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UKC FitClub Week 540
Afternoon FitClubbers!
I cannot believe it has been 40 weeks since the 500th FitClub, I suddenly wonder what I have been doing with my time! although I have been on a training plan for that whole time, I don’t feel 40 weeks worth of effort fitter if you know what I mean? I guess it’s a slow steady process that gets us safely where we need to be without any injuries…
How have things changed for you in the last 9 months or so?
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=667616
Last Weeks Posters:
The Fasting - I saw that thread that you started, it did seem to have a fair bit of cynicism in it, hope you gleaned some good advice from it somewhere, you certainly can’t go wrong by working on footwork.
Tyler - is a soft-touch 7c in Siurana if you were interested (but also very good, worth climbing at any grade)
AJM - Well done on King of Drunks, and all the other stuff too! Good that you managed to balance a family holiday with a climbing holiday
Biscuit - Beer and chips, the new revolutionary fat loss diet?! St Bees sounds great
AlanLittle - I’m not sure about the clip skipping but maybe boulder 4x4’s on steep to build that PE? I find with more power comes significant confidence…
Hms - Ah, indoor grading, don’t get me started. There seems to be a blanket refusal to listen to feedback from some walls.
Planetmarshall - I thought the point of trad was that it took forever to do routes, it’s just climbing with extra faff, right? :P *hides behind something sturdy*
Ally Smith - Good job crossing your fingers for dry weather! Are you going to be battling seepage for a while again now? I assume its as wet up north as it is down south?
The sheep - 16minute km sounds incredible, well done! I could possibly walk a km in that time…
Just Tintin - Sounds like a great long weekend, you say coaching so its good that you got to do your own thing too.
Hokkyokusei - Budapest, that’s a fair way to go for a marathon, good luck!
Dandan - stop being lazy and do something
Afternoon FitClubbers!
I cannot believe it has been 40 weeks since the 500th FitClub, I suddenly wonder what I have been doing with my time! although I have been on a training plan for that whole time, I don’t feel 40 weeks worth of effort fitter if you know what I mean? I guess it’s a slow steady process that gets us safely where we need to be without any injuries…
How have things changed for you in the last 9 months or so?
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=667616
Last Weeks Posters:
The Fasting - I saw that thread that you started, it did seem to have a fair bit of cynicism in it, hope you gleaned some good advice from it somewhere, you certainly can’t go wrong by working on footwork.
Tyler - is a soft-touch 7c in Siurana if you were interested (but also very good, worth climbing at any grade)
AJM - Well done on King of Drunks, and all the other stuff too! Good that you managed to balance a family holiday with a climbing holiday
Biscuit - Beer and chips, the new revolutionary fat loss diet?! St Bees sounds great
AlanLittle - I’m not sure about the clip skipping but maybe boulder 4x4’s on steep to build that PE? I find with more power comes significant confidence…
Hms - Ah, indoor grading, don’t get me started. There seems to be a blanket refusal to listen to feedback from some walls.
Planetmarshall - I thought the point of trad was that it took forever to do routes, it’s just climbing with extra faff, right? :P *hides behind something sturdy*
Ally Smith - Good job crossing your fingers for dry weather! Are you going to be battling seepage for a while again now? I assume its as wet up north as it is down south?
The sheep - 16minute km sounds incredible, well done! I could possibly walk a km in that time…
Just Tintin - Sounds like a great long weekend, you say coaching so its good that you got to do your own thing too.
Hokkyokusei - Budapest, that’s a fair way to go for a marathon, good luck!
Dandan - stop being lazy and do something
In reply to Dandan:
This week hasn't gone to plan......
M: Rest
T: Kilnsey after work, people on Myra so dogged up Dominatrix twice (didn't mange crux either time). Jumped on Myra at end of evening and surprised myself by getting through crux, new high point.
W: Rest
T: Kilnsey after work, got to my high point on Myra first go after putting clips in but after that diminishing returns. Linked from crux to top.
F: Rest
S: back at Kilnset 336 hours after leaving, too soon. Felt wrecked, got on Le Lapin. Not one for a warm humid day but even so no useable holds for me. One TR go on Stumped, hard 7b at least.
S: More decorating.
Poor week in some ways but nice to have done enough climbing to have felt battered at end of week, first time for a long time. Also think decorating has come to an end. This week I'll try to get Myra ticked and do some running although I'm away Fri and Sat.
> Tyler - is a soft-touch 7c in Siurana if you were interested (but also very good, worth climbing at any grade
Dan, I'm utterly shameless when it comes to soft touches so I'd be delighted to hear of any at any grade, anywhere!This week hasn't gone to plan......
M: Rest
T: Kilnsey after work, people on Myra so dogged up Dominatrix twice (didn't mange crux either time). Jumped on Myra at end of evening and surprised myself by getting through crux, new high point.
W: Rest
T: Kilnsey after work, got to my high point on Myra first go after putting clips in but after that diminishing returns. Linked from crux to top.
F: Rest
S: back at Kilnset 336 hours after leaving, too soon. Felt wrecked, got on Le Lapin. Not one for a warm humid day but even so no useable holds for me. One TR go on Stumped, hard 7b at least.
S: More decorating.
Poor week in some ways but nice to have done enough climbing to have felt battered at end of week, first time for a long time. Also think decorating has come to an end. This week I'll try to get Myra ticked and do some running although I'm away Fri and Sat.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Weather crapped out this weekend which was a shame. Feeling a bit despondent.
M - cycle commute. Yoga, core, my favourite.
T - cycle commute. FB session - warm up, then 10/3/4/3 on 35degree slopers with a rather large assist x 6; 1 arm 7 sec hangs on slots with 5 kg assist (I did this as repeaters which wasn't what I was supposed to do I subsequently found); 7/3/6/1 on deep slots x 10.
W - cycle commute. Lots of rehab type stuff.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening. Circuit and easy quick-fire boulders to warm up. Got FAR too warm, then failed to make any progress on any of the 6a+ to 6c set (had already cherry picked the easier ones previously). 1min on/1min off lattice x 10 to finish.
F - 2 mile urban walking. Same FB session as Tuesday but not doing repeaters of the 1 arm hangs.
