitate fingers, Kaly is 1 week away
* get back on Prison sex this weekend, refine beta, do it in 1 hang.
* Solid 5 second front lever, perfect form.
MTG: (next few months)
* Maybe an 8a in Kaly, Sardonique is a prime target
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back on track
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 2/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year