S - delivering D2 to friends for a holiday. 3 mile brisk walk in evening.
S - Piddled down so outdoor sessions got canned. Redpoint with D1, getting depressed. Failed to get above 2/3rds height on a nails '7a'. Good goes on 2 other routes which were around 7a/+ but no cigar on either. Lots of other routes. Everything was onsight and everything felt hard
Thanks Dan. Weather crapped out this weekend which was a shame. Feeling a bit despondent.
M - cycle commute. Yoga, core, my favourite.
T - cycle commute. FB session - warm up, then 10/3/4/3 on 35degree slopers with a rather large assist x 6; 1 arm 7 sec hangs on slots with 5 kg assist (I did this as repeaters which wasn't what I was supposed to do I subsequently found); 7/3/6/1 on deep slots x 10.
W - cycle commute. Lots of rehab type stuff.
T - cycle commute. TCA in evening. Circuit and easy quick-fire boulders to warm up. Got FAR too warm, then failed to make any progress on any of the 6a+ to 6c set (had already cherry picked the easier ones previously). 1min on/1min off lattice x 10 to finish.
F - 2 mile urban walking. Same FB session as Tuesday but not doing repeaters of the 1 arm hangs.
S - delivering D2 to friends for a holiday. 3 mile brisk walk in evening.
S - Piddled down so outdoor sessions got canned. Redpoint with D1, getting depressed. Failed to get above 2/3rds height on a nails '7a'. Good goes on 2 other routes which were around 7a/+ but no cigar on either. Lots of other routes. Everything was onsight and everything felt hard
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
Not too bad a week. A bit overtaken by the aftermath of holiday at the start of the week. Managed a whole bunch of pull-ups and knees to bar exercises one day, Wednesday I think.
Saturday I went to the project, came close to a few things and also put a bit of time-on-the-wall in to start building on fitness again.
Sunday I got up super early (parked for the crag by 6am stylee) to go to Portland. The plan was to catch the spring high tide just after 7 and use that to get on some of the dws. It fitted well with needing to be back by 1130 too.
However it wasn't to be - a bit too much swell running. So we decamped to the cuttings boulder field instead. Had a good session down on the tank boulder. Repeated a number of the multistar things I had done before, and then tried Virgin Albino (f7A). There's a video here https://afterthesend.com/2017/06/02/the-cuttings-boulderfield/ - my beta is similar but different getting the lip pockets. I fell off the last move (the move with the left onto a good edge from the high left foot) about 3 times. Good problem and should go.
Then I took miniAJM swimming and went to the pub to celebrate 6 months of not having broken him yet. Currently knackered, not so much from the early start but from poor sleep prior to it.
Potentially another good week coming up if plans come together. Psyched. Then after that I take over some of the parenting duties for a few months which is kind of exciting and kind of scary
Cheers Dan.
Not too bad a week. A bit overtaken by the aftermath of holiday at the start of the week. Managed a whole bunch of pull-ups and knees to bar exercises one day, Wednesday I think.
Saturday I went to the project, came close to a few things and also put a bit of time-on-the-wall in to start building on fitness again.
Sunday I got up super early (parked for the crag by 6am stylee) to go to Portland. The plan was to catch the spring high tide just after 7 and use that to get on some of the dws. It fitted well with needing to be back by 1130 too.
However it wasn't to be - a bit too much swell running. So we decamped to the cuttings boulder field instead. Had a good session down on the tank boulder. Repeated a number of the multistar things I had done before, and then tried Virgin Albino (f7A). There's a video here https://afterthesend.com/2017/06/02/the-cuttings-boulderfield/ - my beta is similar but different getting the lip pockets. I fell off the last move (the move with the left onto a good edge from the high left foot) about 3 times. Good problem and should go.
Then I took miniAJM swimming and went to the pub to celebrate 6 months of not having broken him yet. Currently knackered, not so much from the early start but from poor sleep prior to it.
Potentially another good week coming up if plans come together. Psyched. Then after that I take over some of the parenting duties for a few months which is kind of exciting and kind of scary
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. The fat loss plan seems to revolve more around noting everything that goes in your tummy. Beer and chips then feel like a treat, like they should. Been away from the scales this week and haven't been on fitness pal but I know what most things I eat add up to now so shouldn't have done any harm. Had a new low reading during the week, but not enough data to make a decent average.
Highlight of this last week was climbing Boadicea (E2 5c) 37m of peg scarred finger crack. Despite our cleaning attempts it was far from pristine after a few years of the quarry being closed to climbing. Needs more traffic (this is a slight understatement, if i'd seen it in that state normally i'd have walked past it but I was a bit invested in it after cleaning the top half. It should at least be able to dry out now though.) Mandarin (E2 5c) was also cleaned by another pair that day and is supposed to be even better than Boadicea so well psyched to get back and do that too.
I had a quick evening hit to Millers Dale Cave on Monday eve. When I say quick it took me ages to get there, then I discovered it was shit and left quite quickly. What is it with Peak limestone? Grim.
The rest of my time has been taken up with my new van. I've managed to build a bed/storage unit, table/cupboard and a cot bed this weekend. Off to Scotland with 2 kids and 2 dogs for a week tomorrow. It's set up for me really and without excessive numbers of dogs and kids will be a lovely roomy van for trips away. I've spent a couple of hundred quid on wood and tools and learned a lot for when I've got a proper job and can get a proper van (I want this one to last me through uni) and i'll spend weeks doing a proper conversion. Over Winter i'll sort this one out for changing it to a camper with DVLA.
Cheers Dan. The fat loss plan seems to revolve more around noting everything that goes in your tummy. Beer and chips then feel like a treat, like they should. Been away from the scales this week and haven't been on fitness pal but I know what most things I eat add up to now so shouldn't have done any harm. Had a new low reading during the week, but not enough data to make a decent average.
Highlight of this last week was climbing Boadicea (E2 5c) 37m of peg scarred finger crack. Despite our cleaning attempts it was far from pristine after a few years of the quarry being closed to climbing. Needs more traffic (this is a slight understatement, if i'd seen it in that state normally i'd have walked past it but I was a bit invested in it after cleaning the top half. It should at least be able to dry out now though.) Mandarin (E2 5c) was also cleaned by another pair that day and is supposed to be even better than Boadicea so well psyched to get back and do that too.
I had a quick evening hit to Millers Dale Cave on Monday eve. When I say quick it took me ages to get there, then I discovered it was shit and left quite quickly. What is it with Peak limestone? Grim.
The rest of my time has been taken up with my new van. I've managed to build a bed/storage unit, table/cupboard and a cot bed this weekend. Off to Scotland with 2 kids and 2 dogs for a week tomorrow. It's set up for me really and without excessive numbers of dogs and kids will be a lovely roomy van for trips away. I've spent a couple of hundred quid on wood and tools and learned a lot for when I've got a proper job and can get a proper van (I want this one to last me through uni) and i'll spend weeks doing a proper conversion. Over Winter i'll sort this one out for changing it to a camper with DVLA.
Post edited at 21:56
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Dan - I'm back in from this week if that's okay?
Just back from 5 weeks in Switzerland and finally on top of the back injuries from last years crash, which have meant I've only managed a single 6a+ lead to my name since. Climbed over 2000m of granite and a few pitches of limestone with just normal aches from recovery. Super happy! I went with the modest goal of perhaps leading 6b for the first time in a over a year (been stuck on that grade for four years).
Managed to lead flash 6a,6a+ and 6b and 6b+ second go. Pottered up Motorhead in Eldorado and never felt like I was about fall off and had plenty of oomph in hand. With the bust up wrist I have, this is a total anti-style for me but blimey, the left side obliques ached for a day or two. Wandered up some other classic multipitch like Fairhands and finally feel confident in my ability at laybacking and jamming on granite.
So the goal for next summer is Salbit West Ridge. No leading, I'm just too slow at working out different beta for my wrist and big, nasty alpine multipitch is no place to be going slow. Meanwhile, get back on a couple of 7a projects at WCJ and get my finger strength back to were it was two years ago.
Obviously have to include a big cardio push for a 32 pitch climb and I need to really consider if I want to rejoin a climbing gym. I hate rope climbing indoors so much and the boulder area at Pinnacle is not very big - I have access to Paul's home board and I have plenty of free time to get outdoors. I had to leave all my climbing gear in Swizzy when I scrapped the van, the boulder pads will be taken to Albarracin in Oct and left there for me but as it stand, all I have here are 11 quickdraws, so I think lots of soloing big Welsh multipitch will have to be on the agenda.
It'll all work out!
Morning Dan - I'm back in from this week if that's okay?
Just back from 5 weeks in Switzerland and finally on top of the back injuries from last years crash, which have meant I've only managed a single 6a+ lead to my name since. Climbed over 2000m of granite and a few pitches of limestone with just normal aches from recovery. Super happy! I went with the modest goal of perhaps leading 6b for the first time in a over a year (been stuck on that grade for four years).
Managed to lead flash 6a,6a+ and 6b and 6b+ second go. Pottered up Motorhead in Eldorado and never felt like I was about fall off and had plenty of oomph in hand. With the bust up wrist I have, this is a total anti-style for me but blimey, the left side obliques ached for a day or two. Wandered up some other classic multipitch like Fairhands and finally feel confident in my ability at laybacking and jamming on granite.
So the goal for next summer is Salbit West Ridge. No leading, I'm just too slow at working out different beta for my wrist and big, nasty alpine multipitch is no place to be going slow. Meanwhile, get back on a couple of 7a projects at WCJ and get my finger strength back to were it was two years ago.
Obviously have to include a big cardio push for a 32 pitch climb and I need to really consider if I want to rejoin a climbing gym. I hate rope climbing indoors so much and the boulder area at Pinnacle is not very big - I have access to Paul's home board and I have plenty of free time to get outdoors. I had to leave all my climbing gear in Swizzy when I scrapped the van, the boulder pads will be taken to Albarracin in Oct and left there for me but as it stand, all I have here are 11 quickdraws, so I think lots of soloing big Welsh multipitch will have to be on the agenda.
It'll all work out!
5
In reply to Dandan:
Today is a triple espresso kinda morning - my legs feel thoroughly broken!
The cause? 200+ miles in the last 4 days biking from Newcastle to Edinburgh with my fine lady.
Earlier in the week I had a breakthrough session on the project with what started to feel like RP fluency and a big link on the top section; hopefully more to come...
Week 30
M - Kilnsey after work. Dogged to warm-up/dry pocket. RP#1 7b start felt pi$$. Snapped thumb catch on hold you start crux from; fell here. RP#2 same move. RP#3 faded & grabbed the draw. Climbed into Freakshow and on to FS crux. Sat here, cleaned holds then went to the top in a oner (8a/+ link at the end of the day). Top rope lap of the 7b to warm-down.
T - Nowt - Travel clinic. Got jabbed full of dead virus and felt grotty. Poor night’s sleep.
W - Nowt - travel
T - 52 miles biking; Newcastle-upon-Tyne to Alnmouth https://www.strava.com/activities/1093054574
F - 62 miles biking; Alnmouth to Horncliffe https://www.strava.com/activities/1094649820
S - 56 miles biking; Horncliffe to Innerleithen https://www.strava.com/activities/1096326813
S - 38 miles biking; Innerleithen to Edinburgh https://www.strava.com/activities/1097592729 (and some extra miles pootling around Edinburgh and getting home from the station)
Today is a triple espresso kinda morning - my legs feel thoroughly broken!
The cause? 200+ miles in the last 4 days biking from Newcastle to Edinburgh with my fine lady.
Earlier in the week I had a breakthrough session on the project with what started to feel like RP fluency and a big link on the top section; hopefully more to come...
Week 30
M - Kilnsey after work. Dogged to warm-up/dry pocket. RP#1 7b start felt pi$$. Snapped thumb catch on hold you start crux from; fell here. RP#2 same move. RP#3 faded & grabbed the draw. Climbed into Freakshow and on to FS crux. Sat here, cleaned holds then went to the top in a oner (8a/+ link at the end of the day). Top rope lap of the 7b to warm-down.
T - Nowt - Travel clinic. Got jabbed full of dead virus and felt grotty. Poor night’s sleep.
W - Nowt - travel
T - 52 miles biking; Newcastle-upon-Tyne to Alnmouth https://www.strava.com/activities/1093054574
F - 62 miles biking; Alnmouth to Horncliffe https://www.strava.com/activities/1094649820
S - 56 miles biking; Horncliffe to Innerleithen https://www.strava.com/activities/1096326813
S - 38 miles biking; Innerleithen to Edinburgh https://www.strava.com/activities/1097592729 (and some extra miles pootling around Edinburgh and getting home from the station)
2
In reply to mrchewy:
If you're down visiting the coast any time soon I've got a bunch of spare gear you can borrow - between us we probably own one large and one small trad rack and that's got to be enough for anyone!
If you're down visiting the coast any time soon I've got a bunch of spare gear you can borrow - between us we probably own one large and one small trad rack and that's got to be enough for anyone!
2
In reply to Dandan:
Sorry, we were being coached by Caff rather than me coaching. Very useful, and think it did wonders for Ben's confidence on trad again. What I learnt was that I am definitely capable of British 6a technical so should be able to lead E3/E4 depending on style, so need to start pushing myself harder and being prepared to redpoint trad routes instead of just onsighting E2. I guess it's opened my eyes that once you go beyond tech 5b/5c you don't have to work your way through the Es sequentially but can start picking off things with varying boldness and character as suits. That's my working thesis for now. Unfortunately can't test the epiphany immediately as I have a couple of weekends in France ahead which will interrupt my trad streak, but end of August/September I am now planning to try harder routes. I think the reason for coming to this conclusion so slowly is that I've never really had the opportunity to second harder than I lead so it's all been in this mystical trad zone I didn't think I could access...
M -fingerboard
T - rest
W - snuck in a couple of pitches on High Tor for BMC guidebook photo purposes. Led p2 Delicatessen (E2 5c) and seconded p2 Debauchery (E1 5b) in between rain showers. Still need to do p1 of both!
T - Brookes lead bimble after re-set. Lots of potentially onsightable 7s. Core.
F - Set a few problems at Brookes in the morning. Did comp set at Climbing Unit in the evening. Onsighted first 20 so guessing it's an easier set than normal...
S - rainy but snuck up Original Route to have a look at gear for Tales of Yankee Power (E5 6a) on ab. Definitely my kind of thing (tiny pockets, balancy, lock offs, steepish). Have ideas for the gear which looks pretty solid, if spaced, so I guess I need to TR it next. The falls look okay - big but towards the top of the headwall.
S - Ben did the Wildcat 5k river swim in the morning, then it was a bit hit and miss on rain so went to Climbing Unit and did a forced boulder mileage session slightly interrupted by some wanker spouting lank beta (I'm 5'7 but -3 ape) at me then complaining that I was cheating because I could crimp small things. Aaaaaaaaargh. Went to watch Dunkirk - really impressive.
Ally Smith - saw you had ToYP logged. Any thoughts?
Sorry, we were being coached by Caff rather than me coaching. Very useful, and think it did wonders for Ben's confidence on trad again. What I learnt was that I am definitely capable of British 6a technical so should be able to lead E3/E4 depending on style, so need to start pushing myself harder and being prepared to redpoint trad routes instead of just onsighting E2. I guess it's opened my eyes that once you go beyond tech 5b/5c you don't have to work your way through the Es sequentially but can start picking off things with varying boldness and character as suits. That's my working thesis for now. Unfortunately can't test the epiphany immediately as I have a couple of weekends in France ahead which will interrupt my trad streak, but end of August/September I am now planning to try harder routes. I think the reason for coming to this conclusion so slowly is that I've never really had the opportunity to second harder than I lead so it's all been in this mystical trad zone I didn't think I could access...
M -fingerboard
T - rest
W - snuck in a couple of pitches on High Tor for BMC guidebook photo purposes. Led p2 Delicatessen (E2 5c) and seconded p2 Debauchery (E1 5b) in between rain showers. Still need to do p1 of both!
T - Brookes lead bimble after re-set. Lots of potentially onsightable 7s. Core.
F - Set a few problems at Brookes in the morning. Did comp set at Climbing Unit in the evening. Onsighted first 20 so guessing it's an easier set than normal...
S - rainy but snuck up Original Route to have a look at gear for Tales of Yankee Power (E5 6a) on ab. Definitely my kind of thing (tiny pockets, balancy, lock offs, steepish). Have ideas for the gear which looks pretty solid, if spaced, so I guess I need to TR it next. The falls look okay - big but towards the top of the headwall.
S - Ben did the Wildcat 5k river swim in the morning, then it was a bit hit and miss on rain so went to Climbing Unit and did a forced boulder mileage session slightly interrupted by some wanker spouting lank beta (I'm 5'7 but -3 ape) at me then complaining that I was cheating because I could crimp small things. Aaaaaaaaargh. Went to watch Dunkirk - really impressive.
Ally Smith - saw you had ToYP logged. Any thoughts?
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
ToYP is safe as houses; a rare beast that really should be saved for the flash/on-sight, or at the very least least tried ground up?
Without giving too much away; good gear where you leave Original Route, try hard going for the thread (we replaced it in 2011, but it could be newer than that?) more good gear in the break above that and nothing too wiggy before the belay.
ToYP is safe as houses; a rare beast that really should be saved for the flash/on-sight, or at the very least least tried ground up?
Without giving too much away; good gear where you leave Original Route, try hard going for the thread (we replaced it in 2011, but it could be newer than that?) more good gear in the break above that and nothing too wiggy before the belay.
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers Ally. That's pretty much what I thought looking at it, but thought it was too good to be true
Well having abbed it and asked questions about it, the on-sight is off but will still aim to do it in good style in the next couple of months.
Cheers Ally. That's pretty much what I thought looking at it, but thought it was too good to be true
Well having abbed it and asked questions about it, the on-sight is off but will still aim to do it in good style in the next couple of months.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan, Its taken a while to get there but my swimming is going well at the mo. Last week was different to normal as it was the first week of the summer hols so with the kids away with their grandparents the wife and I could train together.
Last week went as follows;
Monday, 1 km lunchtime swim and then out in the evening with the wife and her run club for a nice social 9 km run
Tuesday, 1 km lunchtime swim and a 15km pootle on the bikes in the evening.
Wednesday, 1 km lunchtime swim and then intervals in the evening again with the run club. Like being back in pre season rugby training, brutal!
Thursday, ached like hell, 1 km lunchtime swim. Nice and gentle on my poor legs!
Friday, rest day thankfully. Went and picked the kids up.
Saturday, gentle 5 km recovery run
Sunday, feeling better and with the wife taking the kids away dusted off the road bike. 50 km ride with an average pace of 28.3 km/h. Happy with the speed and the legs felt fine, with the added bonus that it took my year total so far over 2000 km
> The sheep - 16minute km sounds incredible, well done! I could possibly walk a km in that time…
Cheers Dan, Its taken a while to get there but my swimming is going well at the mo. Last week was different to normal as it was the first week of the summer hols so with the kids away with their grandparents the wife and I could train together.
Last week went as follows;
Monday, 1 km lunchtime swim and then out in the evening with the wife and her run club for a nice social 9 km run
Tuesday, 1 km lunchtime swim and a 15km pootle on the bikes in the evening.
Wednesday, 1 km lunchtime swim and then intervals in the evening again with the run club. Like being back in pre season rugby training, brutal!
Thursday, ached like hell, 1 km lunchtime swim. Nice and gentle on my poor legs!
Friday, rest day thankfully. Went and picked the kids up.
Saturday, gentle 5 km recovery run
Sunday, feeling better and with the wife taking the kids away dusted off the road bike. 50 km ride with an average pace of 28.3 km/h. Happy with the speed and the legs felt fine, with the added bonus that it took my year total so far over 2000 km
In reply to Dandan:
This week I did a few bouldering sessions where I mostly did mileage on as many new f5/f5+ at the gym as I could.
Then it was time for a big trip, so we headed to Hægefjell, and did Via Lara (n3+). 10-11 pitches of n3+ (but really it's at least n4-). We were inexperienced and slow, and it ended up being a bit of an epic where we came back the next morning after climbing continuously for 16 hours.
Combination of starting a bit too late due to waiting for the wall go dry out and the route having more pitches than we had been told. I thought with 1 hour per pitch we had enough margin for error but we used more than that.
Lesson 1: Start early or don't start at all.
Lesson 2: Never listen to what you don't need to pitch out from hardcore climbers.
Lesson 3: Never strap your boots outside a backpack, bring a large enough pack to have important things inside it. If you don't want to see them tumbling down a wall for 200 meters.
Lesson 4: Always bring a good climber so he can go up and retrieve your boots the next day when you're too tired to remember your name.
So yeah we had to dig deep and climbed through the (short) night, but it was cool just to know that we can do that and still feel okey by the end. Just very very sleepy.
This week I did a few bouldering sessions where I mostly did mileage on as many new f5/f5+ at the gym as I could.
Then it was time for a big trip, so we headed to Hægefjell, and did Via Lara (n3+). 10-11 pitches of n3+ (but really it's at least n4-). We were inexperienced and slow, and it ended up being a bit of an epic where we came back the next morning after climbing continuously for 16 hours.
Combination of starting a bit too late due to waiting for the wall go dry out and the route having more pitches than we had been told. I thought with 1 hour per pitch we had enough margin for error but we used more than that.
Lesson 1: Start early or don't start at all.
Lesson 2: Never listen to what you don't need to pitch out from hardcore climbers.
Lesson 3: Never strap your boots outside a backpack, bring a large enough pack to have important things inside it. If you don't want to see them tumbling down a wall for 200 meters.
Lesson 4: Always bring a good climber so he can go up and retrieve your boots the next day when you're too tired to remember your name.
So yeah we had to dig deep and climbed through the (short) night, but it was cool just to know that we can do that and still feel okey by the end. Just very very sleepy.
Post edited at 12:18
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Does that mean don't bother looking for gear between Original Route and the thread? Asking for a friend
> ToYP is safe as houses; a rare beast that really should be saved for the flash/on-sight, or at the very least least tried ground up?
> Without giving too much away; good gear where you leave Original Route, try hard going for the thread (we replaced it in 2011, but it could be newer than that?) more good gear in the break above that and nothing too wiggy before the belay.
Does that mean don't bother looking for gear between Original Route and the thread? Asking for a friend
2
In reply to Tyler:
In my view there are cam/nut options in a couple of the flake jugs before then...
In my view there are cam/nut options in a couple of the flake jugs before then...
In reply to mrchewy:
Motörhead & Fair Hands Line? Dream ticks, well done.
I’ll be in .uk in August. Am booked in with Mr Kettle in Kendal on the 10th & 11th, largely on your recommendation, & potentially have a couple of days free either side of that. Would be keen to get on our WCJ project again if you’re free & interested around then – or I could bring a light rack over for a spot of moderate ledge shuffling.
Motörhead & Fair Hands Line? Dream ticks, well done.
> Meanwhile, get back on a couple of 7a projects at WCJ
I’ll be in .uk in August. Am booked in with Mr Kettle in Kendal on the 10th & 11th, largely on your recommendation, & potentially have a couple of days free either side of that. Would be keen to get on our WCJ project again if you’re free & interested around then – or I could bring a light rack over for a spot of moderate ledge shuffling.
1
In reply to Dandan:
STG: book flights for Kalymnos; sort out partners for UK visit in August
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Rest
T: Bike one hour
Moonboard. Back to square one: reduced to limit bouldering single moves on projects I was close to linking in April. Do endurance training, get weak. Do strength training, lose endurance. Progress a logical impossibility.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Moving from aerobic capacity towards more power endurance, so slightly fewer, slightly harder routes - 10 x 6a to 6c. Including two onsights of steep, juggy, long (by wall standards - 17 metres) 6b+'s. Which felt easy. More encouraging than yesterday.
Slightly fewer routes also means a little earlier to bed. Insufficient sleep is one of my big training problems at the moment, I suspect.
T: Rest
F: Bike one hour
S: Stayed at home on a forecast of thunderstorms; awoke after a nice long lie-in to find glorious sunshine and thunderstorms postponed to the evening. Never mind, it's too hot and I need a rest anyway.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Still no thunderstorms, but the some of the most drenching pre-thunderstorm humidity I've ever encountered. Nevertheless managed a decent & enjoyable sessions. couple of easy warm up routes, eight attempts on harder things 6b to 6c+, 20 minutes lattice style suspiciously easy endurance (8 on 2 off x 2) to wind down.
STG: book flights for Kalymnos; sort out partners for UK visit in August
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Rest
T: Bike one hour
Moonboard. Back to square one: reduced to limit bouldering single moves on projects I was close to linking in April. Do endurance training, get weak. Do strength training, lose endurance. Progress a logical impossibility.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Moving from aerobic capacity towards more power endurance, so slightly fewer, slightly harder routes - 10 x 6a to 6c. Including two onsights of steep, juggy, long (by wall standards - 17 metres) 6b+'s. Which felt easy. More encouraging than yesterday.
Slightly fewer routes also means a little earlier to bed. Insufficient sleep is one of my big training problems at the moment, I suspect.
T: Rest
F: Bike one hour
S: Stayed at home on a forecast of thunderstorms; awoke after a nice long lie-in to find glorious sunshine and thunderstorms postponed to the evening. Never mind, it's too hot and I need a rest anyway.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Still no thunderstorms, but the some of the most drenching pre-thunderstorm humidity I've ever encountered. Nevertheless managed a decent & enjoyable sessions. couple of easy warm up routes, eight attempts on harder things 6b to 6c+, 20 minutes lattice style suspiciously easy endurance (8 on 2 off x 2) to wind down.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Hello again folks. Just wanted to share a bit of positive psyche and inspiration from the internet.
Those of you who follow such things might have noticed Ned Feehally flashed an Font 8B+ and Shauna an 8A in Rocklands in the last couple of days. But slightly less in the news than Ned's ascent was that Katy Whittaker did her first 8A out there too.
https://mobile.twitter.com/katy_whittaker1?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%...
I was well impressed by this because of the fact she has had so many injuries in recent years. Yes she has climbed E8 and lots of French 8 sport routes in the past, but she has been injured for ages and according to her blog, only in July 2016, she was struggling to do French 7a, then gave up focusing on climbing for a while. She only started doing some training again a few months ago. It's so impressive that she can come back and within < 6 months be sending her hardest ever problem. That's big inspiration for everyone going through a low patch!
PS Kelvin, nice one on Motorhead - that's a great route. E2 at least of anyone's money.
Hello again folks. Just wanted to share a bit of positive psyche and inspiration from the internet.
Those of you who follow such things might have noticed Ned Feehally flashed an Font 8B+ and Shauna an 8A in Rocklands in the last couple of days. But slightly less in the news than Ned's ascent was that Katy Whittaker did her first 8A out there too.
https://mobile.twitter.com/katy_whittaker1?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%...
I was well impressed by this because of the fact she has had so many injuries in recent years. Yes she has climbed E8 and lots of French 8 sport routes in the past, but she has been injured for ages and according to her blog, only in July 2016, she was struggling to do French 7a, then gave up focusing on climbing for a while. She only started doing some training again a few months ago. It's so impressive that she can come back and within < 6 months be sending her hardest ever problem. That's big inspiration for everyone going through a low patch!
PS Kelvin, nice one on Motorhead - that's a great route. E2 at least of anyone's money.
4
In reply to AlanLittle:
For sure I can do Saturday 12th, the Sunday also and perhaps I could snatch the day before if that helps - I don't have the finger strength yet but I am indeed keen to get on Incapacity. Paul lent me a rope today and I have enough draws and a grigri... leave the trad gear at home! I've not done any trad in two or three years now.
For sure I can do Saturday 12th, the Sunday also and perhaps I could snatch the day before if that helps - I don't have the finger strength yet but I am indeed keen to get on Incapacity. Paul lent me a rope today and I have enough draws and a grigri... leave the trad gear at home! I've not done any trad in two or three years now.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy - I reckon I can manage with them there nuts and cam thingymajiggies but the offer is really appreciated. A friend has offered to pop over to Swizzy with me in his van at the end of September, so I'm pretty sure I can manage to cope with bolts until then.
Cheers
Thanks Andy - I reckon I can manage with them there nuts and cam thingymajiggies but the offer is really appreciated. A friend has offered to pop over to Swizzy with me in his van at the end of September, so I'm pretty sure I can manage to cope with bolts until then.
Cheers
In reply to Dandan:
Good morning!
Interesting question. I was a bit heavier than I am now, but I was doing well with my running, and about to get a 10k PB. However a dip in form wasn't far behind - my asthma tends to kick in at the back end of the year.
Well it's a club trip, so it will be a supportive environment full of like minded idiots
m - 11.5k run followed by a presentation on biomechanics
t - Physio. 7.5k warm up 8x400m intervals, cool down
w - 10k cycling
t - 11k off road run
f - rest
s - too much drinking
s - hangover
Good start to the week, but not a great ending. Worried about my shoulder, doesn't seem to be responding to physio.
STG
Keep my weight down - this isn't working!
MTG
September - Yorkshireman off-road half marathon
October - Budapest marathon
> UKC FitClub Week 540
> Afternoon FitClubbers!
Good morning!
> How have things changed for you in the last 9 months or so?
Interesting question. I was a bit heavier than I am now, but I was doing well with my running, and about to get a 10k PB. However a dip in form wasn't far behind - my asthma tends to kick in at the back end of the year.
> Hokkyokusei - Budapest, that’s a fair way to go for a marathon, good luck!
Well it's a club trip, so it will be a supportive environment full of like minded idiots
m - 11.5k run followed by a presentation on biomechanics
t - Physio. 7.5k warm up 8x400m intervals, cool down
w - 10k cycling
t - 11k off road run
f - rest
s - too much drinking
s - hangover
Good start to the week, but not a great ending. Worried about my shoulder, doesn't seem to be responding to physio.
STG
Keep my weight down - this isn't working!
MTG
September - Yorkshireman off-road half marathon
October - Budapest marathon
In reply to Dandan:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 12lbs
M - T - Rest
W - 60 core movements
T - 5k run
F - S - Rest / Baby prep
Actually did some kind of exercise this week. I'm kinda tempted to drop off fit club totally till I'm doing something regularly again. Just doing the odd bit here and there isn't really in keeping with things.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 12lbs
M - T - Rest
W - 60 core movements
T - 5k run
F - S - Rest / Baby prep
Actually did some kind of exercise this week. I'm kinda tempted to drop off fit club totally till I'm doing something regularly again. Just doing the odd bit here and there isn't really in keeping with things.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, I got halfway through writing this two days ago, lets have another go...
Busy week, but I managed all 12 sessions on the plan!
M: Indoor Boulder; hard problem, 2 reps with 5 second rest, 6 sets. Higher completion rate than expected, must try harder problems.
Circuit combo; 25 move hard circuit, try to onsight medium boulder, 15 moves of circuit. 3 sets. Interesting new session this one.
T: Fingerboard; 5 sec on 5 sec off x6 on AA edge +20kg, 4 reps. 2rm on 40mm edge +50kg, 3 sets
Antagonist shoulder theraband work
W: Indoor Boulder; Hard problem, 7 reps with 2.5min rest. 3 sets on different problem each set.
10 move problem, 4 reps with 20sec rest between, 3 sets. (should have been 4 but was knackered)
T: Indoor routes; 10 min on 10 min off at 6b or lower
Lever lifts and kicks, holding lever progression positions for various lengths of time, antoher cool new session, very intense on the belly.
F: TRX 4 sets of 5 of low row, front fly, reverse fly and typewriters on rings. Holy cow typewriters are tough!
Lower body flexibility; various leg stretches
S: Indoor routes; do a medium boulder 3 times, then 8min on at 6b or lower. 3 sets.
S: Fingerboard; (actually a warmup session but none of my local walls have weights so cant do it before a session) 10 sec deadhangs, 2 reps on AA slot, 5 reps on BM2k lower outer slot (10mm?) +20kg, then 5 pull ups on AA slot
Lever lift and kicks as above.
A pretty intense week and a couple of my fingers feel a little borderline from all the hard boulders. Advice for next week is to lower volume but maintain intensity if the fingers feel iffy. They are fine when climbing, just a little tender afterwards, hopefully manageable with a little bit of common sense.
We went to Craggy Island on Saturday, the first time i've been there in 4 or so years, and I quickly remembered why, their grading is so far out! It was stiff 4 years ago but might be even worse now, I had an argument with a staff member who freely admitted that their grades were stiff, but they weren't interested in doing anything about it. I tried to explain that it's not a good way to start a session when you pick a grade that you expect to be a warm up and end up hanging pumped on the rope on a 6b. He patronisingly suggested I try something easy to warm up and didn't seem willing to believe 6b *is* easy for me. Then he said 'you just need to try a couple and then shift your expectation up or down a bit to get the right level. Sure, or how about you put the right flipping grades on the routes?! The place needs a blanket upgrade of at least one letter grade and some stuff will be stiff even then. There were moves on 6a's that Mrs Dandan couldn't do after multiple attempts, she climbs 7a and works 7b. Ridiculous.
I know indoor grading is tough but when it's that far out consistently, its not hard to bring it at least vaguely into line. Maybe that's why the place was empty on a wet Saturday?
new STG:
* don't agitate fingers, Kaly is 3 weeks away
* get on Saskatchedoodoo... this weekend
MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back on track
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 2/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
Thanks me, I got halfway through writing this two days ago, lets have another go...
Busy week, but I managed all 12 sessions on the plan!
M: Indoor Boulder; hard problem, 2 reps with 5 second rest, 6 sets. Higher completion rate than expected, must try harder problems.
Circuit combo; 25 move hard circuit, try to onsight medium boulder, 15 moves of circuit. 3 sets. Interesting new session this one.
T: Fingerboard; 5 sec on 5 sec off x6 on AA edge +20kg, 4 reps. 2rm on 40mm edge +50kg, 3 sets
Antagonist shoulder theraband work
W: Indoor Boulder; Hard problem, 7 reps with 2.5min rest. 3 sets on different problem each set.
10 move problem, 4 reps with 20sec rest between, 3 sets. (should have been 4 but was knackered)
T: Indoor routes; 10 min on 10 min off at 6b or lower
Lever lifts and kicks, holding lever progression positions for various lengths of time, antoher cool new session, very intense on the belly.
F: TRX 4 sets of 5 of low row, front fly, reverse fly and typewriters on rings. Holy cow typewriters are tough!
Lower body flexibility; various leg stretches
S: Indoor routes; do a medium boulder 3 times, then 8min on at 6b or lower. 3 sets.
S: Fingerboard; (actually a warmup session but none of my local walls have weights so cant do it before a session) 10 sec deadhangs, 2 reps on AA slot, 5 reps on BM2k lower outer slot (10mm?) +20kg, then 5 pull ups on AA slot
Lever lift and kicks as above.
A pretty intense week and a couple of my fingers feel a little borderline from all the hard boulders. Advice for next week is to lower volume but maintain intensity if the fingers feel iffy. They are fine when climbing, just a little tender afterwards, hopefully manageable with a little bit of common sense.
We went to Craggy Island on Saturday, the first time i've been there in 4 or so years, and I quickly remembered why, their grading is so far out! It was stiff 4 years ago but might be even worse now, I had an argument with a staff member who freely admitted that their grades were stiff, but they weren't interested in doing anything about it. I tried to explain that it's not a good way to start a session when you pick a grade that you expect to be a warm up and end up hanging pumped on the rope on a 6b. He patronisingly suggested I try something easy to warm up and didn't seem willing to believe 6b *is* easy for me. Then he said 'you just need to try a couple and then shift your expectation up or down a bit to get the right level. Sure, or how about you put the right flipping grades on the routes?! The place needs a blanket upgrade of at least one letter grade and some stuff will be stiff even then. There were moves on 6a's that Mrs Dandan couldn't do after multiple attempts, she climbs 7a and works 7b. Ridiculous.
I know indoor grading is tough but when it's that far out consistently, its not hard to bring it at least vaguely into line. Maybe that's why the place was empty on a wet Saturday?
new STG:
* don't agitate fingers, Kaly is 3 weeks away
* get on Saskatchedoodoo... this weekend
MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger back on track
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - TICK
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)
* Monoculture (7c+)
LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 2/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
In reply to Dandan:
Hence the addition of bouldering to my workouts, especially in the evenings. I can easily do half a dozen problems in the time it takes to gear up...
Last week's goals -
* 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting)
* Increase FB weight by 4kg, drop reps to 4.
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 Max effort bouldering session
* 1 circuits bouldering session
Weather was fine but still didn't manage 4 HVS leads. Will try again this week. Doing the BM 5a workout now with 5 reps at -18kg, managed a long trail run and a good circuit at Higgar Tor (including a V2, Not like Pommel (f5) and the harrowing The Big Slab (f4+))
Mon - Trail Run. 11km/426m
Tue - Trad at Roaches Lower Tier. Seconded Valkyrie (VS 4c)
Wed - Fingerboard. BM5a 4 reps@ -18kg
Thu - Physio
Fri - Rest
Sat - Trad at Stanage North
Sun - A good session at Awesome Walls, Sheffield.
STG
Next week's goals -
* 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting)
* Increase FB weight to -14kg, 4 reps per hang
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 Max effort bouldering session
* 1 circuits bouldering session
MTG
OMM End October
Left shoulder rehab.
Kalymnos in September
Magma (6b+)
Something in the Grande Grotta Area,
Elefantenhimmel (7a) maybe.
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
> Planetmarshall - I thought the point of trad was that it took forever to do routes, it’s just climbing with extra faff, right? :P *hides behind something sturdy*
Hence the addition of bouldering to my workouts, especially in the evenings. I can easily do half a dozen problems in the time it takes to gear up...
Last week's goals -
* 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting)
* Increase FB weight by 4kg, drop reps to 4.
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 Max effort bouldering session
* 1 circuits bouldering session
Weather was fine but still didn't manage 4 HVS leads. Will try again this week. Doing the BM 5a workout now with 5 reps at -18kg, managed a long trail run and a good circuit at Higgar Tor (including a V2, Not like Pommel (f5) and the harrowing The Big Slab (f4+))
Mon - Trail Run. 11km/426m
Tue - Trad at Roaches Lower Tier. Seconded Valkyrie (VS 4c)
Wed - Fingerboard. BM5a 4 reps@ -18kg
Thu - Physio
Fri - Rest
Sat - Trad at Stanage North
Sun - A good session at Awesome Walls, Sheffield.
STG
Next week's goals -
* 4 leads at HVS or above (weather permitting)
* Increase FB weight to -14kg, 4 reps per hang
* 2 trail runs, long one at the weekend.
* 1 Max effort bouldering session
* 1 circuits bouldering session
MTG
OMM End October
Left shoulder rehab.
Kalymnos in September
Magma (6b+)
Something in the Grande Grotta Area,
Elefantenhimmel (7a) maybe.
British Trad Routes:
The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone
Bouldering
Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)
LTG
The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) Solo (Spring 2018)
> Scottish Winter 2017/18
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
Post edited at 13:48
In reply to Dandan:
Have fun in Kaly; some very strong looking FB scores and varied sessions - the numbers support some big grades - i hope you crush!
Indoor grading is a constant pain in the butt - here's an example of the silliness at Stockport. Ted climbed all winter on the routes and got up to the heady heights of 7c+ on the concave wall. That spring he did Kaabah is Futile (8c+) The training route was probably f8b?
The really annoying thing is that it swings the opposite way on the bouldering. Yesterday, after a brief warm-up I started working through some of the "psyche" comp problems and lo and behold flashed a bunch of "v8+" problems, which would probably be in the v4 circuit at the Depot. Indeed, most of the v6-7 set were harder than the "v8+".
We all know that grading isn't an exact science, but the experience of hms, Dan and myself have had recently points the finger at walls not listening to the clientele and adjusting grades to be closer representation of their outdoor equivalents (for the record, i've only ever flashed a couple of outdoor 7B/v8 when i've been going super strongly, outdoor 7A/v6 is my normal max)
p.s. I should have stopped sooner yesterday, as my wrist has been grumbling heavily for 24 hours and typing at work isn't helping
Have fun in Kaly; some very strong looking FB scores and varied sessions - the numbers support some big grades - i hope you crush!
Indoor grading is a constant pain in the butt - here's an example of the silliness at Stockport. Ted climbed all winter on the routes and got up to the heady heights of 7c+ on the concave wall. That spring he did Kaabah is Futile (8c+) The training route was probably f8b?
The really annoying thing is that it swings the opposite way on the bouldering. Yesterday, after a brief warm-up I started working through some of the "psyche" comp problems and lo and behold flashed a bunch of "v8+" problems, which would probably be in the v4 circuit at the Depot. Indeed, most of the v6-7 set were harder than the "v8+".
We all know that grading isn't an exact science, but the experience of hms, Dan and myself have had recently points the finger at walls not listening to the clientele and adjusting grades to be closer representation of their outdoor equivalents (for the record, i've only ever flashed a couple of outdoor 7B/v8 when i've been going super strongly, outdoor 7A/v6 is my normal max)
p.s. I should have stopped sooner yesterday, as my wrist has been grumbling heavily for 24 hours and typing at work isn't helping
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
Personal view is that expecting indoor grades to match outdoor grades is asking a bit much, firstly because they inevitably have to set and grade things fairly quickly, and secondly because indoor moves are inherently more morpho than the vast majority of outdoor moves where you have multiple sequence options.
However we should expect indoor grades at a particular wall to at least be reasonably self consistent with one another, and I agree they often aren't.
Personal view is that expecting indoor grades to match outdoor grades is asking a bit much, firstly because they inevitably have to set and grade things fairly quickly, and secondly because indoor moves are inherently more morpho than the vast majority of outdoor moves where you have multiple sequence options.
However we should expect indoor grades at a particular wall to at least be reasonably self consistent with one another, and I agree they often aren't.
2
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